![](https://crew.org.nz/forum/uploads/set_resources_2/84c1e40ea0e759e3f1505eb1788ddf3c_pattern.png)
Frank
Members-
Content Count
659 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
13
Content Type
Profiles
Media Demo
Forums
Gallery
Calendar
Store
Everything posted by Frank
-
There is a sistership to Titus Canby at Shelly Park, called Isapingo, the owner is looking to get a bigger boat.
-
I haven't been to a boat show for years as they are just a massive yawn with Powerboats predominating and maybe a few production yachts. I only missed this Wooden boat show as I was sailing but I hope there is another !
-
If the Bronze rods are Aluminium Bronze then they should be as good as new , probably true for Phosphor Bronze as well, also I have heard of Hard Drawn Copper being used occasionally . For SS bolts I would want to see the condition at the hull/keel junction to ensure there is no crevice corrosion or pitting. The installation sounds like its substantially over engineered which was often the case for boats of that era, a good thing of course
-
Its not a perfect system but I'm told by my American friends the alternatives are far worse, ie you have a very litigious society and insurance gets way more expensive.
-
This whole thing about Space/time being warped by gravity completely does my head in, I accept it but I simply cant visualise or grasp it. Quote from the interweb " Time measures speed, while gravity does all the work. When a clock is in a stronger field of gravity, the atoms in the clock feel the pressure of more mass. The force of gravity slows down the frequency of atoms, a clock slows down, and the time on a clock has time dilation.
-
Talk to Kerry at the Marina shop (Insurance broker) kerry@themarinashop.com
-
LOL, I had exactly that block/System on the Carpenter and had the same failure after 20+ years of solid service. I repaired it by drilling out the pins, making a new strap and bolting it back together, looked a bit agricultural but gave me another five years. Now it has been replaced with near new system from a Young 88, All that said I recommend you get new blocks, forget about welding unless you can put an external doubler on it.
-
Yes it certainly got my attention, I worked for Air NZ engineering for many years and I recall that a crash axe was always strapped to the cockpit bulkhead as mandatory emergency equipment. I have sometimes pondered carrying one in the lazarette, probably a standard sharp wood axe would do and could be used to smash the perspex of any internally secured hatch. I recall the author of the article commented on how tough the GRP was but adrenaline kept him going and probably provided freakish strength. Matt of IT is right its a good idea to have a think about the emergency procedures for a fire.
-
I recall in the 80,s reading of a fire in a GRP yacht where the children of the owner were sleeping in the quarter berth. Attempting to rescue them from outside the companion way he was defeated by dense smoke. Entering via the fwd hatch he could not traverse the saloon due to the vinyl lining on the roof burning and raining molten balls of fire, (this being the cause of the dense smoke). With the children now screaming he exited and smashed through the deck above the Q berth with a crash axe and then extracted them from above. Both survived but had to be hospitalised due to smoke damage to t
-
That's what we did, we installed the copper gas line to keep the cost down, the Gas fitter did the final hookup and test etc.
-
For those pondering a LiFEpo retrofit the battery, 3 KW Inverter, DC to DC charger, Solar Controller, and associated components are under the fwd end of the RH bunk in the photo. The space it occupies is modest and would easily be accommodated In a small yacht. The DC to DC charger is on the Bunk Front but has yet to Kick in (18 months ) as solar has been sufficient (440W of Solar on the roof)
-
Here is a Photo of the Inverter/Battery Compartment in the land Yacht, the cable run from the Battery to the Inverter would be approx 1M , the cable outer Dia is 16mm and I'm guessing the thickness of the insulation is 1.5 mm ? giving a core dia of 13mm ? If so the cross section is 132 mm Sq. For the curious I have included a photo of the El- Cheapo Breville Induction plate we use, it was $80 at Noel Leemings from Memory. Our meals on the H20 Yacht and the land Yacht tend to be simple so we only ever need one burner/plate as neither of us are particularly fond of cooking.
-
On your typical radar arch on say a 40 ft offshore cruising yacht you would have near enough real estate for 400W , even if a bit shy,wing panels could be added. Lithium batteries have substantially lower internal resistance so charge quite a bit quicker than AGM
-
Off the top of my head I cant say as that work was done by Half Moon Bay Electrical , they also did the AC side and organized the Inspector for the compliance sign off.. I will check it out later and report back
-
Foot Note A while back we calibrated the system monitor and needed to take the battery down to about 10% . From memory we had to boil 36 jugs of water (1L) together with a heat gun on low power and all the lights one etc it took well over an hour as I recall and the solar was disconnected. Day to day we have never sucked it below 75% but that might change when we are in the SI in Autumn.
-
On our Campervan the specs are 330 Ah Lifepo Battery, 13 V 3KW Inverter 440 W Solar We run a 2100W Plug in Induction plate 800W Kettle 800W Microwave Isotherm 12 V fridge (has a small freezer compartment) Rooftop vent fan runs 24/7 Lighting, stereo etc etc This system barely breaks a sweat and we will be adding a dedicated freezer later. So far the DC to DC charger has never kicked in ie Solar has been sufficient. Caveat, we don't boil a kettle or use the microwave while cooking on the induction hob. We have used the kettle and MW s
-
It hasn't changed at all, lack of road access is the main reason and long may it remain so
-
Recycled Mahogany, pelmets are a good idea, might have to steal that one !
-
What My Son did on the weekend, He made a set of Lumineers for the Saloon Cabin, did a nice job and the work a treat
-
Made a boat, this was my father's first and only keelboat, he loved sailing but mum didn't like anything that heeled over so he sold it and built a ferro launch which was pig heavy and did not really heel much, but she still refused to go on it anyway. Its all done from memory and an old photo but I'm fairly certain it was a 1916 Seabird 26 hull with modified rig and cabin. The second photo is the Shelly park cruising club members greasing the timber planks for a haul out session in the early 60,s lard from the freezing works was used as grease, yes rats were a problem at the club and s
-
Mate those are Gold ! we have the Seven Seas Marine version jetted for Methylated spirits its 50 years old and still going strong. We buy fuel from TMK in 20L containers without the dye which otherwise clogs the jets. With Alcohol there is no smell but the Kero burns much hotter , only sticking with Meths because my wife is prone to seasickness and doesn't like the kero smell. Spares can be purchased here https://www.caravancamping.co.nz/shop/specialist-stoves/stove-parts/stove-parts-general/ Meths here https://www.tmkpackers.co.nz/products/
-
I saw somewhere that folks are setting up "Starlink for RV" (Starlink Roam) on their boat it is OK for coastal with a range of 30 NM ?? Others on here with more knowledge will correct/confirm.
-
Cant see a problem with it, pick your weather window carefully or use a weather routing meteorologist like Bruce Buckley etc
-
What he said, or stacksome SS washers if possible.
-
Like you I tried mainsail battens, they were hopelessly floppy so I switched to PVC conduit which did the job nicely but from memory it needed to be 25 or 30 mm dia. They were a PITA to stow so after a few seasons I went back to a simple battenless tent, easy to fold and stow.