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Frank

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Everything posted by Frank

  1. All good in my corner of Cocklebay, but possibly some slips on the local cliff edge properties, will take a stroll when the suns out and see. Last time we had a big wet like this there were a handful that lost some of the front lawn. 50 properties red stickered and 141 yellow stickered is surreal and I'm guessing the bulk of those red stickered will result in a total wipeout of the properties value unless remedial Geo engineering can recover and stabilise the land, its a sad situation.
  2. I suspect the contact area in that puzzle joint would easily match that of an 8:1 scarph and possibly even exceed it.
  3. I suspect the contact area in that puzzle joint would easily match that of an 8:1 scarph and possibly even exceed it.
  4. If you never want to replace it again fabricate it in monel.
  5. On my MD7 i purchased cast SS plumbing fittings from anzor in east tamaki, screwed them together and had a fab shop do the welding, I recycled the Plain steel four bolt flange by welding it to the SS fittings. If you do the fabrication and jig it up the welding time per see is minimal I think mine cost $100. vs OEM part @$800
  6. Frank

    Hatch light

    Agree with all comments above, and make sure the ply end grain is epoxy sealed
  7. I have 3 metres in one strip, never used, has 2 minor bends which will flatten with a few taps when you bend onto the keel, I'm in Cocklebay, PM if interested chrs
  8. Thanks for all the helpful responses, I'll have to give this some thought and try and keep any solution simple, with the wrap-around and sleeve types they seem an ingenious solution but I would be worried about chafe over an extended period. The staysail is small and i have noticed it drops like stone when the halyard is released. I will talk my local sailmaker but I think two options 1. Drop the staysail and hoist the storm jib in the vacant luff groove, (be conservative and change early) 2. Furl the Staysail and hoist the storm jib pre-threaded on a spectra "wire l
  9. I am working through the checklist for Cat 1 and it requires both a storm jib and a heavy weather jib. Our boat has an inner forestay with a staysail on a furler, and the inspector has advised that this does not cover the storm jib requirement only the heavy weather Jib he also recommends that the storm jib should not be a furling sail, therefore I assume it would need to be a free luff sail just attached at the head, and tack . I'm interested to know what others have used in this regard and how it was rigged (particularly Matt of IT if you are online Chrs
  10. I'm tempted to demure but it would be a long debate with no winners and this is a yachting forum, I have no gripe with golf as a game, I cant hit the ball to save my life so never played.
  11. "By now you must realise the of boat ownership is viewed as a privilege and boaties must pay not the rate payer" Hmmmm........ they don't seem to apply this rule to the golf courses.
  12. We have a Airhead composting Toilet in the Land Yacht, and the usual manual type in the water yacht. As for the composting head we have done four short trips so far and here is what we have found. (I am assuming you have read the advertising blurb and watched the odd video) It deals with the solid waste as advertised, there is no smell other than perhaps a inoffensive mild peat like odour. It uses a small vent fan that must run 24/7 for it to work, this draws a trivial current and wont tax your battery so long as you have a modest amount of solar. The liquid waste goes in
  13. Thanks for the offer, I saw a few pushpit mounted ones on U Tube, Im considering that and also the deck fwd of the dodger, for both locations I would use a Hard case pack. I will PM you if I need a cradle. (Nice boat BTW )
  14. Worth a look , and I started watching you tube videos on this, In America they seem to prefer a hard case and a dedicated SS cradle bolted to the Coach Roof . One thought was to use a "soft Cradle" or basically a webbing harness made so that it was impossible for the raft to escape any opening. There would be a draw string lashing through loops on the top , pulling them together like the top of a duffle bag . The Cradle itself would be lashed to deck tiedowns which I may need to retrofit. One cut of the purse string and it is deployed.
  15. Good suggestion, I will check
  16. Yes, I must admit that had crossed my mind as well, they are awkward puppies at the best of times.
  17. I have been looking into options for a life raft and was keen on a 6 man Crewsaver in a valise. After making a scale cardboard model to the stated packed dimensions I found It cant fit it in the cockpit locker which was the preferred option , its close but not close enough. Next Option then is to get a smaller 4 man raft or stow it somewhere else, the two other options seem to be the deck or maybe in the fwd V berth which wont be occupied when passage making. I'm not so keen on the deck option even though I see it is common because I would be worried about it being washed off . The boat
  18. +1 for "head for Coromandel and work your way up via eastern side of the Gulf" Predominant NE weather is a PITA on the northland coast. Get to Happy Jacks and the cross the Colville Channel in half decent conditions , the Auckland side of GB has it all, Good diving and fishing, plenty of Kai, nice sailing in the lee of the easterlies, great anchorages and scenery .
  19. Thanks for the replies , good points made
  20. Our Heavy 38 ft Cruising yacht has a 3 bladed Max Prop but it came with a spare 2 blade fixed pitch propeller of the same Dia and Pitch (18 x 17) The 2 blade unit has a comparatively generous blade area and I am wondering if it would be more efficient than the Max Prop . My reasoning is that the Max Prop does in comparison does not seem to have an aerofoiled chord profile and has little if any twist in the blade. I am no expert on this topic but I assume compromises have to be made for feathering units. My experience with 2 blade folding propeller on a sail drive is they seem to have plenty
  21. For every person who swears by CC there seems to be another who says it didnt work, you pays your money you take your chances.
  22. I agree, why mix old and new tech, Just use a DC-DC charger, I'll be retrofitting one to my own Carpenter 29 next season with a smart shunt, BMS and Battery protect. We have the same batt set up as yours for now but with the new kit its also future proofed for Lithium. I use Victron , its pricey but of good quality and well supported, there are other good brands too but whatever you use its best to stick with one brand as these days they all talk to each other with digital smarts.
  23. I always use the hole saw trick TCT versions are inexpensive these days , glass, metal or whatever they go thought it all. Just pot the new one in over size hole with epoxy slurry, don't need the gland nut.
  24. Tow it outside of the environment and sink it , remove pollutants first
  25. Thanks for the kind offer Addem , I just got the loan of one from a 40 ft monohull very similar to our boat.
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