Frank
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Posts posted by Frank
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As a thought, if I were to bush hardener over the unset stuff, would it harden?
Or even harden enough to sand/mechanically remove?
Although if it didn't harden in correct ratios, it probably never will.
Wheels, I wasn't mixing products, this was a fresh layer
Brushing the hardener probably wont help, it is not like the catalyst for polyester, try a strong solvent like acetone or paint thinners and scrub with a coarse steelo pad like the SS ones. I have also had luck with painting a coat of interprotect over the gummy surface and then scraping or sanding that off after it set good luck !
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I wouldn't have thought a yachts auxillary would have enough power to tear a hole in the hull, maybe a bent shaft.
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What human comforts do you want on a race boat that he doesnt have? He has a bunk, hot food, ‘toilet’.
Food, sleep and a bucket ?..................Luxury !
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It's life Jim but not as we know it.
Set Phasers to stun and beam me up Scotty.
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Don't think she's an Oceans, think same hull as Tuxedo Junction, Quiet Riot et al. A well sailed 1220 would have the Wright 11 in breeze, even or a slight edge to the Wright in the light.
That would make a big difference, sounds like a scaled up lotus 10.2 or Wright 10, should be a nice all-rounder .
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If it is the Wright Oceans 11 then I think the 1220 would be significantly quicker
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There is a gentleman in our club who has done what wheels said , the boat was a 70's vintage Spencer design. It was semi abandoned and had not been hauled for many years.
The blistering was extensive and the blisters large he ground them out then waited until they stopped weeping. That took a long time I can't recollect exactly but is was many months, maybe a year. Then they were filled with pure epoxy glue (West System) and from there the usual paint process etc.it seems to have been successful with no new blisters in the intervening 4 yrs and he was adamant he had done many boats this way. I should say he is a boat painter and this was an extreme case I'm sure yours wont be anything like that bad. Glue is best as the filler because it is the least porous .
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Interesting ! so that completely rules out the mooring, for comparison my Carpenter 29 at Shelly Park has only ever had two wheels and it has never moved in 25 years. I wonder if successive lift and surveys over the years have seen it incorrectly positioned at some point. It is hard to see how anything else could move it, unless the previous owner allowed a heavier boat to borrow the mooring or somebody parked on it while it was unoccupied. The other possibility is the the HM records for the GPS position are wrong, here's hoping it can be resolved to your satisfaction !
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I still have an old Seven Seas marine pressurized alcohol stove in the Carpenter, its been in use for 25 years and was secondhand when we purchased it.
There are a few tips n tricks but overall it has been very reliable and cheap to run.
I purchase a 20 litre drum of un-dyed meths from TMG in east tamaki about once every three seasons and it costs about $80. The dyed product will clog the burners slowly or at least that is my experience.
The flame certainly does not seem to be as hot as gas but you get by and there does not seem to be any moisture issues.
Other advantages other than simplicity is that it does not leave an odour and if you have a fire you can put it out with water since they mix. Its handy as a mild solvent too !
The kero units burn hotter but my wife hates the smell, gotta listen to the boss:-)
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Adding to all the points above is your vessel bigger and heavier or than the previous boat ?
I say this because for it to drift there must have been insufficient weight for your boat, moorings should never drift if configured correctly for the boat. The contractor should be able to comment on that as they keep records of what they survey.
That is assuming that the drift did not partly occur with the previous vessel.
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I thought an update might be of interest, so today I fitted the assembly and ran the engine at about 2200 revs for 20 min, albeit not under load.
I measured a max temp of 70 deg C upstream of the water injection point and about 55 deg just after the injection point. The temp at the manifold end was a bit less so presumably the thermal mass of the cast iron manifold was a factor and the exhaust hose was barely warm.
The true test I suppose will be an extended run under load but so far it looks promising and there doesn't seem to be any steep temperature gradients.
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The Cat rules state that you must be compliant with the relevant gas code. AFAIK there is no way you would ever get a gas fitter to sign off the flexible connection to a gimballed stove, so it's all a crock of compliance crud.
Well ours did , the main feed from the bottle is solid copper with a yellow plastic sleeve but the connections at either end are flexible.
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Casting the net a bit wide on this one which is somewhat of a long shot but maybe somebody can help.
So I have a Volvo MD7B (3000 series) in the Carpenter 29 its mated to a 120S saildrive.(SD)
I'm considering fitting a low hrs Volvo 2002 engine and I'm told by the agency that it will bolt straight on. However after careful study I can see there will be a problem with the flywheel housing hitting the top of the SD plinth. The reason is quite straightforward in that the MD7B has the flywheel at the front of the motor but the 2002 has it at the rear, so there is more of the engine protruding downward over the top of the plinth. Looking at the volvo brochures it seems that the Top Housing (Gearbox Housing) on the 2002 is of a different profile than the MD7B setup with about 40mm more "depth" or height in the housing. This allows the motor to be mounted 40 mm higher off the plinth thus giving clearance for the flywheel. Has anybody with a 120S upgraded their motor and encountered this issue ?
For reference the Top Box is part of the saildrive assembly, not the engine.
Chrs
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Diving for scallops at kawau a large pod came over and essentially harassed us for an hour, my son got some great underwater footage. They come so close but somehow they always avoid contact even when they are right in your face, amazing creatures.
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Tidy workmanship there
Probably somewhat over engineered. However, as testing consisted of me and my 100(and some)kgs jumping up and down on it I'm now happy it will be ok with a few litres of waste in it.
There is still another piece to go on to stop any movement of the the tank backwards but had to plumb the pipes in before I can bolt that on.
Now just need to put the boat back together again.
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I have brought some of the new gen Tri-lux 2 , it is a hard AF for anything Aluminium and has some sort of Copper based compound in it. I'm no chemist but I guess it is in some form where It won't cause the Aluminium to corrode, we will see how it goes on the bulb and the sail drive.
Speaking of which what do folks recommend for gluing the fairing Boot to the hull ? I have used one of the Sikaflex compounds in the past it was OK but still needs re-doing after 4 - 5 seasons.
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Chrs, I will get hold of them !
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I will try the Vivid Petit on the bulb, something bright , maybe the barnacles wont like the colour.
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Hi Matt, et-al.
Well I have the earlier 3000 series MD7B which is still a good runner but raw water cooled. I'm going to convert it to fresh water cooled.
So if you see a suitable heat exchange somewhere please let me know of you there is an outfit that could build one ?
chrs
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Looks like this stuff might be the closest.
https://altexcoatings.co.nz/frontend/products.cfm?page=product&productid=3
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I have vivid on my boat, it’s not a true hard antifoul but it’s excellent stuff. Hard enough to stand up to scrubbing but soft enough that it falls off when spent.
That looks to be an Aluminium- safe product,ie no copper, the bulb is the worst part of the boat for barnacles, I'm not sure it would work out for my situation.You have given me a thought though, perhaps copper coat might do the trick.
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Can you buy Micron Ultra?
Looking on the website that seems to be ablative.
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Everything seems to be ablative these days, I need some hard black AF for the bulb and lower part of the keel. Does anyone know where I might get some ?
chrs
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I have a mate who has tried Black Pipe, he found it to be O.K but no better than cast iron, I haven't used it but that was his feedback. That Yanmar unit looks to be the answer so when this one is U.S I will adapt one of those.
Another mate fabricated one from Inconel, It was bulletproof, no idea where he got that from. Condenser tubes in the Leander frigates were Thick walled Cupro Nickel (Monel ?) so that's what the navy used.
Luna Rossa
in RaceTalk
Posted
That's for parking it on the sandbank so you can clean the bottom, handy feature.