Frank
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Posts posted by Frank
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There is some irony in your comments Jason because all three OEM elbows lasted about three seasons and then failed by cracking ! they also clogged up internally and rusted from the inside out.
When they cracked they leaked hot seawater on to the back of the engine causing yet more corrosion !
They were low quality sand castings so the metal was porous- not helpful. True the top part of the elbow was cooled but the lower part still got very hot.
The elbows are investment cast SS my money says they will outlast the cast iron by a factor of two but I accept they will eventually fail nothing lasts forever. The metal is ductile enough that I don't expect a failure to be catastrophic, we'll see.
I have a laser thermometer so I will report back on the temperature gradient,
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OK , I have trimmed the pipe right back and added an extension piece and deflector plate, I reckon it should work fine after final welding. -
From Minerva back to AKL in 30 kt SW on a 50 ft Ganley, was tedious but not in any way uncomfortable. My mate came back in a leopard in similar conditions the boat handled it fine but he found the motion odd it was sort of like a jerking ,lurching of the windward hull as the leeward one punched into the waves, overall he said he would have preferred a mono. But really doesn't it come Down to avoiding going to windward if you are cruising ? ha ha good luck with that
. I would still happily have a cat but dont have the budget. -
Yes that was in the back of my mind as well which is why I might go with a mod to the as-welded set up, it will be closest to the original design.
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Dang ! but all good comments thanks ! and I cant lay claim to the welding it was done by a mate and he is a pro !.
If you look carefully (it is not obvious) at the sectioned part the water is injected at the first elbow but then travels down an internal gallery and mixes at the last elbow. So while I guess it provides some overall cooling its probably not very effective.
It makes sense however that the water is deflected downwards by the elbow geometry thus spreading/forcing it into the gas flow.
I will talk it over with my welder mate but I think if I trim the existing pipe flush with the internal wall and add a horizontal deflector bar say 3 x 10 mm then I would probably get away with it, particularly if I extend with another socket and nipple as BOI mentioned. Other wise I will mod it and fabricate something to enter at the first elbow perhaps extending into the first nipple as mentioned. If I do that I might machine a two piece bolted standoff which mimics the OEM setup. More updates to follow !
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The Jandals are a special type for welding, here it is all welded up, Im experimenting with injecting the hot seawater down stream from the exhaust elbow. The specs of the exhaust hose say it is good up to 100 deg c so we shall see.
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It will be welded by Mon, the bits cost $80 at ANZOR, I will post another Pic.
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Game on -
What he said , been there
Its stuffed. Once it starts letting water through to the base layer, there is no going back.
The sooner you tackle the job, the easier it is, specifically that you have less rotten ply deck to cut out.
Basically do what raz said. We had to do it ourselves. Once you put down a nice new glass over ply deck, you wont miss the shitty looking old grey teak at all.
It is a simple enough job to tackle yourself, assuming you are half pie competent at DIY, and reading instructions. Invest in some good knee pads though....
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Thanks Guys and good spotting Matt ! The UK SS version seems like a good fit, I will make enquiries.
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Hi All, any guidance appreciated !
So the cast iron exhaust elbow on my Volvo MD7B has rusted out, no surprises there as they only last about four seasons. I have been quoted $800 for a replacement so I am looking at fabricating something in Stainless Steel. I would appreciate any input from someone who has done this, for instance what grade of Stainless would you recommend ?
I have sliced it in half to show the inner geometry, my thoughts were to use to fabricate the unit using cast butt weld elbows from the Anzor catalogue with some suitable straight pipe in the middle. From there I would weld a smaller dia pipe in top to inject the cooling water.
Thoughts ?
chrs
Frank
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American english ! the correct spelling is Gummint , as in Gummint this and Gummint that
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Tend to agree really. Gusty winds in the sounds so mostly motor everywhere and very few places you can anchor - too deep. Golden Bay is nice but quite a small area and only 3 or 4 reasonable anchorages. For the sounds and Durville island you need to become a Pelorus or Mana member to use the moorings. While we were at Durville a Given cat from Noumea had real difficulty retreiving their anchor as it was jammed under the many logs in the anchorage. Fishing down there is not great either with Blue Cod under severe restrictions. As WV said Fiordland and Stewart leave it for dead. Port Pegasus is one of my favourites, need to be prepared for the remoteness though. Waiting for weather at the top both Rangaunu and Houhora are great. Houhora - anchor just out of the channel just above the island near the entrance. There is also quite a reasonable anchorage east end Spirits bay inside the the little island in reasonable weather. Three Kings are interesting but need very settled weather. 3 wee anchorages there, Cascade on the SE possibly the best. Give Reinga and Van Dieman a wide berth to avoid the adverse tide rip. In February on a cruise to the Kaipara we stopped for lunch at Ahipara. Quite nice there also in good weather. Kaipara is great cruising - spent a month there and could have stayed longer but local knowledge a help. Need 1.5m or less swell for a safe bar crossing and generally travel inside the harbour on an incoming tide. New Plymouth is ok but not much room to anchor and not good in a stiff northerly. Been around the top 10 times now and never had a real rough one but always watching the weather like a hawk and using plenty of diesel ie calm conditions. Always only been up there in february or march.
good intel
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Its insane, the cockpit is so sparse and no dodger or pod, almost like it will sail robotically around the world with Alex as a Systems Manager.
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Right under North cape?
We are planning to do a more or less non stop trip from AKL to the Three Kings in the coming season, just to shakedown a bunch of upgrades and fixes. Any suggestions on the best time and conditions ? I had heard that a SW was best or maybe a Westerly, I suppose March is the most settled but its nice to have a decent breeze too.
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At that size you are into a law of diminishing returns with exotic construction, the gains are marginal if any.
Abel Seaman is on the money, use 3mm marine Gaboon for the hull and glass the bottom to the waterline. Keep the use of solid timber to a minimum and use something light like Kahikatea . Finally watch the painting , as that can add a surprising amount of weight too, often for no gain in durability.
You will struggle to build lighter and it wont cost much.
There is still a simple pleasure in rowing a well designed lightweight dinghy.
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Three feet.
I'm with Zozza on this one, I have seen a yacht passing an anchored tinnie at the back of Ponui, with similar clearance.
A gust hit at the wrong moment, the boat rounded up sharply and a collision was avoided by inches. There were several people in the tinnie, the owner was so angry he literally could not speak (yes that angry). I mean 3 ton boat moving at 5 knots What could possibly go wrong ?
Its arrogance In my view, might be different in a fleet race with other competitors where it is natural competitive outcome.
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This thread should be moved to Small Talk
just kidding.-
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We have a cordless drill of that brand, it wasn't cheap but the quality is superb. if you have a mate travelling to the US you might save a bit so long as it has a 12V charger.
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That would be gold for hoisting the main on the Hood.
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I did it on my carpenter 29 just as described above, 160 Kg of BUKH 10,piece of cake.
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We were wondering this for Minerva reef while stuck there for 10 days in May.
Officially claimed by Tonga but no shore to go ashore on. Could you sail there and sail back to Nz without checking in/out?
You can go ashore there but only when the tide is low
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for what it is worth on the aircraft lav plumbing we use Acetic acid same as what you find in Vinegar.
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Absolutely unacceptable .Unlike the Global Warming hoax this is real. If you kill the ocean and its life the (in)human race is really stuffed. And unlike GW this is preventable. Good cause here BP. Keep beating this drum.
In the first sentence you say GW is a hoax and in the second you seem to imply it is preventable ? ...confusing.
Mono Heel fatigue vs Catamaran SLAP, oh to dream canter keel cruiser
in MarineTalk
Posted
Doing a coastal classic a few years back on a 38 ft performance cruising cat ( Mini Keels and CB's) we did 12Kn hard on the wind but pointed several degrees lower than a Cav 32 which was abeam.The Cav had a newish wardrobe and I presume was making about 6kn, our SOG worked out to be the same as the Cav.
The Lagoon 40 I hired with some work colleagues in 2014 (Belize) sailed like a barge but once the anchor was down it was pure cruising luxury !
As Darkside says 90% of cruising is at rest and that is where the cat wins outright.
My mate says the only person who enjoys going to windward is the one with the helm.