Frank
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Posts posted by Frank
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Its a whisker pole , used on symmetrical spinnakers , to hold the guy (windward sheet) off the side stays (prevents chafe) when the pole is well fwd,(ie almost touching the mast)
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I have recovered a few sunken moorings over the years, a small grapnel towed behind a dinghy did the job. This was always done at dead at low tide and once hooked you then dive down the rope and attach a heavy line for recovery. This has also been used to recover lost dive belts but with a smaller grapnel, so the technique works fine as long as there is something for the grapnel to hook on to. Stating the bleeding bloody obvious I suppose but your biggest challenge is the area you have to cover. The grapnel was four pronged made from 8mm rebar 400 mm Long and 180 mm Dia. Patience is key sometimes it took 2 or 3 hrs to hook it but worth it for $1700 perhaps.
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My first yacht had one of those old VDO cable units, I'm sure the impeller was white
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What was the original post about again ?? cats or something
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True but with freediving the only potential point of failure is your own judgement ie ignoring the warning signs that you learn your body tells you. With scuba you have the added risk of equipment failure which is largely outside your control.
Equipment failure and or its consequences are not outside your control if your equipment is well maintained and you are properly trained in established safe procedures such as diving with a buddy and using an Octi and a spare dive computer. etc.
I have free dived and I like the simplicity of it I have immense respect for competent free divers, I also have a master SCUBA ticket via PADI but I'm no more stressed free diving than SCUBA diving, I understand the risks of both and take adequate precautions. Sometimes despite all this there are accidents both with free divers and SCUBA, nothing is totally risk free.
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Or put a dive flag up which means to others go as fast as you can past...no matter what the distance!
You can also go as fast as you can if you are travelling through moored vessels or going over the top of the dive flag or diver. The flag should be well visible so the vessel has something to aim for otherwise they risk missing the diver or the boat with the topman.
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I'm attracted to the scorkl because it is hand pumped even though it takes 12 minutes to load it up according to the blurb. Carrying an air cylinder to recharge a spare air type systen would appear in my case to be a bit self defeating.
I would be happy to do that in NZ, but French canal water? Perhaps not. .
After 12 min of pumping I suspect you will be "over it" I have used a Spare Air while cleaning a boat and it lasted about 5 min . The problem being that as soon as you start exerting yourself with cleaning you will dramatically increase your air consumption. The bottle in the Scorkel picture looks to be smaller than the Spare Air bottle I used.
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Kim, ones a hookah, ones a hooker. Minor differences in words can get you in a lot of trouble!
The Hookah is cheaper , yes I have one and they work well.
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We purchased an offshore yacht a year ago, buying.local was easily cheaper when everything was factored in and would possibly be more so now.
Opua in the summer can be a good place for viewing bluewater cruisers.
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He won the nationals held last week too, still got it after all this time.
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Launched a new boat, 
in a manner of speaking -
I might just use my dive torch.
https://www.seatech.co.nz/products/bigblue-vl7200p-tri-color-rechargeable-led-light
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I have built a few boats, mostly small but some large, so now, I'm crafting my first half model which is a Carpenter 29, just because its been our family cruising boat for 25 yrs. I have used Kauri with Mahogany for the boot stripe/waterline. Its been a lot of fun but ridiculously time consuming even though I have enjoyed the creative process. The next one, a Hood 38 will be a painted hull because its easier to fix the stuff-ups
and I think they look better. -
That price is ridiculous, understandable perhaps if the vessel was rundown with years of deferred maintenance, but she seemed to be very well maintained.
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What did she go for ?
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I ' spose for you guys anything north of Auckland is "foreign"..
and south of Auckland, we don't discriminate
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We switched to a new contractor at the local club recently, they have been very professional, good on communication and no complaints other than price. But that was mostly because all the moorings needed upgrading to the Harbour Board spec and most were well overdue because of continuing delays by the old provider.
All the contractors have been flat out therefore unless they happen to have the barge in your particular area there will be a wait.
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I’ve looked for an hour and I can’t see a wheel...
Keep Looking, its in there somewhere
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That looks like it is/was a Mullet boat.
A classic Mullet Boat for sure and the brutal market reality is it that it is junk
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Shaft seal is pretty easy. Take off prop, anode, bearing carrier - bearing carrier has the shaft seal as well. If the cause of the leak is a damaged shaft (a piece of fishing braid can cut into the shaft) then it needs to be fixed or the new seal will leak. If there is a groove in the shaft you can catch your fingernail in, either remove the shaft and get an engineering shop to repair the shaft, or cover it with a speedy sleeve (cheap and works great). Check the play in the shaft as well.
Top leak, you'll have to find. Could be simply the o ring around the filler cap, or the dipstick one. Clean it up, look for where its coming from.
And then, once its going, check the oil more often!!
What he said , just check the oil on a regular basis, this might help
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Or go plywood. Check out Chesapeake light craft
Rodger that, I built a few Chesapeake 16 kayaks , very fast and relatively inexpensive to build also light if you take care and use Gaboon plywood.
Their Shearwater kayaks also have lovely lines although they involve a bit more work.
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Thanks All - yes rolling and brushing white over badly faded white.
My C29 is painted with perfection , sprayed on with the recommended polyurethane undercoat, its a good product and the painter went around twice so yes two coats effectively. When all the cost and prep work is added up I figured it was worth paying someone to gun on the liquid gold.
Also, I'm Just putting it out there but every person in my local club without exception and including myself has experienced failure of two part polyurethane when applied directly over epoxy undercoat (exterior finishes). Both wooden and fiberglass hulls were involved and based on non scientific observation there seemed to be some sort of interaction with the two products in the presence of UV. The topcoat degrades and goes slightly powdery then comes away after about three or four seasons.
It really does pay to stick with the makers instructions with such expensive products.
Try united paints for an excellent 2 pack topcoat at half the price of perfection
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North Minerva is an interesting spot the entrance is wide and clear and the lagoon itself seems to have few if any coral heads, its a very large area . There are supposed to be large crayfish in the reef pools at night but we never saw any, but plenty of Tongans collecting Beche de Mer. Diving on the South Side of the entrance is excellent. If you have decent tackle trolling the reef edge can be exciting.
Wow google Minerva reef and check out some the drone footage from the likes on Magique over the last few years
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Abandoned Boats
in MarineTalk
Posted
How about the boat owner applying some self logic before we blame the council ? why should they inherit the problem and then pass the cost on to the rate payers.
Boat owner self -logic checklist
1. Maintain the boat in a seaworthy state
2. Service the mooring
3. Keep the vessel insured
4. When selling it meet the market
5. Be realistic about your ability to do all of the above, financially, Physically and mentally, don't do the maritime equivalent of fly-tipping and simply walk away.