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Frank

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Posts posted by Frank

  1. P.S As I understand it a gas certificate is only required if you have reticulated supply so  a small Barbecue with a screw in canister would not qualify. Only AC Shore Power wiring would require an electrical WOF but bear in mind you can kill yourself with AC at 220V regardless of the source so a WOF might be a good idea regardless. (My old Engineering tutor said that in the right conditions anything over 50V could be lethal) 

  2. There nothing new in this requirement, its typical in my experience, I faced this in Feb 2023 and it was a report of overall condition ie sound and seaworthy rather than what they do for a pre purchase survey. The rigging was not included but we had to show evidence that it was less than ten years old as per the policy. In regard to an electrical WOF (Shore Power AC only) and a gas certificate, you should have these if applicable and its best to get the agent to place them on your file.

  3. I have sailed on a cat that is probably  somewhere between say a Lagoon and a Gunboat in performance terms. During a coastal classic race the VMG was the same as an adjacent Cav 32 while going to windward ie 6 knots, the CB's made only a marginal difference. 

  4. 1 hour ago, Jon said:

    No

    but saying that the number of people we met in Fiji this year in cats mostly, that said ‘we motor or motorsail always on passage” surprised me 

    ‘There doesn’t seem to be the level of sailing skills in the cruising fleet that you would expect 

    Some cats (Brand/model redacted) need a motor when the wind is forward of the beam :-), even skilled sailors may still motorsail if it means making good time to dodge a deteriorating  weather window not so much of an issue perhaps on vessels that can average 180 - 200 miles per day 

  5. On 11/09/2023 at 2:54 PM, raz88 said:

    Funnily enough the Elliott I mentioned had started its life in Perth, and over 30 years been a fair number of places in between there and Auckland harbour with its trusty old 18hp engine...

    Yes you want a boat to motor well, but a 30hp should be fine in a whiting 40, or at least worth not ruling it out without investigation. 

    You can get away with being underpowered if you plan around it but I would definitely want 40hp in a boat of that size. As commented o elsewhere  a saildrive should make more effective use of available HP and likewise a 3 Bladed Fixed pitch prop. The latter will create more drag when sailing  but in a decent breeze its not a major and in the lighter airs offshore you are likely to be motor sailing to maintain planned daily mileage and stay inside a weather window. Another factor to consider is windage, drag increases by the square of wind speed and when the vessel is fully configured for offshore this can be significantly increased with Inner forestay, furled sails , Stack Pack, Lazy Jacks, Radar Arch and Solar Panels, Spare Jerry Cans of Fuel,dinghy on the foredeck and so on. As others have commented the cheapest Cat 1 yacht is one that was recently compliant and the equipment is included in the sale inventory. The cost to  refit a 1980's GRP 40 ft yacht for an offshore passage will depend very much on its current state and what you need vs what you can do without. Its somewhat down to personal choice and Its easy to omit certain items until your significant other gets a vote and suddenly a watermaker, increased tankage and hot shower  is mission critical :-). Well you also don't need a new mainsail or genoa until you take it in to the sailmaker for repairs and he says "Jaysus I wouldn't go offshore with that " OK he might be after a sale but also trying to tell you something !.  I would budget north of 100K Divided into three categories

    1. Equipment Upgrades
    2. Modifications , such as a Radar Arch, Solar Panels, Water Maker etc etc
    3. Anything on the CAT 1 list that is not already covered by the first two categories.

      It sounds daunting maybe but if it is spread over say 5 or 6 seasons and you put plenty of sweat equity into it then its quite feasible and you will then know the vessel inside out which comes in handy when you are halfway to fiji and the engine dies just as your crew say "why is there water over the floorboards" 
  6. I'm curious as to why you cant cut and polish LPU's, I saw a DIY re-spray recently with a flawless finish, achieved by cutting and polishing. The owner said It was an automotive 2 part (2K ?)  lacquer but not a marine product as such. Do we have any paint experts who can comment on the difference ? If you cant cut n polish a marine LPU then presumably the chemistry is different to automotive 2K PU. 

  7. "take the info with a grain of salt" (Critical Thinking  ?) and "not always accurate" likely should be applied to any information on the info-bahn.

    The first instance of  duff or slightly duff gen probably goes back to caveman rock drawings or we wouldn't have unicorns which incidentally may have existed  at the end of the last  ice age , either that or it may be duff :-)

    https://www.google.com/search?q="Elasmotherium+sibiricum&oq="Elasmotherium+sibiricum&aqs=chrome..69i57.1841j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

     

  8. I still use it and donate regularly, its not perfect but still preferable to sites with inane and irritating adds which are mostly irrelevant to me.

    I can see the day when I will pay for add free you tube.

    • Like 1
  9. 14 hours ago, LBD said:

    Pulled out the Gas Califont, in preparaition of installing a 25L engine heated hotwater cylinder. We always motor about an hour a day to and from anchorages and moorings... should be enough. Does anyone have experience they would like to  share?

    Replaced  the copper and brass, blocked grease line to the stern tube with a nice stainless set.  I can once again pump grease into the tube before leaving  the boat unattended without water dripping... Will go dripless seal in the future. What grease are others using? 

    Replaced the little toy Rule shower/basin/sink grey water sump set up,  with a custom, robust, 25L HDPE tank and an external 1 and 1/4 inch Jabsco gulper pump that will not choke on coffee grinds down the sink.

    Ours works great, it was in the boat when we purchased it, no complaints, the vessel also has a PSS shaft seal which has never leaked in 6 years including a recent 5 month trip to the islands. It is a bit freaky compared to the admiralty gland  because you only have to pull the bellows back with relatively light hand pressure and water pours in, I took a bicycle inner tube along as an emergency seal but need not have worried. I have tried the lip seal type and I could never get the bloody thing it to work no matter how much grease I pumped in even and with sea water cooling it was useless, It also wore a groove in the shaft. 

    • Like 1
  10. On 20/09/2023 at 7:54 AM, CarpeDiem said:

    So fundamentally one in the same.  Separated by a thin veil of see through fabric. Good to know. Thanks for clearing that up for me. 

    I wonder if the trust deed a document Auckland ratepayers can access ? might be interesting to see the content 

  11. Back in the day when my local club also serviced the members moorings we tried bolting blocks of zinc to the upper chain which was black steel with only the light buoy chain being galvanised the observed results on my mooring were

    1. The zinc block did not seem to dissolve much.

    2. It did not increase the life of the chain.

    3. The prop shaft anode dissolved in 3 months instead of lasting a year.

    4. The propellor surface became pitted.

    Another vessel suffered corrosion and pitting on the surface of the steel bilge keels and other members reported their protective anodes were dissolving faster.

    We abandoned the practice after two seasons.

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1
    • Upvote 2
  12. 10 hours ago, DrWatson said:

    Coupled to better weather forecasting is that you can more easily afford the time to sit out bad weather - catch up later. 

    If and when you get caught out, you can turn and run more safely, and you can still heave-to, should you need to. 
    If you’re running from bad weather - sitting on 15knots for six hours will move you a fair way from where you were - hopefully to a better spot on the ocean. Firefly easily sits on 15-18kts with 30 behind, reaching more than 20 in the gusts with a bit if surfing, with reefed main and stays’l - an easy sail plan. The bow has not threatened to dig in at any point (yet). The unofficial record for a pogo 36, so I’ve heard, is just under 25kt, set by a factory crew delivering hull No 1 to the La Rochelle boat show - just two weeks after launch. I believe the A2 was outside it’s recommended range..

    Sure you need sea room - but we’re talking about offshore, yeah?

    But for sure beating into even 22kt from Quiberon to Lorient for a few hours made the majority of the (inexperienced) crew reconsider their choice to book non-refundable non- changeable tickets for the next morning -  Safe, but uncomfortable. 

    Those figures are amazing ! do you ever get any case rattle or movement of the retractable keel ? and what are the polars when fully powered up, hard on the wind in a decent sea ?

     

  13. In dealing with insurance companies I have found they  tarred all swing moorings with the same brush in that they saw less risk with Pile Moorings and better still a marina.

    Only once in 30 years do I recall a broker commenting that the area my boat is moored in was considered to be relatively protected.

    A few years back there was a blow where several vessels in the Tamaki river came adrift with one sinking. I noticed my premium went up at the next renewal and I wonder if we might see this again soon. 

  14. Good feedback, no surprise I suppose that high volume sterns score heavily in conditions that promote planing and perhaps you compensate with fuller fwd sections. 

    I suppose to that modern forecasting and route planning tools have improved the odds of predicting benign weather where a lighter displacement is going to be an advantage most of the time.

  15. On a recent offshore cruise I noticed some production monohulls seem to have taken stern volumes to extreme levels with transom widths that would do justice to an aircraft carrier, I presume these are influenced by racing classes such as the IMOCA 60 ? 

    Does anyone have experience on how these  perform at sea when tight reaching or going to windward ? I would have thought that as swell/wave passes under the stern the forward hull sections would struggle to counter the enormous buoyancy aft producing a very harsh motion.... curious !

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