Frank
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Posts posted by Frank
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Seems like you were down the coal hole for a wee while on that very tidy installation. I started using some of that blue coloured additive when I installed the holding tank on our Carpenter, it seems to stop the horrible smells. I'll fess up and admit I don't know what its environmental credentials are like, just add a capful when flushing a no 2.
For my sins I replaced two magnificent but frozen Bronze Sea Cocks with Nylon/glass units and replumbed the cockpit drains on the Hood 38 and the next job was to replace the steering cable, which was fun but at least I know how it works now. Being an old school hull shape the boat is narrow at the stern so both jobs required a fair degree of contortion in the coal hole.
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Two Fat Buns at Oneroa is another Jem, they do amazing burgers, best to phone in the order from the boat .
One day someone will fit out a power cat with grill and coffee machine and make a killing serving the popular anchorages, or go bankrupt
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On 14/02/2023 at 2:39 PM, aardvarkash10 said:
damn. No Sad Face emoji.
That looks to be salvageable and looks like an old-school overbuilt design so hopefully the hull is not breached, damn shame about that beautiful cat though
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As Waikiore says open all the hatches and let the current warm weather and any breeze do the trick, your "friend" was lucky its only fresh water it should be fine:-)
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13 hours ago, BNG said:
What's the crankcase pressure like? ie the ventilation usually off the top of the rocker cover. If obstructed this will raise crankcase pressure and bring anything that might leak to the front of the queue. If you can get a slight vacuum by connecting the vent to the induction side even better.
Hmmmmm, good point, I will check that.
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19 hours ago, LBD said:
I am firmly in the no camp for fuel system cleaning, de carboning and friction modifying products, but this is something different.... give it a try if you are inclined and tell us the results. Forever the skeptic on such things, I am keen to hear the outcome... maybe this one does do what it says on the can.
I will let you know
I agree re fuel additives I put them in the same class as the supplements pushed on 1ZB
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17 hours ago, Steve Pope said:
You have nothing to lose, especially as you plan an overhaul sooner rather than later. do your sums though re the overhaul if you aren't doing it yourself, it is often amazing how the combined labour, parts, cleaners, and other incidental charges can get out of hand, and you will still have an engine with many old parts (crank, con rods, pistons? etc. etc.) and as all good English engines do, it will still leak oil, after all no leaks on an english engine means no oil. I am not in favour of the new breed of Diesel's they can be very finiky and easy to go wrong with such tight tolerances, especially tucked away as they usually are on a yacht, something goes outside a particular setting and they shut down or run at a much reduced power, invairably just when it is critical that they keep running at full power. The Older generation Diesels, (Kubota for one)naturally aspirated marinised ones, (Beta, Nanni etc.) are a huge improvement, (no reaky the oir, for a start.) Amazingly reliable, parts available from tractor suppliers rather than from (much) dearer marine outlets. There are a lot of carpet baggers in the supplement industry, and they take in a huge amounts of money from people hoping to save money and achieve a cheap fix, buy now!!! and there's more, buy 3 and etc. etc. What could possibly go wrong.
I have a 2016 Transit van and can attest to the complexity of modern diesels the engine per see seems fine it is the emissions control system with its numerous sensors and associated silicone chimps that is seems endlessly finicky. The Volvo saildrive in my carpenter 29 has an engine made in japan by Shibaura for Perkins and sold as a Volvo ! it has all three companies listed on the data plate . Yes I source Shibaura Tractor parts where possible because Volvo spare parts costs are insane. From a cost/benefit perspective a new Beta 50 Hp would be better value than an overhaul, we will see when the time comes I suppose
"no leaks on an english engine means no oil." LOL, true !
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Sorry for the OTT headline, I have been watching too many You Tube videos
the real situation is that the Perkins 4108 in our yacht has the usual 4108 curse of a leaking rear crankcase seal but is otherwise in good nick and utterly reliable. While I appreciate its not a permanent fix I was wondering about using this American Rislone Oil additive until next season when we will probably remove the motor and future proof it with an overhaul. The reviews are promising but if anyone has experience with it I'd appreciate some feedback.
P.S I'm aware that there are schools of thought on oil additives with some folk being adamant that they are not a good idea, period ! my attitude is that it depends on the product and the context. This stuff has been available for years so I'm assuming the manufacturer would have been litigated to bankruptcy by now if there was any risk of damaging the engine.
Chrs
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You would have to love almost constant hard work to maintain a varnished deck in the NZ sun, just use a good paint system and some sort of non skid.If you want the joy of natural timber then varnished cabin sides are more manageable albeit still a fair bit of work, they look great against the paint though. All of the woolacotts I sailed on were carvel built a three skin hull version is unusual particularly for 1950. You might be better to check the forums on Waitemata Woody's for intel on painting classic wooden boats.
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All good in my corner of Cocklebay, but possibly some slips on the local cliff edge properties, will take a stroll when the suns out and see. Last time we had a big wet like this there were a handful that lost some of the front lawn.
50 properties red stickered and 141 yellow stickered is surreal and I'm guessing the bulk of those red stickered will result in a total wipeout of the properties value unless remedial Geo engineering can recover and stabilise the land, its a sad situation.
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On 18/12/2022 at 9:22 PM, Priscilla II said:
The puzzle joint is CNC cut along with the rest of the dinghy and the fit is very accurate.
As to strength the sole and garboard will get glassed both sides and the hull strake joints will receive a light cloth backing glassed on the inside.
It is one version of many puzzle joints for marine applications ,Russel Brown utilises a variation on his PT II nesting dinghy and I do not see any disadvantages.
Scarfing has its place too and Vivier supplies plans that include this method however I am embracing the CNC big model kit thing wholeheartedly and it certainly makes for a very tidy workspace.
I suspect the contact area in that puzzle joint would easily match that of an 8:1 scarph and possibly even exceed it.
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On 18/12/2022 at 9:22 PM, Priscilla II said:
The puzzle joint is CNC cut along with the rest of the dinghy and the fit is very accurate.
As to strength the sole and garboard will get glassed both sides and the hull strake joints will receive a light cloth backing glassed on the inside.
It is one version of many puzzle joints for marine applications ,Russel Brown utilises a variation on his PT II nesting dinghy and I do not see any disadvantages.
Scarfing has its place too and Vivier supplies plans that include this method however I am embracing the CNC big model kit thing wholeheartedly and it certainly makes for a very tidy workspace.
I suspect the contact area in that puzzle joint would easily match that of an 8:1 scarph and possibly even exceed it.
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If you never want to replace it again fabricate it in monel.
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On my MD7 i purchased cast SS plumbing fittings from anzor in east tamaki, screwed them together and had a fab shop do the welding, I recycled the Plain steel four bolt flange by welding it to the SS fittings. If you do the fabrication and jig it up the welding time per see is minimal I think mine cost $100. vs OEM part @$800
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Agree with all comments above, and make sure the ply end grain is epoxy sealed
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I have 3 metres in one strip, never used, has 2 minor bends which will flatten with a few taps when you bend onto the keel, I'm in Cocklebay, PM if interested
chrs
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Thanks for all the helpful responses, I'll have to give this some thought and try and keep any solution simple, with the wrap-around and sleeve types they seem an ingenious solution but I would be worried about chafe over an extended period.
The staysail is small and i have noticed it drops like stone when the halyard is released.
I will talk my local sailmaker but I think two options
1. Drop the staysail and hoist the storm jib in the vacant luff groove, (be conservative and change early)
2. Furl the Staysail and hoist the storm jib pre-threaded on a spectra "wire luff" using a spare halyard.
Either way it Looks Like B and G sails will be getting a bit more of my money soon
I would have thought that when we get down to storm jib conditions we will probably be looking to Heave to whereupon Jim Lott advises we are unlikely to want any sail forward of the mast just the main with no 4 reef. This makes me wonder if it is something that might never be used, well that would be a good thing I suppose.
It seems the staysail only works in harmony with the Genoa when reaching with the wind fwd of the beam so if we replace it with the storm jib at the start of the passage its pre-rigged. and ready to go.
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I am working through the checklist for Cat 1 and it requires both a storm jib and a heavy weather jib.
Our boat has an inner forestay with a staysail on a furler, and the inspector has advised that this does not cover the storm jib requirement only the heavy weather Jib he also recommends that the storm jib should not be a furling sail, therefore I assume it would need to be a free luff sail just attached at the head, and tack .
I'm interested to know what others have used in this regard and how it was rigged (particularly Matt of IT if you are online
Chrs
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9 hours ago, Ex Machina said:
Yeah I’ve yet to see a golf course with a big galvanised gate and a keypad .
I'm tempted to demure but it would be a long debate with no winners and this is a yachting forum, I have no gripe with golf as a game, I cant hit the ball to save my life so never played.
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10 hours ago, harrytom said:
It is exactly the same as when the mooring debacle went on,moving from Okahu bay to Hobson. A few complained but no one said repair the break water .There lies the problem breakwater goes the mussels went and insurance companies saying rates going up if moor there. If the breakwater was repaired and eaterlies waves would of been reduced and possably yachts saved,but no,All sit their hands till it happens.
By now you must realise the of boat ownership is viewed as a privilege and boaties must pay not the rate payer.
"By now you must realise the of boat ownership is viewed as a privilege and boaties must pay not the rate payer" Hmmmm........ they don't seem to apply this rule to the golf courses.
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We have a Airhead composting Toilet in the Land Yacht, and the usual manual type in the water yacht. As for the composting head we have done four short trips so far and here is what we have found. (I am assuming you have read the advertising blurb and watched the odd video)
- It deals with the solid waste as advertised, there is no smell other than perhaps a inoffensive mild peat like odour.
- It uses a small vent fan that must run 24/7 for it to work, this draws a trivial current and wont tax your battery so long as you have a modest amount of solar.
- The liquid waste goes into a separate vessel and its surprising how quickly this fills, the human body sure does expels a lot of fluid. Expect to empty it every 48 hrs with two adults, probably daily with kids. if it is more than say 60% fill you would want to empty it before sailing I would say.
- There Is the benefit of less hull penetrations etc but you will need an external exhaust for the vent fan.
- Its very fast/easy to install.
- It sits a bit higher than the common marine head so you might have to compensate for that.
- You would only need to empty the solids every 3 to 6 months, just tip into a clean sack and put in the rubbish or use it to compost non edible garden shrubs etc.
- its a bit of a misnomer to call it a composting toilet because it does not really reach full composted stage but more a dessicated peat like mix of waste and coconut fibre.
- All users have to sit down to pee.
I would say its definitely a viable option so longs as you are prepared to take on a different perspective.
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Thanks for the offer, I saw a few pushpit mounted ones on U Tube, Im considering that and also the deck fwd of the dodger, for both locations I would use a Hard case pack. I will PM you if I need a cradle. (Nice boat BTW )
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7 hours ago, Black Panther said:
I suspended a valise above a quarter berth with a couple of snap shackles for quick release
Worth a look , and I started watching you tube videos on this, In America they seem to prefer a hard case and a dedicated SS cradle bolted to the Coach Roof . One thought was to use a "soft Cradle" or basically a webbing harness made so that it was impossible for the raft to escape any opening. There would be a draw string lashing through loops on the top , pulling them together like the top of a duffle bag . The Cradle itself would be lashed to deck tiedowns which I may need to retrofit. One cut of the purse string and it is deployed.
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8 hours ago, CarpeDiem said:
I once had a valise repacked from a suitcase shape into a rollbag of the same volume.
Might be an option to get it repacked to fit into the locker?
Good suggestion, I will check
CNC Cutting
in MarineTalk
Posted
Thats a good looking dinghy, nice work