Frank
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Posts posted by Frank
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I have been looking into options for a life raft and was keen on a 6 man Crewsaver in a valise. After making a scale cardboard model to the stated packed dimensions I found It cant fit it in the cockpit locker which was the preferred option , its close but not close enough.
Next Option then is to get a smaller 4 man raft or stow it somewhere else, the two other options seem to be the deck or maybe in the fwd V berth which wont be occupied when passage making. I'm not so keen on the deck option even though I see it is common because I would be worried about it being washed off . The boat has stout Iroko grab rails on the coach roof but I still would not trust them to restrain a 50Kg raft. We could probably also stow one behind the companionway steps.
Well a bit of a ramble here but any input is appreciated.
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5 hours ago, Zozza said:
Of course, long range forecasts for the summer are just that, "long range and subject to change" - but all the models I am looking at are currently predicting a lot of NE, NNE
My initial plan was wait for a SW around New Years and head for Barrier, than a E through to S to head further north, but if the winds are days on end from the N / NE quarter I don't want to get stuck for a week say, at Kawau on the Western side of the Gulf waiting for a window to head to Barrier.... maybe if the NE does dominate, head for Coromandel and work your way up via eastern side of the Gulf with the better angle to that predominate wind ?
Of course in the end, the wind will rule, and will dictate any would be plans.
Those with the decades of experience round the Gulf, any thoughts?+1 for "head for Coromandel and work your way up via eastern side of the Gulf" Predominant NE weather is a PITA on the northland coast. Get to Happy Jacks and the cross the Colville Channel in half decent conditions , the Auckland side of GB has it all, Good diving and fishing, plenty of Kai, nice sailing in the lee of the easterlies, great anchorages and scenery
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Thanks for the replies , good points made
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Our Heavy 38 ft Cruising yacht has a 3 bladed Max Prop but it came with a spare 2 blade fixed pitch propeller of the same Dia and Pitch (18 x 17) The 2 blade unit has a comparatively generous blade area and I am wondering if it would be more efficient than the Max Prop . My reasoning is that the Max Prop does in comparison does not seem to have an aerofoiled chord profile and has little if any twist in the blade. I am no expert on this topic but I assume compromises have to be made for feathering units. My experience with 2 blade folding propeller on a sail drive is they seem to have plenty of "bite" assuming the motor and prop are matched to the vessel of course.
We can "hide" the 2 blade unit behind the fat keel so I don't think there will be any extra drag under sail.
I understand that we would have to fit the spare and do sea trials to be sure of any difference, however any comments from propeller experts would be appreciated.
chrs
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For every person who swears by CC there seems to be another who says it didnt work, you pays your money you take your chances.
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10 hours ago, CarpeDiem said:
Some DC DC chargers will trickle charge the start battery when they have excess energy and the house battery is finished charging.
The CTEK 250SE is one such unit which includes a MPPT for solar. Coupled with the CTEK 120S this is a pretty good solution for a Lead Acid bank. But it is pricy.
I highly suspect you already have dissimilar batteries? Probably a Starter and a Deep Cycle. Most start batteries don't like being charged to 14.7v while most deep cycle batteries need to be charged to 14.7v.
I would certainly go DC/DC over VSR any day.
I agree, why mix old and new tech, Just use a DC-DC charger, I'll be retrofitting one to my own Carpenter 29 next season with a smart shunt, BMS and Battery protect. We have the same batt set up as yours for now but with the new kit its also future proofed for Lithium. I use Victron , its pricey but of good quality and well supported, there are other good brands too but whatever you use its best to stick with one brand as these days they all talk to each other with digital smarts.
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I always use the hole saw trick TCT versions are inexpensive these days , glass, metal or whatever they go thought it all. Just pot the new one in over size hole with epoxy slurry, don't need the gland nut.
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Tow it outside of the environment and sink it , remove pollutants
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Thanks for the kind offer Addem , I just got the loan of one from a 40 ft monohull very similar to our boat.
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Headed to Fiji next year with the Island Cruising NZ Rally, does anyone know of a reasonably priced pre-loved drouge or one that I can beg borrow or rent ? Yacht is 11.2 Metres and 12.5 Ton , hope this is not an unreasonable query, chrs
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When a painter sprayed my C29 it was touch and go on the dew point so we put fan heaters in the boat and I slept on board , we got away with it except for a wee patch near the anchor locker. On another note a number of fellow club members have had durability issues with 2 Part Poly applied over an epoxy base, myself too. It seemed to fade and chalk up after three seasons or so and the lunch room consensus was that the UV was encouraging some sort of chemical interaction with the epoxy.
I'm sure the Altex manf instructions say its OK though and with the number of coats you have put on it should be fine but in the unlikely event you have issues I would hold them to account, she looks sharp, good finish.
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Anybody have knowledge on this rescue ? I heard they had steering issues but it looks to be nice vessel, I suppose it will drift or be sunk outside the environment.
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I've had a Carpenter 29 for several years, it is a good Middle of The Road racer cruiser, the Young 88 and Ross 930 are faster.
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On 11/08/2022 at 9:12 PM, Abel Seaman said:
Well I followed Aardvarkash10' suggestion and bought an EPEVER MPPT controller. It does seem like the cost /quality point i was looking for. Actually it arrived today and seems to be a solid bit of gear.
My next question regards series or parallel. I already have a 20 watt panel which seems to be working just fine so i would like to continue using it and add a 60-80 watt panel as well.
Series or Parallel?
Thanks
I'm at the tail end of a campervan project with two panels on the roof, the folks at Half Moon Bay Electrical strongly recommended putting them in series. Feedback they received from customers who had made a change from Parallel to series was that it made a big difference. It was something to do with getting more bang for your buck when the sun was low at either end of the day (don't shoot the messenger, this is just what they advised
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9 hours ago, Ex Machina said:
The boat is almost brand new so quite fortunate it didn’t get chopped up . Saw a photo of it in a marina berth still upside down !
Fist Bump ? are they both saying YES !
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21 hours ago, Priscilla II said:
Talking of Andrew Fagan and Swirly World does anybody have any news about his Pitcairn rescue after rudder failure.
Would definitely be interested in any updates, here is me mildly anxious about taking a 12 ton 38 ft BrickS**t house Hood 38 to Fiji next year and he goes to Pitcairn in a 17 foot Plywood boat, the guy is an absolute inspiration !
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On 13/09/2021 at 8:23 PM, Ex Machina said:
Have been Working with these guys over the last year on a sailing gear range . Have been using the prototypes for a year now and it’s very very good . It does not leak and it does breathe and it is also warm .
At the nailing down the styling stage now so hopefully it will make it to market before the end of the year . Supply chain issues have slowed things down massively .
That's good to hear, no product is perfect but I reckon PVC with modern moisture wicking undergarments would keep you pretty snug and dry in all weather. My first store branded breathable jacket was an absolute joke in moderate to heavy rain even when new, now I have a Gill inshore but I suspect it wont be much better, we will see.
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Contact the author Brian Peet he has plenty of stock or did up until recently , PM me if you want his number.
I have a copy , its superb.
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On 1/02/2022 at 9:04 PM, Vin said:
This is what I am trying to figure out at the moment (hence asking wiser more experienced folks such as yourself).
My definition of a liveabord is full-time cruising spending 90% of time at anchor in beautiful bays while working remotely from a laptop 4 days a week (4g reception around coastal NZ seems good enough to allow this). Of course we'd need to have a good solar power solution for 2 x laptops + fridge, and enough water storage to support a few weeks away from a marina.Which in turn means that I need to look at slightly larger boats with slightly larger tanks and more space for solar panels and batteries. I'm beginning to think that 28 - 30 ft might be a little small, but as we go up in size the price goes up very rapidly. I think that I could find a nice sound H28 for $10k - $20k but a nice sound Stewart 34 (for example) is going to run $30k - $40k.
It's a bit of a conundrum. Go small and go now, or wait until we can get something bigger, more comfortable, that requires less maintenance, and spend the next year or two wishing we were on the water.
I was trying to hit the sweet spot in the middle with the likes of an H28, but I'm questioning myself now (which is a good thing, and the reason for making this thread!)
If you cant afford the step up from 20K to 30k or 40K then I would look hard at the affordability of the proposal because you will quickly burn through the difference in price band on Opex
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On 5/06/2022 at 9:40 PM, alibaba said:
If you want to change the way your boat lies to anchor because say the wind has changed but the waves are still rolling in from another direction, and you don't want the bother of putting down a spare anchor - an oldie showed me a good way a few years ago.
After laying out your anchor and setting it, attach a spare line to the warp/chain and let out about3/4 metres. Take the line to the stern cleat and adust it to pull the stern towards the anchor warp to the degree you want.
Never heard of that one before but it seems like it could work well.
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Brent is good, I have been a customer since I purchased my first keel boat, very helpful and customer focussed. The only other loft I used was Windward Sails, I don't think they are still going but Damn those sails were fast.
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That last one could be Oz
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12 hours ago, CarpeDiem said:
The issue I found when investigating those Wallas oven/stove combos was, apart from the $10,000 price tag, the specific requirements for the chimney.
The outlets have to be 12" above the water line when heeled over and the siphon loop has to be another 12" above that.
This means that on any yacht that heels and periodically dips it's toe rails the unit has to be somehow exhausted up to the top/centre of the cabin top.
Would work great on a launch or a Cat that doesn't suffer from heel.
Not to mention that $10,000 would buy a top of the line Lithium installation.
We looked at those and came close to purchasing one before watching a few videos that compared the time it took to boil water with various options compared. Gas and Induction were hands down the fastest, while the Wallas Stove was comparatively slow, it does have the option of an accessory top that functions as heater but that adds more cost. I think they were about 7K when we looked at them last. With induction most folks just pulled the $100 plug in unit from a storage drawer and sat it on the benchtop in this way there was no bench space permanently occupied by the cooktop.
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8 hours ago, CarpeDiem said:
I have been surprised by how much you might actually need.
On my lithium journey, I purchased a little 10A kwh counter that plugs into the wall socket and so you can plug appliances into that to get the power usage. I also picked up a $69 induction cook top from kmart.
My wife and I cooked our meals on that for a week including boiling the jug for hot drinks.
After a week we'd used only 1.6kWh. So at 12v that's 135Ah +/- ignoring inverter losses which won't be 0.
We didn't extend it to boiling water for the dishes or running a little oven... so not an exhaustive test, but comparable to what we currently have on the boat, as we have no oven...
We're going to do another test with the small oven as well and see where we end up as having an oven on board would be a luxury.
I am currently half way between the decision of do I install a gas locker, bottles and a gas oven, or the electric equivalent...
We are on the lithium journey on a land yacht, our plug n play $90 Harvey Norman induction top draws 2000W at full noise. We are using a 3KW inverter and 320 AH LIFEPO. On lower cook settings which we will generally be using it draws a lot less. In Tests at home it boiled a litre of water in a pot in 1 min 45 seconds. we will also have an 800w Jug and 800w small microwave. Cant be bothered with an oven on the yacht or the van, I'm a lazy cook and I want to leave all that sort of thing behind when on holiday.
Liferaft Stowage Options
in MarineTalk
Posted
Yes, I must admit that had crossed my mind as well, they are awkward puppies at the best of times.