raz88
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Posts posted by raz88
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Just off the start line of the coastal 2022.
Clipper and I will be setting off on it next week in the rni.
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Yep it's got a self adhesive backing. I also went around the edges with this stuff.
https://www.marine-deals.co.nz/vetus-self-adhesive-tape-roll-aluminium-30m?q=Vetus+tape&h=14
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I found the same, however it turned out not too hard to make a decision in the end.
Vybar sounded good, but found sopac so hard to deal with that I gave up.
Foreman insulation have been bought by flectures and seem geared up to sell house lots of batts but couldn't figure out how to sell me 1 sheet of marine insulation.
Had poor feedback/reviews on the burnsco product.
Had a quick look into the dynamat suggested above. it seemed that for marine engine bay installations you should use two of their products laid over each other, which seemed more complex to install and more expensive.
Which really only left vetus from lusty & blundell/marine deals. Looked similar to what i had in the past, had good reviews, and a couple of options on where to buy (with it in stock). So that's what I bought. Ended up with 35mm promech. Was easy to install (on my simple, flat surfaced installation), and seems to work well. Was about $150 for a 600x1m sheet.
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As said by a couple of people above, I've recently bought a stainless one for my yanmar from hdi marine. Haven't fitted yet, but looks better and much cheaper including shipping than oem from the local agent and was here in a week.
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Thanks T. Will give them a ring tomorrow.
Although if there's a lightweight version which does close to the same job it would be preferable.
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Needing to replace a sheet of insulation under my engine box lid which is crumbly and horrible.
Is there a go-to product people would recommend for this?
I see burnsco have this - don't know if anyone has tried it out?
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One thing I've found with rope work is a cheap ceramic knife from aliexpress does a better job and doesn't seem to blunt as quickly as a metal one, particularly on dyneema. Plus they don't rust.
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Probably the best thing to do is to go on Facebook and join the crew finder pages for rnzys and Richmond yacht club. Or the "nz sailing" or "women who sail nz" groups.
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The article says steering damage and taking on water, presumably if taking on water it'll sink rather than drift.
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My read of the article is that they're saying there may be circumstances where you'd favor a regular pfd over/instead of an inflatable. Not to literally wear an additional lifejacket over the top of an inflatable one...
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2 hours ago, Kick Ass said:
But there is no duty payable for an NZ built boat.
Or when we imported one from aus a few years back, on an aus built one. The closer economic relations au/nz treaty means aus built boats also exempt from duty here (gst still applies).
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I agree with psyche, but am concerned about category inspection or pre race safety inspections by clubs if the manufacturer specifies your lifejacket needs pro servicing and you've self serviced it.
The baltic material is still ambiguous. Refers to the ability to self service but that they 'recommend' professional servicing.
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On 8/07/2022 at 12:49 PM, mischief said:
thought this was interesting from YNZ - something to consider (I hadn't) if needing a CAT 3 inspection - getting lifejackets serviced by an agent and needing the service certificate adds cost and complication (no argument from me that you need to be sure its going to work...) but a little more challenging for us in the regions
The servicing of inflatable lifejackets can create some confusion, particularly when a yacht inspector asks for the current service certificate.
The Safety Regulations of Sailing specify that all equipment must be serviced in accordance with the manufacturer's requirements.
Below is a summary of the requirements of the most common lifejackets as at June 2021:
Brand Distributor Service Interval Service Centre name Location Baltic Kiwi Yachting 12 months Safety at Sea Auckland Secumar Kiwi Yachting 24 months Safety at Sea Auckland Spinlock Lusty & Blundell 12 months Lusty & Blundell Auckland Crewsaver Survitec 12 months RFD National Burnsco Burnsco 12 months Self Service or Transport & Marine Tauranga Edge Burnsco 12 months Self Service or Transport & Marine Tauranga Kru Hutchwilco 24 months Wilco Auckland Hutchwilco Hutchwilco 12 months Self service or Wilco Auckland Interested in where this info comes from? Particularly re Baltic, which I have, as the information on the Baltic website says that you should have it serviced each year by an authorized agent OR you can do it yourself.
Is the above from ynz? Or just something collated from what you could find?
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On 28/06/2022 at 10:56 AM, Psyche said:
I'll take a guess that most of the boats only use PHRF for SSANZ, none of the clubs use it for harbour racing.
Need it for coastal too. Not all the boats do both SSANZ and coastal but plenty do.
Not sure about gold cup, maybe need it for that too?
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On 10/04/2022 at 12:35 PM, Jon said:
Not surprised
‘They don’t seem to consider anyone else when they set dates
To be fair, they also don't consider their own races - the last date they tried was during their own 3 kings race.
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On 7/02/2022 at 1:58 PM, Dawie said:
I have never owned a yacht and was wondering if someone could give me some ball park figures for a 32ft (ish) keelboat.
The first few things I could think of was:
1. Cost of hauling a boat on the dry
2. Cost of keeping on the hard for a day.
3. Cost of a survey
4. Cost of re rigging in either SS of dyneema (as I understand this is something that needs to get redone from time to time for insurance.)
5. Cost of insurance for a 20-25k boat
6. Delivery from Auckland to Wellington since looks like most boats are up there.
7. Any big things I should consider.
Not sure that anyone has directly answered the questions so here goes.
1. Between $200 for an hour on the floating dock and $700 for an out, in and clean somewhere like pier 21.
2. $20 - $30ish a day depending where.
3. $1000-2000 depending who, where, what covering etc.
4. Been discussed above, around 3k. Depends if just replacing wire or whether the rigging screws need replacing as well.
5. Ballpark $1000/year but varies depending on risk so where you keep it etc
6. Couple of grand if you can find a friendly delivery crew. Generally done by the day so depends on speed of boat, weather etc. Trucking is worth a look, boat haulage etc do it for surprisingly reasonable prices.
7. Engine, electrics, refrigeration, sail condition, running rigging, deck gear, rot/osmosis... while it can seem tempting to buy something needing work if you have the skills to tidy it up, almost invariably it ends up being more expensive than buying a tidy boat to start with.
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Also consider having the old coating media(soda?) blasted rather than sanding? Might leave you with a better job.
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As per marinhero there were a bunch sold as hull and deck packages and then 'built' by randoms... not sure on the provenance of the one mentioned in the OP though.
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On 21/02/2022 at 9:24 AM, waikiore said:
Of Course Wandering Star won the last Three Kings Race, looking forward to the next one.
Brilliant competed in an early RNI unfortunately lost the skipper overboard.
I was on WS for that.
Did brilliant later become simply brilliant, or are they two different boats?
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Yeah I remember nevenka going over to do the s2h, mid 2000s as mentioned above would be about right. They were racing a lot with ryc and Vera mummery was club president iirc, but they also did a lot with Victoria. We raced our t32 there as well, and there was also sometimes a t34 town fox. Other regulars included the Tercels on their d35 Reotahi and an older lidgard called something like taitua.
In addition to those mentioned above Wandering star (starlight based t32) has done a lot of miles including to Darwin and back.
Tony Kendal (sunlight) is the one to talk to. Ran the owners association for years, organized all the nationals etc. Probably knows more townson history than anyone.
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I've had a soft shackle shake off. Now use insulating tape or velcro as mentioned earlier in the thread and haven't had it happen again.
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2 minutes ago, khayyam said:
I know nothing about the mast placement kerfuffle, other than to say that it sounds like exactly the sort of thing that can really put people off and hurt a class scene.
There was discussion here and other places maybe a couple of years back. Seems to have blown over now. Some of the quickest boats had too long a j measurement. I don't know what the outcome was but nationals and class events have been going ahead so assume it was sorted and people moved on.
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Class still going strong and plenty of them racing with the various clubs etc. Not sure why there's a number for sale at the moment other than that it seems to go in cycles.
Price difference seems to be along the lines of
<35k Non class/poor condition
35-50k In class, reasonable condition, but not the latest gear, not known for being super quick, maybe an original motor etc
50k+ in class and known to be a quick/class winning capable boat. Good sails/engine/electrics.
Of course there are some dreamers who are trying it on that haven't spent the money on their boat but have seen another one for sale for 60k so think they'll have a go at getting that for theirs.
There was also a bit of a wrangle in the class about mast placement in some of the fastest boats as Jon says above. Pay to check with someone from the class association if worried about that.
Other things to check - like all 80s boats they're getting on. If gelcoat is no longer good, or engine/electrics/refrigeration needs replacing then you need to factor in $ for this. Also when I was buying mine people suggested there were always readily available lightly used second hand sails from super competitive boats who replaced theirs every year or so, but what I found was when second hand sails came up they were tired and not good for anything but cruising. So if buying one without a decent wardrobe again factor $ for buying new ones if you want to do a bit of racing (even outside class).
Most have had the mast replaced, and your insurer may want proof of standing rigging replacement in last 10 years.
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Insurance is like a big risk club/cooperative. Say all the keeler owners in westhaven get together and put $1500 a year into a shared bank account. If one of them sinks, the money from the account is used to replace it. If 20 of them sink, there's probably not enough money in the account and the owners have to either put in more money next time or call the whole thing a failure and give up.
Now say a group of trimaran owners get together and do the same thing. Because there's relatively few of them, you don't end up with as much money in your account. You also have less chance of a boat sinking (or flipping) as there are less boats, but if one does, thats all it takes to make the whole thing a failure.
Insurance companies work based on what they know - previous claims. It seems they've learned that in NZ, the risk doesn't make it worth doing. This could be due to a few large claims in the past, or simply due to the fact that without the large numbers (like keelers have) there isn't a bunch of people hardly using their boat but paying into the pot helping prop the figures up.
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Boat in distress of Gt Barrier
in MarineTalk
Posted
It's not just the quote. Dude didn't seem to have a handheld vhf. Randomly jumped into the water in huge seas and 60+ knots with no instruction to do so.
Plus from the article and the info here it seems the boat was secured and he decided to shift it which is how it ended up out there.
Imo he should be up for some sort of fine/sanction based on the fact his idiocy put the lives of his rescuers at risk.