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Jon

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Posts posted by Jon

  1. Sounds like your on the right track Fish but of its still there with the newly serviced prop then get a cup half fill it with water and move it along the drive chain sitting on the hull, where the water wants to jump out the most will tell you where the problem is.

    Or maybe it's been there all along and now you can hear it.

    You should get 10% less revs at full throttle underway than at full revs neutral if your props sized correctly i.e. if your getting 3000 underway you should get 3300 in neutral.

  2. Fish, I've used "CRC Soft Seal" for this type of thing before

    Cheap and easy to apply, just clean it off and spray three or more coats over a couple of hours while your waiting for the tide.

    Had it last a year or more on the shaft but only about 6 months on the blades as they have much more water over them.

    Anyone else used it ?

  3. Harbour regs

     

    Vessels to be identified

    (1) A person must not use a vessel on navigable waters unless it displays a name, consisting of letters the Roman alphabet or numbers that are not the vessel’s brand, make or model, and that is distinct to that vessel.

    (2) Subject to clause (3), this clause does not apply to:

    (a) non-mechanically powered vessels of less than six metres in length; and (B) power driven vessels of less than four metres in length.

    (3) Non-mechanically powered vessels and power driven vessels referred to in subclause (2) must be marked with the current owner’s name and contact details somewhere on the vessel.

    (4) The name, identification mark or number referred to in subclauses (1) must be displayed above the waterline on each side of the vessel by the person in charge of the vessel. The minimum height of the name, identifying mark or identification number is 90 millimetres and it must be legible by day from a distance of at least 50 metres.The

  4. Auckland Council - through AT - through Harbourmasters office also have a bylaw covering this.  You would only come under YNZ if you a) race or B) go offshore.

     

    Hopefully their consistent!

    Doing the cruising Div in the Coastal with family and going offshore agains as soon as I sort work out

     

    Will sus the harbourmaster etc, funny how you can sail 15000nm over halfway around the world and now you want to do something in your own country you now have to jump through hoops.

  5. Nope, YNZ requires name and numbers on the Hull.

    All I can find in the safety regs is must be at least 50mm in height preferably 100mm,

    Thinking name on stern and sail numbers on each side of bow plus name on boom. 

     

    Have Signcorp coming to look at boat tomorrow will try Stanley Signs if need a second option

    Dan from Boat Coat is overseas at present, thanks Herdy

  6. The C&C 34 is the most seaworthy as per your post, though they are getting old.

    But, for single handed you will struggle to find anything easier to sail than the Wright and it's much newer. Not sure about pointing ability though but looks nicely built.

    Track down Alan Wright and have a chat, he lives in Whangapouroa (sp), he's very approachable

  7. I'm lifting Ma'ara in a few weeks to do the antifoul and wanting to replace the stripe above the waterline, it was damaged by the anchor chain up in the Med before we bought her.

    Also want to redo the name etc plus we need sail numbers on the hull.

    Who can you recommend team ?

    Boat will be at Pier 21.

    Also thinking of putting name on both sides of the boom as its a leisure Furl boom and then only having the name on the stern, does this comply with YNZ requirements ?

    image.jpeg

  8. Yes

    Cat 1 part 4

     

    PART IV

    MOTORYACHTS EMBARKING ON OFFSHORE PASSAGES

    BASIC REQUIREMENT (Based On Category 1 Requirements)

    Any vessel venturing offshore shall be of suf ciently robust construction and be of a volume to be able to carry:

    (i) Suf cient fuel in safe tankage, with strong preference for internal tanks.

    (ii) Suf cient stores to make a safe trip.

  9. Hi Jon

    I did some digging and found the following 

    Passport  

     

    Sail Area/Disp.1:

     

     15.24

     

    Bal./Disp.:

     

     37.77%

     

    Disp./Len.:

     

     272.34

    Cavalier 32

     

    Sail Area/Disp.1:

     

     13.91

     

    Bal./Disp.:

     

     50.78%

     

    Disp./Len.:

     

     290.64

    Interpreting these no feels like going into a rabbit hole. The most obvious difference to me is the Bal/Disp. Does  this mean that the cav is a stiffer boat or under canvased by comparison?

    Thank you

    I find Sailboat data is a rough guide to compare yachts of similar size, more difficult a 32' against 40'.

    It's not always accurate either but a starting point.

    Another important thing to consider other than ventilation is stowage, don't limit your search to by a few feet, a 45 footer will have possibly twice the available space of a 40'er.

     

    Plus a watermaker is a no brainer to me, not that you can't do it without but finding reasonably clean water can rule your life in the islands, were as with a watermaker your only limited by your draft and dreams. Sure the more gear you have the more things that can go wrong, but they are a lot better than the early ones now.

    Jon

  10. Another good way to compare yachts is sailboatdata.com

    Here's the Passport 40 http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=2366

    Search your Cav 32 and then start comparing sail area to displacement, ballast/displacement etc

     

    Being able to sail efficiently in light weight tropical air is very different to what you will be used to on the east coast of the SI

     

    But the most important thing is just get a boat and do it.

     

    This is a great boat I know of http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/boats-marine/yachts/keeler/auction-1125790535.htm

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