Vivaldi
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Posts posted by Vivaldi
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2 hours ago, marinheiro said:
That's exactly what James Mobberly recommends, he also suggests using one of the salt removal products, eg Saltaway. Said he was not so keen on Barnacle Buster, has found it is too aggressive and has caused problems with seals, gaskets etc.
He did highlight you need to be using some sort of container to hold the fresh water and let the salt water pump suck it into the engine via a hose to the Tee you mention. Some people have plumbed up direct fresh water hose connections to the downstream side of the salt water pump and this has resulted in flooded engines
Yeah you don’t want to pressurise it. The hose I use has a T fitting just after the tap that allows pressure water to run to waste. The water pump sucks what it needs and the flow can be adjusted with the tap
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On Vivaldi there is a hose fitting on the suction side just after the sea cock for the salt water inlet. We can shut off the salt water side and run fresh through it which is pretty handy for the occasional rinse out.
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Hi - what size human does it fit?
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7 hours ago, B00B00 said:
We had a really fun day on the Rogue II. Was a voyage of discovery for us learning what makes the boat go and what sails we actually have. No idea of the sail crossovers as we hoisted 2 old gennakers we had never seen and a new code zero that we had only checked to see if it fitted so the reach down to the noiseys was a bit painful changing between gennakers and code zero to find something that worked. The guys who had decent small flat gennakers made good gains on this leg. Watched Phil on the deep purple blast past us on that leg like we were standing still! They looked fantastic and rounded the noisies a few hunndred meter in front.
We lead our fleet for the whole race but they were never far behind. After the noisies we when sheeting on and headed upwind we heard a strange banging sound on the hull and thought we had collected a cray pot or something. Couldnt see anything over the side so did a backdown to clear it only to find the noise was actually the gas bottle banging the against the hull as the bungy holder was just loose enough to allow it to lean over and tap the hull from inside the locker. Big loss there but a simple fix and a lesson learnt. The beat back to the finish was great, flat water and 10-15kts with plenty of boats to try and stay ahead of. We played with sail trim and boat settings to find the best mode and made continual improvements in speed and height. Really close finish with the Salona 41 that resulted in a tacking dual for us to hold them off and the bigger elliott tourer Focus also coming at us quickly but we managed to take the win by a boat length. Handicap result was prety deep but overall we were really happy with the day and have a much bigger job list of improvements (and sails to make) to get the best out of the boat.
After party was good and we had a full boatload of people. A few improvements need to be made on the stereo system as we overheated the subwoofer and had to shut it down temporarily to let it cool down. We cant have this happen again as its a real party pooper! Another job for the list...
Is Rouge the ex Margaritaville?
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https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/boats-marine/yachts/keeler/listing/3100155432?bof=XiZV3Dji
Currently on Trademe - some very evasive answers about the boat......
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39 minutes ago, funlovincriminal said:
Early days yet but so far nothing I've found has freaked me out 😅
Farr 1020?
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7 hours ago, Dagwood said:
The official info in NZ is maintained on the New Zealand Resuscitation Council's site. https://www.nzrc.org.nz/
CPR here which still talks of a ratio of 30:2 for compressions to breaths but many organisations suspended the breaths due to COVID and I've heard the same as Wheels - the compressions move an adequate amount of air so if in doubt or on your own - focus on those.
Yip - it’s “thirty to two - no matter who”
compression rates have changed multiple times over the years, but the emphasis is on pushing originated blood around the system. If the blood isn’t moving, then nothing is getting oxygen.
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https://sites.google.com/a/lotus106.com/www/home
a bit about the boat.
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Just spotted the header at the top of the page about IT handing over the baton. Just wanted to say thanks for all the great work over the years. I’m sure the rest of the Crew.Orgers will agree.
cheers
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7 hours ago, Black Panther said:
Wooden plug. I was going to go one size bigger then it should fall out???if I go smaller won't it be difficult to position the the hole saw? Happy to hear advice before I start drilling.
Yeah if you’re just getting rid ofit then the same size or slightly bigger to drill it out - the key is to have something blocking up the hole that the guide bit can drill into to stabilise the hole saw.
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1 hour ago, Black Panther said:
Blocked toilets - if hoses are blocked throw them away and replace. Same for all other components. Not worth the effort trying restore.
And thank you for teaching me a new phrase - full destruction mode. I like that. At the upcoming haulout I need to remove a through hull. I think a hole saw will be easier than spanners and hammers.
If you have a blank for the through hull - or put a wooden plug in and cut it off flush, then you can use a hole saw just slightly smaller than the through hull so you then easily pull out the remainder. Or if the new hole / fitting is going to be slightly larger you can just drill to that size.
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On 17/03/2021 at 8:39 AM, Winter said:
is that haulout prices going up? or berth rates?
Just got this notification from Gulf Harbour:
Please find links below for the 2022 Gulf Harbour Marina Scheme Operating Budget along with the schedule of applicable annual charges for the 2022 year.
As a result of the Manager negotiating a reduction in Council Ground Rent (backdated to 2017), a once-off refund and reduced onward fee has resulted in the 2022 budget seeing a decrease in berth fees of 16.4% over 2021.
The budget does not call for any increase in contributions to MRF over last year’s contributions. Contributions to the MRF have not been increased for several years.
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On 11/03/2021 at 3:17 PM, KM... said:
Talking UHMwPE in general, splicing is preferred as this fibre and knots are knot mates. Tie a bowline in this material and BOOM your strength drops about 50-60% instantly. So given the option splice. But in saying that many use the product not for strength but for their very low to no stretch so if that's what it's about knots make no difference to that. So Mr C you'll need to suss how much strength you need verse the size of line. If the required strength is pushing the lines break load then splice, if there is a big gap then tieing a knot is fine.
Notes:
UHMwPE = Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene
Spectra and Dyneema are brand names of a UHMwPE fibre made by Honeywell (some by Toyobo in Japan) and Royal DSM respectively. They are big in NZ as we are a tiny country so one or 2 players can dominate which closes the door to other options like Tokilon which is made by a mob called Mitsi thingy whotsit. These are all manufacturing very good constantly improving fibres.
Under those brand names we get rope manufacturer ones like the most well known Dynex, now called Dynice as they lost a court case over who owned the name. Then there is Armare with Superround, Speedplus and a few other variations, Marlow with D12 and a few others, Fineline with Advantage, Samson with a shed load. These are ropes made using assorted UHMwPE's, many being dyneema or spectra but some using what we call 'Chineema', chinese made UHMwPE's.
Some Chineemas are fine, some a bit iffy, some utter and complete sh*t likely to kill you. In the 4x4 game many are having dyneema bust as low loads...errr, hello, you've been sold Chineema dude. Generally in the rope game reputable manufacturers will use reputable Chineemas. But we have rope manufacturers selling Chineema as Dyneema, to us that is a sign of if they are going to 'fudge' the materials what else are they willing to fudge.
These UHMwPE ropes are Class 2 ropes. Std polyester double braids are Class 1 ropes.
You can splice bog std Polyester using a Class 2 splice perfectly fine, fiddler than a Class 1 but will work.
DO NOT splice a Class 2 rope using a Class 1 splice, all that does it totally negate any and all goodness the fancy core has. It also means you've just waste a shed load of coin.
What are class 1 and class 2 splices? Is it different techniques?
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3 hours ago, Black Panther said:
My wife drives a Suzuki Swift, so wondering exactly what is wrong with it?,?
No offence intended. It’s just a bit of a joke I have calling them Suzuki police or Kia police as they are often driving down the Hutt highway side by side at 90k with a big line of cars behind them. Making sure everyone is obeying the law.
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14 hours ago, KM... said:
How many Skodas did it take and did the dealer do you a deal?
It must have been damn handy being able to drive that medium to the site considering you'd not get many in your boot
Ha!😀 yeah - good old predictive text.....
most Skodas should be blasted though - along with the Suzuki swift’s, Demeos,and the Kia police 👍 - buts another thread I think
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This was the information given to me by the Altex paint rep on scraping or sodablasting back to the gel coat:
If the scrapping method of removal is chosen and once all of the old antifouling has been removed it will leave a shiney finish on the grey primer undercoat, this must be removed , and we recommend machine sanding with 80 grit dry paper. This will remove the shine and yield a coarse surface texture for the new paint system to adhere.
· Once the sanding is complete, remove all of the sanding dust, a wipe over with a damp cloth that has been dampened with fresh clean water. Wipe down so the surface is dust free and then allow to dry.
· If any hull damage has occurred from the scrapper, or there is damage from other means spot fill these areas with two pack Epoxy filler, allow to cure over night, then sand flush with the surrounding surface and again dust off.
· Once all of the surface preparation is complete, and the existing grey primer / undercoat has no adhesion issues, proceed with the mew paint system application. Mask along the water line with plastic masking tape if working outside.
· Then by roller apply one full coat of No 1 epoxy primer mixed 4 to 1 with its converter, once mixed up to 5 % No 12 thinner can be added to aid roller application. The practical coverage rate is approx 4.3 M 2 per mixed litre. Brush will be required to gain access in some locations, EG, skin fitting internals etc.
· As soon as you can leave a thumb print in the No 1 epoxy primer ( 1 to 2 hours ) apply the first of two coats of No 5 Ablative Copper based antifouling colour Sea Green again by roller at 4.5 M 2 per litre per coat. Up to 5 % No 12 thinner can used in hot weather.
· Allow the first coat of No 5 antifouling to dry overnight or longer, before appling the second coat at the same coverage rate. We suggest a third coat is applied to the Rudder, Keel, down the stem , around the waterline down about 350 to 400 mm and above the propeller.
· A small brush will be need to apply the antifouling inside the skin fittings and other areas where a roller is unable to be used. Continue to stir the can to keep the ingredients in suspension. 180 to 200 microns of dry antifouling film build is required.
· Once the new paint system has been applied allow at least 24 to 48 hours drying so the paint film dries hard and solvent free, this yields the best antifouling performance.
hope that helps. We took the Carpenter 29 back with Skoda blasting - worked really well.
cheersPaul
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Exactly. If you think about what countries and sponsors spend on their athletes, and the cost of hosting the Olympics, it would make the 100m sprints pretty expensive.
so working out cost per race is a bit of a pointless observation really -
1 hour ago, tuffyluffy said:
I think youre about right.
I saw it quoted somewhere it cost them $10M per race which is $500k per minute for a 20 min race.
Its quite a vulgar amount of cash when you think about it
The thing is that it’s not a ‘this or that’ issue. The rich elite that fund these teams do it because of the challenge that the Americas cup brings, but it’s not as though they choose to yacht race instead of investing the money in public services or social needs, if they weren’t racing they would just keep the money to invest in their business to make more money.
so I figure that we may as well just enjoy the show.-
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16 hours ago, harrytom said:
Do these guys have different rules to normal rules?? UK being on port last leg yet italy seem to alter course to leeward? I always thought you must hold course.
Well done team UK. Close racing I have seen might start to get more interest in these yachts now.
Yes you are allowed to ‘hunt’ in match racing, so bearing down to leeward to seek a penalty is allowed. They just weren’t close enough really.
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On 8/01/2021 at 9:26 AM, wheels said:
You must have the one for the northern Hemisphere 😁
I have one of these. So I assume the House Bank is on 1.
Does it come up with an error code? ie E 12 or 13 would mean the sense wires on bank 1 or 2 are OC respectively. Lo Batt = Batt more than 50% of declared capacity of EITHER Batt 1 or 2. So check the start Batt as well.
Try powering off and on again. Failing that, check the discharge floor setting for that bank. Do you have the manual?? I don't know why that would change, but??......Normally you have it set to 50%. Yes I do see the voltage at 29.05, so if the discharge floor has altered, it has been some kind of glitch. Hence the first idea of power off/on. Setting the discharge floor is F13
Failing all that, a reset may be required. If you have the manual, it is explained how to do this. If you don't, let me know and I can talk you through by posting the instructionsSo Yesterday I put it through an equalisation charge, and then reset the amps to zero. LoBat indication has gone and it seems to all be working okay.
thanks Wheels. -
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Thanks Wheels - I’ll try those things
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Hmm - got me photo upside down. It is installed right way up though 😀👍
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Does anyone know much about these? Mine is monitoring a 24v house bank, plus a separate 12v bank, but it’s been flashing ‘LowBat’ just to the left of the voltage reading ever since the first cycle after coming off shore power. Back on shore power now ant both banks charging up - but still flashing LowBat.
First boat advice ... again
in MarineTalk
Posted
Had you eased the sheet and the vang before trying to lower your main to the reef?