180S
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Posts posted by 180S
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I was dead keen to get a Gori when I repropped my Volvo D18 on a 5t yacht, they are a work engineering beauty to lust over.
Problem was I didn't want to change the 1" shaft and they were super heavy compared to the Bri-ski geared folding prop. Gave me concerns about the load on the shaft bearings/balancing so ended up with the Briski and the sideways walk that goes with it , but I'm a yacht and prefer the sails anyway.
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Have some Dutch influence from my wife, and with Burling onboard and the home port advantage it would have to be Brunel.
It has been such fantastic coverage with the drones onboard, watching those boats flying thru the Southern ocean has been a treat.
Go Yellow !
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that's a great clip thanks for the URL Priscilla
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"since the distance out of the magnet doesnt matter "
guess it depends on the sensor and how much distance, Try this
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I have been traveling down the DIY dodger route.
Have tried making a copy from the unpicked original; didnt work like i wanted, the material is too stretched/warped to make a good pattern.
Tried buying local, but couldnt find a single source of supply ie sunbrella,PTFE thread,pattern material,windows etc.
Ended up going to Sailrite as they have all the supplies including a fantastic resource for learning videos and even with gst and shipping cost no more than buying local.
The problem locally is suppliers like TopFab who distribute the sunbrella is a distributer and do not sell direct. So it all has middlemen , taking their cut, fair enough I guess but it pushes the cost up and no single source of supply and knowledge.
I can go to sailrite and get precisely what I need and delivered inside 2 weeks.
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I have used Warpaint for the past 10 years. Previously used Altex #5 which I was applying with roller.
I would get some barnacle/growths with the Altex but usually just have to deal with the slime with the Warpaint.
Biggest difference gained was by changing application to getting it professionally sprayed, much better endurance with just having to give a 6 monthly waterblast and will last 2-3 years.
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Wind shifts I think. Boat speeds are very similar. Will be interesting in higher wind speeds though. Think we have a boat race on our hands.
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For those interested the specs for the panel SN-H50W ETFE cover with a controller.
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"where are you planning on getting the Genasun"
Was planning on buying them ,GV-4-PB-12v , online, couldn't find a source for them in NZ, but given the info above might call BEP? And see if they can point me in the right direction.
I hear you Wheels, but all the same I like the idea of x2 discreet systems, redundancy,relative comparison etc.
Initially I plan to put a single 50W on the companionway hatch cover and see how it goes, then move on from there. As I am sourcing the panel from China I plan on getting x2 giving allowance for quality.
I will certainly have a play around.
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Good point, but I' m looking at x2 50W panels, if one is at 14.4v and 4A, I'm not fussed about missing the other 4A, as they are positioned alternate sides is unlikely to both be at full power anyways. Goal is to try and get a consistent 4A.
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May be a bit of a thread drift from the original thread, but as I' m in full research of solar panels I plan to use a Genasun controller on each panel. Chosen for the lowest possible night current draw 0.9mA and a reputation of having the lowest electrical noise generation of mppt controllers on the market. With regards to 1 controller or one on each; If one controller is putting out enough to close the 2nd controller down , then I'm not worried of getting every last amp.
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I have a Simrad TP32 which has the Hall Effect transducer coupled at the end of the shaft.
It's the only part that has failed, had to replace it twice.
Service Manual here
for any interested
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Yahoo --- favourable winds all the way home. Go Conrad Go
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Have been watching his VMG figures, 0.8 at the moment, assuming that means he is making .8knts towards his destination with 289nm to go , that's another 15days , hope he's got a fishing line or at least some old school hemp rope .
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Go Conrad -- Inspirational
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The problem I found was the depth and cut of a genoa/#1/etc are designed for sailing in a specific wind direction and strength. Rolling a genoa into a #2 type size gives you a baggy #2 which can't be flattened. With a big roll on the luff that you can't point high, I would end up doing such broad tacks with -VMG, going nowhere. The best I could manage would be a broad reach and in a rising sea most uncomfortable; add a lee shore I'd have to drop it all and use the motor. Motoring in a heaving sea in my fat arsed Spencer is something to be avoided.
The other issue is the material weight of the sail. A genoa is essentially a downwind sail and light weight. But if the sail is to be a furler and shortened and sheeted in hard then it will need to be heavier weight, a big compromise for those light air conditions that the genoa wants to work in.
Having said all that and as you point out, lots of furlers out there. I'm sure modern sail design can compromise on all that and produce a useful furled headsail. Best to talk to a sailmaker who will be able to advise.
Certainly as a solo sailor I tend to be conservative in my choice of sail , especially in gusty conditions, and keep a good weather watch so I can change sail early. Keeps me fit LOL
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I have a Spencer 30 that came with a very similar furler as the Alado mentioned, loaded with a #1 head sail. Almost impossible (by your self) to change out, and absolutely useless when partially furled. With no knife edge on the luff and a bit baggy, when the wind got up I struggled.
Finally bit the bullet and removed the furler and bought a hanked yankee #2 high cut. Fantastic sail for the solo sailor, can be flattened up to 25kn before I need to drop down to a #3. Plus the bonus of the high cut gives great visibility.
I can see the advantage of a code 0 type furler, where the sail is furled and the complete assembly is removed, but the Alado type furler will require you to run a bolt rope up I think which is considerably more difficult than hanks.
Anyway, not trying to talk you out of your project, just sharing my experience.
Cheers
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I had a similiar experience with a whine in a Volvo D1-18 WITH MS10a gearbox.
Funny thing was it didn't whine in reverse. After a bit of investigation found out there is a idler shaft/gear dropped in to reverse rotation and the prop had the incorrect hand. Replace the prop with the correct hand and only have the whine in reverse now.
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I have a Lowrance 520c CP talking to a Nexus Server(wind,log,compass)with a Simrad TP32 AP utilising the 0183 between CP and Nexus and the 2000 between CP and AP. All works well with the AP controlled by the Nexus steer to wind I.e. Nexus>0183>CP>2000>AP.
The only issue to watch for on the 0183 network in the nexus is a differential circuit ( Tx +/- Rx +/-)whereas the CP is single ended(Tx+ common- Rx+) ?
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/UniversalNMEA0183.html
Gives a hookup guide.
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Wire twisting and controller shielding both hide from the real issue of controller waveform radiation. Better to go back to the supplier and make it their responsibility to come up with a fix. Is not too difficult on a tech bench to suppress spurious radiation.
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One of the principal pleasures I get from sailing is to leave behind the laws imposed that "are for my own good", justified by any number of reasons.
On the water is one of the last places where I am master of my own fate , answerable to the wind/weather/boat state.
On no account do I want to relinquish that.
The same sort of thinking "for the common good" has been used by many tyrants to justify there right to legislate.
My 2c worth.
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How about an Epoxy Putty ?
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We'll I guess it depends on what the 3 bolts are holding.
Seatalk1 to Seatalk NG/ nmea2000
in TechTalk
Posted
Is there adifference in the loads I seem to remember I had to remove one of the end loads off the Nmea2000 net because the AP (TP32 ) was internally loaded ?