Fogg
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Posts posted by Fogg
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On 15/02/2021 at 7:45 AM, splashprincess said:
Not local (a Norwegian sailing in the North Atlantic) but this guy shoots amazing video:
https://www.youtube.com/user/kjolevannspumpe
Erik Aanderaa is a solo sailor, and these videos have amazing scenery and are incredibly well filmed and edited. Now I want to go visit the Faroe Islands!
Yup this guy is standout and my favourite by far. In his own words "Saving you from more snorkeling and bikinis in the Caribbean".
I'm going to buy a NBJS t-shirt in fact!
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3 hours ago, marinheiro said:
Being a little pedantic, Gypsy Moth IV was designed by Illingworth and Primrose, Angus being very much the junior member of the partnership at the time. Chichester was very critical about the yacht, however Illingworth provides alot of detail in his fine book "Further Offshore" of all the requirements of Chichester's which lead to a rather compromised design.
John Illingworth pushed UK offshore racing to a new level, and was an active campaigner with his Malham series of yachts. Myth of Malham won just about everything possible in her day in the northern hemisphere. He was also the instigator and first winner of the Sydney Hobart race in 1945.
Yes fair point I’d forgotten how critical Chichester was of sone aspects of heavy weather performance. But to be fair it was an early design and the later efforts with Moody, for example, were undoubtedly very successful. You can even see some hints of early Moodys in this Challenger.
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3 hours ago, muzled said:
Did you go up and view it before you bought it Fogg? Interested in how difficult it was to get a good survey and get it home etc. Assume you shipped it home?
No I couldn’t view it - was right in the middle of Covid for NZ and everyone else in that region. A few WhatsApp video calls helped give more comfort of the reality behind the brochure pics but buying sight unseen was still obviously a risk but in our view worth it to get the boat we knew we wanted. It took several weeks from initial online viewing to find and arrange survey, delivery skipper, shipping to NZ, insurance etc etc. Was a full-on project to manage (I didn’t use a NZ agent / broker to source the boat and arrange logistics I did that all myself). I only used a NZ clearing agent to help as Fogg came off the cargo ship in Auckland. End to end took several months.
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1 minute ago, Steve Pope said:
There are quite a few yachts "stranded" around NZ with their overseas owners unable to come to nz tosail them away.
Same story all around the world. That’s how I bought my current boat (it was in Langkawi and owner in China unable to get to it).
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Yes despite overseas owner it’s in NZ and no more tax to pay. It’s a lovely boat but not a trendy one. I think it’s here at GH - if I spot it I’ll let you know. Based on what I’ve seen of similar era & style boats over the last few months, if it was me I would open negs around $70k and expect to close by $75k max.
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They are great boats,Wheels. Remember Primrose designed Sir Francis Chichester’s rtw boat “Gypsy Moth”. Also a bunch of early Moody designs (another bullet proof top quality marque). And I think the Challenger shares the same hull design as Voyager which are also highly capable, widely travelled yachts.
Go raid the piggy bank..
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Yes MNZ can investigate any incident commercial or private. My neighbour was once on the receiving end of a prickly MNZ investigation after telling his fellow drinking buddies in the yacht club about hitting the bricks the previous weekend. He suspects one of his race rivals dobbed him in - and it worked MNZ spring into action. Make of that what you will.
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Yes I’m happy with the look but the reality of cleaning to avoid looking scruffy might become tiresome. It’s Vivid White.
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On 12/02/2021 at 8:28 PM, Tamure said:
a tie coat primer is a vinyl paint that seals the old af, sometimes different af’s just don’t mix
I think that’s what was used in my case. And I wanted to chsnge from black antifoul to white - I think the tie coat / barrier was a silvery grey colour then the white AF went on. Early days but v happy so far!
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Yes put on a primer before the AF. I had same situation recently (painting over an unknown AF) and they said use it as a barrier coat first (not sure if it was technically a barrier though).
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Just to close this out (for now) I’ve now obtained the apparently better 90W GL4 oil so I’m going to give that a try and see if it improves my luck. I’ll report back in 300-500 hrs (hopefully) 😊
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Thanks. I’ve now secured the Mercury / Quicksilver 90W GL4 so I’ll drain the SD and replace shortly.
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Approx. 30m x 10mm galvanised. Age & usage history unknown but I found it on my boat in a locker - looks in reasonable condition.
Retails new $20pm (eg at Burnsco). So make me an offer via PM if interested.
If you’re not happy when you pick up then deal off no probs. It’s at Gulf Harbour but I can bring into Auck for pick-up.
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I’ve now discovered that the most widely used by happy Yanmar SF owners seems to be Quicksilver but they do 2 versions of their 80-90 oil, GL4 and GL5. I’m now trying to source the GL4 version:
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The link I posted above is a long thread with some great info but here are a couple of example comments from others' experiences (and why I'm seriously considering ignoring Yanmar's ambiguous advice that GL4 or GL5 oil is OK):
"My own experience with our SD-50 was a unit that failed in just 2 years when using their recommended synthetic GL-5 oil. The replacement [GL4 spec] is still working just fine 11 years and thousands of hours and a second owner later.
It just needed the correct oil.""[Yanmar] They actually specify either a Gl4 or a Gl-5 oil. 500 hours is about what we got using Gl-5.
Never had another issue once we switched [to GL4]. I’d pull the cone at 600 hours and couldn’t tell it from a new one once we switched.
It was not my first time finding this Gl-4/Gl-5 confusion by a major manufacturer. I was in the automotive industry and a lot of major manufacturers had the same issue. It appears to be pretty well understood these days.""You are correct if you have an SD-50T, that sail drive uses a cone that is coated with a sintered finish that protects it from the GL-5.
My guess is that in the case of the larger engine/higher torque output they are concerned with wear in the gears in the lower unit. The GL-5 would be of benefit there.
If the cone is not a coated cone, don’t even think about the GL-5.
Our SD-50 had a sticker that was obviously attached during its manufacture that specified GL-4/GL-5." -
This is why this might be one of those rare situations when you don't want to follow the manufacturer's recommendations:
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On 10/02/2021 at 9:25 AM, Bad Kitty said:
Yep we're running that mod. It's helps, but doesn't overcome the inherently sh*t design.
What oil were / are you using in your SD50s? I’m trying to make best selection and I gather it’s not necessarily Yanmar’s recommendation which is either GL4 or GL5 - which are both quite different and not normally interchangeable. I understand users of GL5 with trashed SD50s have reported no problems since switching to GL4.
A real quagmire of conflicting tech advice around these units inc from Yanmar themselves...
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Trying to ID best options available in NZ for saildrive and specifically if they are API rating GL4 or GL5. I want GL4.
I think Volvo 80-90 is GL5 but I can’t work out if Quicksilver is GL4 or 5.
Any advice on SAE80-90 GL4 gear oils in NZ?
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+ what about New Cal? Prices might be steeper but possibly better fleet?
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Friends have enjoyed Cook Is bare boat charters a few years ago but unsure of current fleet condition.
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Ok good ideas I’ll see how much space I have above it. How much higher do you think it needs to go?
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My last impeller lasted about 30hrs.
I reckon the pump is at least 500mm above the waterline.
It’s a Cummins Onan genset which is generally well regarded but suffers from poor installation by many production boat factories. Other Jeanneau owners report same problem with their gensets chewing through impellers due to running dry for first few seconds.
And so many have made changes to installation such as:
1. Different brand impellers (Jabsco not Sherwood apparently last longest)
2. Add non-return valve
3. Add electric pump which activates during the 5-8s priming period when you press the start button before genset actually turns over. Which helps get the impeller wet in advance.
For sure I might have old impeller fragments causing issues which need removal. But I think there is also an installation issue that needs addressing and adding a non-return valve is reported to make a difference by other owners with same problem.
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Anyone know who services / fixes Cruisair A/C systems around Auckland / GH?
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1 hour ago, Bad Kitty said:
Yep we're running that mod. It's helps, but doesn't overcome the inherently sh*t design.
Right ok so you’ve got that upgrade.
It sounds like the early SD60s also had a design flaw but then Yanmar finally recognised the problem and made a change so the latest SD60s are different / better?
Identify this prop
in TechTalk
Posted
Looks a lot like the old Gori I had on AC many years ago. Was ok in flat water but lost traction in a headwind and lacked bite in reverse - needed lots of revs to stop / reverse boat. I would say there are better options out there these days for folding / feathering props...