Fogg
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Posts posted by Fogg
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Have you looked closely at the upgrade kit and what it does to apparently mitigate the SD40/50 problem?
Also the choice of lubricant apparently makes a huge difference.
I’m still learning about this issue myself but this kind of info is interesting me:
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Vetus are widely used. Not perfect but work well if you add a touch of vaseline to the big o-ring inside the transparent top cap when you screw it back on. I’ve had them on all my boats fine.
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I want to install a non-return valve in the seawater pipe between though-hull valve and raw water pump/impeller on my genset. Purpose being to avoid pump/impeller running dry for first few seconds each time I start genset - which is reducing impeller lifespan.
Anyone else done this? And does it make any difference where in the pipe I install the non-return valve? High up close to pump or low down near through-hull? There’s a Vetus strainer in the system so my instinct is to install above that to avoid any leakage back through that (I know they are prone).
And finally what’s the best non-return valve to fit and where to buy?
Thanks
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I’ve just had clutch cone issues with my SD50 (which affects SD40s the same way). My understanding is that the upgrade kit addresses the majority of the issues (slipping cones and oil seal expansion etc).
Also I understand a move to SD60 is a popular option - a fundamentally better clutch system but it requires some boatbuilding work as the mounts are different.
Like you I like Yanmar engines and have several over the years with had good experience apart from this SD50 issue. My plan is to do the SD40/50 upgrade and see how well that lasts - and then probably change to SD60 medium term.
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Will let you know how the 3D printing trial turns out...
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Yeah that’s been suggested and offered actually! Might well try it.
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This is the brand new product - I just installed it to replace my previous sun-damaged unit. The new product doesn’t come with any cover!
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Anyone know of an after-market suncover that fits this unit nicely (controller switch 318200 to be precise)?
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Pre-Covid I travelled to Japan for business every 6-8 wks. Their culture of personal pride in health & appearance is part of the story.
But just in case Big Mac culture threatens the traditional alleyway food scene, new anti-obesity laws are a further incentive to prevent ‘lazy corporate guy’ growing a waist size of >34 inches (or something like that) and women similar.
Imagine the backlash here in NZ if employers had to monitor their staff’s BMI and pay more tax for having fat workers. True story.
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2 hours ago, aardvarkash10 said:
An error of interpretation - read my second sentence without assuming a comma after the words "healthy" and "unhealthy".
The fact is, we are unhealthy because of reasons far removed from and beyond our access to seafood. The Japanese are healthy, but not because of their seafood access.
We both share abundant access to seafood but for cultural reasons we have almost diametrically opposed health outcomes. Medical science ranks Japan as one of the healthiest nations on earth (indeed Okinawa is one of the world’s 5 Blue Zones and a rich seafood diet is a scientifically proven direct contributory factor - not just the eating but even the hunter-gather lifestyle plays a part apparently).
In contrast we obviously have a different cultural relationship with food in NZ which is a shame because the benefits of our abundant access to seafood - in the shops or directly hunter-gathering ourselves - seems to be washed away by other lifestyle factors. What a sad wasted opportunity - sad for both the depleted fish stocks and the bulging waistlines.
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3 hours ago, aardvarkash10 said:
A coincidental relationship is not causal one.
We are not unhealthy because we have depleted our seafood resources, and the Japanese are not healthy because of theirs.
Well done. In one sentence you have quite spectacularly:
1. Conflated 2 issues
2. Turned the words around 180 degrees
3. And turned a true statement into a factual error
I couldn’t have achieved that if I’d tried it - this might be some kind of record. Well done!!! 👏
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This is such a paradox to me. For such a sparsely populated island nation we have spectacularly decimated our seafood resource. And in return we are one of the unhealthiest (read “obese / overweight”) nations in the developed world.
Other countries that have such a close affinity with the sea - like the Japanese - are some of the world’s healthiest.
WTF?!
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18 hours ago, lateral said:
Tried that once. The Kanzaki KM3P locked up and wouldn't go back to neutral.
I was contemplating a solenoid lockup that unlocks when key is on, except I use key off/on to reset external regulator.
I had that once but the engine still started quite happily with it in engaged in slow astern - whereupon it immediately released and returned to neutral as normal.
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This time of year especially with direct sun on the screen yes b hot. My last Raymarine Axiom Pro screen actually went into hibernation if it got too hot with direct sun on it for a couple of hours.
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Hah! Gust Buster is a Raven 31 that I used to race on out of the Weiti about 15+ yrs ago.
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Sherpa spotted in MoW. A few secs earlier it was in the vertical ‘victory’ position. Can’t accuse them of lack of planning... just in case it continues to go well for Ineos...
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2 hours ago, vic008 said:
So, be registered with MNZ. (and no need for number carved in beam,) and get cat 1 from YNZ(no need to be on their register)and good to go.
Yes. Although technically once you have been issued with the Maritime NZ registration number you are supposed to display it somewhere visible on your hull - they define font size and other details when they send you your registration. Also, there are 2 registration options Part A and B. A is for commercial vessels but for a private vessel seeking registration simply for offshore purposes you only need Part B - which is about $500 from memory (A is about $3-5k I think depending on your size).
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Overseas trips is really the main advantage - or if you’re selling the boat to someone contemplating it. Clutching at straws the only other ‘advantage’ is that as a registered Maritime NZ vessel you officially qualify for protection by NZ navy vessels (or their allies) if you ever needed it. Maybe piracy issues if you were travelling - but again you’d need the number anyway to depart!
I have NZ registration for a slightly different reason - mainly because it made it much easier to explain to Malaysian officials why Fogg was being sailed through a restricted area and loaded onto a cargo ship for export to NZ - during a lockdown period in that region. By having NZ registration paper it made Fogg qualify as commercial traffic not pleasure traffic - thereby allowing my delivery crew free passage both during the delivery and on their journey back home. Lots of triplicate papers + lots of official stamps + lots of fees (you get the picture)!
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I’ve had multiple issues with 2nd alternators (inc Balmar) mounted on Yanmars primarily due to misalignment - which leads to all sorts of problems. If you’re getting a 2nd one mounted make sure it is confirmed 100% aligned and don’t muck about with v-belts (even good quality doubles) just go straight for a serpentine.
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Yes you have to be really careful around that point. And the problem I’ve found there (and other similar spots) is that over-familiarisation over many years can easily leave to over-complacency. Not saying that’s what happened here but I know I’ve given myself a few ‘wake up calls’ over the years despite being in home waters! 😳
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On 12/01/2021 at 7:26 PM, Salinesolution said:
Hey I’ve got a kero 3 burner stove top with an oven. As well as a bag full of spare tips, bowls and all in clueing manual. I’ll try and get to my storage and photo it if your interested.
Thanks - see PM.
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What are my options here (apart from trashing the thing)? Obviously not a new puncture. How would I repair a repair?
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Problem solved temporarily (although like many temp solutions it might end up lasting a while). A friend had an adaptor that fits perfectly into the 1 in valve and even has an o-ring on it to improve the seal. At the other end I taped it tightly to the end of paddleboard pump hose and it works (for now)!
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Thanks guys. Yes the valve cap is missing which might be contributing to deflation so if I can replace that, that would be a bonus.
I might well order from those links CP - the only issue is time for delivery of parts. And right now we’re hoping to finish the ‘must do’ to-do list tomorrow so we can actually depart for our maiden voyage on 6th Jan - we’ve spent the entire last 2 weeks since the boat arrived sitting on the hardstand / marina getting things ship-shape and the dinghy is one of the last things I need to solve before we can go - which will improve the family mood significantly! 😊
Damn!!
in TechTalk
Posted
I’ve had Gori and Volvo both with issues. My latest Maxprop has impressed me - lots of bite fwd and reverse and minimal propwalk.