DoT
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Posts posted by DoT
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With a hard dinghy it's not just the gunwhale, but also the chines and corners that could hit the boat, particularly if you have a scoop stern.
My solution is a 12 foot fibreglass surf casting rod ($50 from the Warehouse), a few metres of 4mm polyester, and a hook (part of a shackle).
The rod is wedged in a rod holder on the pushpit and extends about 8 feet aft. The rope loop goes from where the reel would mount, out through the eyelets, down to the hook, and then has a nice loose retrieval loop back to where the reel would mount.
To use it I retrieve the hook using the retrieval loop, hook the rope to some part of the dinghy and let it go. The length of the line and so on is set so that it all holds the dinghy away from the boat at rest. It even works towing if the lengths of rod, painter and rope are right.
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Chameleon nesting dinghy. But you'd have to build it yourself. They're ply, but pretty sure there is a thread where someone had one welded up out of aluminium.
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23 hours ago, Fish said:
The thing with the fanny worm, is the river is infested with it. Go for a paddle at dead low tide, the zone 1-2m below low water is just a carpet of the stuff. So I'm buggered what the benefit is of hauling out to remove a handful of fan worm is when I probably stand on 10 times as many launching the dinghy... Focus should on keep the hull clean of them so I don't spread them around in my travels. Silly rule.
Which of course begs the question: How did it get there? Not many container ships come up the Weiti...
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..... until they aren't?
I'm not weighing in one way or the other - I think the reality is that well engineered windows could be an adequate solution, but they could also be a potential dire weakness. And whether a shattered window would pose a material risk to life would depend on the individual vessel.
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Do you have a single window larger than 1852 square cm?
I'm guessing your middle window is close but deliberately under this size.
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Thanks. Makes sense.
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Not intending to do anything at the moment.
I don't think there would be enough clearance for needle roller bearings. The plastic bearings are long (approx 200mm each) but thin walled (perhaps 3-4mm).
So staying as it is.
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I've hauled out there today.
Passing ORAMS on the way - not a single "normal" yacht on the hard, and only 3 "normal" launches. They seem to only be interested in hauling superyachts now they have their 800T travel hoist.
Pier 21 was pretty quiet too, but plenty of mid sized yachts and launches with work going on.
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Dropped the rudder out today.
As best I can measure with digital calipers there's less than 0.1mm of difference between shaft and bearings. The ID of the bearing sleeves in the rudder tube varies between 73.95mm and 74.05mm. The OD of the rudder stock varies between 73.95 and 73.98.
With such small clearance I'm intending to just clean out the old grease and reinstall.
Any reason to do anything else?
Logan
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Pretty sure that once you're on your boat you don't have to dodge pedestrians or cyclists. And quite a few of us with boats in the water at westhaven go to an from by foot or bike.
But I agree - it keeps getting harder and more expensive to keep a boat suitable for cruising the gulf - and losing another local hardstand would be a real challenge.
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Several copies of the book are available through Auckland library.
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I'm hauling out next week at Pier 21.
Does anyone have a recommendation for an engineer close by to replace rudder bearings?
Boat is a Farr 1020. I think the bearings are plastic bushes.
Cheers in advance.
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How do you identify Alltex #3?
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I like starting before the larger boats and seeing them sail through.
Bad air can often be more than made up by a push from their wake.
The gold cup races place everyone on the same start line. That can get properly exciting.
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9 hours ago, harrytom said:
Agree.something needs to happen now but the issue for me.will this set a precedent and other Iwi closing areas off with no consultation what's next ? Local beach locked off for Iwi use only
I think you'll find that a rahui INCLUDES prohibition on iwi use. In fact I'd say they are more likely to observe it than your average reactionary pakeha.....
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I have an excel.
Only time I've had it not bite immediately is ocean side of motuihe. I suspect there is exposed rock shelf in close in some places. Anchor wouldn't bite so we picked up and moved out a couple of lengths. Another boat dropped in the same spot 1/2 hour later and had exactly the same result.
Some locations just have dodgy holding in some places - loose stones, smooth rock shelves, deep soupy mud....
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Unless I am mistaken, the only NZ government charges in that lot are: "MPI BACC processing fee", "Customs clearance" and "Customs compliance", but it's not even clear if those are the customs charges or admin charges by the shipper.
If you could buy the anchor direct, you would pay the same charges: it is expensive enough to attract GST, and the shipper pays all the other charges, so it would be included in your courier cost.
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19 hours ago, Fogg said:
That’s a lot of animosity & resentment in the world these days isn’t there?!
You're right. People don't like being told that their activities are destructive. They get angry when I suggest that an Amarok or Prado is not a sensible choice for dropping kids to school or commuting to work. They unfriend me when I point out that quick holidays to Europe were a luxury that the planet can no longer afford. And cyclists going about their business are a target for their hate.
The wealthy and entitled don't like to be reminded of their impact on the world. I assume that was your point?
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...cause there was never a tsunami warning under a national government....?
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3 hours ago, Fish said:
What is the apparent wrongness of Dr Zeuss? That is far too woke for me to understand why that would be banned?
Depiction of Africans in some books is not great.
And they haven't been "banned". The estate of the author has withdrawn 6 of the books from sale. Their initiative, their choice.
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On 26/02/2021 at 11:13 AM, wheels said:
It was a long time back and the exact figures would be a bit fuzzy now. I may have the 27kts part wrong.
His was a Bayliner 3388.
Mine has the Perkins 6.354 engine. Usual consumption was around 10lt/hr if I remained conservative with speed. But that figure would climb fast if I pushed it.The Bayliner is 33 foot and displaces 7 tons, versus your girl at ????
This for sale listing has a Bayline with twin cummins 155 hp diesels using 28L of diesel at cruising speed of 10kt and gives a max speed of 15kt.
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Your diesel engine is governed - you set the RPM and the governor controls the fuel to match.
Your fuel use at idle ("no load") without the alternator charging, represents some sort of base friction in the system - the amount of energy needed to keep the engine turning over. This "wasted" energy is probably proportional to engine speed. Double the engine speed in neutral, you could expect your fuel consumption to double.
As you add load, the revs start to fall, the governor responds with more fuel, the revs rise back to the set level.
As you remove load, the revs start to rise, the governor responds with less fuel, the revs fall back to the set level.
This happens really fast - you may not even notice it apart from a change in the noise.
So when you turn on your alternator, this adds load and the engine will use more fuel. The efficiency of this extra conversion (thermal to mechanical to electrical) has a theoretical maximum around 70%, but is probably far less. The actual load will depend on the engine speed, your alternator, battery and state of charge. And the efficiency will depend on the engine speed and the alternator.
An engine output, fuel consumption graph like this one: https://betamarine.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/B20-HE-Power-Graph.pdf assumes that you are actually driving a propellor and boat. If you run your engine at max revs in neutral you will not use 5L of fuel per hour. If you run your engine at low revs under a large load, you will not use 0.5L of fuel an hour.
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Same with me - rod (eg: very large screw driver) through the pin holes. And a big bar on the socket.
On my drive the securing nut is castellated and there is a split pin to remove first. This stops me from trying to over tighten the nut when remounting the prop.
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You make strip planked model yachts from it.
Have fun.
Dinghy types - Pros & Cons
in MarineTalk
Posted
Getting into a hard dinghy (ply or alloy) is not difficult, just don't stand on the gunwhale.
Step as far to the middle of the dinghy as you can, while holding on to a stanchion of pushpit with one hand. Then get your weight low as you let go of the stanchion.
Getting out is the same. Get a hold on on the rail as you stand, then step out.
It can be easier from a ladder than a from a stern platform. There's often nothing to hold onto around the stern platform/scoop, or you have to reach too far.
The key is having something sturdy to hold onto (with one hand) at around chest level while you are standing reasonably centred in the dinghy.