Cameron
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Posts posted by Cameron
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I'm more concerned about SSANZ setting a fair line... which I define as a start line I'm struggling to work out where I want to start. This spreads the fleet along the line rather than bunching a the favoured end. Sometimes where wind/tide can make one end advantageous a deliberate bias needs to be build into the line to tempt boats towards the other end.
Secondly, I'd like to see starts delayed in very light flukey conditions until the breeze stabilises. Generally the boats don't travel very far until the breeze kicks in anyway but there will be big winners and losers... so I think better to delay a little longer and get everyone away to a fair start.
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For the pilot I recently installed a Pelagic on Hard Labour after previously having had both Raymarine and Simrad tillerpilots... massive improvement!
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$220 is dirt cheap.... any less and the police would be after you for stolen property!
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12 knots is probably the worst possible speed they could choose for generating wake... most big launches are trying to get over the hump and plane at this speed so generate the biggest waves. 18knots at least lets them plane and the wakes actually reduce.
Personally I think the inner harbour (North head in) is crap for racing, big tide, heavy traffic, shitty wind from the buildings etc. I'm actually in favour of P.O.A extending wharfs and hopefully that forces the yacht clubs to start and finish racing at Orakei. The improved quality of racing would more than make up for the 30 min motor (positive side effect is it gives fridge time to cool the drinks!)
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If you want to keep your boat near optimum performance then white is brilliant as you can easily see any fouling and remove it...
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On 17/08/2020 at 1:50 PM, windmill said:
Hi everyone,
We're seeking a 16x11 LH folding prop to fit to a Volvo 120S saildrive and 18HP engine, on a Farr 1020.
Thank you
Got this prop available... Off a Volvo D1-20 motor and sail drive on a Farr 1020...Genuine Volvo prop... ph 021 2267662
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An interesting detail that certainly contributed to likelihood of a collision occurring on the startline such as the one that sunk Elliphunk is major line bias.
I realise that rum races are meant to be fun and not taken as seriously and that using permanent marks and start tower dramatically reduces the resource required by a club to run a race. It is also "part of the challenge" but it undoubtedly also increases the risk.
Why? Because rather than the fleet spreading right along the startline, they will all congregate at one end. For this particular start, on starboard close hauled a yacht would only be doing a little better than sailing along the line... as such many started on port with some possibly not even thinking that a few boats would still consider starting on starboard with such a heading. Late dips, congestion, and a risk of another boat being forced to tack (by other starboard tackers) cutting off your escape route are likely.
I suspect with rum racing the "fixed" startline won't change and you just need to think more about the possibilities...
However the following day for the RNZYS winter series the startline was between Te Kouma and a laid mark yet they pretty much replicated the rum race start of the day before in regards to angle and bias. To me this is absolutely crazy! If your going to bother to actually set a line at least try and make it a fair one. The tendency is to set the line square to the course... pretty much straight across the harbour. This inevitably creates a favoured end. Instead the race committee should angle the line to balance this with the objective being that there are valid reasons to start at any position along the line and potentially win the start. This will spread the fleet along the line and also result in more boats being "in the hunt" right of the start. It also reduces the chances of OCS, and recalls.
It's by no means just the RNZYS that is guilty of biased starts, virtually every club does it. This video below is a classic. Everybody wanted the windward end for a reaching start and it was carnage! SSANZ was lucky that there were no serious collisions. Some blame the sailors, and there is undoubtably some dumb stuff going on... but would this situation have happened if there was 20 deg more bias put into the other end of the line? I doubt it... well at least would be massively reduced. Same argument applies with class racing... if you get numerous general recalls generally the fleet is blamed for misbehaving. However I would put money on it that a large percentage of the time it's caused by a startline with too much bias. The other option is the line is fair but the course significantly favours one side, hence all the boats want to start at one end. The race committees challenge then is to put in enough deliberate bias to the line to tempt the fleet to spread right along the line.
So what's my point... Essentially Race Management can have a massive impact on risks of collision at the start. If they are going to "set" a startline as opposed to using permeant marks etc then they should at least try to make the start a fair one. Just setting a line and thinking it's up to the sailors to sort it out I believe is a little irresponsible. The more serious the event and the greater the number of competitors the more important this becomes.
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The start line will be between a staff displaying an orange flag on the SSANZ Committee Boat and the Northern Leading Harbour Racing Buoy, with the SSANZ Buoy splitting the line to form 2 sections.
Start Alpha (A) will be between the SSANZ Committee Boat and the laid SSANZ Buoy.
Start Bravo (B) will be between the SSANZ Buoy and the Northern Leading Harbour Racing Buoy.
Interesting... My understanding from the above is the startline is between the Orange flag and Northern Leading Racing Buoy. The SSANZ buoy's only purpose being to split the divisions into Alpha and Bravo depending on which side they are to pass. I would ask for clarification at the briefing as this creates a few interesting scenarios...
1.) Best option for SSANZ but unlikely as very difficult to achieve... The Orange Flag, SSANZ Buoy and Northern Leading Racing Buoy are in perfect alignment. No drama! Perfect!
2.) Worst option for SSANZ (In my opinion)... The SSANZ Buoy is forward of the line between the Orange Flag and Northern Leading Buoy. This could lead to numerous boats at the SSANZ Buoy ends of their respective lines being behind the SSANZ Buoy but over the startline, competitors will be confused and grumpy if DSQ'd
3.) Likely option... The SSANZ Buoy is behind the line between the Orange Flag and Northern Leading Buoy. This will encourage competitors to stay back behind the start but gives a few options that can be exploited by the sharper sailors. Potentially could sail past the SSANZ Buoy by boat lengths yet still be behind the start line. Could also potentially pass the SSANZ buoy on the correct side and then sail into the other part of the start (alpha to bravo or vice versa) although you would need to ensure you didn't infringe on other competitors in the process.
Alternatively my understanding as above could be completely wrong and the the lines are Orange Flag and SSANZ Buoy and SSANZ Buoy and Northern Leading Racing Buoy. In which case SSANZ will not be able to judge boats OCS on Startline Bravo from the Committee boat unless all 3 points along the startline are perfectly aligned therefore OCS calls will have to be made from a RIB at the Northern Leading Racing Buoy end...
Anyway I'm no longer involved in SSANZ and don't know what their intention or interpretation is... but highly recommend you seek clarification at the briefing if you intend maximising any advantage you can gain at the start!
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You can cook perfect sausages at anchor! The roll keeps them moving so they never burn!
Seriously thou... its a fantastic place to visit. I think I'm up to 6 trips now. But as Jon says it's best to have plenty of time. Base yourself around the top of NZ and when a good weather window arrives grab it... also get out again before it turns nasty. Having said that all my trips have been pretty good... but my second time up there I was on Te Ariki Nui and on arrival it took us an hour to untangle the anchor chain... on their previous trip hour they had copped a pounding and the anchor chain had been thrown around in the bow so much it was all knotted up!
Fishing is unreal...
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Is the start line moving from the Northern Leading area this year? Easier for Westhaven boats?
THE START
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8.1 Races will be started using RRS 26 with the warning signal made 5 (five) minutes before the starting signal.
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8.2 The Start line will be in the Waitemata Harbour
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21 hours ago, Deep Purple said:
In other news ... DP came with a multi-display but speed only. I fitted a depth transducer the other day and it reads perfectly...........................The distance between the hull and the top of the keel bulb - doh. Evidently I'm not the first
Can you switch the depth and speed transducers positions?
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If you look at the attached image you can see the coolant tank and heat exchanger and associated hoses are essentially at the same height but opposite sides of the motor. It takes stuff all heel for the Coolant tank to no longer be the highest point in the system... at which stage the issues start. Remote locating can completely resolve this problem.
Generally I motor or sail... but the way the motor comes ex factory the buzzer could sound within 2 minutes of hoisting the main on port tack even with minimal heel... I certainly what to be less restricted than that. 1245hr later and no real mechanical issues (other than a slight oil leak from a o-ring) would suggest oil pressure has never been a problem.
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According to the Volvo gauge they seem to run at 95 deg... been this way since new and consistent and no issue for 8 years now and 1245hrs. I don't know how accurate Volvo's gauge calibration is though.
One other issue with the D1 series (which Ovlov say nothing and claim no issues despite plenty of evidence on the internet) is the factory placement of the coolant tank. From memory if you heel over a bit on port tack (doesn't even have to be excessive) you can get air into the coolant system and get the temp warning buzzer going off very quickly.... in which the best thing to do is tack and shut down the engine if the buzzer doesn't stop pretty quickly but ideally tacking gets the air out of the coolant and circulating again. The cure is to remotely locate the coolant tank to a place that will remain above the engine when heeled on either tack. This issue was discovered shortly after installation and despite Ovlov investigating nothing was changed until we did our own research and fixed the fundamental design problem ourselves.
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Re... not stopping
I discovered by accident that if the batteries have somehow been turned off while the engine is running then the engine stop button won't work. Even if the batteries are turned back on the button will still not stop the engine so you have to resort to the manual engine stop lever located on the engine.
Turning the ignition off then on again (with batteries turned on) and then starting the engine... then everything functions as it should.
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I normally do the servicing myself... but thought they may be a better option in this case and know more than I do.... apparently not!
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Part 4 is the O-Ring that needed replacement
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If anyone has a Volvo D1-13, D1-20, D1-30 apparently it's not uncommon to get a small oil leak from the throttle input shaft.
Ovlov will quote north of $1k to fix and insist on taking the whole front of the motor apart to remove timing cover.
I saw them and showed them schematics about an easier way that meant only undoing 1 nut and 4 bolts but when the mechanic went to the boat and after inspecting he said it couldn't be done without removing the timing cover.
At this point I told them I would do the jib myself! I have successfully completed the job in the way I always thought possible in a fraction of the time quoted by Ovlov.
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Probably a deceptive image... but the rig almost looks forward of vertical... certainly very little if any rake.
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For an extra $250 go the Suzi all day long... At least you can always sell it. Parsun you would probably have for life as not many would want it!
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On 7/04/2020 at 6:32 AM, MuzzaB said:
They were very unstable - getting in over the transom was needed if you capsized in light air. Avoiding a roll-over when righting the boat in a breeze was a skill to be learned.
I disagree... Easier to sail than a P. Never had to get in over the transom or had issues avoiding a roll over. I had one to play with early on in my sailing career. Dad loved it when the ""P" mum's and dads got upset about this kid in another sort of boat passing their little Johnny. At that stage I have no doubt that "little Johnny" was the better sailor (a couple of years more experienced)... but the Sprint was faster.
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The solid colour vinyl lasts ages if you get quality stuff.... It's the printed ones with colour changes / fades etc that don't last all that well
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A pleasant sail up and down the harbour under No2 and full main followed by a few rums...
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Wahoo!
Brass Tacks
in My Boat
Posted
Quick check will soon establish if your non-factory finished 1020 is affected an if so its a quick fix. The boats have proven to be pretty tough