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Cameron

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Everything posted by Cameron

  1. Amateurs! Now this is a real horn I've recently helped install to a boat... F35A802B-946D-443B-8307-EB944C1037B0_1_201_a.heic 2A1AF883-E8E0-4ED4-A428-80DAE8434725.heic F35A802B-946D-443B-8307-EB944C1037B0_1_201_a.heic
  2. John Bennett at Sparloft is the class supplier for masts.
  3. I'd rather have the limit increased to 18 knots.... 12 knots is the absolute worst possible speed to choose as most launch's aren't quite planing so at at maximum possible wake creation speed. Either slower or faster is better!
  4. Bevin had Acclaim
  5. If you are going to change... go to needle roller bearings. The difference is huge!
  6. Ovlov would be the last place I would go to for checking or working on a Volvo (speaking from experience) unless you have far too much money!
  7. Quick check will soon establish if your non-factory finished 1020 is affected an if so its a quick fix. The boats have proven to be pretty tough
  8. I'm more concerned about SSANZ setting a fair line... which I define as a start line I'm struggling to work out where I want to start. This spreads the fleet along the line rather than bunching a the favoured end. Sometimes where wind/tide can make one end advantageous a deliberate bias needs to be build into the line to tempt boats towards the other end. Secondly, I'd like to see starts delayed in very light flukey conditions until the breeze stabilises. Generally the boats don't travel very far until the breeze kicks in anyway but there will be big winners and losers... so I think bette
  9. For the pilot I recently installed a Pelagic on Hard Labour after previously having had both Raymarine and Simrad tillerpilots... massive improvement!
  10. $220 is dirt cheap.... any less and the police would be after you for stolen property!
  11. 12 knots is probably the worst possible speed they could choose for generating wake... most big launches are trying to get over the hump and plane at this speed so generate the biggest waves. 18knots at least lets them plane and the wakes actually reduce. Personally I think the inner harbour (North head in) is crap for racing, big tide, heavy traffic, shitty wind from the buildings etc. I'm actually in favour of P.O.A extending wharfs and hopefully that forces the yacht clubs to start and finish racing at Orakei. The improved quality of racing would more than make up for the 30 min motor
  12. If you want to keep your boat near optimum performance then white is brilliant as you can easily see any fouling and remove it...
  13. Got this prop available... Off a Volvo D1-20 motor and sail drive on a Farr 1020...Genuine Volvo prop... ph 021 2267662
  14. An interesting detail that certainly contributed to likelihood of a collision occurring on the startline such as the one that sunk Elliphunk is major line bias. I realise that rum races are meant to be fun and not taken as seriously and that using permanent marks and start tower dramatically reduces the resource required by a club to run a race. It is also "part of the challenge" but it undoubtedly also increases the risk. Why? Because rather than the fleet spreading right along the startline, they will all congregate at one end. For this particular start, on starboard close hauled a
  15. Interesting... My understanding from the above is the startline is between the Orange flag and Northern Leading Racing Buoy. The SSANZ buoy's only purpose being to split the divisions into Alpha and Bravo depending on which side they are to pass. I would ask for clarification at the briefing as this creates a few interesting scenarios... 1.) Best option for SSANZ but unlikely as very difficult to achieve... The Orange Flag, SSANZ Buoy and Northern Leading Racing Buoy are in perfect alignment. No drama! Perfect! 2.) Worst option for SSANZ (In my opinion)... The SSANZ Buoy is forwa
  16. You can cook perfect sausages at anchor! The roll keeps them moving so they never burn! Seriously thou... its a fantastic place to visit. I think I'm up to 6 trips now. But as Jon says it's best to have plenty of time. Base yourself around the top of NZ and when a good weather window arrives grab it... also get out again before it turns nasty. Having said that all my trips have been pretty good... but my second time up there I was on Te Ariki Nui and on arrival it took us an hour to untangle the anchor chain... on their previous trip hour they had copped a pounding and the anchor chain h
  17. Is the start line moving from the Northern Leading area this year? Easier for Westhaven boats? THE START 8.1 Races will be started using RRS 26 with the warning signal made 5 (five) minutes before the starting signal. 8.2 The Start line will be in the Waitemata Harbour
  18. Can you switch the depth and speed transducers positions?
  19. If you look at the attached image you can see the coolant tank and heat exchanger and associated hoses are essentially at the same height but opposite sides of the motor. It takes stuff all heel for the Coolant tank to no longer be the highest point in the system... at which stage the issues start. Remote locating can completely resolve this problem. Generally I motor or sail... but the way the motor comes ex factory the buzzer could sound within 2 minutes of hoisting the main on port tack even with minimal heel... I certainly what to be less restricted than that. 1245hr later and no real
  20. According to the Volvo gauge they seem to run at 95 deg... been this way since new and consistent and no issue for 8 years now and 1245hrs. I don't know how accurate Volvo's gauge calibration is though. One other issue with the D1 series (which Ovlov say nothing and claim no issues despite plenty of evidence on the internet) is the factory placement of the coolant tank. From memory if you heel over a bit on port tack (doesn't even have to be excessive) you can get air into the coolant system and get the temp warning buzzer going off very quickly.... in which the best thing to do is tack a
  21. Re... not stopping I discovered by accident that if the batteries have somehow been turned off while the engine is running then the engine stop button won't work. Even if the batteries are turned back on the button will still not stop the engine so you have to resort to the manual engine stop lever located on the engine. Turning the ignition off then on again (with batteries turned on) and then starting the engine... then everything functions as it should.
  22. I normally do the servicing myself... but thought they may be a better option in this case and know more than I do.... apparently not!
  23. Part 4 is the O-Ring that needed replacement
  24. If anyone has a Volvo D1-13, D1-20, D1-30 apparently it's not uncommon to get a small oil leak from the throttle input shaft. Ovlov will quote north of $1k to fix and insist on taking the whole front of the motor apart to remove timing cover. I saw them and showed them schematics about an easier way that meant only undoing 1 nut and 4 bolts but when the mechanic went to the boat and after inspecting he said it couldn't be done without removing the timing cover. At this point I told them I would do the jib myself! I have successfully completed the job in the way I always thought
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