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Posts posted by ynot

  1. 10 hours ago, Ex Machina said:

    Installed  a 40L one and copied bad kitty ? By putting an inline tap in the loop from engine to tank . It gets stupid hot otherwise and relief valve wastes water too , it will open and stay open if you are motoring for long periods . Also put a 500W 230V element in and hope to run it off the inverter via solar on sunny days .

    My cylinder has a tempering valve to avoid being to hot out of tap.

    Also I would have thought that the relief should not vent at engine temp/pressure on a modern marine small engine which should be a low psi header tank cap which usually is only about 7psi vs a car which is up 13 psi.


    Seems wierd...maybe some fuckery going on for it to relieve?






  2. 4 hours ago, K4309 said:

    So are you just bending it by hand? Or are you using some tools?

    I assume you have made the curves you want out of that timber, and are bending it to that?

    Yep used that form and bent by hamd.. Only had to use an extension bar once when the tail got short. 

    I used my mockup pvc to make to jog about right and marked 100 mm graduations along it after the main bend and used the opposite direction to create the bow bit by bit. 

    I brought t 6m lengths of stainless so had plenty of leverage but a bit wasteful... Anyway had to try it and it worked. 

    I'm sure if I went for a tighter radius I think sand filling would be required to stop kinks in this form. Of Bending or maybe a groove in the form and the opposite on a roller with lever on the outside. 

    I practiser with aluminum tube first cause I have it. 

    Easier to bend than ya think. 

    Make sure to clamp the offside to the table so it doesn't roll. 

    Oh and don't slip and hit ya head on the drill press.... Duh.... And knocked me bloody beer off it. 


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  3. Just bent my own 1" stainless... Came up mint without even filling with sand but the radius was pretty big. 

    Just takes a bit of thought and measuring.... Oh and a trial piece. 



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  4. 5 hours ago, raz88 said:

    I like it, looks good. 

    Rather than flattening reef, if you have any room in the luff, could float the tack up a little with a strop or similar?


    Idea... but not much room for that. 

    Maybe get me scissors out and choppy chop 

    • Like 1
  5. 29 minutes ago, K4309 said:

    What's the name of the electrical conduit, or do you have a link to the supplier? All the stuff I've looked at it way to wobble / weak. Planning out how to build a new dodger, so this would be ideal.

    Ahhh yeah it's a mock up. 

    Best way I could think of to do it relatively cheap. 

    And yup electrical conduit is more pricey than ya would like or expect when paying retail. 

    Normally I keep plenty from demo jobs but got sick of throwing it out so stopped keeping it. 


    • Haha 1
  6. 53 minutes ago, aardvarkash10 said:

    too deep (fore and aft), too low - how are you ever going to manage those cabintop winches

    I hear ya... When cruzy mode never use extras but if I did they sheet across to headsail winches.... See other comment about electric. 

    I really would love it taller but bom may dictate that. 

    Guess could always cruz with the flattening reef which lifts it a little. 

    Bloody compromises 

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  7. The clutches can be worked... Just enough for a winch handle but when cruising mode the big electric winch does every thing. 

    Not trying to emulate any open 60 stuff it just seemed to fall into place at that shape,but yes does look that way. 

    Made of super strong electrical conduit and painters drop sheet... Wonder if I'll stand the test of time.......... 



  8. 52 minutes ago, Black Panther said:

    Not enough camber in the aft bow?

    Yep agreed. 

    Will go for a yacht and see what lowest boom height really is and see if any more can be accommodated. 

  9. Trying to decide if it is to big width wise eg looks fugly. 

    I'm a little stuck between being very small and only over companion way or make it wide and then I can sit beside sheet winches while sailing and be almost covered. 

    My comings to not line up with cabintop sides and flare out a long way hence the width at the back. 

    Ugly or not what do ya think. 

    Any input appreciated






  10. So yes they can alter certain rules within the club and yes it should be enforceable if they alter the rules they are allowed to. But this particular one is tricky if the boat has finished I guess unless you could prove that it possibly hindered your progress or actions getting to the finish line. 


  11. No wrongs done to me as in not out much enough (work gets in the way) but when I have been out over the last 25 years of sailing in auckland I have seen it a lot and going back to what I was imprinted with when very young (albeit probably wrong) and in the absence of not really looking at the rules I guess I believed it to be a rule. 

    Is the club that adds bits to the sailing instructions combined with a rule # plus an addition like . 2 or. 3 making a rule or a suggestion when combined with a rule that exists already. 

    Is it supposed to be enforceable or is it just a suggestion... If so then should it be even quoted with a rule attached? 

  12. I guess it's just polite to do it then. 

    When I sailed p class when I was a little younger the old boy always said never recross the line.... Guess he was just trying to install in me it's the right thing to do in his opinion. 

  13. Just seems weird that everyone just recrosses the line when boats still I would have thought staying clear by rounding outside the odm would have benn the cool thing to do.... Anyway just thought there was a rule at some stage 

  14. I'm pretty sure the richmond used to have this as a rule... Does it still exist? 

    Is it the wrong thing to do? How does committee know rou are not going back to right a wrong?  Or do they just assume? 



  15. Usb endiscope... Pb tech 50 dollar ish... plug into phone have a look first just in case one wing happens to be sitting half in valve seat on open valve.... Then ya know what to do.  Don't fiddle poke prod untill ya know.... If ya find it sitting by a open valve where it's sitting... Wind motor till valve closed whilst watching with camera then make a plan to poke prod hook fiddle or remove manifold. 

    Murphy is at play here so eliminate Murphy

  16. Yes It I agree... It seems like horse sh*t thay they would try to blame it on solar.... No issue here with the dealer all is good and being looked after. So you are saying your one is "seeing" voltages up to 14. 7 as well? Nm... Is yours still mounted on engine when 2 have died? 

    CD....is yours still mounted on engine... I probably will move mine because it would be easier to get it if happened again. 

    I read all lot of the Nordkyn stuff... All very interesting but I cannot find anything definitive on what actually goes kaput in them which I would have thought considering the amount of mdi deaths someone would have by now. 

    Guess I'll go through all the bits mentioned like relocate, batt connections etc and try again. 

    Is a vsr the right thing to use... Seems odd that sparky who fitted it said yes it is when clearly there are two battery types being kept and charged by the vsr when using solar sometimes up to 14.7 and treated as the same bank.... I thought a vsr split the charge but after reading myself it seems they only lock the banks together. 

    Must be a better way.

    Ill check what vsr it is




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