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cep32

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Everything posted by cep32

  1. I need to shorten my forestay on the Javelin. It is currently 5mm SS so I will have to take it to a rigging place (mast and all) to get it done which is a bit of a pain. Would Dyneema work if I oversized it heaps? I can get Dynice Dux locally which, if I use say 7mm will give me a breaking load of 7.5T. I figure that the load in the stay should be well less than 750kg (10% of MBL) so as long as I prestretch my splices it shouldn't creep or stretch on the boat. Am I on the right track or just risking a word of pain and frustration?
  2. So I have to install a gennaker halyard block on or in the mast of the Javelin. Ideally I'd like to go internal as there are a couple of internal blocks at the bottom of the mast for the halyard to exit from. I'm worried about the size of the hole I'll need to cut in the mast though. The mast is about 40mm in diameter at the hoist point. Do I need to be worried or should I just install the smallest through block I can find (275kg odd MWL and 1000kg BL for an RF20711HL)? Cheers, Chris
  3. cep32

    Forestay cleat

    Thanks everyone. I plan on doing the pulley and cleat thing next summer when funds are available. In the meantime, stay adjuster it is.
  4. Wow, that looks awesome. Looks like you had a bit more work to do than I did. It's always good to see older boats being given a new lease of life.
  5. So after the disaster of having my Javelin blown across the concrete at the yacht club during a storm a couple of years ago I have finally got the motivation to get it up and running again. Last night was the final top coat so it finally feels like the hard work is done. Work done: Add prod New gennaker retrieval chute (to fit around new prod) Replace all aluminium bracing with carbon fibre tube Add extra bracing at back of centreboard case Remove traveler bar and replace with low bracing frame on cockpit floor Sheath side tanks in glass Add two way pressure release valves to ta
  6. cep32

    Forestay cleat

    Thanks everyone. I went to have a look at the FD's but they all have on-the-fly rig adjustment which is a bit complicated for a simple soul like me. I'm a bit nervous about an aluminium hook rack as I've seen one fail in spectacular fashion. I've narrowed it down to two options: 1. An Allen Brothers Highfield lever (if I can find one) 2. A mast hound mounted upside down with a stay adjuster attached (easy to find) Cheers, Chris
  7. cep32

    Forestay cleat

    Hi Matt, Yes I'm still in Nelson. It would be great to have you over sail when I've got the Jav up and running. The complicating factor is I run a jib furler when I sail with the kids so there is no room for a separate forestay. When the jib isn't up I have a bummy stay that I unclip from the bottom of the mast and attach to the bow before dropping the jib. I'm not looking to adjust anything while I'm sailing, just to allow me to use different jibs depending on who I'm sailing with. Another idea I had was to use a boom slide in a track but I'm not sure if that will handle t
  8. cep32

    Forestay cleat

    Oh, and if an adjustable Highfield lever is the only way to go, anyone have any idea who might stock on in NZ?
  9. cep32

    Forestay cleat

    I apologise if this is a stupid question but I haven't been able to find anything online. I'm rigging up my Javelin to allow me to raise the jib with the forestay. The jib also has wire in the luff so the wire will go from the bow, up to the front of the mast, down the mast and then needs to be anchored at the base of the mast somehow. Ideally it would be good to have some adjustment on the mast as well to allow for raking the mast more or less. I've seen the Highfield lever option but is there a cheaper way? Could I use a small bull horn cleat and a short length of dyneema between
  10. Does anyone have an older Javelin jib with a shorter foot that they would be willing to sell? Cheers, Chris
  11. Thanks for the feedback. I've been puzzling a bit over this and have decided that I'll fit a bob-stay and see how it goes. If I run it loose and it doesn't load up I'll remove it.
  12. Having completed the job I figure I should feed back the result. I used turtle wax like you would use on your car. 10 thin layers with drying time in between. Polish once hard. Then glass straight over top. For the first layer of glass I wet the glass out on a plastic plate first then laid it on the mould. This was to avoid any chance of the wax contaminating the glass weave. The result has been good. The mould released easily without the need for PVA release agent. Keep in mind this probably only works if you are destroying the mould when you remove it. Cheers, Chris
  13. I've put a carbon prod on my old Javelin and am wondering whether I can get away without a bob-stay. The prod is the bottom section of a 49er mast which is 64mmOD and 3.5mm wall thickness. Does anyone have any experience with what sort of size the prod sections are when unstayed in the Javelin fleet (their Google Groups site doesn't seem to be used much)? Cheers, Chris
  14. I'm prepping a mould for fibreglassing. The shape is very complex and as a result I have decided to destroy the mould to remove it from the fibreglass part. If I'm cutting the mould out, do I need to use PVA release agent on top of the 10 or so layers of release wax or can I get away with just using the wax? Cheers, Chris
  15. Thanks for that. Looks like I have a plan.
  16. Sorry for the delay in getting back. The board is about 15mm thick and I would be standing about 1.2m out from the hull. For those of you that have carbon tape on the centreboard, does it cover the whole width or just a strip down the widest point on the board? Cheers, Chris
  17. I've been given an old wooden centreboard to go with my Javelin and given that I'm 110kg when dry, I'm keen to make sure it is strong enough not to break when I stand on the end of it when righting the boat. As a result I've been looking at ways to reinforce it. It is made of laminated pine by the look of it. Is it worth using carbon fibre UD tape or could I get away with using fibreglass? Cheers, Chris
  18. I'm doing a bit of work on my Javelin and as part of that want to remove the traveler bar from the cockpit. I have attached a rough diagram of the existing bracing layout. In short, I am thinking that I should be able to get away with increasing the height of the transom to the top of the side decks. That way the side tanks will act as full length hollow section beams held together by the transom and front bulkhead. The traveler bar that was in the boat went through the centre of the cockpit but was just held in with four short screws so I can't imagine it did anything other than hold the
  19. cep32

    Nose job

    Anyone have any advice regarding carbon layup at the bow? I figure I'm going to have to use multiple small pieces that overlap one another as the shape is quite complex. I see two finctions that need to be accounted for. the first is to make sure the black tube stays put (mainly compression load?) and the second to tie the bow area together during large lifting and lateral loads when the kite is up. Also, is this https://www.fibreglassshop.co.nz/ where everyone gets their carbon from?
  20. cep32

    Nose job

    The black carbon tube is the outer sleeve that goes from bow stem back to the bulkhead in the third photo. The white tube is the lower section of a 49er mast and will eventually just slide in the sleeve and butt up against a stop at the bulkhead end of the sleeve. The prod won't be retractable but should be easy to install and not get the kite tangled as I found with stays.
  21. cep32

    Nose job

    After a lot of character building following the Jav being blown across the yacht club tarmac things are back on track for being back on the water by the start of next summer. The cost of bow fittings for a stayed prod was terrifying so I've gone unstayed (maybe a bob-stay). This is boat number two that I've done up and this part has been the most fun I've had. Nothing like a large prod to loosen the bowels.................I mean.................umm...............in the context of a pole on the front of a boat.............not a literal loosening.............ah forget it.
  22. Just answered my own question after a bit of online stalking. Have asked about DM20 on your website.
  23. Where did you get the DM20 from? By the time I pay someone to make up some wire stays it might cost more than me getting some fancy fibre and splicing it myself. I did my trapeze lines with 4mm dyneema (whatever Nelrig do for $2.40/m) and enjoyed doing the splicing. All the posts I read tell me you do this sort of thing but you really need to put a link to your website in your profile so I can at least spend my money in the right place.
  24. Hmmmmm. Lots to think about. As a test I bought a spray can of silicon sailcote and after liberal application to both gennaker and retrieval chute the gennaker slides in pretty easily. I think some more thinking time is in order. I'll leave the prod until last as I have a new centreboard to make (the old one split on the first sail) as well as all the hull and side tank repairs to do this winter. Depending on what option I go with I might come back to you. Especially if I can steal a few carbon cloth scraps that you might have hanging round. I've been meaning to ask, any up
  25. I've never used it so don't have much of an idea of how much I need. It is for attaching a couple of shackles to a gennaker prod and an eye to the bottom of the bow stem for a bob-stay. You're putting me off the idea though.
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