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cep32

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Posts posted by cep32

  1. I've been trying to get hold of NZ rigging for a dinghy mast and haven't had any luck. I've sent a bunch of emails and rung to follow up and haven't had any replies. Does anyone know if they're still in business?

  2. I need to replace the floor on the Laser 2. I'd like to do a foam and glass one but don't have vacuum equipment. What type of foam, thickness of foam and number of glass layers would you guys use as a starting point? We're a heavy crew but I don't mind putting a couple more frames across under the floor to help with that.

  3. I need to shorten my forestay on the Javelin. It is currently 5mm SS so I will have to take it to a rigging place (mast and all) to get it done which is a bit of a pain.

    Would Dyneema work if I oversized it heaps? I can get Dynice Dux locally which, if I use say 7mm will give me a breaking load of 7.5T. I figure that the load in the stay should be well less than 750kg (10% of MBL) so as long as I prestretch my splices it shouldn't creep or stretch on the boat.

     

    Am I on the right track or just risking a word of pain and frustration?

  4. So I have to install a gennaker halyard block on or in the mast of the Javelin.

     

    Ideally I'd like to go internal as there are a couple of internal blocks at the bottom of the mast for the halyard to exit from. I'm worried about the size of the hole I'll need to cut in the mast though. The mast is about 40mm in diameter at the hoist point.

     

    Do I need to be worried or should I just install the smallest through block I can find (275kg odd MWL and 1000kg BL for an RF20711HL)?

     

    Cheers,

    Chris

  5. So after the disaster of having my Javelin blown across the concrete at the yacht club during a storm a couple of years ago I have finally got the motivation to get it up and running again.

     

    Last night was the final top coat so it finally feels like the hard work is done.

     

    Work done:

    Add prod

    New gennaker retrieval chute (to fit around new prod)

    Replace all aluminium bracing with carbon fibre tube

    Add extra bracing at back of centreboard case

    Remove traveler bar and replace with low bracing frame on cockpit floor

    Sheath side tanks in glass

    Add two way pressure release valves to tanks

     

    Posted so anyone thinking of doing something similar can be a bit more confident, as if I can do it then, trust me, anyone can do it.

     

    Sorry for the sideways pictures. They show upright on my computer so not sure how to change them.

     

    Cheers,

    Chris

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    • Upvote 3
  6. Thanks everyone.

     

    I went to have a look at the FD's but they all have on-the-fly rig adjustment which is a bit complicated for a simple soul like me.

     

    I'm a bit nervous about an aluminium hook rack as I've seen one fail in spectacular fashion.

     

    I've narrowed it down to two options:

     

    1. An Allen Brothers Highfield lever (if I can find one)

    2. A mast hound mounted upside down with a stay adjuster attached (easy to find)

     

    Cheers,

    Chris

  7. Hi Matt,

     

    Yes I'm still in Nelson. It would be great to have you over sail when I've got the Jav up and running.

     

    The complicating factor is I run a jib furler when I sail with the kids so there is no room for a separate forestay.

     

    When the jib isn't up I have a bummy stay that I unclip from the bottom of the mast and attach to the bow before dropping the jib.

     

    I'm not looking to adjust anything while I'm sailing, just to allow me to use different jibs depending on who I'm sailing with.

     

    Another idea I had was to use a boom slide in a track but I'm not sure if that will handle the load.

     

    Cheers,

     

    Chris

  8. I apologise if this is a stupid question but I haven't been able to find anything online.

     

    I'm rigging up my Javelin to allow me to raise the jib with the forestay. The jib also has wire in the luff so the wire will go from the bow, up to the front of the mast, down the mast and then needs to be anchored at the base of the mast somehow.

     

    Ideally it would be good to have some adjustment on the mast as well to allow for raking the mast more or less.

     

    I've seen the Highfield lever option but is there a cheaper way? Could I use a small bull horn cleat and a short length of dyneema between it and the end of the forestay/halyard?

     

    Cheers,

    Chris

  9. Having completed the job I figure I should feed back the result.

     

    I used turtle wax like you would use on your car. 10 thin layers with drying time in between. Polish once hard. Then glass straight over top.

     

    For the first layer of glass I wet the glass out on a plastic plate first then laid it on the mould. This was to avoid any chance of the wax contaminating the glass weave.

     

    The result has been good. The mould released easily without the need for PVA release agent.

     

    Keep in mind this probably only works if you are destroying the mould when you remove it.

     

    Cheers,

    Chris

  10. I've put a carbon prod on my old Javelin and am wondering whether I can get away without a bob-stay. The prod is the bottom section of a 49er mast which is 64mmOD and 3.5mm wall thickness.

     

    Does anyone have any experience with what sort of size the prod sections are when unstayed in the Javelin fleet (their Google Groups site doesn't seem to be used much)?

     

    Cheers,

     

    Chris

  11. I'm prepping a mould for fibreglassing. The shape is very complex and as a result I have decided to destroy the mould to remove it from the fibreglass part.

     

    If I'm cutting the mould out, do I need to use PVA release agent on top of the 10 or so layers of release wax or can I get away with just using the wax?

     

    Cheers,

    Chris

  12. Sorry for the delay in getting back.

     

    The board is about 15mm thick and I would be standing about 1.2m out from the hull.

     

    For those of you that have carbon tape on the centreboard, does it cover the whole width or just a strip down the widest point on the board?

     

    Cheers,

    Chris

  13. I've been given an old wooden centreboard to go with my Javelin and given that I'm 110kg when dry, I'm keen to make sure it is strong enough not to break when I stand on the end of it when righting the boat.

     

    As a result I've been looking at ways to reinforce it. It is made of laminated pine by the look of it. Is it worth using carbon fibre UD tape or could I get away with using fibreglass?

     

    Cheers,

    Chris

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