Cheap Transport
-
Content Count
85 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
7
Content Type
Profiles
Media Demo
Forums
Gallery
Calendar
Store
Posts posted by Cheap Transport
-
-
I'm sure it's been asked multiple times but I'm looking for the above, preferably sourced locally. Fairly simple set up of B&G Vulcan and DST Triton package - I'm simply wanting to link my older Navico 300c tiller pilot (same as earlier TP32) to steer to a preset waypoint. I sailed on a R930 with this exact set up so I know it can be done, just need a converter.
Would this do the trick?
If not, recommendations please.
-
We've come home after a week in Coro. Had never been to Te Kouma before (only been a boat owner for 18 months, 9 of which was a re-fit). Blown away by the beauty of this place, especially so close to home in the Weiti River. Came back on Sunday with the easterly pushing us along nicely, top speed of 10.5 with the number 2 up, surfing down a few swells much to the delight of my kids (not so much the Mrs😅). Will definitely be back there soon. Favourite spot - Rangipukea Island
-
1
-
2
-
-
Did some new tweaker lines out of 6mm last week, was so much harder that a 10-12mm rope! Got there in the end... though I did end up cutting the end of one as I grabbed the wrong tail and ended up with a low friction ring at each end of one line🤣🤣🤣
-
1
-
-
Nice work on the pull fids, they look bloody good! I've just started playing around with different ropes and learning to splice too. I find it somewhat relaxing despite the challenging nature out can sometimes bring. I just started out with 6mm dyneema, uncovered, so nice and easy, and like you made my own fid from a bic ball point pen with the top cut off. Worked a treat. Have now got to the stage you're at with a 10mm double braid eye splice.
-
4
-
-
On 26/11/2022 at 7:35 AM, ballystick said:
Island Time would be a suitable person to assist. I don't think it would be easy to pull over on a halyard even if it had a lifting keel. Rigging companies often fit windgear for owners, try a local firm from the hardstand area there or use the main halyard and bosun's chair with an assistant to get to the top of the mast.
I can tell you from first hand experience that an 830 with a lifting keel up will very easily roll over with a little weight to the top of the rig.... will try to find the photos so you can all have a laugh 😃
-
As FLC said above, at Weiti you go on a waiting list to get a pile mooring. Current wait time is approx 3 years and growing. Sublets are currently at a minimum, possibly only a couple at the moment.
The club however is great, good facilities, hardstand etc and a beautiful spot to boot. A Tracker could probably get out of the river an hour and a half either side of low tide.
-
2 minutes ago, Frank said:
When a painter sprayed my C29 it was touch and go on the dew point so we put fan heaters in the boat and I slept on board , we got away with it except for a wee patch near the anchor locker. On another note a number of fellow club members have had durability issues with 2 Part Poly applied over an epoxy base, myself too. It seemed to fade and chalk up after three seasons or so and the lunch room consensus was that the UV was encouraging some sort of chemical interaction with the epoxy.
I'm sure the Altex manf instructions say its OK though and with the number of coats you have put on it should be fine but in the unlikely event you have issues I would hold them to account, she looks sharp, good finish.
+1 on the fan heaters Frank. I had 1 in the boat and 2 others in the shed. They were just enough to take the chill out of the air. Have seen others (in other painting situations) using lpg or diesel heaters. While these warm up the air they also put a sh*t load of moisture in the air, ultimately slowing down the curing process.
-
Looking good IT. Mine is still shrinking back after 6 weeks - I'm really happy with the finish now. Will pop down for a look next time I feel the need to throw more money away at Burnsco🤣
-
1
-
-
-
3
-
2
-
-
So yesterday Cheapy was finally put back in her happy place, Yes, she's wet again. Not quite complete but a couple of days of reinstalling fittings and a couple of weekends to paint the rig and she'll be good as new.
Few shots from the last couple of days.
-
BTW if the above-mentioned on my painting reads a little like an advertisement for Altex, it wasn't intended. I initially was going to use International Perfection but my final decision was based on budget, and advice from those who have used both products in similar wintery conditions.
-
20 minutes ago, Island Time said:
great job!
Thanks I.T. 👍
-
4 minutes ago, k88 said:
Great work, looks just as good as spray job. Can you give some tips on how you go about your roll on paint job, what paint, what to do, what not to do and what to watch out for. Seriously thinking of painting the cockpit. Thanks
Hi K88, I used west Systems epoxy with various powders for filling and fairing, and Upol Dolphin Glaze for minor pin holes etc. I sanded the gelcoat back using orbital or hand sanding with 60 and 80grit. Applied first coat of Epoxy undercoat and when fully cured, sanded with 180grit. Applied second epoxy undercoat and again sanded with 180grit. For my epoxy undercoats I used Durepox (with 10% thinner), in hindsight I would use a hi build epoxy from Altex and I probably would have got away with 1 coat. Altex Polyurethane undercoat was then applied (with 10% thinner) and when cured this was sanded back with 240grit.
Top coats were Altex Elite 321 2 pot. This is designed to be applied by brush or roller. Both coats were thinned 7%.
All products didn't recommend thinning if the temp was under 20° and high humidity. However, when practicing with the paint without thinner it bubbled (micro bubbles) and they never flowed out. No issues once thinner added.
I applied all coatings using CQ mini mohair roller sleeves. I removed all loose fibres first by wrapping tape around the sleeve and pulling it off, followed by a light wash in thinners prior to painting.
I only brushed where cutting into the toe rails. I rolled in multiple different directions in sections about 1m wide and then layed off with the roller in one direction, top to bottom. You must keep a wet edge with all these coatings so it's important you either have enough paint mixed up to complete an entire area, or you have someone there mixing as you go as all products have a 15-20 min induction time.
If you are masking anything, I'd recommend a rice paper (washi) masking tape. It's super thin, no stretch, and leaves Razor sharp lines with no bleeding. A lot of the premium washi tapes have a wax coating on them so the paint won't dry on the tape and tear when you remove it.
In total I used 5L of Durepox, approx 4L of Altex Polyurethane UC and 5L of Altex Elite 321 which includes the 2 coats for all the non skid.
Feel free to pm me if you want further info👍
-
1
-
2
-
-
44 minutes ago, Black Panther said:
What does Tamsin think? That's the important thing.
She hasn't decided whether she wants a divorce or to burn the boat to the ground😅 work in progress I guess🤣
-
Pretty happy with how she looks in natural light.
-
1
-
3
-
-
-
Will be spending the next week or so fitting hatches, port lights, electrics etc. Will post a few pics once she's out of the shed.
-
Windows in today, coving tomorrow.
-
2
-
-
Boot top😍
-
1
-
-
Deck tread
-
1
-
-
Masking out for me deck tread. I've gone with the International grits that you add to the paint. Roll on a coat of paint, sprinkle using a purpose made shaker, then roll another coat
-
1
-
1
-
-
Hatches, dash board etc
-
1
-
-
Hull top coats, again rolled.
-
1
-
-
Top coats😍 we're not allowed to spray in our club shed so all coats are rolled.
-
1
-
1
-
WTB: Simnet to NMEA2000 Cable
in Classifieds
Posted
As per above, any length will do but ideally 10-15 feet in length.