
Winter
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Posts posted by Winter
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And a crash helmet.
with a crotch strap.
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1
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This is correct Chris.
Sometimes they can be fooled with a resistor of the correct value across the correct pins of the USB..
EG : http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-and-simple-USB-car-fast-charger-mod/
However it seems that Samsung/ Apple/ et all are all doing things their own way - so you'll need to find the correct method of tricking it for your particular device.
One answer is perhaps just get a tiny inverter only big enough for your charger (or two) like a 150W job.. plug your AC charger in here.
It will use more power than the equiv DC-DC, but at least it is plug and play.
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There is one next to me for sale. Look pretty spiffy
Squid Vicious - on tardme at the moment.
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I got quotes or estimates from the boat yard, addedd 10% for the inconvenience and asked if the vendor wanted to rectify or you would adjust the offer to cover it. And be happy with either outcome
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That one is a Kawasaki Verseys 1000.
Nice bike. If i was getting another i think a tourer or adventure tourer would be the go.
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What sorta bike you got KM? I miss my old bike
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Yeah, only looked on my phone last night - on the PC the misalignment of the new mount is obvious. What does the other side look like? It could be a whole engine alignment issue, not just one mount. Normally/often the type of mounts shown are slotted at one end? It is important to get a alignment right, or either the rubber, the vulcanizing, or the mount bolt will break over time.
Yeah. I'm pretty sure I need to replace the other 3 - they are all pretty old and tired and who knows what state the rubber is in.
This one is slotted one end and holed at the other. Still a bit of wiggle room in the hole end too.
I've just looked up the part number the yanmar man sold me and online it seems to be referred to as a 'Rear' engine mount.. I've stuck it in the front! Think that matters? at $330odd each, I was not in a hurry to do all four
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With all the information provided above... How does Knot Me stay in business?
Because during the previous couple of weeks I've been into most of the big name swindlery's looking for this sort of information, and there was none forthcoming.
Consequently, KM will now receive my business.
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haha yes I just found the chains ropes and anchors website and hve been busy reading up
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My lines are starting to look pretty ratty, and need replacing asap.
I had some questions on the setup I inherited with the boat + berth.
I go stern to, with a finger down my port side.
The aft port has two lines with eye splices. seems simple, easy enough.
the aft strbd has one line which loops - so just throw it over the cleat, and a second line with a splice. Effectively 3 lines but seems very messy and is difficult to fit on the single cleat.
Forward there is a line each side with eyes spliced.
These all seem to do a good job of holding the boat in the centre line of the berth.
Then we run one line from the end of the finger to midships and tie it around the base of the shrouds, this is to stop the boat going backwards into the dock.
This bit needs improving - its tied each time so there is higher chance of getting it wrong;
its always a slightly different length and i'm never sure which is best;
it rubs badly on the toe rail and;
It puts what seems like a lot of strain on the wrong axis of the shrouds.. must be a better way.
Can anybody enlighten my as to why there would be three lines when presumably one would do (strbd aft),
And what option do I have for a (spring?) line? I can make it longer and take it back to a cockpit winch or something?
Thanks. Lots to learn
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Crew.org.nz reporter on the ground in Rio.
Nice day at the marina here and some good results from the kiwis.
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Good boats but the steel frame worries me.
Why does it worry you? Rust? Is that any worse than rot in a wooden boat?
Serious question as i dont know
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Where did you end up getting your pump Winter ?
Something I've got on the to-do list and I'm sick of the stupid little hand pumps that the hose comes off and drip oil
Jon I ended up at burnsco and purcahsed one of these : http://www.burnsco.co.nz/shop/shop-all/plumbing-pumps-toilets/general-purpose-pumps/oil-and-fluid-vacuum-extractor
Yes i know cheaper on tardme etc but I wanted it then and there!
Really happy with it, didn't spill a drop and very easy and effortless to use really
Have done the boat and the missus's VW with it so far
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Thanks for all the advice chaps.
Pleased to say oil + filter change went without a hitch. Hardest part seemed to be getting new oil in without spilling everywhere.
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Allright thanks everyone - thanks Wheels you were the winner on the green shed. I had to go two two of them before I found someone who knew what I was talking about. $11 for a ten pack. They have the oil only and the oil+water.
Repco had nothing - neither the oil pads or the oil pump.
ChrisC what brand is your 5L suction gizmo?
This is proving harder to find - the tardeme ones all seem to be 10L or they are shipped from the UK..
Repco has nothing
yet to try supercheap or burnsco
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oil change time.
I'm in the market for a gizmo to sucky out the old before I put in the new.
Does anyone have any recommendations?
Looking at something like this one : http://www.ebay.com/itm/BikeMaster-CJ-125-Oil-Fluid-Extractor-/322056415392
Also, where can I get those special absorbent mats which soak up oil but not water?
Cheers!
Fined for creating a dangerous wave
in MarineTalk
Posted
Is this not great news? Now they will be after those pesky ferrries and their dangerous waves!