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Winter

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Posts posted by Winter

    Alternator Controller behaviour

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    1 hour ago, bigal.nz said:

    Winter : I have the VRM portal as well (except I did it with a Rasp Pi) - its bloody brilliant isn't it?

    It is bloody brilliant, and Victrons willingness to open that up to rasp pi tinkerers is fantastic. the bmv 712 plus a rasp pi cant be beaten. 

    puts Victron at the top of my list. their stuff is pretty good value!

     

    Alternator Controller behaviour

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Thanks IT, the reg shouldn't be cutting the alt to 80% as It is currently set as hot rated (see first post)

    No idea if it is hot rated either ,but it has always been set that way and hasn't died yet..

    Alternator was a single V, I've recently changed it to twin V.

    I've got the datasheet for the batterys and have set the solar + shore power charging systems to the spec - but yeah, now being let down by poor alternator control.

    Here is todays efforts : You can def see the charge current drop off as the batteries SOC increases.

    image.png

    Alternator Controller behaviour

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    I have been watching closely my alternator performance recently, and I'm seeing some behavior I can't work out.

    I have no idea what the alternator is (its Bosch, but that's the only marking I could find)
    Alternator Controller is a CruzPro SAR20 (http://www.cruzpro.com/sar20.html)
    Batteries are AGM. New. 

    Here is what I see : 

    House set sitting about 12.75v,
    Start the engine. SAR20 puts no load on the alt for 60 seconds, then slowly loads it up over about 30seconds.
    Batteries start charging about 40a. 
    After 15mins, the current drops to 3 or 4a

    Stop the engine, restart it, 60 seconds later its back at 40a. 15 minutes later, same thing. 

    As the batteries charge and the current drops off, (currently at 11a going into the batteries) this still drops right off to 4a ish every 15minutes. 

    The SAR20 has a feature to select if you have a 'hot rated' alternator, which is meant to reduce the alternator load to 80% of maximum after 15 minutes. This feature is disabled by a jumper on the box (is currently disabled)

    Its a bit tedious having to stop and start every 15minutes. (but it works)

    Any thoughts on why?

     

    image.png

    Covid 19 and liveaboards

    in MarineTalk

    Posted

    IT can you elaborate on your thoughts about the local store?

    I have probably got a bit over 4 weeks food aboard, and was not expecting to nip up to the shop every few days for some sugar for my tea, but I didnt think calling in after 2 weeks to get some more fresh veg  / meat etc would cause them any harm? (distancing + mask and gloves)

    my understanding was the govt was paying for supply flights and the island has no shortage on goods. 

    Infact, I would have thought the tiny shopkeep could do with the economic relief of a few extra shoppers?

    Food is essential, and so is travel to and from the nearest shop.. 

    Whisper Power PMG

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Troubleshooting tips 'check the fuse' and 'ensure unit is not overheated'

     

    No mention of the USB port or software for configuration or diagnosis..

     

    What I mean by I can't find much online, there is no forum with people raving about how great these units are, but there are also no forums with people ranting about how sh#t they are.. 

     

    I was hoping to find information on common failures etc.

     

    I thought I was in for a PCB level repair, but everything seems to be in order, its just not sending the start signal..  

    Whisper Power PMG

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Has anyone come across these generators before? 

     

    Variable speed generator makes up to 400hz AC 3phase, which is then put through an invertor of sorts to make 230v 50hz. 

     

    I have one here that the controller is failing to fire the start solenoid.  Can't seem to find much online about them.

     

     

     

    Battery Choice

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Also important that an AGM has airflow around it as they can get warm while going through charging cycle.

    I guess that is true of all battery types? Most things get warm when you push power in/thru.

     

    The battery in your link is rated 120Ah at the 20hr rate. The hour rate is how capacity is measured and at 25 Degrees Celsius and more hours use will give you slightly elevated capacity.  A true 120Ah would be rated at the 10hr rate like this battery https://waveinverter.co.nz/shop/deep-cycle-battery/fm120/

     

    Also just something that seems to ring true 'almost' all of the time with common lead acid types,  the heavier the battery, the higher the real world no BS capacity.  A lighter battery with the same Ah rating is likely to have some marketing/ghost amp hours and we know we can't use those marketing/ghost amp hours.  

     

    My reading had suggested that the 20hr rate was the more common rate to measure batteries by?  Although I guess that most load would be overnight - so maybe the 10hr is better. 

    Regardless, that battery you suggest looks good, and yes more capacity, but unfortunately is too physically big.

     

    Lotta marketing speak...but no stated anticipated cycle life...look expensive in the link above

    That was one of the things that attracted me to that Ritar battery I first linked - it has a very comprehensive PDS showing expected cycle life at varying depth of discharge. 

     

    Hi Winter, are you looking at batteries based on budget, or are you after quality? the one you are looking at is probably not the best for either. I and I am sure a few others could give you some suggestions if you want.

    I am looking for batteries based on size - as I have a tight fit / small space to fit them in. So I'm looking for ones that match the existing - Dimensions: (L)330 (W)170 (H)240mm

    Yes I would love suggestions. I am not that budget conscious but don't want to stretch to any Li chemistry. 

     

    Yep, if you like Winter, I can price a decent alternative. Send me a PM if your interested.

    Yes Please! Happy to hear peoples opinions- this is why I posted :D

     

    I'm not sure I can make it to your talk tonight - I would like to, unfortunately with Auckland's traffic and my work schedule..

     

    FYI

    The rest of the battery system includes includes Victron BMV-712, Victron SmartSolar MPPT 75/15, Victron MultiPlus 35a charger, and unknown alternator around 80amps with a CruzPro SAR20 smart Alternator regulator

    Battery Choice

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Hi

     

    I'm replacing my house bank. 

    Whats in there now is :

     

    2x 130ah FLA  https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/batteries-chargers/listing-2317895601.htm

     

    My Replacement choice currently is 2x of these

    https://www.thebatterycellonline.co.nz/product/1934302

     

    12V 120ah SLA, VRLA, AGM sealed Battery RITAR F12 "DC"

     

    Can anyone comment on my choice? I want to move on from FLA, mainly because the house bank is in the cabin, (under a seat) and not really vented.

     

    I've also upgraded all my charging/MPPT/battery monitor setup to Victron products so I now have full control & logging of all the charging parameters to (hopefully)  look after these ones a bit better.

     

     

    12V 120ah SLA, VRLA, AGM sealed Battery RITAR F12 "DC"

    Shaft grounding / bonding

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Winter, we seem to have all been slightly distracted from your original post. Was it answered for you?

    The strap with the Carbon brush on the end is common and you should be able to get another one from a Marine sparky no problem. The carbon brush on the end is usually a Silver/Carbon or Copper Carbon material.

    The picture of the shaft does give me one concern however. The Brush looks like it may be home made. Nothing wrong with that if it is working. However, normal practice is the earth wire should connected directly to the Carbon brush itself and not a ways down the strap like the Picture seems to show.

    somewhat. If I want to replace I can use a brush like the one pictured, (taking care to attach my wire directly to the brush).

    OR

    I can remove the bond entirely, as my shaft and prop have an anode, and my engine has 3 internal anodes, so there would appear to be no real need to join them.

     

    Im going to replace the brush with a new one. seems to have worked ok in the past so Ill just fix up and tidy without reinventing the system here..

     

    thanks to all for the advice and reading material.

    Shaft grounding / bonding

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Why? you want to create a circuit to get the electrolysis going? 

     

    If you haven't got electrolysis don't touch it.

    Ah, well. Because the boat had a system when I bought it.. but its pretty crappy / broken, so I thought I should re-do it.

     

    And Its been not / poorly connected for a while and I ate through a shaft anode to near nothing in 18 months..

     

    XtsMsFF.png

    Swapping plugs pain

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    The fridge has two plugs? a 230v one and a 12v one?

    Can't you just leave them both plugged in, the fridge will likely prefer the 230v one over the 12v input.

     

    Which make/model fridge is it?

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