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Winter

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Posts posted by Winter

    Tiller pilot (again) which one?

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Yes. Simnet is N2k for all intents and purposes. The mfd software will identify the TP as an AP, and those controls will be enabled.

     

    Are you 100% on this? I thought the N2k on the TP series only  did heading outputs and a couple other little bits on n2k but no control from MFD, ie no +1 +10 etc from a navico MFD

     

    I hooked one up breifly as a test and could't get any AP functions to show..

     

    Seriously hoping I am wrong, but I want to see it with my own eyes before I shell out for a new TP and p9...

    Bilge alarm

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    The SMS2 unit above is 3G/4G, GSM is general message service...

    Really?

    220px-GSMLogo.svg.png
     
    The GSM logo is used to identify compatible devices and equipment. The dots symbolize three clients in the home network and one roaming client.[1]

    GSM (Global System for Mobile communications) is a standard developed by the European Telecommunications Standards Institute (ETSI) to describe the protocols for second-generation digital cellular networks used by mobile devices such as tablets, first deployed in Finland in December 1991.

    Bilge alarm

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    This is what you want.

    SMS-2.pdf

    Delivery is normally overnight.

    Let me know if you want one..

    Matt

    connects to gsm network... are there many of those around still?

    might want to find a unit a bit more future proof with 4g or similar connection

    Rudder indicators

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Glad to hear it is solved.

    some of the vdo indicators do actually have an adjustment pot, however it is set at the factory and not accessible.

    if you carefully drill a hole in the side of the housing you can shine a light in and look, you can then workout where on the housing the pot is, and drill another hole right above that.

     

    I have a VDO voltmeter I adjusted in this way

    Tomorrow weather

    in MarineTalk

    Posted

    went down to westhaven last night about 2330. counted about 15 headsails unfurled and torn to shreds. Furled up someones on X that was half out.

     

    checked my boat and then got westhaven to let me in to check friends boats on another pier.

    Epirb Battery

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Yea. We have a similar situation at work. 200 for the approved battery replacement or 10 diy with no issues yet.

     

    I will certaintly be looking to replace the epirb battery myself when the time comes.

     

    I was very tempted to do DIY - we service electronics for work - so can certainly change a battery. 

    I paid the $260ish to have them do it - otherwise the date printed on the side of the epirb would be wrong.

     

    Turns out they just stuck a label maker sticker over the date with a new date..

     

    What sort of battery is inside?

    LED Navigation Bulbs

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    I have one of Matts fancy Anchor lights. It is as good as he says

     

    I would not put LED replacement in an existing filament socket - only for the reason that that connection always shits itself - spring contacts, salt air and all that. I've never had them last very long before you need to climb back up and jiggle it to make it go again :(

    In the navy

    in MarineTalk

    Posted

    I saw this today and it Pissed me right off.

     

    Steaming north thru tiri Channel. On the radio I hear "unidentified vessel on my port side, this is the new zealand warship. You are steaming into danger. Identify yourself and turn away or i will take action against you"

     

    So i call up and say.. do you mean me? Im 1nm away from you thats hardly danger. They do not respond, but repeat their demands. Then they start firing flares in my direction.

     

    Again i call them on the radio and ask them to describe the vessel they are talking about. There were 3+ navy vessels and a dozen other boats around.

     

    Eventually i hear on the radio "you are too close and we are opening fire" followed by some heavy gun shots echoing across the water.

     

    Numerous vessels called them on 16 to ask if it was safe to pass or what the deal was, including a dredger trying to get thru the channel. The navy did not respond to a single radio call.

     

    I think its poor form if they cant answer the radio...

    Float Charge current

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    What was the tail current when the  charger was still on absorbtion voltage?

    I suspect at 1.4A, no load, bats not 100%.

    Also need to check accuracy of that current with a clamp meter.

     

    Yes, I could check that current reading, but I suspect it is correct.  At full bulk charge it reads nearly bang on the rated current (39.7A) so I believe the current readout is correct on the charger. 

    Tail current - I've not watched for this - I'll have to sit and watch it next time. 

    First thing you need to do is get a digital meter and verify the Voltage.

     

    Sure - but the voltmeter on the charger display and the voltmeter in the BEP match - so I trust the voltage reading.   

     

    It could also be that the Battery was not at 100% charge. As the charge state increases, the battery resistance increases and this is actually what causes multi stage chargers to switch to the various stages.

     

    Is the regulator using a remote temp sensor fitted to the battery, or using an internal sensor. If internal, is the Reg in an area that gets the same ambient temperature as the Bank. As temperature rises, the charging voltage should drop. It sounds like it is doing that, but if the reg is not as warm as the Bank, then it may not be dropping enough. You can check that by measuring the temp at the bank. Then you need to do a little math. For every degC above 25dgC, you subtract 3.9mV per cell. So 6 cells for a 12V Battery. If the Boat is heating the bank up to say 30dgC, then the float voltage only wants to be 13.28V. It does not sound a lot, but it makes a big difference and that is why you need to make sure the voltages are actually correct with a digital meter.

     The Temp sensor is affixed with 3m sticky tape to the battery.  The charger gives a readout in degrees C of the battery temp - which goes up and down with the heat of the day - so the temp sensor is working :)

     

    Laterals 0.5A float seems closer to what I would expect. Would plate sulfation cause excess float current?

     

    You don't need a Bus bar, connect the Solar Reg Neg output directly to the shunt terminal if you can. That's the terminal that feeds the Boat, not the terminal on the battery side of the Shunt. Connecting directly at the shunt on the same terminal as the feed, allows the best possible reading accuracy via the Reg.

    The positive supply from the reg can go directly to the battery, although I prefer connections on the battery side of the Isolator switch. Terminals on the battery are more prone to corrosion. It is good practice to fit a Fuse or Circuit breaker at this connection point. Remember that the wire is connected directly to a very impressive energy source that would simply melt the wire if a short ever developed anywhere between it and the Reg.

    Oh and make sure you have a decent current capacity cable running from the Reg to the battery. 40A is a sizable amount of current. So OK, you won't get the full 40A, but lets say you have 20A or more. There can be a sizable voltage drop in the cable if it is too light a gauge and as you see with the voltage changes being so small, it can dramatically upset charging accuracy.

    This is just because I already have too much connected to the load side of the shunt - heavy gauge cable for the windlass, the macerator, etc, there will be no thread left on the bolt on the shunt if I add another ring terminal!

     

    My charger is connected with only 1m of heavy wire (can't recall the size, but the cables were supplied by a marine sparky who asked what voltage, current, and length, - he chose the cable size).

     

    I haven't yet fused the charger - its on my list. (Need to work out what form of fuse holder/breaker will mount nicely in the space provided. )

     

    I should add this charge current seems to be consistently like this - Ie its not just started doing it. I've had the charger for a month and it seems whenever I come to the boat it is on float and sitting above 1A charging.

    Float Charge current

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    1.4a figure read off the charger display.  

    The Charger is currently connected directly to the battery (not via the shunt(I need to add a busbar first)) so the BEP reading is not much use. 

    The BEP reads 0, which would indicate that the 1.4a is not being supplied to a load but rather going into the battery itself. 

    Float Charge current

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    That 1.4a would probably include the always on loads - one BEP DC monitor and the always on feed to the stereo to remember the stations. Cant see either of those two drawing more than about 0.1A

    Float Charge current

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    Have recently added a new 3stage TBB charger(40A) from AA solar.

     

    It charges nicely. When it goes to float stage (13.4 +/- a tad for temperature sensor) It still shows a pretty constant 1.4ish amps going in.

     

    I had thought the current during float stage would be way down, less than half an amp.. but I dont know. Does approx 1.4A float current sound right?

     

    Bank is Flooded, 2x 230ah in parralel. Batterys approx 4 years old. Levels are good, plates are all covered.

    Windlass control options

    in TechTalk

    Posted

    i have coloured things in my chain every 10m....

     

     

    cost F all,   about to install the relay thing, styill going to run a wire tot he helm, not that keen on remotes, i am either going to be at the helm or up front while anchoring  where the foot controls are anyways

    Yeah I'm not really that fussed about a counter, I just want to be able to easily up down from both the bow and the helm. 

    Tiller steer boat, so I don't have anywhere easily reachable where I can still stand and see. So the wireless option sounds good to me.

     

    Lots of options infront of me now. Might start with the el cheapo remote and see how that goes.

     

    Thanks everyone

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