Winter
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Posts posted by Winter
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I have one of Matts fancy Anchor lights. It is as good as he says
I would not put LED replacement in an existing filament socket - only for the reason that that connection always shits itself - spring contacts, salt air and all that. I've never had them last very long before you need to climb back up and jiggle it to make it go again
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I have just had the battery in my GME EPIRB replaced.
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I saw this today and it Pissed me right off.
Steaming north thru tiri Channel. On the radio I hear "unidentified vessel on my port side, this is the new zealand warship. You are steaming into danger. Identify yourself and turn away or i will take action against you"
So i call up and say.. do you mean me? Im 1nm away from you thats hardly danger. They do not respond, but repeat their demands. Then they start firing flares in my direction.
Again i call them on the radio and ask them to describe the vessel they are talking about. There were 3+ navy vessels and a dozen other boats around.
Eventually i hear on the radio "you are too close and we are opening fire" followed by some heavy gun shots echoing across the water.
Numerous vessels called them on 16 to ask if it was safe to pass or what the deal was, including a dredger trying to get thru the channel. The navy did not respond to a single radio call.
I think its poor form if they cant answer the radio...
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I did not know I was not allowed to use my tiller pilot in the harbour..
Did anyone else know that?
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Tonights anchorage... no blue lights, but three boats without any anchorlight.
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I am away on the boat for a few weeks, cable is in the storage shed. How much are you after?
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Ive got some good 0183 cable. Cant remember if 22 or 24awg. Belden shipboard cable. Got about 1000ft of it so i can probably spare it
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I thought the most famous would have been Blade
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What was the tail current when the charger was still on absorbtion voltage?
I suspect at 1.4A, no load, bats not 100%.
Also need to check accuracy of that current with a clamp meter.
Yes, I could check that current reading, but I suspect it is correct. At full bulk charge it reads nearly bang on the rated current (39.7A) so I believe the current readout is correct on the charger.
Tail current - I've not watched for this - I'll have to sit and watch it next time.
First thing you need to do is get a digital meter and verify the Voltage.
Sure - but the voltmeter on the charger display and the voltmeter in the BEP match - so I trust the voltage reading.
It could also be that the Battery was not at 100% charge. As the charge state increases, the battery resistance increases and this is actually what causes multi stage chargers to switch to the various stages.
Is the regulator using a remote temp sensor fitted to the battery, or using an internal sensor. If internal, is the Reg in an area that gets the same ambient temperature as the Bank. As temperature rises, the charging voltage should drop. It sounds like it is doing that, but if the reg is not as warm as the Bank, then it may not be dropping enough. You can check that by measuring the temp at the bank. Then you need to do a little math. For every degC above 25dgC, you subtract 3.9mV per cell. So 6 cells for a 12V Battery. If the Boat is heating the bank up to say 30dgC, then the float voltage only wants to be 13.28V. It does not sound a lot, but it makes a big difference and that is why you need to make sure the voltages are actually correct with a digital meter.
The Temp sensor is affixed with 3m sticky tape to the battery. The charger gives a readout in degrees C of the battery temp - which goes up and down with the heat of the day - so the temp sensor is working
Laterals 0.5A float seems closer to what I would expect. Would plate sulfation cause excess float current?
You don't need a Bus bar, connect the Solar Reg Neg output directly to the shunt terminal if you can. That's the terminal that feeds the Boat, not the terminal on the battery side of the Shunt. Connecting directly at the shunt on the same terminal as the feed, allows the best possible reading accuracy via the Reg.
The positive supply from the reg can go directly to the battery, although I prefer connections on the battery side of the Isolator switch. Terminals on the battery are more prone to corrosion. It is good practice to fit a Fuse or Circuit breaker at this connection point. Remember that the wire is connected directly to a very impressive energy source that would simply melt the wire if a short ever developed anywhere between it and the Reg.
Oh and make sure you have a decent current capacity cable running from the Reg to the battery. 40A is a sizable amount of current. So OK, you won't get the full 40A, but lets say you have 20A or more. There can be a sizable voltage drop in the cable if it is too light a gauge and as you see with the voltage changes being so small, it can dramatically upset charging accuracy.
This is just because I already have too much connected to the load side of the shunt - heavy gauge cable for the windlass, the macerator, etc, there will be no thread left on the bolt on the shunt if I add another ring terminal!
My charger is connected with only 1m of heavy wire (can't recall the size, but the cables were supplied by a marine sparky who asked what voltage, current, and length, - he chose the cable size).
I haven't yet fused the charger - its on my list. (Need to work out what form of fuse holder/breaker will mount nicely in the space provided. )
I should add this charge current seems to be consistently like this - Ie its not just started doing it. I've had the charger for a month and it seems whenever I come to the boat it is on float and sitting above 1A charging.
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1.4a figure read off the charger display.
The Charger is currently connected directly to the battery (not via the shunt(I need to add a busbar first)) so the BEP reading is not much use.
The BEP reads 0, which would indicate that the 1.4a is not being supplied to a load but rather going into the battery itself.
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That 1.4a would probably include the always on loads - one BEP DC monitor and the always on feed to the stereo to remember the stations. Cant see either of those two drawing more than about 0.1A
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Have recently added a new 3stage TBB charger(40A) from AA solar.
It charges nicely. When it goes to float stage (13.4 +/- a tad for temperature sensor) It still shows a pretty constant 1.4ish amps going in.
I had thought the current during float stage would be way down, less than half an amp.. but I dont know. Does approx 1.4A float current sound right?
Bank is Flooded, 2x 230ah in parralel. Batterys approx 4 years old. Levels are good, plates are all covered.
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i have coloured things in my chain every 10m....
cost F all, about to install the relay thing, styill going to run a wire tot he helm, not that keen on remotes, i am either going to be at the helm or up front while anchoring where the foot controls are anyways
Yeah I'm not really that fussed about a counter, I just want to be able to easily up down from both the bow and the helm.
Tiller steer boat, so I don't have anywhere easily reachable where I can still stand and see. So the wireless option sounds good to me.
Lots of options infront of me now. Might start with the el cheapo remote and see how that goes.
Thanks everyone
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I have the same question, but for the Zeus2, which doesn't have a sonar port. I already have speed/depth/temp.
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I have a wireless Auto anchor unit ,its a fantastic thing and has a chain counter.
Saved our butt from dragging numb nuts at least once , paid for itself 10 times over.
I like the idea... can you say how much it cost?
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Thanks Island time. those looks cheap enough I will try them out and see how it goes.
The lewmar remote is waterproof, and floats. that seems like a good idea. but not a $700 good idea.
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My windlass is currently setup with a dinky up down switch feeding the relay.
The dinky switch has to go, to be replaced with a pendant.. corded or wireless.
Where can I buy a pendant? I see lewmar want around 700 bitcoin for their wireless gizmo.
Also, on a charter boat I had recently, their windlass had a soft start/stop thing where it ramped up to operating speed. Seems much nicer. Can that be retrofitted to an exsisting windlass?
I have the lewmar pro series 1000.
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The cruise ships will already have tugs on hand to park them... so they already have a boat handy to drop someone onto the dolphin 10mins before the ship arrives..
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For the vhf, b&g v50. You can get a wireless handset for it which is really usefull, and it has a built in AIS reciever
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What's the consensus on kwiseal by Henley. A little more expensive that the old one but looks good. And available at GH.
Thats what I put in. Only been in the water 2 weeks so I can't really comment yet. Looks very nicely built.
The guys at Henleys knew their stuff and were very helpful, and I do like the fact I can go in there and ask them if I have any issues..
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There will be a nut on the end of the shaft. This nut will be the next size up from any sockets you own. You will then go purchase the larger socket to find you also need the larger ratchet to put it on.
After going back to get the larger ratchet you will still not get it undone as it will be tighter than anything you have seen before.
If you do get it off, it may take a lot more force than a hammer to get the whole thing off the tapered shaft.. mine took a hydraulic jack and a little jig to get it off..
Good luck
i just did mine -
IMO the drive unit looks OK, and is cheap enough. Easy to hook up to a raymarine or B&G pilot to have a full function pilot though - that's what I'd do. No need for actisense for nmea 2k interface, electronics below deck, good features with a Triton pilot - jybe prevention, great wind angle steering, pitch roll and yaw correction etc.
This interests me, because id like to try the triton pilot but on a tiller steer boat there are not many options. Sd10 but thats about $1000 too much. So maybe the b&g pilot and a cheaper drive like this? Plus a rfu and precision9 compass?
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It seems to me that engine designers build their engines to sit nicely on its four legs. Then yachties come along and hang a humungous belt driven compressor on one side and probably throw the whole engine installation out of balance. When I replaced the engine mounts recently I did notice that the mounts on the compressor side were a lot worse than the ones on the other side.
Or does it have to do with the direction of rotation of your engine? One side an upward force the other a downward?
Fizz Nasty cuts a boat (almost) in half, carries on.
in MarineTalk
Posted
not charged with failing to stop or similar?