Jump to content

Sudden5869

Members
  • Content Count

    116
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by Sudden5869

  1. Blue painted topsides, 2 pot AWLGRIP 2000.  I've been using Grunt Klenashine to prepare.  Very lightly, not to remove all of the blue goodness. 
    Then polish with Grunt Supawax.  Use a wool buffer with some success, otherwise resort to polishing off by hand.    Local boat painter provided some guidance a few years back.  
    It's always hard work, but super satisfying.  

  2. I would imagine the Ronstan 50 would be fine on the Cav 32 mainsail reefing.  It's a small main.  MWL 500kg and BL of 1,500kg.  If everything is lined up correctly and not twisted.  

    Low friction rings would be ideal too.  Make sure they're nice and big to accommodate the reefing lines etc... You just need to get familiar with soft shackles and loops.  

  3. 20 hours ago, Deep Purple said:

    And throw Fantail into the mix as it was a very pretty boat

    Fantail is perfect.  I remember being passed by Fantail when I was a kid in a Round Waiheke Race.  It looked perfect then and still looked immaculate in Bon Accord Harbour last summer. 
    Some of the best proportioned yachts ever designed.  

  4. We installed B&G Triton2 with Wireless Wind Transducer last year.  Sourced from Neptunes Gear.  It replaced broken and beyond repair Nexus system with wireless.  I had already replaced the battery and bearingss. 

    The B&G wireless had excellent range.  The specs were better than Garmin.   Also someone from Garmin's agent expressed concern about Auckland Sky Tower interfering with Garmin wireless transducers.  B&G was confident about wireless performance.  

    Installation was easy considering.  Did spend over an hour at the top of the mast drilling and fitting the mounting plate.  Then simply click in the transducer.  Plan, prepare and test on the ground before getting in the bosuns chair.  

    So the far the Wireless Wind Transducer has been great.  Information is quick and seamless with the Triton2 instruments (and Vulcan).  No regrets.  

    The B&G Triton2 with the Vulcan Plotter works well together.  Sometimes I don't like the numbers, but that's my sailing! 

    Cheers    
     

    • Upvote 1
  5. I'm stoked with the B&G great provided by Matt at Neptunes Gear.  
    Installed Triton2 Speed/Depth/Wind pack (Wireless) with additional Triton2 displays, and 9" Vulcan.

    Customisation and easy to read. All good.  

  6. Hey CD 

    2:1 Halyard on the main is brilliant.  We changed Oliver Sudden to 2:1 shortly after going Square Top.  Less load on the rope and clutches + less slippage.  Easier to hoist.  
    Dog bone to the top of the crane as close to the existing sheave exit position.  Works well and doesn't affect the head position.  

    I've flicked you a direct message with some images on the set-up of our "hinged headboard".  Not removing the top batten.  Perhaps that helps.  

    Cheers

  7. The lifelines on Oliver are Dyneema "Supercable" from CRA (via SailIQ). 

    They still look great after two years of regular use.  No sign of wear.  Being thin enough to pull through and remove the lifelines to repair stanchions is a bonus too.   

    Recommend getting CRA, rigger or splicing specialist to splice at required length.  4mm Supercable is not an easy splice.  

  8. 10 hours ago, Island Time said:

    Might be a good time to update it. $2600 for a B&G wireless (mast unit, rest is wired) Triton 2 depth/speed/wind pack. Comes with masthead unit, receiver, Triton 2 display, N2k starter kit, DST (depth speed temp) thru hull. 

    @ballystick Oliver Sudden was having ongoing troubles with our Nexus wind, then depth.... ran without instruments for nearly a year.
    IT supplied a B&G system, and it's great.  Super easy to read. Plenty of information / display options.  

    • Like 1
  9. 3 hours ago, whitepointer said:

    Thanks all for the info, sounds like strata clean will be my choice, I’ve been on the hard at pine harbour for the week, be great to be back afloat tomorrow, 

    Hey Brian. Be keen to hear about and see the results. Cheers

  10. 3 hours ago, Knot Me... maybe said:

    A soft shackle with attached LF eye for use in 2:1 halyards.

    m_20200202181001501.png

    Exactly Knot Me

    We run this sort of arrangement on the main for Oliver Sudden, Young 10/34. A fairly large square top.  Made the Soft Shackle as small as possible to ensure full hoist.  

    The 2:1 is fantastic.  Easier to hoist and reduced any clutch slippage.  

    Only downside is the mass of rope when hoisted.   

  11. It's all new ply.  9mm Meranti from Plytech https://www.plytech.co.nz/meranti-bs1088
    The floor boards required 2 sheets of 2440 x 1220 for the Oliver Sudden.  I purchased 3 sheets, and using the 3rd sheet for other projects.   

    Looked at a few options to replace the original Holy and Teak floors.  They were delaminating after 35 years of hard service.  They were beyond repair. 
    9mm is probably marginal for floor boards, but adjusting the thickness required too many modifications.  So sticking with the 9mm and some carefully placed extra thickness / reinforcing.  

    Looked at Holy and Teak, $1,000 a sheet.  Too pricing and the new veneer finish isn't gonna match the ages and sun-faded Teak trim on-board. 
    Also looked at this recycable synthetic honeycomb from Plytech as an option too.  Would have been much quicker, albeit a little industrial looking. 

    So tried a couple of other Marine ply samples and Meranti wasn't too bad.  A little bit darker / reddish than teak interior.   Thought I'd try to paint some lines as a nod to the old school Holy and Teak look. 

    Here's the Process.... 

    • Take the original floorboards and trace with a router with router bit and bearing / I used 10mm.  Simple, just take your time.  You want to line up the floor boards and grain.  
    • Marked out the exact location of the Holy Lines with a pencil.  They all line up, so this needs to be accurate.
    • 4 seal coats of Norski Epoxy Timber Sealer
    • Sanded and cleaned. 
    • Mask up the "Holy Lines" with masking tape.  I used a few and found ScotchBlue Sharp Lines to be the best.  
    • Painted the Holy Lines with 2 Pack White Under-coat.  
    • Try to get the White Lines done in a couple of days, otherwise the masking tape will be a PITA with residue.
    • Varnish 6 coats

    For the varnish I used a Satin Single Pack I've used in the interior already.  I seems to be tough enough.  
    I'm not a fan of buying from Bunnings and supporting the West Island, but this stuff seems good.  Bondall 1L Monocel Clear Satin Gold Marine Grade Timber Varnish.

    I've been damn lucky with the fine weather for varnishing.  Hopefully it looks all good when we can finally get back onboard.  

    Floor3.jpg

    • Upvote 1
  12. Yip.  I've mentioned this before... lifelines on Oliver are now Dyneema "Supercable"  Perhaps ask the guys at Chain Ropes and Anchors to splice to the correct length.  It's small and very tricky.  

     

    Light weight.  Easy on the Hands.  And the best bit is; if the lifelines need to be removed to maintain stanchions, simply pull the line through.  No cutting swaged wire rope... 

  13. Ditto on the Raven 26 and Reactor. Especially for open water.

    Reactors seem to be holding up well with fibreglass construction method limiting the opportunity for osmosis.

    Happy hunting

  14. Ditto on the Raven 26 and Reactor. Especially for open water.

    Reactors seem to be holding up well with fibreglass construction method limiting the opportunity for osmosis.

    Happy hunting

  15. That sux. Hope it comes back, love that app. Its what the cg app should have been

     

    Exactly.  WindDan was great to checking the all of the NowCasting conditions at once. 

     

    Hopefully CoastGuard will pick up the idea at some stage.  

×
×
  • Create New...