Damienmumu

Thank you for your advices! I have a solar regular but I understand it is a cheapy: https://guide.alibaba.com/shop/gxg-1987-cmp-12-20a-12v-24v-solar-charge-controller-solar-control-regulator-solar-panel-battery-regulator_1026293016.html I guess it would pay I install a better one... any advice on brand or model... for resonable budget? I had a 50AH battery that seemed sufficient at the time connected to a 20W solar panel. I am wondering if I should keep 50ah capacity or should up it to 75ah. Also should I better invest in an AGM battery rather than wet-cell? I run: VHF, sma

Hi, While service my trailer sailer I found my deep cycle battery was no longer holding my the charge. After extracting from the boat, I realised there is no fluid left in the battery and it was kept on the solar panel. Do you think it is permanently damaged or shall I try fill it with demineralised water and see if battery is still fine. If it is considered dead, shall I look at purchasing a sealed battery?? Thanks for your help. Damien

Thank you all for your suggestions. Hull was pretty badly painted by previous owner. I ended up doing a few coats of undercoats and then the yellow top coats with a yellow that does not match at all the hull colour. I think the next step would be to repaint entirely the hull to do a decent job. Matching colour from the auto paint shop is a great idea I am keeping. Thank you again. Damien

Hi, I am currently finishing some winter restoration jobs on my trailer sailer Farr 6000. I have 2 main questions: Painting a repair to hull: I had to repair the hull with some Ados Marine filler (photo attached... still need finish sanding!). I went to Burnsco to buy some paint. They adviced 3 different types of paints to apply: 1st primer, 2nd undercoat, 3rd topcoat yellow. Since I am only fixing a patch and my boat does not have a very flash paint job on the hull, do I really need to apply these 3 different coats? I defiitely need the topcoat as the hull is bright yellow. But c

Hi, I have just changed my whole carburetor. The engine runs sweet but finding out it does not want to return to idle by itself only if I block the air intake for a few seconds. I am confident the idle is set properly as it idle well once air intake blocked a bit. Any idea how it can return well to idle by itself? Thanks.

Looking for a replacement outboard 6hp 4 stroke (preferably) to propel my Farr 6000. Anyone would have a good used one for sale? Thank you. Damien PS: the carb of my 2005 Mercury 6hp 4 stroke is shot and apparently not worth fixing...

Thanks for all your advises. I know I am certainly facing the fact that I will have to take them off to re-seal and fix them properly, but being at the start of the season I was keen to push this project to next winter. The boat concerned is a Farr 6000. The base plate bolts go through the deck with a nut below on the cabin side. I suspect there is timber embedded in the deck fibreglass and I do not know how is this timber... this is where I am worried to get into a big job... in saying that the stanchions are still feeling sturdy I cannot see them going anywhere. So for now I was hoping

Hi, The stanchions base of my Farr 6000 are looking a little dodgy. I inspected them and they do not seem to leak through into the cabin. Though there has been a few repairs and added screws in the past from what I can see and I am worried all this is not very waterproof. To do well I should take them out (one is a little wobbly) and re-do the base but I do not want to get on such a big job yet... meanwhile for the next season or 2 I was keen to lay a sealant around the base plate and on the screws. I have some Selleys All Clear Co-polymer sealant (from harware store) that seem to be a prod

thanks for the tip Vorpal Blade. do you have a brand of glue in mind?

do you where to source the Autex Flex 2? We would like to choose colours if possible Thanks,

I got into grinding the floor and ended up on a little piece of wood which makes the support between the hull and the floor. I decided to get rid of it and restart clean to rebuild a proper well finished join between hull and floor. So I need to replace this wood bit (which only small probably 700-800mm long by 50-60mm high). Would Kwila from the timber yard do the job? I was thinking of fixing it back on the hull with epoxy filler.

Hi, I am looking at relining my Farr 6000 interior and understand the best product is Autex Flex range with no baking. Could anyone please advise where to buy this lining knowing I am based in MArlborough but I can order online? Also if anyone has a better alternative to Autex Flex and cheaper, I am happy to hear about it? Thanks, Damien

Thanks KM! Some great tips there!

Hi, 2 years after purchasing my Farr 6000, I decided to start refurbishing some parts of the inside before summer. Today we started ripped things out, the old carpet wall lining desintegrating in dust and some other bits. 1. As we took out a board on the floor behind below the cockpit and supporting the battery, we discovered a crack across the whole width of the floor. please see photos attached (boat crack, boat crack 4). Question: it seems quite significant but we wonder if it needs attention or not and if put the boat structure at risk??? What would be the type of repair needed...?

So it needs to be treated pine I guess. is it better to seal it with Linseed oil rather than varnish?

Sorry I was off the forum for a few days. thank you all for your good advices. I think my first quick fix will be to cut it off shorter for the rest of the season then make a new one over the winter. It seems hard to find hardwood timber of different shapes and sizes around. Is it only found at boat repairers? Thanks again all for your input much appreciated. I am sure I will be in touch soon for further questions! Damien

Finally manged to download photos! Looking forward to reading your advices. Thank you.

Hi, On my last trip, the henging end of my Farr 6000 tiller broke. I temporarely fixed it with duct tape and was safe but now I am wondering if there is any way I could fix or sould I rather replace it which could be a costly exercice...?

Thank you Myjane. I think I am getting quite well prepared now!

Now, while my little 4 stroke 6hp Mercury outboard is running sweet, I am still planning to give it a service... myself. Is it good idea or wise to bring it to Mercury agent? It seems fairly straight forward at least for the engine and gear box oil and I guess grease all required points as indicated on manual. Would there be anything else to check like greasing propeller axle or cleaning up/greasing other parts? I was also planning to get a spare spark plug just in case. is it worth it? Cheers, Damien

Thank you Fish. For the rudder... decision taken, I am bringing it to Norski tomorrow to get it repaired, they can do it this week, perfect. I appreciate your safety advises as it is most important after all. For the electrical system, it is not new but generally tidy at least for the panel... I will check phone charger and get Matt to look at over all system in January. For the solar panel, I know understand now it is not a great panel...! Thanks again!

Thank you Fish. Here are a few photos I have just taken tonight. Actually I thought I drained all the water but I can still hear slushing in the rudder... Below are photos showing when tip the rubber back, you can see water drain at the fron of rubber. it is only coming out in one point, not sure how long is the opening/split though as water runs along the edge: I am unsure what the Farr 6000 rudders are made of though... Electrical panel... old school: Solar panel regulator: Battery: Solar panel:

Thanks heaps Matt. You are right we have had a good discussion last year which led to the purchase of the F6! I am loving it though I am still learning everything. I am trying to crew as much as I can on Tuesday night twilight series which gives me good practical training. If I am not wrong Ian is your dad, right? I did see him again the other day and thanked him for his kind help. For the rudder, I am worried now and so I need to act quickly if I want to use the boat over Christmas/NY... Do you have good suggestions? Could I fix it myself? Is the idea of fitting screw and nut across

thanks all for your inputs. Rudder worries me now... not sure what it involves to repair that (water infiltrating inside). Would it be a good idea to secure the 2 halves parts with stainless screws and nuts to hold it together for the rest of the summer season?? Is it best to bring it to a boat repairer? Shall I send you photos? Outboard auxiliary: I have a 6hp Mercury 4 stroke from 2005. Mechanically as new (said by repairer) and I have just got the electrical box replaced as it was faulty... since then it does not miss a beat. But with a family of 2 young kids, I still wonder if it w

Hi, Leaving in Marlborough and after having extensive chats on Crew.org last year I have finally bought my first trailer yacht, a Farr 6000. So pleased with it. Thank you for all the precious advices. Now, I am planning to make some improvements, list as follow: - looking to make some sea legs to go to Abel Tasman and beach it. I cannot find any helpful design to show how to make some. Has anyone got photos of good exemples or advices to offer? - I am after an auxiliary outboard just in case my main outboard fails. Do I adsolutely need a long shaft one? I am after a second hand 3hp b