Damienmumu

Thank you for your advices! I have a solar regular but I understand it is a cheapy: https://guide.alibaba.com/shop/gxg-1987-cmp-12-20a-12v-24v-solar-charge-controller-solar-control-regulator-solar-panel-battery-regulator_1026293016.html I guess it would pay I install a better one... any advice on brand or model... for resonable budget? I had a 50AH battery that seemed sufficient at the time connected to a 20W solar panel. I am wondering if I should keep 50ah capacity or should up it to 75ah. Also should I better invest in an AGM battery rather than wet-cell? I run: VHF, sma

Hi, While service my trailer sailer I found my deep cycle battery was no longer holding my the charge. After extracting from the boat, I realised there is no fluid left in the battery and it was kept on the solar panel. Do you think it is permanently damaged or shall I try fill it with demineralised water and see if battery is still fine. If it is considered dead, shall I look at purchasing a sealed battery?? Thanks for your help. Damien

Thank you all for your suggestions. Hull was pretty badly painted by previous owner. I ended up doing a few coats of undercoats and then the yellow top coats with a yellow that does not match at all the hull colour. I think the next step would be to repaint entirely the hull to do a decent job. Matching colour from the auto paint shop is a great idea I am keeping. Thank you again. Damien

Hi, I am currently finishing some winter restoration jobs on my trailer sailer Farr 6000. I have 2 main questions: Painting a repair to hull: I had to repair the hull with some Ados Marine filler (photo attached... still need finish sanding!). I went to Burnsco to buy some paint. They adviced 3 different types of paints to apply: 1st primer, 2nd undercoat, 3rd topcoat yellow. Since I am only fixing a patch and my boat does not have a very flash paint job on the hull, do I really need to apply these 3 different coats? I defiitely need the topcoat as the hull is bright yellow. But c

Hi, I have just changed my whole carburetor. The engine runs sweet but finding out it does not want to return to idle by itself only if I block the air intake for a few seconds. I am confident the idle is set properly as it idle well once air intake blocked a bit. Any idea how it can return well to idle by itself? Thanks.

Looking for a replacement outboard 6hp 4 stroke (preferably) to propel my Farr 6000. Anyone would have a good used one for sale? Thank you. Damien PS: the carb of my 2005 Mercury 6hp 4 stroke is shot and apparently not worth fixing...

Thanks for all your advises. I know I am certainly facing the fact that I will have to take them off to re-seal and fix them properly, but being at the start of the season I was keen to push this project to next winter. The boat concerned is a Farr 6000. The base plate bolts go through the deck with a nut below on the cabin side. I suspect there is timber embedded in the deck fibreglass and I do not know how is this timber... this is where I am worried to get into a big job... in saying that the stanchions are still feeling sturdy I cannot see them going anywhere. So for now I was hoping

Hi, The stanchions base of my Farr 6000 are looking a little dodgy. I inspected them and they do not seem to leak through into the cabin. Though there has been a few repairs and added screws in the past from what I can see and I am worried all this is not very waterproof. To do well I should take them out (one is a little wobbly) and re-do the base but I do not want to get on such a big job yet... meanwhile for the next season or 2 I was keen to lay a sealant around the base plate and on the screws. I have some Selleys All Clear Co-polymer sealant (from harware store) that seem to be a prod

thanks for the tip Vorpal Blade. do you have a brand of glue in mind?

do you where to source the Autex Flex 2? We would like to choose colours if possible Thanks,

I got into grinding the floor and ended up on a little piece of wood which makes the support between the hull and the floor. I decided to get rid of it and restart clean to rebuild a proper well finished join between hull and floor. So I need to replace this wood bit (which only small probably 700-800mm long by 50-60mm high). Would Kwila from the timber yard do the job? I was thinking of fixing it back on the hull with epoxy filler.

Hi, I am looking at relining my Farr 6000 interior and understand the best product is Autex Flex range with no baking. Could anyone please advise where to buy this lining knowing I am based in MArlborough but I can order online? Also if anyone has a better alternative to Autex Flex and cheaper, I am happy to hear about it? Thanks, Damien

Thanks KM! Some great tips there!

Hi, 2 years after purchasing my Farr 6000, I decided to start refurbishing some parts of the inside before summer. Today we started ripped things out, the old carpet wall lining desintegrating in dust and some other bits. 1. As we took out a board on the floor behind below the cockpit and supporting the battery, we discovered a crack across the whole width of the floor. please see photos attached (boat crack, boat crack 4). Question: it seems quite significant but we wonder if it needs attention or not and if put the boat structure at risk??? What would be the type of repair needed...?

So it needs to be treated pine I guess. is it better to seal it with Linseed oil rather than varnish?