Damienmumu
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Posts posted by Damienmumu
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Hi,
While service my trailer sailer I found my deep cycle battery was no longer holding my the charge.
After extracting from the boat, I realised there is no fluid left in the battery and it was kept on the solar panel.
Do you think it is permanently damaged or shall I try fill it with demineralised water and see if battery is still fine.
If it is considered dead, shall I look at purchasing a sealed battery??
Thanks for your help.
Damien
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Thank you all for your suggestions.
Hull was pretty badly painted by previous owner. I ended up doing a few coats of undercoats and then the yellow top coats with a yellow that does not match at all the hull colour. I think the next step would be to repaint entirely the hull to do a decent job.
Matching colour from the auto paint shop is a great idea I am keeping.
Thank you again.
Damien
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Hi,
I am currently finishing some winter restoration jobs on my trailer sailer Farr 6000. I have 2 main questions:
- Painting a repair to hull: I had to repair the hull with some Ados Marine filler (photo attached... still need finish sanding!). I went to Burnsco to buy some paint. They adviced 3 different types of paints to apply: 1st primer, 2nd undercoat, 3rd topcoat yellow. Since I am only fixing a patch and my boat does not have a very flash paint job on the hull, do I really need to apply these 3 different coats? I defiitely need the topcoat as the hull is bright yellow. But could I go straight from primer to topcoat? How many coats of each??
- Gelcoat repair: since it is an old boat, I have quite a few patches of the deck gelcoat that need some repairs. I have been advised to apply some Ados Marine filler (Vinylester), sand it to a smooth finish once dry and paint over it since the filler is pink (see photos of my repairs). The thing is I feel that every patch of paint will be very visible by contrast with the old gelcoat next to it... Should I instead look at applying some gelcoat with a brush or a small roller? Is there a way to match the original gel coat colour or at least close to?
I have attached a few photos to illustrate my questions.
Thank you in advance for your help.
Damien
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Hi,
I have just changed my whole carburetor. The engine runs sweet but finding out it does not want to return to idle by itself only if I block the air intake for a few seconds. I am confident the idle is set properly as it idle well once air intake blocked a bit.
Any idea how it can return well to idle by itself? Thanks.
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Looking for a replacement outboard 6hp 4 stroke (preferably) to propel my Farr 6000.
Anyone would have a good used one for sale?
Thank you.
Damien
PS: the carb of my 2005 Mercury 6hp 4 stroke is shot and apparently not worth fixing...
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Thanks for all your advises. I know I am certainly facing the fact that I will have to take them off to re-seal and fix them properly, but being at the start of the season I was keen to push this project to next winter.
The boat concerned is a Farr 6000. The base plate bolts go through the deck with a nut below on the cabin side. I suspect there is timber embedded in the deck fibreglass and I do not know how is this timber... this is where I am worried to get into a big job... in saying that the stanchions are still feeling sturdy I cannot see them going anywhere.
So for now I was hoping a wee bit of sealant above deck would help me for another few months...
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Hi,
The stanchions base of my Farr 6000 are looking a little dodgy. I inspected them and they do not seem to leak through into the cabin. Though there has been a few repairs and added screws in the past from what I can see and I am worried all this is not very waterproof. To do well I should take them out (one is a little wobbly) and re-do the base but I do not want to get on such a big job yet...
meanwhile for the next season or 2 I was keen to lay a sealant around the base plate and on the screws.
I have some Selleys All Clear Co-polymer sealant (from harware store) that seem to be a product (not silicone). Should I use that? Any other good advice?
Thanks in advance.
Damien
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thanks for the tip Vorpal Blade.
do you have a brand of glue in mind?
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do you where to source the Autex Flex 2? We would like to choose colours if possible
Thanks,
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I got into grinding the floor and ended up on a little piece of wood which makes the support between the hull and the floor. I decided to get rid of it and restart clean to rebuild a proper well finished join between hull and floor.
So I need to replace this wood bit (which only small probably 700-800mm long by 50-60mm high). Would Kwila from the timber yard do the job? I was thinking of fixing it back on the hull with epoxy filler.
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Hi,
I am looking at relining my Farr 6000 interior and understand the best product is Autex Flex range with no baking.
Could anyone please advise where to buy this lining knowing I am based in MArlborough but I can order online?
Also if anyone has a better alternative to Autex Flex and cheaper, I am happy to hear about it?
Thanks,
Damien
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Thanks KM!
Some great tips there!
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Hi,
2 years after purchasing my Farr 6000, I decided to start refurbishing some parts of the inside before summer.
Today we started ripped things out, the old carpet wall lining desintegrating in dust and some other bits.
1. As we took out a board on the floor behind below the cockpit and supporting the battery, we discovered a crack across the whole width of the floor. please see photos attached (boat crack, boat crack 4).
Question: it seems quite significant but we wonder if it needs attention or not and if put the boat structure at risk??? What would be the type of repair needed...?
2. There is another wee crack at the level of the bulkhead that was roughly fixed by a previous owner... would this need to be reviewed...? the brown filling/seal seen on photo is hard. see attached photos (boat crack 5, boat crack 6)
3. Now we have the boat old lining taken out, the redish adhesive is left on the wall, what is the best way to take it out and prepare the surface for new lining? see attached photos (old lining adhesive)
4. electrical cable have been left quite loose around the boat. What is best way to duct or tack them cleanily around the boat?
5. Finally, I want to repaint, possibly varnish the companionway and the hard grooves/slot screwed on the cabin exterior. I have not yet tried to unscrew it, but I wanted to know how the gently remove the hardwood piece without damaging it knowing it is certainly glued with some sealant which is 40 years old probably...? see attached photo (companionway hardwood slot)
Thanks in advance for all your precious help!
Damien (located in Marlborough)
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So it needs to be treated pine I guess. is it better to seal it with Linseed oil rather than varnish?
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Sorry I was off the forum for a few days. thank you all for your good advices.
I think my first quick fix will be to cut it off shorter for the rest of the season then make a new one over the winter.
It seems hard to find hardwood timber of different shapes and sizes around. Is it only found at boat repairers?
Thanks again all for your input much appreciated.
I am sure I will be in touch soon for further questions!
Damien
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Finally manged to download photos!
Looking forward to reading your advices.
Thank you.
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Hi,
On my last trip, the henging end of my Farr 6000 tiller broke. I temporarely fixed it with duct tape and was safe but now I am wondering if there is any way I could fix or sould I rather replace it which could be a costly exercice...?
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Thank you Myjane. I think I am getting quite well prepared now!
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Now, while my little 4 stroke 6hp Mercury outboard is running sweet, I am still planning to give it a service... myself.
Is it good idea or wise to bring it to Mercury agent?
It seems fairly straight forward at least for the engine and gear box oil and I guess grease all required points as indicated on manual.
Would there be anything else to check like greasing propeller axle or cleaning up/greasing other parts?
I was also planning to get a spare spark plug just in case. is it worth it?
Cheers,
Damien
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Thank you Fish.
For the rudder... decision taken, I am bringing it to Norski tomorrow to get it repaired, they can do it this week, perfect.
I appreciate your safety advises as it is most important after all.
For the electrical system, it is not new but generally tidy at least for the panel... I will check phone charger and get Matt to look at over all system in January.
For the solar panel, I know understand now it is not a great panel...!
Thanks again!
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Thank you Fish.
Here are a few photos I have just taken tonight. Actually I thought I drained all the water but I can still hear slushing in the rudder...
Below are photos showing when tip the rubber back, you can see water drain at the fron of rubber. it is only coming out in one point, not sure how long is the opening/split though as water runs along the edge:
I am unsure what the Farr 6000 rudders are made of though...
Electrical panel... old school:
Solar panel regulator:
Battery:
Solar panel:
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Thanks heaps Matt.
You are right we have had a good discussion last year which led to the purchase of the F6! I am loving it though I am still learning everything. I am trying to crew as much as I can on Tuesday night twilight series which gives me good practical training.
If I am not wrong Ian is your dad, right?
I did see him again the other day and thanked him for his kind help.
For the rudder, I am worried now and so I need to act quickly if I want to use the boat over Christmas/NY... Do you have good suggestions? Could I fix it myself? Is the idea of fitting screw and nut across the blade to keep both parts together good? Or shall I bring it to a boat repairer? If yes, would you know of a good one and who could get things done prior to Xmas????!!!!
For the electrical and checking the overall condition of the boat, I would really be keen to show it to you to make sure all is sound and make a list of repair/upgrades.
thank you Matt.
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thanks all for your inputs.
Rudder worries me now... not sure what it involves to repair that (water infiltrating inside). Would it be a good idea to secure the 2 halves parts with stainless screws and nuts to hold it together for the rest of the summer season?? Is it best to bring it to a boat repairer? Shall I send you photos?
Outboard auxiliary: I have a 6hp Mercury 4 stroke from 2005. Mechanically as new (said by repairer) and I have just got the electrical box replaced as it was faulty... since then it does not miss a beat. But with a family of 2 young kids, I still wonder if it would not be a great idea to have a wee auxiliary just in case? For the ours, why not but never used some on a bigger boat so would not know how to fit them... and this seems exhausting lwith family worried on board...
I thought 3hp as an emergency solution would still help us get home... slowly??
Electrical system/phone charging: phone is definitely in good condition no doubt here. My yacht electrical system is house battery brand new deep cycle (45 or 60 Amp can't remember), all connections are looking good on boat. I have 4 plugs, they all do the same... May have to check the charger itself...
BTW, I have a 20W solar panel, my battery currently reads 12.6V. I have told it is charged at 13.7V. How long would it take the solar panel (under nice sunshine) to bring it up to full charge?
Sea/beaching legs: Farr 6000 do not have a flat bottom so legs would be required. thanks for the links as I could not find them. I am still hoping I can find a simple design for this yacht type. I am hoping not to drill/modify boat to fit them if possible...
I have been told that Farr trailer yacht association does not run anymore. I have sent an email months ago to become member but never had a reply and payment was not working... it is very unfortunate as I was hoping to find a ton of information on it...
Thanks all for keeping the topic going.
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Hi,
Leaving in Marlborough and after having extensive chats on Crew.org last year I have finally bought my first trailer yacht, a Farr 6000. So pleased with it. Thank you for all the precious advices.
Now, I am planning to make some improvements, list as follow:
- looking to make some sea legs to go to Abel Tasman and beach it. I cannot find any helpful design to show how to make some. Has anyone got photos of good exemples or advices to offer?
- I am after an auxiliary outboard just in case my main outboard fails. Do I adsolutely need a long shaft one? I am after a second hand 3hp but hard to find in long shaft...
- I am planning to take out some hardwares to sand and re-varnish (rails, companion way). What is the best sealant to refit hardware?
- Rudder: when I take it out to put it in cabin for storage, when I tip it up-side down, water come out from the inside. I understand the rudder is made of 2 half place glued together... should I worry of water infiltrating inside these 2 halves of the rudder?
- Electrical system is OK but not really tidy. I have tried to charge my phone the other day but the charge keeps on coming on and off (not continuous charge). Would any one have a good, simple design, layout to rework wiring and control panel with tips on on material (wire, ....) to use and tidiest way to fit wiring?
- We are planning to planning to go for a cruise in Abel Tasman for 3 of 4 nights: any tips on what to absolutely have or equip for a few days cruise?
thanks in advance for your help.
Damien
Deep cycle battery found empty...
in TechTalk
Posted
Thank you for your advices!
I have a solar regular but I understand it is a cheapy: https://guide.alibaba.com/shop/gxg-1987-cmp-12-20a-12v-24v-solar-charge-controller-solar-control-regulator-solar-panel-battery-regulator_1026293016.html
I guess it would pay I install a better one... any advice on brand or model... for resonable budget?
I had a 50AH battery that seemed sufficient at the time connected to a 20W solar panel. I am wondering if I should keep 50ah capacity or should up it to 75ah. Also should I better invest in an AGM battery rather than wet-cell?
I run: VHF, small depth sounder, 2 small LED lights, small hand held GPS, 2 phones to charge, nav lights (hardly as we don't navigate at night). Maybe plan to install a stereo at some stage...
Thanks.