marinheiro
-
Content Count
1,522 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
39
Content Type
Profiles
Media Demo
Forums
Gallery
Calendar
Store
Posts posted by marinheiro
-
-
I am running a Balmar duo charge for the 2 sets of batteries charged from the original engine alternator (a grunty Leece Neville takes care of the house bank )
https://balmar.net/products/digital-duo-charge/
the alternator's output goes straight to the battery for the electric halyard/anchor winches and centreboard hydraulic pump, which draw some serious current. The duo charge keeps the start battery topped off. Remember under normal circumstances the start battery only requires minimal charging.
-
1
-
1
-
-
10 hours ago, Guest said:
Does the 3YM ignition power a fuel solenoid for key shutdown? If not, its good if you need extra power (say in reverse) being able to turn key off to depower external regulator. Be mindful though that this cuts power to your alarms. I do this sometimes in reverse. (3GM & Kiwi prop heavy reverse pitch) Only relevant if batteries are low and reverse prop loading at low revs.
Otherwise I would run an extra ext reg switch. (Good for as a instant field off.)
Does the ZM 5 have alternator temp control?
It also lacks battery temperature sensing. It is advertised as a drop in replacement for Ample Power Next Step regulators (no longer manufactured), but this is not strictly true.
For larger banks you need to look at regulator options such as Balmar, Wakespeed or Sterlingpro to get amongst other features battery and alternator temp sensing
-
29 minutes ago, waikiore said:
The original owners were considering doing that a few years ago and entering the Hobart -for fun.
I believe she raced in the SYD - HOB whilst she was under Australian ownership(she was Melbourne based for some years), after Peter Spencer sold her.
-
speaking of Robertson's, one interesting major refit they are doing is to the Farr designed Cotton Blossom.
Apparently some Hong Kong based guy bought her sight unseen during the lock down period from the Vances and she is undergoing a stem to stern refit. I think a carbon rig is on the agenda, not sure if the typical 70's Farr keel will be turbo'd.
-
1 hour ago, Bad Kitty said:
Only negative is Robertson's is a full service yard, so I don't think you can do any work yourself? Is that the case AS?
You can do your own work there no problem, I always do my own antifouling and whatever else I can do myself. Just got to follow the safety rules.
Conrad asks, not unreasonably, that he has first shot at any 3rd party works. Even so, when I wanted my yacht polished by my regular valet he was ok with that (after the requisite grumbling), so the valet charged Conrad who in turn charged me +5% markup which I was cool with.
-
2
-
-
10 hours ago, CarpeDiem said:
Multi story apartments to help with the housing crisis?
So what travel lift options does that leave for yachties in Auckland now?
- Gulf Harbour Marina
- Hobsonville Marina
- Orams (does Orams allow owners to work on their boats?)
Does Pine Harbour or Bucklands have travel lifts?
There is also Robertsons at Warkworth (Conrad won the auction for the land), boats up to 3 m draft can get up the Mahurangi river on the right tide with a bit of guidance.
Heading in the other direction there is Westpark, 2 travel lifts there
-
if it is for interior trim use Rimu makes a pretty good impersonation of old varnished teak
-
3 hours ago, wheels said:
Insurance is becoming a big issue for many older boats, no matter what material built from. Then add in the reluctance of insuring on a swing mooring.
The "where can I get insurance" question is the main discussion I have on HFOA forum. There are only two places I can send people now. The Marina Shop in BOI. And Williams in Spain. The later I know nothing about and have heard some have had problems getting payment after mishaps. But apparently they insure with no questions asked. So if it is a case of needing isnurance to get into a Marina, but maybe never getting a pay out if Boat sinks, then that is an option.
Every other insurance company is either moving completely away from Boats or making it real tough and only looking at reasonably new. If you already have insurance, they usually continue to cover, but let the policy lapse just briefly and they will likely not allow you to take it up again.Do you know who is the underwriter for The Marina Shop's policies? Maybe Topsail or someone else?
Brian Hepburn is selling Williams policies.
It appear Towers offered to take over existing Club Marine policies
-
you are lucky if you can get insurance on a mooring, Vero have this list of mooring areas they will not insure, don't know other insurers position
Cass Bay, Corsair Bay, Devonport Yacht Club, Waiake Beach, Stanley Point, Magazine Bay marina or Naval Point marina, Northcote Point, Okahu Bay, Hobson Bay, Birkenhead Point, Algies Bay, Bayswater Swing, Maraetai Beach, Herne Bay, Stanmore Bay, Swann Beach, Tindalls Bay, Cox’s Bay, Castlepoint, Westmere, Stewart Island, Watchman’s Island, Great Barrier Island, Lake Waikaremoana, Bluff Harbour, West Coast North Island Harbours (i.e. Pahi, Kaipara, Raglan, etc)
-
370 x 120 , well used, no outer trim rings.
Free (otherwise they get binned) , pick up Mahurangi East
-
On 9/06/2022 at 7:28 AM, wheels said:
As soon as you move CG from Safety to Policing, everything changes.
Not saying that it would certainly follow the same here, but in both Oz and the US, the Coastguard have become a very harsh rules enforcement authority and not an organisation that is there for rescue, aid and education.
However, I do think that the NZ CG could be given a tooth or two at least and be able to enforce some laws. Although, the difficult part of that is the authorisation of CG people to be able to stop, board and enforce. It's not all that easy. People with such authority require special training. Not something you are going to get Volunteers doing.The US Coastguard is a federal law enforcement agency, whilst the Australian Volunteer Coastguard is the same model as NZ, local volunteer groups working under a common umbrella with no enforcement powers. In Australia maritime enforcement is handled by the respective states' Department of Transport and Police water units.
I looked up current pleasure boat registration fees for WA, they are effectively just another tax
-
2 hours ago, Island Time said:
Other anchoring ideas.
when wind not same direction as waves, use the chain hook to attach a bridle to chain, pay out a bit more, take bridle to sheet winch, then adjust angle as required, with bridle length.stern anchor to keep boat alignment as required.
spare chain/warp for deep anchorage
catenary weight for towing line (chain works better though)
two other suggestions
1. Tie/splice 10m or so of floating yellow/orange poly prob to the bitter end of the chain, provides a good marker for recovery if you ever have to let the anchor and chain go in a hurry and can't buoy it
2. Paint the shank and/or hoop (for ROCNA's) bright orange (SPADEs paint the back half of the scoop yellow), helps spotting the anchor to check its set - more applicable for cruising in the islands
-
all licensed
https://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/near-collision-on-waitemata/ISU3F6WXMTPIH6AEZXNLJHGEAU/
If you want training/proof of experience, easiest way is by insurers making it a pre-requisite for insurance which would capture 95%+ of the boats on the water. They are already doing this for offshore insurance.
-
3
-
-
1. When you have not correctly moused the anchor shackle and the pin has come out
2. When you have got hopeless entangled around a bommie and need to let the anchor go to allow a diver to untangle it
3. When you have had to exit an anchorage pronto and had to dump anchor and chain (preferably buoyed for later recovery) - John and Heather Lidgard had this experience on Reward
4. Kedge anchor for when you have intimate contact with the bottom or to change the yacht's heading into a swell in a rolly anchorage (the Fortress anchors are good for these uses)
-
5 hours ago, wheels said:
It is called Polyester, because that is what we were all used to. But Polyester was done away with waaaay back in the 70's. Polyester is the resin that caused Osmosis issues. That changed ruffly around 1972, although that was a slow change as stocks slowly deminished and the new Vinylester took it's place. However the name Polyester was never dropped fro use. Everyone still called it Polyester. Basically, it looked the same, smelled the same, worked the same. Except it didn't let water through it via Osmosis.
The blisters that are sometines seen on modern hulls are not the same. They come about due to the layup not being 100%. Something very hard to get right in chopped strand processes. But much easier to fix by a simple grind and fill and waterproof coat to seal it again. Osmosis was a slightly different problem and could result in a lot of damage if left unchecked. Repair was not always simple.Polyester and Vinyl ester resins are 2 very different products, as described here
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyester_resin
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vinyl_ester_resin
blisters on modern hulls still have the same basic mechanism as those decades ago
https://www.boatsurveyor.net/boat-surveyor-osmosis-explained/
-
2 hours ago, waikiore said:
Actually Wheels for a change you are way off the mark, most (90% plus) production boatbuilding is still Polyester resin. Since the seventies we have known about the failures of these laminates and consider the main two types used differently, isothalic and orthothalic resins. These are both inferior and cheaper and less corrosion resistant than Vinylester-but much easier for the average yard to deal with. Vinylester chemically has more in common with some epoxies.
So we are left with a number of yards that care about the longevity of their product and happiness of their clients who use a Vinylester tie coat (often in tissue) behind the gelcoat forming a barrier to prevent corrosion of the main laminate by hydrolysis. .
the old hands reckoned the polyester resins were actually quite good up until the first oil crisis, then it appeared the mix was changed and that's when Osmosis really became a problem. So early Cav's, Corsairs etc potentially stood up better than the latter ones.
Here is an FP Cat that was only 2 yrs old that needed a major bottom job
https://www.osmosis.co.nz/gallery/sail/thetys/page_1.html
even though that was 10 yrs ago they are still using polyester resins, but make a big deal about using an Iso NPG gel coat which has been industry norm for decades
Fountaine Pajot was a pioneer in the manufacture of composite power and sail cruising catamarans. The company developed and perfected sandwich construction technology, and all catamarans in the range feature a core of PVC foam laminated under vacuum and outer skins made of a laminate of fibreglass fabrics and powder binder mats applied by hand with an isophtalic polyester resin. The core of the sandwich is satisfied under vacuum leaving cross-linking at regular intervals between the two skins to ensure proper adhesion. To guarantee the protection of their boats against hydrolysis, for hulls and decks they use only isophtalic gel-coats applied extremely evenly by spray-gun. Like every other phase in manufacture, the quality of their application is strictly controlled.
-
50 minutes ago, Ed said:
How much of the epoxy market is finished product shipped in and how much is contract manufactured onshore?
ATL refer to themselves as a manufacturer, but unsure of what level their basic materials are imported
-
3 hours ago, wheels said:
Most solid glass boats are not made from Epoxy. They are Vinyl Ester
Most run of the mill production boats, esp out of Europe and Sth Africa are still built from polyester resins. They might use vinyl ester against the gel coat but after that it is typically polyester. This includes most AWB's, cats (Outremers & Catana may use VE), and power boats from the same yards. Maritimo state they use VE, whilst Riviera are a bit cagey about the resins used, mentioning VE for "sealing" but not saying clearly if all laminate is VE.
VE's are roughly double the price of polyesters and not so easy to work with.
-
Sandspit Yacht Club is running a car boot sale Sunday 3 April, 08.30 - 10.30 at the club rooms
https://mailchi.mp/52ea03c003ce/syc-newsletter-21-october-13440580?e=c7628513a8
Take the opportunity to buy/sell some
boat junkhigh quality preloved marine artefacts 😁-
1
-
-
In Brazil we had the choice of "standard" petrol which was about E20 or 100% Ethanol. All the locally manufactured cars were "flex" engines which could run on any level of Ethanol (and could also run on CNG) without a problem. Just came down to economics, to achieve equivalent $R/km the 100% ethanol needed to be less than 70% of the cost of standard. The local "rule" was when returning a rental car it was always filled with 100% Ethanol.
Then you would have some outlets get smart, diluting the standard petrol with more ethanol to about an E50 mix (known locally as "adulterado") but still sold at the full price
-
16 minutes ago, aardvarkash10 said:
Look again - its not obvious. Refer Kevin's last photo
The fuel lift pump is located on the engine block under the pressure pump/governor. The supply and pressure lines are on the left of the pump as we view it (bottom middle of the image).
The lift pressure line loops and comes over the top of the pressure pump inlet banjo (more on this later) before attaching to the secondary filter inlet.
The sec filter outlet drops vertically out of sight behind the filter and comes to the pressure pump inlet banjo. This is a double banjo (horrors - duelling banjos!) and a second line on it can be seen running toward the back of the engine. This is the fuel return/airbleed line. It will likely have a restrictor in it. The lift pump supplies excess fuel - some of it bleeds back to the tank via this line, and any air can also bleed via this line.
The pressure pump and governor do their business and send pressurised fuel to the injectors. A small low pressure return line is fitted to the injector rail returning to the low pressure side of the pressure pump - this is the line we see terminating at the outlet of the secondary filter. Again, this allows for air bleed.
OK, did not pick up the double banjo connection.
Still not good practice to have the fuel return looping back into the injector pump feed, the fuel will be hot and will amplify any entrained air issues.
-
1
-
-
something looks a bit strange with the engine mounted filter.
Where does the braided line on the inlet side originate? Should be from the lift pump.
The outlet side appears to be connected to the injector fuel return?
The filter outlet should be feeding the injector pump, the fuel return line should be going back to the fuel tank.
Where is the injector pump getting its fuel from?
-
There are 2 issues with Ethanol based blends
1. the water/gumming issue previously mentioned, and
2. The ethanol attacking plastic and rubber components in fuel systems that are not resistant to it.
Here's what Yamaha NZ have to say, I imagine other manufacturers take a similar approach
All 2008 and later outboard models have been designed with fuel system components that are tolerant to fresh fuel containing ethanol up to 10% (E10). Outboard fuel systems can still be affected by: water, dissolved gum, varnish, corrosion particles, and dissolved resins that E10 fuel has cleaned from the distribution system and your boat’s fuel tanks.
-
1
-
-
the neighbouring classic launch
https://waitematawoodys.com/2022/03/21/kokoru-ravaged-in-marina-fire-a-call-for-help/
John Lidgard
in MarineTalk
Posted
available through the Auckland Council libraries, you can reserve it
https://discover.aucklandlibraries.govt.nz/iii/encore/record/C__Rb2204909__Sjohn lidgard__Orightresult__U__X4?lang=eng&suite=def