marinheiro

Just be aware (last I looked) that the unlimited data plan that is available for Go's is not available for phones, why not - no idea, just marketing I guess. Plenty of Go's on Ebay if you want one or wait till November when boats return from the islands, usually a couple for sale

What exactly are you looking to protect? Fuses are to protect the cabling, a windlass should have a re-setable circuit breaker -if your windlass draws 80 amps then a 100 amp breaker would be fine. Fuses need to be matched to cable size and depending on type they have an allowance for surge currents. I have a 3 battery system, the house bank has a 300 Amp Class T with a 70mm2 cable connection and a 200amp class T for the 2 kW Inverter feed, which is also 70mm2 Second battery is the starter, it has a 250amp Blue Sea stud mounted fuse, as does the third battery which powers t

see my follow up post 22 Feb above...

available through the Auckland Council libraries, you can reserve it https://discover.aucklandlibraries.govt.nz/iii/encore/record/C__Rb2204909__Sjohn lidgard__Orightresult__U__X4?lang=eng&suite=def

I am running a Balmar duo charge for the 2 sets of batteries charged from the original engine alternator (a grunty Leece Neville takes care of the house bank ) https://balmar.net/products/digital-duo-charge/ the alternator's output goes straight to the battery for the electric halyard/anchor winches and centreboard hydraulic pump, which draw some serious current. The duo charge keeps the start battery topped off. Remember under normal circumstances the start battery only requires minimal charging.

It also lacks battery temperature sensing. It is advertised as a drop in replacement for Ample Power Next Step regulators (no longer manufactured), but this is not strictly true. For larger banks you need to look at regulator options such as Balmar, Wakespeed or Sterlingpro to get amongst other features battery and alternator temp sensing

I believe she raced in the SYD - HOB whilst she was under Australian ownership(she was Melbourne based for some years), after Peter Spencer sold her.

speaking of Robertson's, one interesting major refit they are doing is to the Farr designed Cotton Blossom. Apparently some Hong Kong based guy bought her sight unseen during the lock down period from the Vances and she is undergoing a stem to stern refit. I think a carbon rig is on the agenda, not sure if the typical 70's Farr keel will be turbo'd.

You can do your own work there no problem, I always do my own antifouling and whatever else I can do myself. Just got to follow the safety rules. Conrad asks, not unreasonably, that he has first shot at any 3rd party works. Even so, when I wanted my yacht polished by my regular valet he was ok with that (after the requisite grumbling), so the valet charged Conrad who in turn charged me +5% markup which I was cool with.

There is also Robertsons at Warkworth (Conrad won the auction for the land), boats up to 3 m draft can get up the Mahurangi river on the right tide with a bit of guidance. Heading in the other direction there is Westpark, 2 travel lifts there

if it is for interior trim use Rimu makes a pretty good impersonation of old varnished teak

Do you know who is the underwriter for The Marina Shop's policies? Maybe Topsail or someone else? Brian Hepburn is selling Williams policies. It appear Towers offered to take over existing Club Marine policies

you are lucky if you can get insurance on a mooring, Vero have this list of mooring areas they will not insure, don't know other insurers position Cass Bay, Corsair Bay, Devonport Yacht Club, Waiake Beach, Stanley Point, Magazine Bay marina or Naval Point marina, Northcote Point, Okahu Bay, Hobson Bay, Birkenhead Point, Algies Bay, Bayswater Swing, Maraetai Beach, Herne Bay, Stanmore Bay, Swann Beach, Tindalls Bay, Cox’s Bay, Castlepoint, Westmere, Stewart Island, Watchman’s Island, Great Barrier Island, Lake Waikaremoana, Bluff Harbour, West Coast North Island Harbours (i.e. Pahi, Kaipar

370 x 120 , well used, no outer trim rings. Free (otherwise they get binned) , pick up Mahurangi East

The US Coastguard is a federal law enforcement agency, whilst the Australian Volunteer Coastguard is the same model as NZ, local volunteer groups working under a common umbrella with no enforcement powers. In Australia maritime enforcement is handled by the respective states' Department of Transport and Police water units. I looked up current pleasure boat registration fees for WA, they are effectively just another tax

two other suggestions 1. Tie/splice 10m or so of floating yellow/orange poly prob to the bitter end of the chain, provides a good marker for recovery if you ever have to let the anchor and chain go in a hurry and can't buoy it 2. Paint the shank and/or hoop (for ROCNA's) bright orange (SPADEs paint the back half of the scoop yellow), helps spotting the anchor to check its set - more applicable for cruising in the islands

all licensed https://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/harbour-ferries-going-too-fast-in-fog-says-crash-report/I2QJDGP2HNUSAIIRD6RG2B36HM/ https://www.stuff.co.nz/national/117809940/auckland-ferry-incidents-worker-overboard-falls-and-trips-among-accidents-injuries https://www.stuff.co.nz/business/industries/122394289/fullers-skipper-fined-2500-after-collision-disables-navigational-buoy https://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/near-collision-on-waitemata/ISU3F6WXMTPIH6AEZXNLJHGEAU/ If you want training/proof of experience, easiest way is by insurers making it a pre-requisite for insurance whi

1. When you have not correctly moused the anchor shackle and the pin has come out 2. When you have got hopeless entangled around a bommie and need to let the anchor go to allow a diver to untangle it 3. When you have had to exit an anchorage pronto and had to dump anchor and chain (preferably buoyed for later recovery) - John and Heather Lidgard had this experience on Reward 4. Kedge anchor for when you have intimate contact with the bottom or to change the yacht's heading into a swell in a rolly anchorage (the Fortress anchors are good for these uses)

Polyester and Vinyl ester resins are 2 very different products, as described here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyester_resin https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vinyl_ester_resin blisters on modern hulls still have the same basic mechanism as those decades ago https://www.boatsurveyor.net/boat-surveyor-osmosis-explained/

the old hands reckoned the polyester resins were actually quite good up until the first oil crisis, then it appeared the mix was changed and that's when Osmosis really became a problem. So early Cav's, Corsairs etc potentially stood up better than the latter ones. Here is an FP Cat that was only 2 yrs old that needed a major bottom job https://www.osmosis.co.nz/gallery/sail/thetys/page_1.html even though that was 10 yrs ago they are still using polyester resins, but make a big deal about using an Iso NPG gel coat which has been industry norm for decades Fountaine Pajot was

ATL refer to themselves as a manufacturer, but unsure of what level their basic materials are imported https://www.adhesivetechnologies.co.nz/about-us/

Most run of the mill production boats, esp out of Europe and Sth Africa are still built from polyester resins. They might use vinyl ester against the gel coat but after that it is typically polyester. This includes most AWB's, cats (Outremers & Catana may use VE), and power boats from the same yards. Maritimo state they use VE, whilst Riviera are a bit cagey about the resins used, mentioning VE for "sealing" but not saying clearly if all laminate is VE. VE's are roughly double the price of polyesters and not so easy to work with.

Sandspit Yacht Club is running a car boot sale Sunday 3 April, 08.30 - 10.30 at the club rooms https://mailchi.mp/52ea03c003ce/syc-newsletter-21-october-13440580?e=c7628513a8 Take the opportunity to buy/sell some boat junk high quality preloved marine artefacts

In Brazil we had the choice of "standard" petrol which was about E20 or 100% Ethanol. All the locally manufactured cars were "flex" engines which could run on any level of Ethanol (and could also run on CNG) without a problem. Just came down to economics, to achieve equivalent $R/km the 100% ethanol needed to be less than 70% of the cost of standard. The local "rule" was when returning a rental car it was always filled with 100% Ethanol. Then you would have some outlets get smart, diluting the standard petrol with more ethanol to about an E50 mix (known locally as "adulterado") but still

OK, did not pick up the double banjo connection. Still not good practice to have the fuel return looping back into the injector pump feed, the fuel will be hot and will amplify any entrained air issues.