marinheiro
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Posts posted by marinheiro
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If you look around (trademe and marinaberths.com) there are not many berths for sale, take Bayswater and Hobsonville out of the equation and there are very few remaining berths advertised.
Westhaven is not renewing any licences, the last expire in 2029, if you do the calculation buying a license + paying the OPEX is a little cheaper than rental for the same duration;
Bayswater, Hobsonville and Pine Harbour - you can be sure OPEX will continue to increase significantly to pay for the purchase of the marina's (there has been the odd rumour he has been sniffing around Gulf Harbour
Gulf Harbour has the (good) anomally of the very long licence, there is not one berth listed for sale there.
Fairway Bay is rental only, Grant runs it really well and has a long waitlist
Half Moon Bay, BBBYC, and Sandspit are incorporated societies so can only charge to cover costs. All these marinas are seeing increase in value of licences and very few berths for sale
Orakei seems stable, always has been most expensive in Auckland
Decisión can really come down to whether you want the security of "owning" your berth
Final note is that the strongest demand is for big berths, 16m+.
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The Goodfellow family control over 20% of the fishing quota and are a cornerstone shareholder of Sanfords
Peter Goodfellow is president of the National Party.
Not hard to join the dots....
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Nilsson still make their own winches in NZ
http://www.jamesnilsson.com/shop/Windlasses/x_cat/00317.html
Not cheap, but per KM's post you get what you pay for
It would be interesting to know where the Maxwell(owned by Vetus/owned by Yanmar) winches are made these days, still in NZ or overseas now?
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Unsure if the consents have been submitted yet, this is the last story in the local news
Also consider Auckland Council's Unitary Plan which proposes Warkworth's pop increase from 4,000 to 20,000 - 40,000, with most of this located in the Mahurangi catchment, somehow I do not think the sedimentation run off is going to reduce.
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Excellent doco , BBC Freak Wave
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COoMupCVAnc
there was a story from the 98 Syd Hobart of a helicopter making a pick up, when the pilot glanced in front of him and saw a wave looming above him, I bet the collective pitch lever had never been yanked so forcefully!
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all you could ever want to know about Tufnol
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NZ stats here
http://www.drownbase.org.nz/annual-statistics/
do not know if they include the Kaipara Bar accident.
If you can wade thru all the charts in the 2015 report, the key numbers Page 14, are
swimming 16
powered boats 9
sail 1
non powered 1
diving 9
land based fishing 4
other recreation 5
the 2016 numbers to date show a similar trend. Yet the hysteria being generated by the media and other organisations eg Maritime NZ and Coastguard is in my view going way over the top.
NZ suicides last year were >500 yet this is never mentioned
An interesting view about the road toll here
http://karldufresne.blogspot.co.nz/2016/12/the-road-toll-statistics-they-tried-to.html
and how the rule of unintended consequences kicks in.
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an idea i read somewhere to keep the reefing eye on the horns was a bit of hose of appropriate diameter slipped over the horns
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Gordon at Craftmaster Marine (in Yachtspars shed at Kumeu), ph 412 - 2251,
made my shaft and machined prop taper and keyway when I re-engined
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Your rig should have fore and aft lowers, typical of Des' designs. These should stop the mast moving around - are they tight enough?
Closest riggers to you would be Phil Ash at Gulf Harbour, he has done good work for me. They are very busy this time of the year, if you want a check might be best to take Romany around to Gulf Harbour
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The last Kiwi built cruiser racer would be Neil Bailey's Beale 45 Zucherro, absolute masterpiece by Lloyd Stephenson with an eye watering price to match - you get what you pay for!
It is fun at boat shows to ask the sellers of bendy type boats if the bulkheads are tabbed to the hulls, most claim to use "high strength polyurethane sealant", in other words no! Dufour say their bulkheads are tabbed in, using this to distinguish their boats from other competitors.
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Kailua, the first of this design, is also for sale, looks to be in rather better condition
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/boats-marine/yachts/keeler/auction-1021932003.htm
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When installing new log and depth sounder transducers (both Airmar OEM) I noted they came covered with warnings that they were not to be painted with Ketone (oil) based antifouling, only water based.
Given that water based antifouling is rather scarce in NZ, and only in 4L tins, interested to hear people's experience/views
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Steve, as I mentioned previously an Isolation transformer is the best way to go, but this is for a fixed installation and you still need RCD's. I have one RCD between the inlet and the primary AC switchboard, then because I have an inverter there has to be another RCD on the outlet side of the inverter.
IT commented about AS 3004 not mentioning EWOF's, these are covered in the NZ Electrical Safety Regulations 2010, see clauses 76,77 & 78
http://www.legislation.govt.nz/regulation/public/2010/0036/latest/DLM2763501.html
these seem to be a bit of a moving target with amendments every couple of years
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the Rolls Royce of manual pumps (at a price to match)
on a more budget basis I second IT's nomination of the Henderson Mk V, toughest plastic body pump around
for a large capacity electric pump I have gone with one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Rule-Evacuator-8000-High-Capacity-Submersible/dp/B0084A9K40
finding a hose you can stow is a bit of a challenge, I bought a lay flat hose which is not the best solution, as I could not find the alternative "concertina" style hose.
A separate engine drive impeller pump (1.5 or 2")is a good step, do not consider using the engine's own pump - one blockage and the impeller will be history, besides on smaller engines these do not have such a high flow.
The issue with the shaft mounted pumps (Erickson etc)is that the shaft has to be turning for them to be operating and in a flooding situation you may not necessarily want to be moving.
Another alternative is a Pacer
http://pacerpumps.com/industrialPumps.php
Dashew fits these with an hydraulic drive to his expensive motorboats.
An option if you have AC is a submersible centrifugal, or have the space to stow a separate motor driven pump.
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Bill Penny or Dave Nye, both on the Westhaven contractors list
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The electrical inspector from Warkworth checking boats at Sandspit has been getting stuck in on the DC side, I know of a couple of people who had to change wet batteries to sealed ones due their not complying with the ventilation requirements.
Galvanic isolators help to maintain isolation from other boats or marina leakage, but they can fail periodically and with most you only know if you test them. Only sure way for protection/isolation is an isolating transformer, either traditional windings type or an electronic type such as
http://www.enertecmarinesystems.com/product/mastervolt-gi-3-5/
might be an interesting question to ask your respective marina to provide their own certificate of compliance to ANZS3004 part 1.
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just to show electric boats have been around a long time
I saw these in 1990, absolutely picturesque location
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Even with some advances the overall situation has not changed much, ie if you are basically a day sailor just wanting propulsion out/into the marina and can plug in for a recharge then electric has its points. But for cruising your favorite locale for some weeks, an IC engine is still the way to go.
Just released:
to get the 30 mile range it would need to be very flat water
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Partisan,
just curious, why changing out a 6 yr old installation? That is almost new compared to most boats.
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I suppose as this is being run as a "race" under YNZ rules, even cruising div yachts will have to mess around with stability certificates?
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couple of interesting articles on PV's and solar water heating
https://www.consumer.org.nz/articles/grid-tied-pv-systems
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from a financial point of view, if you compare Alastair's $30k initial investment funded at an interest rate of 6% vs a monthly power cost of say $300, and assume there will be an annual increase to this cost of 2%, then the solar install is at break even after ~10 yrs. This does not consider any maintenance costs and I would expect after 10yrs the batteries will probably need replacing
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