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Posts posted by wheels
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1 hour ago, aardvarkash10 said:
FB has reach.
Not so sure on that. It does only to "firends" but not to general public, unless someone specifically searches for a relevant page, no differently than they would googling for a page topic. For instance, no one would know about Crew unless they searched for the word Crew or a word (perhaps "sailing" for instance) in their search is tagged to the Crew page. Otherwise, no one knows a particular page exists.
Or am I even worse at this interwebing thing than I think I am???😀 -
The only negative I find with having a FB page like that, Is that they are a pain in the A to use. That's what I find anyway. I look after the Hartley Ferro Cement Assoc page. I find it nearly as slow as paint drying. OK, so I am on copper, but it's still slower by far than any other site I visit. I find it difficult to use and navigate and do any sort of Admin on. Well.....I am nearly 60, so not of the right generation perhaps.
But I do have to ask, why a FB page when you can do the same right here and much easier. The Forum is aleady created. People already ask questions and many answer them.
I wish the Ferro folk would use the dedicated forum here. Mind you, it seems the only questions regularly posed are, "who insures Ferro".
The most interesting message I have had for a very long time, came in just last week. A Woman in her 60's trying to build a Home using Ferrocement process and wondering why se was getting some leaks. Turns out she is living in some way out there remote area of Oz and has built this tunnel house looking thing. I suspect it is likely not on land she owns and has no permits etc etc. She does a bit as she can afford and the leaks are coming from the joints between where she has finished and started again later. Oh dear. And I am wondering if there is really a need for the Facebook page anymore.-
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There are only two types of products that adhere to cast acrylic sheet. Silicon and MS Polymer. MS stands for Modified Silicon, but don't let that fool you into thinking it is Silicon mixed with other stuff. It is kind of like Synthetic Oil. Synth Oil comes from a high quality base stock of crude Oil, but there the similarities end. With the Silicon, they take the foundation Chemical Silane and then modifiy it to suit what they want to achieve.
I do wish this post came up about a month back as I was hunting down a well priced but good product for a mate. The only products I ncould find were stupid expensive. Anything cheap seemed to be overseas. So thanks all for the suggestions above. I am going to pass those on to my mate as he isn't finished yet. -
What have you got right now? You can use a normal ratcheting crimper. There is not a great deal of difference between them. The jaw is usually a bit flatter so as the heatshrink is not damage when crunched down. but I have always used the noirmal crimper with no problems. Once you have made a crimp, give it a tug to ensure it is tight.
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I don't see that the ones buying boats are the ones that can't go on Holiday. They are two very different People types. the ones buying boats have always wanted a boat, or better boat, or bigger boat and now that they have huge equity in their Home, they have been able to borrow.
A mate just enquired about a Trailerable Fizznasty and it wasn't a huge flashy one either. This is the guy that was told over a year waiting list before they could start the build by the way. His eyes watered when he was told $300K. I thought Crikey. But it had a 300Hp engine. That is some $80K I guess. then a trailer these days are $15K to 20K. The Hull another $100K I guess. Electronics and so on. Soon adds up. And then I guess you need to add on the vehicle you need to tow it with now. Stuffed if I would spend $300K on a fizznasty. That would well and truly provide me with the boat of my dreams. Maybe two of them. -
Low Interest rates is what is doing it. People are putting a boat onto their mortgage. Boat Sales, especially in the smaller fizz nasty Trailer Boat market is through the roof. One manufacturer I know of, currently has a waiting list of just over a year before they can even start a new build once you place an order.
Waikawa Marina is going through exapnsion, but that has been years in planning. And they are only increasing the number of 16M berths. However, another reason for that is because moorings are no longer allowed to be put down and some are going to be removed.
Sea View allows live aboards. Or did. Marlborough Marina's no longer allow live aboards.
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After fitting one myself, it instantly went on my list as one of the best things I ever did to my Boat.
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Please do not take any of the following as me patronising you. None of your post is wrong, I am just expanding on some points because it's not quite so simple.
12 hours ago, syohana said:Gel batteries have much lower charge voltage than AGM.
Sort of. In this "tug" situation, it is about getting the charge back in to the Gel as fast as possible while as you correctly state, not causing gas in the Gel. However, simple chargers, or those specified for FLA/AGM can also be used, providing the charge current remains below the threshold of Gassing.
12 hours ago, syohana said:AGM batteries are much more tolerant and can be charged by a normal lead acid battery charger but they will last longer if you use a charger with special AGM settings. Most AGM batteries have similar charge voltage settings, there can be small variations but essentially any AGM battery will probably be OK in this unit with the existing charger.
Only in some points are they better. There is also a big advantage over AGM. Gel can dissipate heat much better than AGM nd heat is the killer of AGM. One again, providing the discharge/charge current is kept below the point of Gassing, the Gel can actually last much longer than a AGM. AGM's suffer from drying out if they are allowed to get too warm.
12 hours ago, syohana said:An "H" on the end of the model number is for extra heavy plates which allow you to discharge it deeper more often.
No heavier plates do not allow you to discharge deeper with no consequence to the battery. Any battery, not matter how thick a plate is, begins to deteriorate from the point of where it moves from full charge to a discharging situation. The deeper the discharge, the faster sulphate is produced on the plate. A battery is a chemical factory. It is a reaction that when it is producing a current, it changes the Lead Oxide and Acid to a Lead Sulphate on the plate. During charge, the reverse happens and the Sulphate is turned back into Lead Oxide and Acid. However, there is always some material used up never to be recreated again. And just how much of that happens is determined by how deep the battery is discharged. The time the battery remains discharged affects what happens with that Sulphate. The Sulphate in short term remains soft and can be easily changed back to the Lead Oxide etc. But if left too long, it crystalises and goes very hard and no amount of charging with return it back to Lead Oxide etc. The hard material blocks the surface of the plate and reduces the Batteries ability to supply it's normal current and accept charge. Those pulse chargers can sometimes break that coating away from th plates and seemingly bring the Battery back to life, but the resultant loss of plate material means the Battery will never provide rated capacity again.
Plate thickness is about the capacity..... ability to produce current for long periods. Thick plates are poor at producing large currents fast. A start plate being thin, produces current quickly, but has poor capacity.12 hours ago, syohana said:If you compare the KG weight of two batteries of the same spec and one brand is heavier, you can be pretty sure that's the better brand
While that is true, there can also be slight variances that can make one FLA or AGM better than others of same weight. That information is usually supplied by the Manufacturer. I have always found that the makers that supply large amounts of detailed information tend to also have the better batteries. They will give you all the advanced information and what exactly the Battery has been desinged to do. There are different end games the maker was thinking about when they designed the battery, even within the family of say AGM or FLA. We all know the range FLA can cover. Some AGM's are designed for UPS only situations and some are designed for start or deep cycle. Gel are usually designed for UPS duty.
Those that make a poor to average battery do not give much in the way of specs. Apart from Voltage, some kind of current rating that is not usually tied with how that rating was achieved. And that the battery comes in a black box with lugs.
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Don't panic. They are nothing special. If the picture of those are the original of course. Just a 20Ahr Sealed Gel is all they are and any sealed Gel of same size will suffice. The problem is that these are not great at a continual everyday deep cycle situation. These kind of Gels are designed for Standby operation where they stay charged up for long periods and then if power goes out, they provide current for a time till the power comes back on and are topped back up again.
You could get away with a deep cycle AGM or FLA even. But if you go larger capacity to get greater duration from the machine, then you are going to need greater charge time with that 5A charger.
Or you could put something larger in and replace the charger as well to suit. The problem will be what in a larger capacity is going to fit in the same area.
If you really want to get carried away, go Lithium and have something that can provide good service all day. -
The IUOU designation is the important point here. Actually the letters hould read IUoU. The charger may have 24V on it, but that is not just what it is. IUOU is actually DIN 41773 and designates the specifics required for 3 stage charging of the batteries.
I =Current
U =Voltage. ( U and not V will be make sense in my description below)
oU= is also Voltage (as above)
In this situation, the I is maintained as a constant current bulk charge. The Voltage is varied.
oU is a constant Voltage stage and takes care of the absorption charge and trickle charge stage.
The idea is to be able to charge the Gells as fast as possible, yet not cause them to gas. The parameters will be a lot more complex and possibly created specificially to suit the specific batteries that were in the machine. -
The person to buy from and ask those questions to is IT. He sells and installs the B&G gear and will be able to give you the advice on which transducer to use.
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I suggest there was an explosion. The sub is lying in three pieces. Implosion would not likely do that. They tend to crack and water violently and almost instantly fills the void. There may be hull deformations in places, but they don't suck in like an empty tank under vacuum does. Early on it was said they were undergoing Torpeedo firing tests and I would imagine one has detonated inside the tube or even inside the Vessel. Which has happened in the past.
I really can't see water falling fast enough to overcome a Submarine surley. But that is just my opinion. Anyone have any knowledge of this. How fast can a water column fall? -
When I was involved with CRA, this was very much a discussion taking place in OZ and NZ (within the circles of those involved in making such decisions) and was one of the main reasons behind the Excel. Upon having a quick google, I see the types of moorings and restrictions to anchoring have been emloyed in Oz. I guess the discussion went no further re the types of anchors being restricted, which is a shame. Although I note that there is a lot of "suggestion" made, or outright ban and use of mooring only. Also the suggestion of the chain causing most of the damage, so maybe the restriction of anchor type became too hard. Very similar scenarios have taken place in the Med and around the UK as well.
Here in Marlborough, all moorings will eventually be upgraded to the screw design and a "bungee" type connection between boat and screw so as no ground chain drags around the bottom. There was also discussion at one time about anchoring, covering everthing from anchor design type to outright ban, but it all fell into the too hard basket for now. Mainly due to the fact that there are those opposing any more moorings to be introduced and the fact that there are far too many boats to go on existing ones. Port Marlborough actually want to reduce mooring numbers and force people to Berth in the Marina. The only moorings that will be allowed in the future are for those that own property. Of course the other issue is that the company that makes the screw mooring system here are also the same and at the moment, the only one that services said mooring system. So I see yet another monopoly taking place here. -
If anyone is considering buying a new Anchor, this is a good point to suggest considering a design like the Excel. And it's not because I am biased. There is a very good environmental reason. The Excel came about due to restrictions imposed in Austrailia. Because they have large areas of Sea grass and other rather sensitive seafloors, they are now restricting the tye of anchor one can use to just the plough type designs. The designs like Sarca, Spade, Rocna etc cannot be used in many areas. There is murmor that this could become a thing in the future for areas of NZ like the Sounds etc. The designs like the Sarca cause too much damage when they are lifted from the bottom. The plough designs cause the least amount of damage. So Anchor Right went about redesigning the plough style and came out with a top notch performer.
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Thanks, didn't know they were that old.
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30 minutes ago, marinheiro said:
Simpson Lawrence developed both the CQR
No the CQR was designed way before they existed. A very famouse Scotsman by the name of Sir Geoffry Ingram Taylor designed it in 1933. He was a very clever Physicist, Mathmatician and an expert in Fluid Dynamics and Wave Theory. He applied maths to it's design.
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51 minutes ago, marinheiro said:
That's not correct, Manson's just copied the CQR, they never had any licence from Simpson Lawrence. Same as the way they copied the Rocna
Simpson Lawrence made the Delta, a fixed shank version of the CQR. Lewmar made CQR.
While there are similarities, Manson have argued they never copied CQR. Only they know the real truth I guess, but they still have a great version, unlike many of the nasty copies of it out there.
They certainly did not "copy" Rocna. But they sure improved on it. And besides, Rocna has a bigger story behind it's design than I wish to say. That is up to KM if he ever wants to tell the story.
After all, how do you come up with a design different to another without being similar. There are dozens of different versions of Anchors on the market within each category of design and thus all similar.
The Excel anchor took the old Delta design and made major improvements to it. Very simply, design and modeling programs allow manufacturers to improve designs in ways we never could in the past and that is how Anchor Right came up with the design. It's arguably the best anchor on the market in both performance and biuld quality. Actually, all their designs have superb build quality. Rex would phone up all excited about the latest destructive test results and I would yell back so he could hear, "what are trying to anchor into, solid concrete????". I used to argue they were way over engineered. It is amasing to see this thing work in a range of bottom types.
Another Anchor that was amazing was the Alloy Spade. The one with the yellow paint on the back of it. I always found it hard to understand why this anchor performed as well as it did. But it sure did perform. I don't know if it is still made, but imagine it priced itself off the market. If you look at their SST anchors, they are lovely, but few would ever have the kind of budget needed to own one. -
8 hours ago, marinheiro said:
Is that a real CQR or one of the junk copies Manson's made?
Yes there are junk copies out there, but Manson wasn't one of them. They had licence to build the genuine real deal. The CQR is one of those anchors that seems to work great for many and work absolutely crap for a few. I think it is setting technique that makes the difference.
Follow IT's advise. People make the big mistake of thinking they are setting the ancor, but never testing it. As said, you should be able to pull down at full throttle and the anchor should hold you. NEVER try that unless you have the chain/warp locked off though, or you will damage the winch.
The Manson Supreme is a fantastic Anchor. The Excel is even better and arguably the best on the market. The original Rockna was a great anchor, but I would never touch the ones they have been making for the last 10yrs out of China and from cheap steel. So many of them have bent and not when being used in anger either.
Chain/rode length is the realy important point anchoring. The more the better. But having witnessed anchoring in the North, I understand the difficulty anchoring in a crowded bay when everyone else is virtually on top of you.
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One thing made very clear in my 1st aid training was that it is extremly unlikely you will ever bring a non beating Heart back to beating by CPR. The only reason you do CPR is to maintain blood/oxygen flow. Hence why you never stop till a paramedic take over. The only way to restart a Heart is via a shock from a Defib unit.
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Yes the screw needs to be removed. A BIG screw driver is required and give the screw driver a good hard crack with the other "persussion screw dirver" (Hammer). Normally it should not be hard to remove because maintenance should be every 6 months to 12months at the most.
Once the screw is out, the drum should slip off. But the same applies. It "should" slip off because it "should" be done once a yr at most.
The clutch surface should always be kept clean and have a very slight smeer of grease on it. The shaft should also be greased ever so slightly to ensure easy removal of Drum/Gypsy. It also means visual inspection can help keep on top of leaky seals and possible corrosion of the winch body and motor.
A slow motor can be caused by several reasons.
Badly worn or dry bearings.
Oil in the wat...I mean water in the Oil of the gearbox.
The seal between box and motor being badly worn and oil having leaked down into the motor. The Oil mixes with the carbon dust and semi shorts the brushes and a large amount of current is sunk to Earth of the winch body. A real good clean, new seal and bearing and new brushes will usually solve the problem.
Badly worn brushes.
Severe wear on the armature.
Short in a winding.
Severly worn worm gear.
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Power boats have their place too BP. You may not like them, but many do. For those who have limited time and want to get out there on the water, or maybe just a fish, or maybe they don't like the boat tipping onto it's side to make it go, or have no idea or desire how to raise a sail, or don't like the slow speed, especially on a low to no wind day, the Powered Vessel is their dream.
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7 hours ago, marinheiro said:
Great tools, actually always made in USA
Well whaddaya know. I had always thought that by the name and quality they were naturally German.
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I was discussing it with a Fairly high up First Aid trainer and they had said that the dropping of the breaths part was in consideration and most likely going to be adopted at some stage, but they had no firm confirmation that it would be dropped or when.
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22 minutes ago, harrytom said:
Call 999. Perform chest compressions to the time of "Staying Alive". Do not give rescue breaths. Continue compressions until help arrives.
The reasoning now is that every time you do a compression cycle, air has been pumped in and out of the lungs in an amount that will ensure enough oxygen has entered the system. Heart compression and thus movement of blood is so essential that it is more important to maintain chest compressions and not to bother with the breathing part.
Of course none of that is possible if the person is in the water. It is considered that the person when in water may have only just stopped breathing and the heart is still pumping, so resus by giving breaths may keep a persons heart pumping till you get them to shore.
The turning of head to side is only temporary to drain exess water from airways etc. The person should then be placed on their back and checked for pulse and then chest compressions started if no pulse found
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I spent a huge amount of time initially in getting rid of FB suggestions and calling them spam or not interested or something. I think FB now has no clue what to send me because I don't get advertising or suggestions hardly at all. Which is the way I prefer it. For me, FB was just a way to keep in touch with close friends and I have always wanted to keep it that way. I simply do not have time to go looking at the suggestions it offers me.