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Posts posted by wheels
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Yes they are really common. You can use them without a crimper. Just twist the bare end and slip it into the jacket, place the terminal into the terminal and tighten up. These things stop the clamping screw from cutting through the wire end and add a little extra stress relief to the connection.
However, if you want to crimp the jacket onto a wire, you need the proper tool and they are very expensive. It is best to not try crimping with anything else as it just does not work well.
I also place a little heatsrink on the wire end and slip over that plastic jacket of the terminal just to give it a little extra hold. The plastic skirts on these things are not make to be cruched down like the standard Ring type terminals.
IT mentioned about crimping tools and that there are some nasty ones out there. Refering to the larger battery terminal type crimps of course. The real McCoy's have a Hex action that crimps the terminal equaly from all sides and leaves a nice hex pattern around the terminal. The cheap ones have two sets of die that have three sides each and they are simply crunched together and end up leaving two tags each side and a very poor crimp that can fail. OInce again, the real tools are expensive. Don't buy the cheap rubbish from the likes of Jaycar etc. Expect to pay several hundred for good cheapies and into the thousands for the hydraulic action ones.-
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Very few around now because unless the facility has a waste catching/managing system, you cannot clean your hull. And as most want to clean the Hull for new Antifouling, you tend to need that catching facility. Thus we all forced to use a commercial yard.
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The big lesson for me when we first lived aboard was in the shift from large land based home to a small box isolated by water. And I had already been warned and thought I was prepared. In fairness, I am affected more than the average with such a life changes, but it still came harder than I was actually expecting. So once you move aboard, you need to be propared that this is a major change to how you live your life. You need to give yourself 3 months at the least to settle before making rash decisions. Be prepared that within those 3 months, your had may or may not on multiple occasions ask, WTF have I done.
Always remember that you have moved onto a sailing vessel with the purpose of traveling. I think that this is your intention and not just a view that it's a cheap place to live (because it is not), or you would not be here on Crew asking questions. So it is really important to maintain discipline of when you take things out, you stow everything away once you finish wirth them. Of you live in your boat the same way we tend to live in a land based home, one day it will be a stunning one for a sail and you suddenly think oh heck, I have to clean up and then you find the time it takes to stow everything as wrecked that beautful day for a sail. You have to have the mind set that you are sailing, not living cheap as a means to live. -
KM has been quiet because he has big news of his very own. Or I should say, CRA has big news. I assume KM will have a " Media Release" of his own soon. Anyways, It's currently keeping KM's head down bum up. So hence the lack of stirring of our local natives.
Congrats to the new owner. Are we going to get an introduction soon????
I do hope it is a Crew member taking over the helm and not just some faceless person that buys up Forums as an investment. -
I love these boats.
There is something very similar for sale here in the Sounds. So many times I have thought about her, but also quickly follow my thoughts with the consideration of what it must cost to keep one afloat.
The most beautiful craft on the water in my view has to be one of these. The mighty J Class. Similar design lines, but huge.
I shot to Trademe to see if it was still listed, but sadly it's not. But I came across this beautiful Logan classic is for sale. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/boats-marine/yachts/keeler/listing/3039879011
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Firstly, the FET one IT has suggested has 0V loss, so you get full charge voltage to banks,
There are two ways of connecting a VSR. Either a Disconnect and a Voltage threshold so as the Start bank is never fully drained. Or as you said, charge one, then the other. However, in either situation, the second is switched back in at an unequal charge state compared to the other. Thus even identicle batteries will present different charge loads. The Battery presenting the greater load hogs all the current. You would expect that the batteries would even out, but that is not often the case. So one ends up hogging the load and ends up over charging. The one presenting the least load never gets to a full charge. This is not an issue for say a trailer boat and you can put a charger on it at home. But for a boat out on a mooring, the problem compounds till eventually one battery, or maybe both, fail prematurely.
While that VSR is cheap, if compared to a good make, they are similar prices to a FET splitter, so I would be going down that path rather than the VSR. -
Keep it simple. Simplest is to not worry about the VSR. Use a charge splitter to divide the charge to which battery needs charge. This ensures your batteries will always get a trickle charge when the boat is not in use and Banks are full. It also means that two batteries that are at different charge capacities do not unbalance the draw of current and one gets all and the other very little. VSR's were designed for a small power boat situation where it was about having a spare start battery and ensuring at least one battery was left with enough charge to start the motor, incase the Radio was on full bore for a long time.
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20 hours ago, Addem said:
don’t give up the dream!
Thanks for the sentiment. I try not to look at a glass half full, but am also rather hard on myself at times as well. I have just turned 59 and now steering down the barrel of 60. So just another one of those "midlife" crisis we Men often have.
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17 hours ago, waikiore said:
This and a 1020 are poles apart, 1020 ideal for round here, HR ideal for ocean walloping and living on.
Yes and you have nailed it in a nutshell. Horses for courses. There are many splendid boats on the water. The HR is not neccessarily above some others. The reason why this name has had my attention for years is all about passage making and living aboard. A 1020 will run circles around them as far as performance. But the HR's have a Character and comfort level about them that make them something inviting to live on and cruise in. In my view of course.
One thing I particularly like is the Keel. Any Boat that is now 40yrs old with a Bolt on Fin Keel would keep me awake all night. A Boat like the one in the Link would give me no worries at all. The walloping part seems to have always been a sailing thing for us. So having a boat that I didn't have to worry about while being walloped is what I most like about them. Having said that, there are many other makes that have a similar hull design. But none that I have so far come across have the same performance and comfort as the HR. So hence being my dream of choice. -
On 25/10/2019 at 10:26 AM, Black Panther said:
Careful, my wife would love that
Funny. so would mine.
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No not this "specific Boat", It's the HS stable that I hold in such high regard.
There are many boats out there that I would be very happy to be the owner of. And I guess that if a boat was a true "dream", I really should not worry about price and consider something brand new.
I agree the price is a tad high on this one and she is long in the tooth now. It may not just be the engine needing replacement.
And to be honest, All and any boats are going to remain in dream land. I doubt I am ever going to have enough money to buy another one day. Just not sure I am ready to be honest with myself and give up the dream. Reality can often be a bit depressing and I prefer to remain in my fantasy World for just now.😁 -
I know I have said this before. And to that, yes there are many Boats I would be very happy to be the owner of. However, I have always had one make close to my heart of Boats to have if I could ever own one.
Hallberg Rassy.
No particular model, just in general I have always adored them. Such a well designed vessel, designed and built by some of the greateest names in the industry.
Just incase anyone is looking for a boat at the mo, I though I would post this link. I don't know the owner or the boat personally. It is fairly long in the tooth now and it needs a new engine. Hence price and I think even then, the price might need to drop a tad further. But it is so tidy with a new deck. Oh if only I could afford it.
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/boats-marine/yachts/keeler/listing/3043353569?bof=xcto6eba
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10 hours ago, syohana said:
Your right that keeping it simple is the key. Don't confuse the unknown with complexity though.
An electric propulsion system has only one moving part (plus the balls in the bearings if you're pedantic). A diesel has hundreds of moving parts. The starter motor alone has more moving parts than a whole electric propulsion system!
Complexity is not just about moving parts though. In fact moving parts can be more reliable. It all just depends. If you use electronics as the example, the complexity is the individual components couple with solder joints and all coupled to the PCB and then all coupled to multiple units maybe. Any one individual connection can fail and bring the system crashing down. Then there is the complexity of the software. Yep something can last a lifetime and other things can fail out of the box. Many of the larger Superyacht and Ship mishaps have come down to failures in electronic control of stearing or propulsion. So it happens.
But don't get me wrong, I am not saying electronic is Bad. I am just saying everything has positives and negatives to be considered.
Aside from that though, the main issue of Electric propulsion is still in the storage re both charge time and capacity.
Once Hydrogen becomes accessible, that will change everything. 40,000 times more energy than Diesel per weight for weight. -
I have never understood why water pumps are so expensive. There is nothing too them. No electrical parts. Compare to something like say a winch with all the complexities in them. Even the parts to recon a pump are stupid expensive from the makers. As said, bearings and seals etc are a fraction of the price if you go to the bearing supplier. And impellors. Why so expensive?
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4 hours ago, Black Panther said:
Just like a combustion engine.
Well you could also consider, when did your engine last break down. It may seem like lots of engines break down. But with the number of engines out there, they are actually very reliable. Where as full electric has the complexity of Batteries, and Li being full of electronics, Chargers and other boxes full of electronics full of the magic smoke. Then the electric motors. Quite a complex system and I learned a very important lesson from you BP. Keep things simple. I used to be far too techy on my boat. I also seemed to be always replacing something. Some Pump, or some electronic thingy. And I thought you know? BP has a point. My next boat (if I ever get one) is going to remain simple.
Back to engines, the biggest problem the Airo industry has is not just the battery. Although they are getting very close to sorting that by the way. But the main issue is getting people to change their thinking to Electric propulsion actually being safe. It is probably safer, but that is not the perception. -
Warning, I linked you to a 54mm socket and then saw it was 56 you were after.
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1 hour ago, aardvarkash10 said:
Unfortch, its difficult to get to the correct torque if you use the hammer and cold chisel for installation.
Is it a key way on the shaft? I expect it would be.
Is there no locking tab? It's a washer that has a little inner tab which locks into the keyway and the outer of the washer is then bent up against the side of the nut.
You don't have to be too accurate re tightening to a torque setting if it is. You could even spot a little thread lock on it to hold it from becoming loose. Not too much incase you want to be able to remove it again in the future.
Or try Auck engineering supplies and ask for a single impact socket. They are not usually expensive. However, you likely will only be able to get it in 3/4 drive and that means you then need an adaptor and then of course it all adds up.
There is also a Wheel Bearing nut socket available that is 54mm. They are 1/2 drive and made from a thinner profile high strength steel. Special order via supercheap. But surely someone else like BNT might have one in stock seeing as most mechanics need one.
Or......who are these guys??????
https://1-day.co.nz/s/54mm socket?sc=s-
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On 4/04/2021 at 9:49 PM, Tamure said:
When energy density becomes cheaper and more easily rechargeable then sure, but the transition is going to take a long time.
Yep. In fact it never will. The energy content of a litre of liquid fuel is so huge, there is no way a battery is ever going to come close to storing such energy. There has to be some other rather large advantages.
If it is just about in and out of Marina so to speak, then electric is going to work. But it is a lot of money and complexity just to travel short distances.-
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I have been advising a few small businesses here. Things have changed since Covid hit. Although we all knew online shopping was a thing, C19 forced people to enter that world boots and all. The World has changed. People now let Google do the walking. And the potential buyer now has the time to wander arounf the world on their screen and look for the best deal.
A couple of points I have been stressing to them is, they must have a website as an important part of who they are as a business, They need to spend money on making it great, not just good. It is now your shop front. If you do not have a great website, you are better to not have one at all. It is no good to simply have a glorified on line business card.
Selling online needs to show sharp prices or something that makes someone want to buy the product from you rather than someone else that might be cheaper. For instance, maybe freight free.
SERVICE!!!!!! People have a microwace mentality. They stand at the microwave and wonder why it takes a long long long 30seconds to heat something. So they expect the same with service. If someone buys a product, you need to make the sale quick and easy. You need to acknowledge the sale and you need to get that product out the door ASAP and acknowledge it is on the way and give them Courier info once it is on the way. Tht way, if it shoud be delayed in arriving, the buyer realises it is courier and not the Retailer.
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Ih and for a puller, just use a flat plate with two threaded rodes that go into the bolt holes each side and place the centre bolt enough threads back in to make it secure and then wind the outer rodes to place tension in the flywheel. When you run out ior thread. put a spacer between centre bolt and plate. It does not take a lot of force to free it. Although pullers are cheap and very handy to have in the tool box. I'd go buy one and then you have it.
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On 3/04/2021 at 10:42 AM, Fogg said:
That’s to enable a single 32A supply to split across two 16A inlets
Ummmmm. but that set up shown goes back to one 16A Plug. Plus, if a fault were to ever develop, the inline sockets are 16A unprotected into a 32A supply. Not exactly legal. Not saying you shouldn't. I have been kown fot the odd "creative" wiring ideas when in need. But just be aware.
Yes two cables are best, or a single 32A and then split inside the panel with it's own 32a Breaker on supply and appropriat breakers to everything else -
It's usually undone by a Hammer and punch or chisel applied to the side of the nut. You can see where someone has had a go in the past.
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On 1/04/2021 at 5:38 PM, Fogg said:
Often they are positioned inside cockpit lockers (with a cutout in the lid to allow the cable through). This is my setup typical on production boats I’ve had.
What's with the two cable sockets split off one cable plug? I am surprised an inspector has allowed that.
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20 hours ago, Fogg said:
Because of the hundreds of boats that catch fire every year in NZ due to unsafe electrical systems.
That is not the sole reason. It is to ensure a high level if electrical safety in all area's. Remember back in the day, not that many years ago, where there were always complaints of the boat next door causing stray earth issues? When was the last time you heard of that?
Remember that our boats are in a place of high electrical shock potential. So having proper elctical wiring practice being adhered to is essential.
Electrical crimps gotta be done right!
in TechTalk
Posted
Expensive depends. Even with tools that "do the job OK" there is cheap and there is quality. It depends on the user. A pro doing lots of connections daily would be looking at the expensive end of the market. The likes of you and me need cheap as posible that can still get the job done OK. And of which, looking on trademe returned a great range of crimping tools, ranging from cheap through to mega expensive.
The annoying thing to me is that there are so many different types of crimp pins in the World, each requiring a specific type of crimping tool, that if you are in the game, you need to carry a truck load of very expensive tools.
Now, re this 5000 series cable. I have run and terminated litterally miles of this stuff through Stadiums around NZ. The main reason for us using it was the fire rating requirements. To strip the jacket and leave behind the clear plastic wrap means two things. Firstly, the user did not use the proper wire termination stripper tool. For a few connections, it is not critical, but if doing lots, the best tool is one that has a cutter of the correct wire diameter that cuts the entire multeple insultating jackets right through and the pulls the waste away from the cable in one complete action. It is essential that none of the conductors are damaged in anyway. The tolerances to do all this precisely are extreme close. The best tool on the market was made by a German manufacturer called Klien. However there are many cheaper makes that also work just as well.
Secondly, for anyone only doing a few ends without the right tool, it is totally possible, but just a little harder to do and thus inspection of the end should be carried out after stripping and the failure to remove the clear plastic should have been obvious. Any proffesional sparky should have known better and was not practicing in a proffesional way. Not saying that I am surperior to them. We have all made dumb mistakes over time. It's just that such mistakes should be used as a lesson to be better.