CarpeDiem
-
Content Count
1,219 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
38
Content Type
Profiles
Media Demo
Forums
Gallery
Calendar
Store
Posts posted by CarpeDiem
-
-
2 hours ago, Guest said:
With induction cook top I guess you could run the motor when in use to alleviate loss to battery. Still need 75m^2 to inverter tho. 2Kw for 15min is 40ish Ah, correct? Not allowing for invertor losses, and @12.8V
When is the target extinction date for LPG?
There's not really a date... Reality is the date will come and go and the only thing that might change is the price of gas...
LPG will be replaced with bioLPG which is chemically identical to LPG, but can approach net zero emissions. You could replace your 9kg cylinder with bioLPG today and there'd be no difference, your appliances would operate exactly the same.
The Government pipe dream of a 2050 net zero New Zealand signals that the transition will happen in the next 25 years
Yes, approximately 40Ah at 12v.
-
1
-
-
4 hours ago, LBD said:
I have been having a look at those... would love to know of any around NZ and how well thy are liked.... or diisliked.
I am also trying to see if they can be gimbled and if not, what is the maximum pitch and heel angles.
Apparently they can be gimbaled. But I am at a loss to understand how you'd gimbal it with the exhaust requirements...
-
37 minutes ago, Ladyhawk said:
That cooker was noisy as hell too, weird cyclic buzzing sound that got on our nerves lol
Magnetostriction. The amount of this is more about the cookware than the cooker. But it's pretty hard to eliminate altogether...
-
40 minutes ago, Lindsay said:
Does anyone here have experience with a diesel stove?
I looked at them but found the exhaust flu/chimney requirements just wouldn't work for our boat layout.
https://wallas.fi/product/87-d/
-
8 hours ago, ballystick said:
Thanks, CD, there are some pretty good set ups out there, 48V would be ideal for a new build. I have seen a few with 12v if you can reduce your usage possibly. If the inverter was mounted close to the battery then the current path would be quite short reducing the problem of cable sizing loss, then the 230V can be distributed longer distances with smaller cabling
You can't escape the cable requirements.
Even at 50mm between your battery and your 3kva inverter you still need a 240amp cable which will be 75mm2.
You could derate your inverter by installing a switch board with 10amp breakers, but this will drive your cost up fast as it requires an electrician and a inverter that can have a MEN configuration. Most inverters used in 12v cheap installations are IT, they have the plug/socket on them and you shouldn't run multiple devices off a single plug.
I am yet to find a 12v LFP battery on the NZ market that is rated for 1C discharge. Most are 0.5C. Victron have a 0.7C at 24v. So already your into more expensive battery tech. An incorrectly sized cable on a 35deg day under the bunk is a fire hazzard waiting to happen...
3kva at 12v is extremely inefficient.
I am not saying it can not be done, just getting it right and making it safe needs some fore thought, you could end up finding that for an extra 10% spent a 24v or 48v system is the more efficient option requiring less solar, a smaller alternator and a smaller battery.
-
1
-
-
2 hours ago, Frank said:
Foot Note
A while back we calibrated the system monitor and needed to take the battery down to about 10% . From memory we had to boil 36 jugs of water (1L) together with a heat gun on low power and all the lights one etc it took well over an hour as I recall and the solar was disconnected. Day to day we have never sucked it below 75% but that might change when we are in the SI in Autumn.
What sized cables do you have on that? To meet the standard @ 240amps/3kw you'd need 70mm2 for a 1m distance between battery and inverter.
That's some pretty hefty cable
-
13 hours ago, Romany said:
anybody in Akld area have a part pack they want to sell (aside from retailers I mean)? I presume it doesn't go off in the can so I guess I could keep it for next time but would rather spend my cash on topsides paint atm.
I have 16 x 9, 2 blade so I need bugger all of this stuff.
The clear coat must be used completely or discarded after opening it can't be resealed.
The other parts have a 2 yr shelf life from date of manufacture if sealed properly.
I get between 2 and 2.5 years out of my applications so no point saving it...
-
1
-
-
2 hours ago, ballystick said:
Now insurance companies coming down hard on gas systems, requiring gas certificates for systems that have been present in boats including production boats since launch date, 30 years plus. After my last gas cert bill of $1600 plus I am contemplating switching to LiFePo4 batteries, incuction hobs and an air fryer oven in a solar/alternator combo, has anyone completed this changeover locally, what size inverter and battery Ah sizing etc?
Depending on needs you'll probably want to consider a 48v system with 2 - 3kwh of available power. With this you will want a 48v alternator and a 48v inverter probably a 3kw inverter so you're not running it at its limit... Your induction cooktop (assuming dual hob) will easily pull 2.8kw of you're running an oven at the same time as boiling water you could expect to top out a 3kw inverter.
At this point you're up around $10k (and that's being really generous). You also need an engine with enough power take off available so you can motor and charge the batteries at 2-3kw, if you don't have that much excess horse power available then you'll need a smart alternator regulator that backs off the charge current as you speed up while motoring.
You could technically do it with 12v but you'll be pulling some big cables around to carry sufficient power and the feasibility of this would depend on the layout and location of all your components... You'd need a kick arse full frame alternator that might not fit in your engine bay.
If you have space for enough solar panels to generate 2kwh/day then you'd be up for another chunk of cash.
What I recommend doing is purchasing a watt meter, an el cheapo induction cooktop and actually try living off it for a week, cook all your meals on it, boil your water on it etc, if you have a little oven plug that into it. Get an idea of how many wh you can expect to use per day and then size your system from that.
-
2
-
-
why do you want to fill them? For aesthetics?
-
So I am hearing the boats went to Mahurangi and decided not to participate on the Monday in the passage race.
It's always surprised me that so many boats race to Mahurangi but don't do the Auckland Regatta passage race home on the Monday.
-
33 minutes ago, k88 said:
We race up to Mahurangi Friday nite and plenty boats up there.
Your post implies you didn't do the Auckland Regatta - Mahurangi to Auckland race back to Auckland today - is that right?
-
We managed to rip the channel select knob off the front of the VHF
Fortunately the microphone has a way to change the channel so we can still use the unit just fine.
Anyone know of repair option? Ideally I would like to buy the part and diy the install.
Thanks
-
The rule has been ignored. It's been a requirement since "forever".
This has been covered a few times in a few threads on crew.
There's quite a bit of international case law. Some dating back over a 100 years, where anchored boats have been found a contributing factor in an incident cause they did not have a look out. This has been applied to both commercial and recreational vessels.
MaritimeNZ interpretation comes down from the treaty and prior international case law.
One previous thread with more content is over here:
-
1
-
-
55 minutes ago, Above-the-Fold said:
Thanks for the comments and thoughts.
The batteries come with a jack for a 12v outlet; you hook them up with the motor running. Last summer they were charging to about 13.4 that way. But this year, so far, I can't get them above 12.9.
I think the mains charging is doing a better job, although it's slow with my teeny charger. But the one on charge is now up to 13.4 when I put a multimeter on it and still not "fully charged" according to the charger.
We'll see how it goes. I'll post the stats on the batteries if this process doesn't solve the problem.
MS
Yeah we need more details to be able to assist.
Assuming LFP chemistry:
If you're charging at 13.4v then they actually are not (really) charging. LFP needs a voltage differential of ~600mV to push li-ions across the electrolyte. That equates to ~3.4v/cell. At 13.4v the cell voltage is 3.35v/cell which isn't really enough to charge past around 30% capacity.
Assuming typical lfp specs, with the correct charger, you could fully charge the battery in ~2hours.
Don't confuse charging voltage with charged/resting voltage. 13.4v is the fully charged resting voltage after charging is complete and the charger shuts down. You could (technically) charge your battery to 16.8v and the next day it will be ~13.4v this is just how LFP chemistry behaves. Voltage isn't a indicator of SoC, other than indicating you have over 0% remaining - which is kind of useless.
Any voltage over 13.6v and the battery is charging. If you were to maintain this voltage the battery would eventually over charge and become damaged.
-
Can you post the specs on the battery? Photos of all the fine print, any writing, brand, model, etc would be good...
Also, how are you charging it onboard? Specs on your charger would be helpful too...
-
2 hours ago, Psyche said:
I'm guessing the helm is wearing one as protection from spray and wind since nobody else has one.
Yes, on the VOR boats, these are actually called "spray helmets".
You will mainly see them being worn by the trimmer and the helm. But usually just the helm.
They let the helm continue to drive the boat while consistently taking a face full of water.
-
1
-
-
46 minutes ago, Guest said:
What about a boom brake as opposed preventers? Am wondering just what the consequences are of a boom held aback in an extreme wind shift arse slew? I have a simple figure 8’r , which never got used in favour of preventers.
Just to avoid shock loading and give crew time / less force to avoid.
Not having used one, but I don't see that these devices would help... from what I have watched they are for reducing forces on the gear after the boom has swung through the cockpit. Which is the job of a good mainsheet operator...
If you gybe with the preventer on, and for some reason didn't recover when you saw the main backing (eg autopilot failure) and it continued the upwind turn into the new weather, then I would expect the boat to just round up into the new weather, come to a stand still, hove too - albeit with a fair bit of heel if the conditions were ripe... I wouldn't expect the roundup forces to have a significant effect until you were through to around 145 - 150 TWA... eg, way through the gybe... prior to that I think you could still recover.
The transition from down downhill flat sailing to stopped with a 45degree heel on the opposite tack would probably cause significant beer spillage - and you'd run a serious risk of losing a bottle or two over the side!
Given the price of beer these days, I think any appropriate risk assessment, done with the correct parameters and appropriate inputs, would clearly rule out the use of a gybe preventer in all but the lightest of conditions.
-
1
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, K4309 said:
The fact that so many other race boats can work it out demonstrates it is not hard.
"many other" is relative.
I can't think of any boat I have raced on with a high enough boom I could safely stand under it...
Elliott 1050, Ross 930, Elliott 10.5, TP52, Farr 1020, Bull12000, Elliott 10. Ross 35, Farr 11, Cookson 47, Cookson 12, Young 88, Young 11, Bene 323... None of these I could safely stand under...
The one boat I have sailed on, but wasn't racing, was a Hanse 400e that boom was far away...
Looking around there's a Farr 1220 and a Chico 40 either side of us that have high enough booms... But I don't think that this was a design consideration for the majority of the NZ fleet. Maybe I just pick short boats...
-
44 minutes ago, Addem said:
I recently sailed on a Ross 35 and was astonished how low the boom sits with the sail raised. Easily at shoulder height when standing on tbe cockpit sole (im not supe r tall) . Is this normal for these boats? Are they reliant on the spring vang to pop it up in the gybe? Or has someone made a longer leech in the main ?
Normal. This is a pretty standard height for boats of this era.
-
24 minutes ago, K4309 said:
That is a nonsense statement. The helmsman isn't the one that gets hit by the boom, it's all the other crew. Usually a trimmer standing up.
I have witnessed four people who have been hit by a boom, nothing serious but enough of a bang to have them on the deck holding their head and pretty much out of action. One had on going problems which took around 24 months to fully recover from...
Three of these incidents were the helms person. Each one on a different boat.
Over the years I have also taken a couple of taps to the head while helming Carpe Diem, these have been during tacks, never in a gybe.
So definitely not a nonsense statement.
-
3
-
-
Wouldn't it make more sense to add a gybe preventer than a helmet?
We carry a ski helmet for going up the rig underway.
-
2
-
-
1 hour ago, Clipper said:
Cool. Just ordered a roll. Ive heard great things - any advice on how to use?
I roll out a thin strip, stick it down, wrap it around the nut and crank it down. Have never had a bed-it leak...
The recommend process is a bit more multi-phase...
-
Great work getting this in and making it available. Thanks!
-
I have had experience with gasket hoop and won't touch it again.
Making gaskets is incredibly easy. Although time consuming.
I made my first one last Sunday for my heat exchanger/exhaust manifold.
It was oddly satisfying... I was wrapped with how easy it was.
I watched this video... Purchased a craft knife set and a litle ball pein hammer some gasket paper and I had a gasket within 4 hours!
Now unfortunately the factory one I had already ordered and paid for showed up a week earlier than expected before I got to reassembly. But I have absolutely no doubt that my home made gasket would of worked...
-
1
-
Gas out, induction in!
in TechTalk
Posted
It's never.
The current proposal is that bottled LPG will be replaced by bottled bioLPG by or before 2050 there is no end to bottled gas proposed. NZ industry/govt needs to get its sh*t together and build a manufacturing plant. There was one proposed for 2020 but it's still on hold.
Connections to the natural gas network (not lpg) are a different kettle of fish. But nothing is currently confirmed and no date has been set and it might not even happen.