CarpeDiem

Oh yeah, my version of that software shows them as well. Don't use that very often. they are quite old, which leads me too... My Orca Maps was showing them and then they disappeared, like each time I zoomed in they were there and then they were gone, it's like the chart has been updated, they have been removed and the latest version doesn't have them...

That is kind of weird.... The text on the "paper" chart does not show up on the LINZ s63 vector charts - which is kind of strange, as the paper charts are supposedly from the s63 charts. And the s63 charts I have in OpenCPN do not show the channel, neither does Navionics... Meanwhile this is CMAP....Which is also generated from the s63 maps.... so where CMAP get this from I have no idea.

I am looking to borrow/rent a Series Drogue and a Sea Anchor to suit a 11m 5000kg displacement for a month to 6 weeks over June? Famous last words, but they are highly unlikely to need to be used in anger... If anyone can assist please get in touch.

If a decision is made it's being kept a good secret. Given council is notoriously bad at keeping sectets I would say that means no decision... I was pleasantly surprised to be notified Friday that we won't see a rent increase for 2025/26 definitely wasn't expecting that!

If buying new I would recommend a SOTDMA device over the older CSTDMA devices particularly if going off shore. Often called "Class B+" or "Class B SO" or some derivative there of... Good choice on the Orca Core! Epic little unit. The sailing processor alone is worth it - unfortunately B&G displays won't play like I want with it After a whole lot of experimenting I discovered that you cannot turn off dampening on the B&G displays for the NMEA2K wind PGN. Even setting the dampening to "0", (which I had assumed was off), they refuse to display what is actually being trans

It would be beneficial to add a with/without weed option to the spreadsheet as well.

Of course. And therefore the sane logic applies to LTO 😜

Well you don't *need* a bms for LFP either... It's there just in case... And there's zero point balancing if you aren't charging to atleast 2.75v / cell A fully charged LTO cell (eg 2.9v @0.02C) settles at around 2.88v over 24hrs - it's not like LFP.

Yep 6 cells in the LTO. I charged the LTO to 14.4v. Apparently this really stresses the glow plugs, but I didn't burn them out. I don't think that LTO is worth it on a boat. But if the price comes down and I can find some glow plugs it might start making sense. I pretty sure you still need a charge controller with I-term - if you just run the alternator at 14v I think that just like with LFP you will still overcharge LTO if you run for eg days on a long journey - but the literature is pretty light for LTO so I do not know for sure... I have a generic drop-in and I don't charge with sh

I have not really gotten to the bottom of it - there's a new (2022) AS/NZS standard which applies to Li batteries in habitable areas. Some people are applying the new 2022 standard to boats in Australia although from what I can tell it only applies to RVs. But the CYCA are pretty safety conscious these days so it's probably in some NoR safety regulation... That standard requires Li batteries be installed in vapor proof area that vents outside and draw's it's air from the underneath but also from the outside. Any cables must be through vapor proof cable glands. Pretty much the same as

I put one in for the anchor winch as a trial, although the LFP was actually just fine, but the LTO ripped that anchor up faster than anything... then I moved it to the land cruiser which is 24v start and doesn't have glow plugs, it has a like a mesh heater that heats the air intake - it starts amazingly fine off a 12v LTO, better than it did off the 24v!!! Because the boat has glow plugs, I am not prepared to run an LTO start battery until I can find some compatible glow plugs - I have not really searched that hard... I am sure there's some available After a very fun SSANZ Northern T

Sorry LTO start/winch battery IT said "NO"

You can opt out of this. There's a established process and you simply fill out a form and submit it to your the club you want to keep your levy. It's of course up to your yacht club if it's worth the effort to retain the $... And they might or might not refund it to you.

Not me. But better to get two separate units imho.

I am on my 3rd year of Ultra 2. I had an interesting experience in Northland - boat was cleaned by divers in Westhaven. One hour later I took it to Bay of Islands, it sat for 3 days on a mooring in Russell, by which time it was covered in a thick layer of slime. Before coming back to Auckland, (2 weeks ago), we wiped the hull and keel with a sponge, (I now know why I pay divers to do this, but that's another story), it's now been sitting in Westhaven for 2 weeks and is pretty much in the same state that we left BoI in.... There's definitely something in the water up there that

Yes and yes - that is normal.

Yep. We were all entered and looking forward to the Mahurangi to Auckland race as part of our Bay Week return. But with the Friday afternoon forecast predicting 36knots on the nose for the Monday we left Russell Friday and decided to sail through. That's two years in a row for us. Hopefully next year will be better.

The CEO is responsible to the board. The board sets the rules. Five board members are elected and nominated by the member clubs. A further 4 board members are appointed by the 5 elected board members. Member clubs can remove board members. If people want change, then it starts with their club(s), and they can get on a club committee and make sh*t happen. Being a board member of YNZ has got to be a thankless job - and it's voluntary! This thread has actually made me research and understand some of what YNZ do, living in my big boat racing bubble, I am happy for my th

They have a board of directors. Elected members get nominated by member clubs and are voted in at the AGM by the member clubs. Board members have a 3 year term.

Of course - that's exactly how club membership works.

Surely the starting point is to ask YNZ to fix whatever is broken? This starts with our sailing clubs. If club members think that YNZ is missing the mark then they can approach the appropriate club committee, get on the committee and start the process of change. Yachting NZ meeting minutes are littered with clubs asking for YNZ to change. Eg, introducing the capability for multiclub members to only contribute to YNZ once. If changes are required then YNZ needs to hear it from their membership. If clubs do not like the response or lack of action then clubs can take it up

Can't be done for racing. World Sailing stipulates a country can only have one MNA, which for us is Yachting NZ. Clubs need to put pressure on YNZ to change if change is required. With the exception of PHRF, I don't know what other value YNZ add to my small patch of the sport. The three clubs I am a member of don't exactly sing the praises of YNZ in any publications they produce. I reached out to YNZ once when the BOI mammal sanctuary was taking submissions. They replied that they were putting in a submission. That was good enough for me. But there's literally nothing on

I have just started using Seam Tech. A great little operation - I recommend. https://seamtech.co.nz/

The riser in the wet exhaust line helps to prevent the lift muffler from filling due to waves smacking into the exhaust outlet. If the high point of your wet exhaust pipe is above the exhaust mixer which most yachts are, then the system is inherently unsafe and a vacuum breaker is good insurance although that won't save you if the exhaust line fills. When you stop the engine any water in the wet exhaust riser runs back into the lift muffler. If the lift muffler becomes full enough and seals the muffler then a vacuum can pull water from your water intake, past the impellor and flood

It an anti-siphon/vacuum breaker valve. As the engine cools a vacuum is created and this vacuum can be strong enough to start a siphoning effect. The release valve stops the engine from back siphoning the sea water, filling the exhaust and hydro locking the engine. I would certainly not remove it without a detailed study to determine if it's necessary which can be done by consulting the engine installation manual and the position of the exhaust mixer and lift muffler in relation to the water line. They need maintenance. Open the valve on the top and clean out any salt crystals.