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Everything posted by CarpeDiem

  1. Perhaps portable 12volt unit. Engle do a great unit with lockdown feet that can be secured in place easily and quickly. They also do insulated bags to save battery on those longer races. Our engine driven fridge has also died - the cost to replace it is astronomical cause of the woodwork - but if I ever did replace it properly - I would be with an Ozefridge and custom cabinet. So I am also seriously considering the less expensive Chainsaw/Portable approach.
  2. Wow, nice boat - where is this? This will work, up above I said: Boats that don't have a means of stopping [the furler spinning], it's a question of when, not if, ... I was not trying to imply that a 2:1 was the only way of stopping the spinning.. What they are relying on here is one of two things, and it's difficult to tell from your photo angles which, but I am guessing that the 2:1 shackle is at 90deg to the furling line? If so then the eye splice pulls the soft shackle through the low friction ring, the soft shackle then contacts the low friction ring at two points
  3. I was asked over in the For Sale section: Curious to hear your comments on the noticed real world differences between the Precision 9 and the RC42N 2 races now. For Wednesday night racing, flat, round the boys, Auckland Harbour. There was zero difference in the performance of the compass. For the Akarana 350 when taking the rum line from Channel Is to the poor night's we had 2+m seas on the beam while going past the various Great Barrier headlands. These were breaking and sets of 3 big ones were coming in every 10 mins. In this instance the difference was chalk and c
  4. Also, as I missed your original question... A suggestion.. Lash a low friction ring to that stainless fitting at the end of the prod. Then option a Put an eye splice in your line and cow hitch this to the prod. After you have set it all up, cranked this on and let the cow hitch settle, stitch it so it cannot open up. Warning, this creates a risk that your prod could get crushed, over to you to work out if that is likely based on loads. Opton b if worried about pole crush. Put a small eye splice in the end. Lash a line around the prod through the eye spli
  5. Can you cut the plug off and install a new nmea plug at the bus end? Failing that, then we use a "solder splice", (Google it, it's a thing), and for backup we cover that with glue heat shrink. Time consuming and you need to strip back more wire to get the glue heat shrink away from the heat that's generated when solder splicing. I thought the CAN-BUS cabling was twisted pair? You might get signal degradation if that's the case...
  6. CarpeDiem

    Rubber bungs

    Mitre 10 Mega have a selection in the bolts and nuts section. Para rubber has a more comprehensive selection.
  7. Yes. Multiple different boats more times than I wish to remember. Boats that don't have a means of stopping it, it's a question of when, not if, it will become a cluster at the worst possible moment. The way it stops spinning without this, is relying on tension in each side of the continuous furling line and to a smaller extent, 'rope-memory', in the tack line. Tension is usually achieved by taking the furling line aft to a bungied block. I have seen that bungie get released and because the luff torsion rope was still loaded with torque the furling line took 10+ wraps around the
  8. Was that sarcasm? I found it remarkably simple. You can write as much or as little as you like or just choose from the drop downs in the survey. Have your say people...
  9. That's pretty bad of them, it sends the wrong message. They should be promoting that this unit is old technology, that there are much better solutions AND that a certified battery change will cost the same as a new and better unit. FYI, the MT403 doesn't have a GNSS (aka GPS) receiver. Also, a large number of MT403's were recalled due to a design fault. If you're not going off shore, or need Cat 1/2 then you might consider a PLB instead of a EPIRB. All of our crew have PLBs in their life jackets. We don't have a boat EPIRB.
  10. That went to Australia. Renamed Easy Tiger III. https://www.sail-world.com/NZ/Easy-Tiger-III-joins-Melges-32-fleet/-106529?source=google
  11. We have a one of the original VP calorifiers for fresh hot water from back in the day that Volvo sold/made them When we upgraded the engine from the raw water cooled 2003 engine to the D1-30 we didn't reconnect the calorifier due to the fact that we didn't want to start pumping the coolant through pipes that were contaminated with salt water. What's peoples views on the possibility of flushing the heat exchanger, maybe with salt-away and heaps of fresh and starting using it again on the d1-30? Or should we just be looking at replacing it so as not to risk harming the engine in
  12. 5 years old. Working perfectly. Nmea 2000. Upgraded to a Precision 9 and have decided not to keep both on the network. Pickup Westhaven or Takapuna. Will advertise on Trademe next week.
  13. Harken has trysail switch tracks. Which, as the name suggests, switches two lower tracks onto one main mast track.
  14. I have seen Parrel Beads around the mast. Of the very few trysails I have seen up, they hoist above the first spreaders, so I don't see how you'd attach the head, maybe you don't? This is from the Ran Tan II Facebook page when they did a prestart driveby, no idea if this was their proper setup or they were just mocking it up... I really liked the idea but haven't investigated it any further.... I have also seen setups where the main halyard is attached to the goose neck and cranked on, then the trysail is hanked on to the halyard with soft hanks and hoisted using the topping li
  15. You have too not need fumigation, not be bio-fouled and have provisions for the remainder of the 12 day period. Provisions includes being fully self contained, including power/gas, fresh water and appropriate black water treatment/storage space. Otherwise it's off to quarantine...
  16. Thanks. Appreciate the details. Would love a photo of your headboard? I assume it's a custom build... Your setup sounds the same as ours, except for the the built in block, which would only make the issue I am concerned about worse. I feel I am creating an issue where one does not exist, so I will convert to a 2:1 and see how it goes... Thanks all.
  17. Div C was shortened to Torpedo, all other divisions were finished at Westhaven.
  18. Due to the lack of wind and the tide, a number of boats were OCS. (Including us). A few boats, (we saw three), used their motor to return to the correct side of the start line to start. As a friendly FYI, this is not allowed. Your propellor is not allowed to be engaged from the time of the preparatory signal, (4 mins), and certainly not after the start signal. No naming/shaming... I realise it's a long shot that the skippers will even see this, but figured I would try. I will also try and track down the three boats and mention it privately. Fwiw, the three boats we did s
  19. Yes, but now there are two ropes stopping the headboard from twisting. The same as why you use a 2:1 on the downhaul for Code Zero furler - to stop the Furler from twisting. If you have one rope going to the bottom of the furler the rope can twist on itself and so the furler spins on the centre line of the rope (a mistake I will not make again), so adding a 2:1 the two ropes prevent the furler from spinning. Thanks. That's the Doyle Anomaly Headboard. I can't see how it doesn't suffer from the problem I am trying to resolve. Thanks for that - it's a neat idea and solves ano
  20. I want to change the main halyard to a 2:1. There is a lot of weight in the main and the load of the full battens makes it time consuming to shake out a reef, it cannot be done without winching. I can see that when we put in a 2:1 into the mast head crane that the 2:1 is going to stop the top of the sail from being able to twist sideways. With a square top I see this putting a lot of sideways load on the headboard. I see a lot of boats with square tops running 2:1 halyards but I can't see how they eliminate this problem of stopping the headboard from turning outboard.
  21. Most of the links on the official website for the tracking map are broken. But you can find it here.
  22. Every drop in LiFePO4 battery I have looked at, specifies if it can or cannot be parallelled and even the maximum number of units that can be paralleled together. I haven't researched the reason for this limitation. I have found that the cheaper drop-in units don't support paralleling. I would not parallel anything that says it cannot be and would definitely not parallel anything that doesn't specify the capability.
  23. Why do you make that assertion? (Not that it is wrong, but I don't see the relevance). They aren't advertised as being Lithium Polymer, nothing says they are LiPo. They are advertised as LiFePO4...?!
  24. So it has four settings. The manual is pretty light on what these do? Polar, Actual, Manual, Table. I am guess that Polar needs a h5000? What does Actual and Manual do? I seem to get no lines on Actual. Is there a way to add more intermediate rows to the table? Thanks
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