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CarpeDiem last won the day on June 28

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About CarpeDiem

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  1. haha - trying to work out what you were on about... yep my maths is way out - CD was launched in '95, built by Bish Marine. So the cables are most likely 27yrs old!
  2. I have just successfully replaced my throttle assembly with the spinlock system. Is it a worthwhile exercise to replace the control cables? They aren't stiff and they operate smoothly. There is no sign of wear on the outside sheath. They would be as old as the boat (27yrs) I have no idea of the internal condition. I only ask cause the throttle assembly, which was the same age, imploded catastrophically resulting in a near miss. And if I had looked at that two weeks ago I would of thought it just fine... nek minute. The last thing I want is a broken gear cab
  3. Did you use all the offset spacers? The body I got lines up perfectly with the spinlock holes... Do you just have the body suspended by the same screws that hold the spinlock plate on?
  4. Sparky, at $21M, is roughly twice the cost of an equivalent new diesel tug. Using todays prices, it will cost one third as much to run as that equivalent tug would. So financially Sparky wins and will only get cheaper as the price of oil increases. In 2019, the equivalent strength Hauraki, used 191000 liters of diesel equating to 515 tCO2e Sparky will use approximately 502MWh to operate in the same way, this equates to 50 tCO2e which would mean an annual saving of 465 tCO2e.
  5. I use mine for anything liquid... When I recently emptied the diesel tank I used a cheap transfer pump from burnsco.
  6. Where does one purchase foam from? After an actual shop name/supplier in Auckland.
  7. On the later engines they are all canbus anyway... My previous post was kind of mis-leading saying, I should have gone for the "analog volvo temperature display"... what I should of said "I should of gone for the Volvo CanBus temperature display that looks like analoguen dial but isn't " It was, in hindsight, a waste of money installing the CANBUS -> NMEA converter for no real gain except engine temperature. I didn't know at the time that the engine had no sensors other than temperature. I have often wondered if I needed a true backup incase the CANBUS died - known as MDI b
  8. This is my old throttle control hole. What would be the approved way of repairing this? I was thinking: 1. Grind out the edges so it's convex inside and out 2. Cut a piece of ply that is 10mm less thickness than the depth of the hole (5mm each side) 3. Fibreglass over the ply and into the convex edges... Inside and out. Having never done this before I have no idea if I am on the right track...
  9. Be aware of what your engine actually provides. It disappointed me that the my Volvo D1-30 had very little sensors. Coolant temperature, RPM and engine hours were all it provided on the canbus iirc. (maybe alt voltage... ) In hindsight I found it an expensive investment for having those things on my mfd. Had I known all I was really getting was temperature, I would of opted for a analogue Volvo temperature dial. Oil pressure, oil temperature, coolant pressure would all of made it far more worthwhile, but the sensors aren't there...
  10. Yep. My inside mechanism is in pieces. It seems to be some kind of compound fiber/resin/poly construction. From the photos I have seen it wouldn't of been compatible. But it's irrelevant now...
  11. Ouch. Mine is definitely the handle/lever inside mechanism. It's now in more pieces than it started the day. It's dual cable driven. One for the throttle one for the gear box. I don't know what model I currently have. I just want to replace the whole thing but I would like to be able to put the Spinlock control on the outside... Spinlock says it needs a Teleflex mechanism but I can't find much about it online.
  12. Can anyone point me to the inside throttle assembly for a typical yacht? I need to replace mine and I want to use the Spinlock control. But I can't work out what to put on the inside. Ours imploded tonight when switching to reverse and the throttle got jammed at a 100% full ahead unable to move or slow. We had a near miss with a fizz boat that was coming out of the marina. So near that our prod swept across their cockpit and someone literally ducked under the prod. Killed the engine and managed to get a rope round a pile... Sheesh!
  13. No precedent set as settled out of court. So it can't be used in any future cases. Any future claims are back to square one. Which will be why the council settled out of court. The only loser is the rate payer.
  14. A good article - thanks for the link BP. @aardvarkash10 I can't find any mention of wearing a fixed buoyancy vest over the top an inflatable vest? Is that what you meant? One of my sea survival course instructors drummed into me years ago, never wear anything over an inflatable, he had witnessed someone with a rain jacket over the top having to have their inflatable burst with a knife because they couldn't breath...
  15. Yes. So long as Bean Rock is left to port after Motukorea it doesn't make any difference how far to port it is left. Think of the coastal classic course - "little barrier to stb, poor knights to stb". It does not matter how far to stb these are left. We, (generally), go no where near Little Barrier. In the past there have been some tricky courses from clubs, one I remember very clearly, over 20yrs ago, was reso(p), chelsea(s), stanley(p), finish(odm). Of course there was no reason at all to go anywhere near Stanley... Stb rounding of the ODM left Stanley to port... bo
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