CarpeDiem

I tried. Couldn't buy it. Professional use only they said. Aka - I was not part of the aporoved cartel. I found a group in Australia that sold it but looked no further so no idea how hard it is to ship/import.

What are the specs? Inside diameter, outside diameter, EI, compressive strength? The later two will need to come from the manufacturer.

For us it's been about regular maintainance and how much the boat moves. We had Ultra 2 for 6 years in Westhaven cleaned with a rag every 3-4 weeks. We redid it last September. Not because we needed to but because the boat had to come out for a week to drop the rudder. I reckon it had another year left in it. I put Ultra2 Grey on again. In 5 years time I will look at Coppercoat again. It's a bit of a major exercise... But it would be nice to get 12years instead of 6.

A couple of tears but in other wise good condition for its age. Missing panels aren't important. Kite seems to work fine without them at 30+ knots. But if you do want them too they are available for collection just north of Cape Jackson. Free drop-off in Waikawa. #RNI2026

After 12 years NZ has finally updated the Electrical Regulations that apply to recreational vessels and Lithium batteries. An amendment to the Electricity (Safety) Regulations 2010 now cites AS/NZS 3004.2:2014 This came into force Nov 2025. Primarily, what this means for eveyone here, is that you'll no longer have to put up with me and @Island Timedisagreeing on which standard applies

You will need to provide an import number to your agent if it's over a threshold. You can apply for one via the customs website but usually the agent can apply on your behalf - takes about a day for customs to issue you with a number if the agent applies and 5 days if you apply directly. Ups's nz agent will invoice you for the gst. You pay it and they ship it. They charge to store the item in their warehouse so do not delay.

The wind gear has a terminator built in. So you just run it off the end of the backbone. What model transducer? It's possible it has a terminator but I don't know - worth checking the product code.

Tiller. Westhaven.

Bottom line... It depends on the inspector... The 2014 standard which seems to be the one most look to, states that a plate is required. It must be 0.1m2, min 5mm thick and min 20mm wide. However the 2008 standard is the one that's legally required to be adhered to. I don't have that standard and don't know what it says about equipotential bonding. I just did a mates in Westhaven in November, I used the saildrive for the bond, (with a galvanic isolator), and the inspector ewof'd it...

This is the same as the Jefa DD1. I have one I am in the process of installing. It's not zero resistance with the clutch disengaged. You're still turning planetary gears which are in a sea of grease but you're not also turning the motor.

We used to be on the far end of Q and got moved closer to the motorway - that resulted in a lot more road grime (tire dust) landing on the boat - it was very noticeable but then we got used to it.

Have you checked the gear lever mechanism on the Saildrive? The Morse controller can find some funny midpoint where they are in gear but the prop can still spin. Does the prop still spin if if you put it into gear? Then my next step would be to split the engine and saildrive. If you have full service records at 350 hours, I we would be making a claim under the CGA. There's no way Volvo would say that their engines might only last 350hours and that's a reasonable failure interval. If it was 3500 then that would be different... But 350 is substantially below what any normal per

You need to get the forestay off, the fitting off, grind everything back, removing all paint and fully inspect everything. Do you know if the forestay can be safely disconnected, and the mast made safe? If not, step 1 is to consult a rigger, worst case you'll have to unstep the mast, best case a rigger will be able to make the mast safe in the marina so you can get to work.

Looks good! You could choose a durepox xtreme clear instead of a poly u. I just did my carbon spin pole with it. When I redo the tiller I will swap out the polyu for the durepox now that I am familiar with it. Burnsco have the high performance clear which isn't as good as the xtreme but it's still pretty good. you'll need to get the xtreme from Resene Automotive. It's got rock solid uv protection.

I did 3 coats of west 207 clear followed by a couple of international 2 pack polyurethane coats for the uv protection. The epoxy gives the depth and the look of 12 coats.