CarpeDiem

A friend of mine who just started the IVC process has been advised by MaritimeNZ that Starlink doesn't meet the offshore communication requirements. He has been advised it has to be Iridium or HF radio.

Are these JL Audio things tough? I have been through 4 $50ish El cheapo speakers sets in the last few years with crew putting their feet through them. I note that Motorboat II has had the large fusion speakers for ages and given their placement there's absolutely no way that they wouldn't have taken a beating over the last few years... In fact I saw a video from the last RNZ and the things were submerged. If the fronts of the JL's are as strong as the Fusions then I will go the JL path... But I am reluctant to invest that much in a speaker that the crew is going to stick a fo

1972?! To have just found that, your chart table must be in another dimension, like the Tardis and my partners handbag

MX Mariner is a hobbyist project - it's currently unavailable to new customers and existing customers aren't getting updates. The project owner is currently redeveloping it to support ENC charts because Raster charts are slowly getting pulled. There's no ETA. It's a great little product, at a wonderful price point, but with that price point comes all the hidden issues of cheap.

I have one of these somewhere. I purchased it a few years ago from somewhere called Toad marine in the hope I needed a new one to stop my luff coming out on hoists... It did not help. I am not going to get to find it this side of coastal. But if you are still looking next week I can part with it for cost.

yeah - very expensive $3k+ Thanks, I have seen that video and several others - they tend to use an Al mandrel which has the unique properties that it expands when heated and shrinks when cooled, so it compresses the tube and then shrinks away from it Obtaining an aluminium tube that is of suitable dimensions is very expensive as well - hence I have a plastic drainpipe that doesn't have the unique properties of Al

I would like to make a non structural tube. The ID will be about 200mm and the length 2.5m. It doesn't need to be very strong, it just needs to be able to survive the odd hard bang, probably from a head. The purpose of the tube is to provide a cavity for the prod to get retracted into. So it will be installed on the roof of the forward berth. Currently when we plough through a wave the boat fills with water, our usual solution to this problem is extract the prod and fill the void with Bed-IT tape - this results in the boat being water proof but we can't retract the prod unless

BYOB for under 49ft is already sold out.

You just need an ongoing ticket out of Fiji. It can be to anywhere. So buy your ticket from Asia to Fiji, and buy another fully refundable ticket from Fiji to NZ. Doesn't even have to be the same airline. If you want to do the legit process your skipper will need to apply to the Fiji Department of Immigration, paying the necessary fees and completing the necessary paperwork to get you a letter of approval, they'll need to be already in Fiji and then they'll need to post you that letter. This letter will need to be presented to the airline when you board, they won't let you board witho

If you want to avoid the complications and paperwork buy a one way ticket each way and get a fully refundable one for the return. Once the skipper of the boat signs you on as crew, which they have to do for you to leave. You become their legal responsibility. Then just refund your ticket.

It's all one and the same. If the protestor claims YNZ have made a mistake the protest committee still hears it and will consult a YNZ technical representative. This is the same process as if it was IRC or ORC, or even class rules - the authority responsible for the rules decides.

I would not call it a failure. Personally I am pleased that SSANZ is embracing PHRF. Is it really PHRF that scared them off? Our PHRF has always been adjusted twice a year. Once in April(ish) when we renew and once in September(ish). 16 points is a signiifcant change. I would expect a significant change to flow through mid series as this indicates that the original rating was substantially wrong.

Looking at the documentation and at the product name. I suspect that the charge controller is providing a constant current charge phase only and is designed to stop supplying current when the voltage is reached. Eg the charge controller does not have a absorption or float phase. I suggest you run your battery down to 12v and then try the test again. If my suspicion is right the unit will ramp up over a longer period of time to 14.4v and then stop charging at which point the boost phase will be complete but the battery will not be fully charged.

In addition to the above, for context, would you please be able to share: what chemistry and capacity you are charging when the charger reaches 14.4v? how long does it take to reach 14.4v?