CarpeDiem

No. If that was the case we would of seen great strides in hydrogen technology to harness the energy. Diesel has around 45 MJ/kg and Hydrogen around 120 MJ/kg. In electrical terms, the energy density of hydrogen is around 34 kWh of usable energy per kg, versus diesel which is around 13 kWh per kg. Of course Hydrogen Fusion is 170Billion kWh/kg. But I don't think you're expecting a hydrogen nuclear fusion reactors on yachts anytime soon... When I was looking at range extender options, I considered both hydrogen fuel cells and methanol fuel cells, the technology is quite sound

So given the Torqeedo's relatively short warranty period, and the no commercial use restriction, I am guessing we're a way off seeing motors that will last decades of daily use? It doesn't give me any faith in the technology when the manufacturer sets the warranty period at 12 months. Do you think we're likely to see 10 year motor warranties (subject to any servicing requirements) in the near future? (I realise batteries will always have short warranty periods). But if the motors are designed to last decades of daily use then the warranty needs to reflect that.

I would rather not be plugging my shore power into a plug that was recently showered in water and possibly submerged. I will investigate the cover, I didn't see that, thanks. Is IP44 sufficient for ewof? We had an ebox once. The 10a outlet had a small amount water in it. Powered up fine, plugged in the battery charger and it smoked, smelled and went black. Neither the shore rcd or the ebox rcd tripped, it wasn't a happy box. So my approach is to keep the water out of the 230v electrical system whether it's on or not.

We're talking about a dinghy right? I am not aware of any dinghy electric outboard share services? Although that would be cool... Fwiw we get out every week of the year, after two years the Engine has a massive 125hrs on it and almost 40 hrs of that is from deliveries with no wind 6hrs is from essential charging of batteries during multiday races. I am not aware of any countries that have completely banned 2 stroke use? Interested to hear which have? I know that Sweden tried to do it a year ago, but there was an uproar at the cost to replace 1million perfectly functional ou

What do people use for their boats external shore power inlet? I am struggling to find a 16amp panel mount inlet that is water proof when connected and not connected to shore power. Found this, it is the only IP56 I have found. Quite pricy. This is obviously IP nothing if it's unplugged. I understand that Ewof requires an external inlet. Our boat is very wet when racing, there isn’t a dry spot in the cockpit. If I could have the inlet inside then that would be best but I don't think that's allowed.

There's no legal requirement to carry flares in NZ as a recreational boater. YNZ require you to carry flares for racing because World Sailing requires adherence to SOLAS and COLREGS requires flares. Ultimately your sailing club can contract out of any YNZ regulation if they undertake the necessary assessment and determine what replaces it. Cat 3 still requires an inflated dinghy or a liferaft. Coastal Classic is a Cat 3- race. The minus is important. The night race to Kawau used to be a Cat4+ race (adding a inflated dinghy or liferaft). You could ask your club to remove the

Which one? I suspect this is a marketing mistake. EVDS are not recognised by the treaty so can't be a SOLAS certified replacement for flares.

Tommorrow hopefully. Been a Northerly all week and we're in cruise mode. We'll leave TGA tomorrow morning and see if we get there.

A second battery retails for around $1600. The 1103c batteries are ~35ah Lithium Manganese, so at $1600 it's expensive for what it is. So the motor is expensive no matter how you look at it. And adding that too a non electric ready cruising boat you have the added expense of charging, presumably overnight so your dinghy is ready for use the following day. My Yamaha 3hp 2-stroke cost $1150 in 2016. Since then it's had exactly zero $ spent on servicing and maybe $200 on fuel, oil and carbon credits if that. I can't find any numbers on the break even usage when compared to pet

This comes under the section preamble making it a suggestion. Skippers should consult their sailmaker and designer to arrive at the best sizes. The sizes given below are maximum suggested sizes only and should be followed only after due consultation. So get your sail maker/designer to document what your correct/optimal storm reefing point is before you change to the trysail. Re pyrotechnic flares, the requirement stems from COLREGS. You wouldn't be the first (or last) to suggest that the UN updates COLREGS to allow EVDS devices.

Engine driven fridges use an eutectic storage plate. The compressors are always an order of magnitude more powerful than the biggest 12v system. Thus they freeze holdover plates in under 20minutes when power is in abundance. Run the engine once in the morning, freezer/fridge are done for the day and if you're not careful you've frozen your beer. With electric you'd get rid of the engine driven compressor and switch to an electric compressor (another thing you need to factor in). If you stick with a holding plate, this requires you to get into the habit of leaving the fridge

She has had a Volvo 30hp engine since new. First one was a 30hp Volvo 2003. We replaced it with the 29hp D1-30. The propellor is also Volvo and we took that off the old saildrive system but Volvo signed off on it being the correct size for the boat/engine. Wow, only 10hp? That surprises me. Thanks - food for thought.

We were told to over spec the generator so it was never running at full output? It was described as a range extender and battery charger. I could see it only being used a few times a year. However, if we had gone down that path we'd also have removed the Lpg and gone full electric cooking and water heating so it would of been a bit more than just a range extender on long cruises. 20kw genny was matched to a 15kw motor. Lwl is 10m. Weight is 5200kg. We cruise at 6.2knots which is 2200rpm. If we take the engine to ~2800rpm we hit Hull speed at ~7.1knots. At that point we have 30

Thanks wheels, that's the missing information I needed. I will take the stabiliser back and swap it for a biocide.

Lots of good information thanks. Re the pricing, my D1-30 Volvo was $20k. It was a drop in replacement including saildrive. The electric set up was going to be $30k for parts and we had unknown labour and building costs to modify cabinets and make custom mounts etc, electrician costs were extra. It was recommended we go to a shaft drive which required Hull modifications. I didn't see it happening for less than $40k when all was said and done. So it was $20k more. In diesel/maintenance costs that is probably around 10yrs projected. If done at todays prices it's 20 years but I accept t