CarpeDiem
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Posts posted by CarpeDiem
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Isn't that for the Type B? My Type C takes the 505-510.
I recently got a new one from Toad Marine to try and see if it helped with my luff tape ripping out during windy hoists. It didn't.
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I have one of these I removed last year when I went to a new type N alternator and changed to a DC/DC charging system.
Worked fine at time of removal. Good as a spare.
Pick up from Hillcrest or Westhaven.
$FREE
Will consider postage hassle for a small fee.
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The decision/investigation stemmed from three independent conversations.
Yesterday my antifoul painter said that a lot of times he is finding the boot is replaced with foam.
Independently, last week my engine installer, when I told him I was replacing the boot, said he'd just done an new SD installation and the owner had a builder cut foam inserts claiming it was superior to the boot and he's been doing that for years.
And when I told someone else about the boot in the a conversation about inspecting the rudder bearings, he said 'well hell, if you've got a builder coming down, get him to replace the saildrive boot with foam.
There is a limited number of posts on the Internet about doing this. It seems that alot of people have issues with the boot falling off personally I have never had that. But I do find that the boot becomes very chunky and lumpy and is not a smooth surface anymore.
This is the most detailed I have found, this post was from 2014 and the op had the foam in since 2006.
https://www.myhanse.com/sail-drive-diaphragm_topic8671_page2.html
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I have heard of some people who replace the outside sail drive gasket with a foam insert and then glass over it leaving a gap which is filled with a sikaflex.
Has anyone had experience with this? Type of foam? Size of gap?
I had to remove my gasket and I am contemplating a new volvo gasket or the foam/glass option...
Thanks
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Dropped the rudder out today and found that it's supported by a bronze ring that screws onto the top of the rudder stock. As the rudder stock turns this ring turns with it.
This then sits on top of a another chunk of bronze which is attached to the cockpit floor.
So as the rudder is turned, the bronze ring slides on the bronze base.
There is no way to lubricate this unless the rudder is removed. I always understood that metal on metal is bad - is bronze on bronze OK? Should there be a thin washer which has just eroded?
It's not broken and I have never had any problems with the rudder, it's always been really smooth/easy to turn, so I feel like this is a case of if it's not broken don't fix it... planning on spraying it with some PTFE and a dab of grease and just putting it back together...
Thoughts?
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10 hours ago, BMW56 said:
I also have had suggestions to check with Mariner and Club Marine. Does anyone have experience with them? Good, bad or otherwise. Any other suggestions of recent experience?
We've had great experience with Mariner. We had a racing accident with some hull damage less than a year ago and the claim was approved within 24hrs.
We're in a Marina, but the policy is titled "Moored or Berthed Boat Policy" ... so hopefully they cover moorings.
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51 minutes ago, BOIGuy said:
Quick question for those doing the Baltic 50 coming up.
The course sheet shows the last leg going back round Motutapu and Rangitoto to starboard, the SI only says Rakino to port then Finish
I don't race Auckland but do take an interest in this series as a possible future mission.
To me it looks shorter to go the north side of Rangitoto to get back to Auckland.
What am I missing?
p.s. well done those that managed to stick it out this weekend, had to be better than sitting at home waiting for the weather to clear.
Yes, you're right. It's about 1nm shorter on the outside, iirc.
In previous years they have the finish line at Isinglington Bay where a raft up and celebration occurs. I recall at the briefing that the committee were to decide if that would happen closer to the date. So there might be an ammendment yet.
The map could possibly be preemting that... or an edit from last year's map just extending the existing line to Resolution.. or an oversight.
Well spotted.
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Is it not your SonarLog? I have never seen someone elses track like that... The one time I used it (on another boat) it drew the track like that on my phone. I cannot get it to work with my boat, not sure why, AIS works, I thought it just used the depth sounder.
There is a good explanation in the help of how the upload works.
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On 31/07/2020 at 2:30 PM, Island Time said:
Nope, main menu button, selct navigation, then skip....
Thank you!
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Does anyone know how to skip or advance a waypoint on the active Zeus 2 route?
Sometimes I want to start navigating an existing route in the middle, eg if I have a route from Flat Rock to Westhaven, but I am already south of Flat Rock. I cannot find how to advance the route to Tiri Channel. The Zeus wants me to head back to Flat Rock.
Thanks
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4 minutes ago, Deep Purple said:
usually something like these ...
Oh that's awesome, thank you very much! Had heard of the "SnubbAir", (hard to miss the marketing), but never knew it was a remake of something called a "Snubber Winch".
Knowing what to search for has opened up a world of possibilities ...
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I am looking for something that I can bolt to the cabin top to use as a friction device when the winch isn't available. Obviously nearly anything will work, but ideally I want something aesthetically pleasing, no sharp edges and that's suitable for a marine environment. A little stub that looks like a small winch from a distance, but isn't.
If the winch is already loaded and I want to adjust something, I would like to be able to take a wrap or two, open a clutch and ease the line. Things like dropping the zero, easing the outhaul, easing a tack line etc
Anyone got any ideas thoughts, pictures?
Thanks
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Unwanted race prize. I have an existing pack and I generally dislike mixing pyrotechnics with boats so have no need for extras.
2x orange exp 12/22
2x red exp 3/23
Meets cat 3,4,5 requirements.
Must pick up from Westhaven or Northcote.
FREE
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I need to build a Gas Locker for Carpe Diem.
I had planned to build a sealed locker with a drain to outside and locate this inside another locker which ultimately drains to the bilge. The alternative is hang the gas bottle off a transom step or cut a hole in the side of the cockpit - neither ideas I like.
It occurs to me that if there is a gas leak in the locker and the alarm starts going off, one will need to open the sealed locker to investigate, this could potentially result in gas flowing into the bilges.
I am wondering if anyone knows if having a draining locker inside a non draining locker meets the regs?
Thanks
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My Vang has started leaking lubricant. Upon further inspection it looks like the strut is intact and it's the lubricant on the slider that's turned to a thick gunk dust.
I am guessing that this is just old grease that has reached its use by date and had enough of the sun.
Can I just use winch grease on this? Or do I need something special?
Thanks
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Hi all,
Anyone got any ideas on some good off the shelf sturdy sock mouths?
I am thinking something like an oval bucket, or a giant road cone that can be cut down. Have had a look around the likes of Mitre10 and Plastic Box but have not seen anything suitable.
Effectively I am looking for some mass produced common product that can be modified, rather than buying a purpose built molded/fabricated sock mouth.
Thanks
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The Earthing plate is an interesting one. It's good to see that a little common sense has occurred in the Industry, but "on paper" there is no clause in the rules that state this is for Commercial only. The idea is that the water surrounding the Boat is at the same Earth potential as the metal components of the Boat.
This is the bit I don't get, if the AC shore earth is only connected to the engine (along with the DC earth) then is the small amount of water that might be left in the impeller pump sufficient to earth the boat to the water?
My impeller pump just happens to be below the water line, I guess others might not be, thus no connection to the water at all? I suppose if there is enough vacuum that the heat exchanger might stay connected giving more surface area, but my maintenance has shown that the rubber pipe from the heat exchanger to the impellor is empty at the water line.
If this connectivity is tested or not by an eWOF inspector is kind of irrelevant, it's obviously required.
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There is probably nothing wrong with the rest of the pole. Any engineering shop will be able to clean this up and reattach the pole end if they want the business, and you don't mind a shorter pole.
This happened to me too, the pole end insulation wasn't done right and salt water + metals of different types = galvanic corrosion. (Although we didn't get to the actual point of breaking - I hope it was the clew end?)
I got a new carbon fiber pole made up, these guys did the whole thing end to end including painting: http://www.c-tech.co.nz/shop/Our+Products/C-T+Carbon+tube.html
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No, you only need a ground plate on a commercial vessel, most installs get away with a grounded engine....
Sorry for asking again but I am confused by the definition of grounded. Does grounded mean connected to the water, or is it considered grounded if it is connected to the dc negative?
My engine is only going to be grounded to the water via the small amount of water left in impeller housing. Would that be considered "grounded"?
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The AC ground connects a a single point to the boats DC-, likely the same as the DC ground (engine block etc).
Doesn't this also need to be connected to the water via some plate of a specific size? Hence another hole in the boat?
Would an inspector actually check that's it's connected to the water with a test?
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So reading that link and this section:
Earthing point / electrode
Again a "boats earth" [ 3.1.3 & 10.1.2 }; being either the boat's hull (if metal) or a metallic part of specified dimensions in contact with water is a requirement that has only existed since 1/4/2010.
ESR 113 says we don't need to upgrade.
App C doesn't specifically require an earth i.a.w 10.1.2; it only requires [ C11.2; subheading earth continuity tests; item 2] that if there's a conductor to such an earth, the max resistance of that conductor is 0.5 ohms. If there's no such conductor, due to having no "boat's earth" then the test is simply not applicable.Does that mean that if it's a new eWOF on an old boat (pre 1/4/2010) that it doesn't need an earth? Or does it mean that the boat had to have a eWOF prior to 1/4/2010 without an earth?
I have heard the specs say that the shore power negative has to be connected to the boat DC negative, but given this isn't earthed to the water it seems to not meet this requirement...
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I need to go down this journey too.
Any advice on the storage plate options? E.g., the IsoTherm ASU units? Instead of the evaporator plates?
I currently have one house battery and no solar, I have been told to get into the electric fridge space I need to add a second battery and solar. So I have been putting the inevitable off.
Removing the brine and filling it with expanding foam is a good idea, I always thought it was advantageous to keep the brine as a cold storage plate, now I see the light. Also if I remove the brine then I can drill through the fridge to get access for a a plate, so that's a win win.
One of the fridge kitset suppliers talked me out of the ASU and advised to keep the brine. Now I am going full circle.
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Can you plug it into shore power to get the brine chilled in advance? Or leave it on with solar?
Our engine driven one died a while ago and I put a new d1-30 in which had no way of attaching the compressor. So I am looking at doing the same as you.
What we do on the long weekends is throw 1kg of dry ice in the bottom. The fridge is still cold 3 days later. And we only put already chilled stuff in the fridge. That wouldn't happen if we replaced the brine with foam.
So my understanding is if you could get the brine precooled you'd have better results. This might be flawed for long trips (like rni duration).
Cabin Top Friction Device
in TechTalk
Posted
Originally not considered because of cost, I just expected a winch (with all it's moving parts) to be more expensive than a static friction device. In hindsight that wasn't the case...
I really like this device, but it's ridiculously expensive for what it is: https://hardware.schaefermarine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3900
While this is a more reasonable price and would achieve the same thing and even be a mini winch: https://www.marine-deals.co.nz/manual-winch/andersen-ra500010-classic-winch-size-10-single-speed
I was tempted to get something made, but that fell in the too hard basket.
I am going to go with some cheap horn cleats, I found some smooth fibre ones. Will install four, one on each side of the cabin top winch because it will be inevitable that the rope will be on the wrong side when you need it in a hurry.
Thanks