CarpeDiem
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Posts posted by CarpeDiem
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The boat has not budged in more than four days now, but a spokesman for Auckland's harbourmaster said as the vessel was not moving and was not leaking oil, it was not causing any issues.
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2 hours ago, erice said:
But hadn't realised they had moved beyond vaporware
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48 minutes ago, harrytom said:
So what is the difference of a cruiser being at sea for 14 days and the arrival of HMNZS TE KAHA from Canada?? being at sea 15 days counts as isolation.Hmm bit one eyed.
If a cruiser or a merchant ship spends 14days at sea Covid symptom free and has the appropriate evidence to support that claim then no further isolation is required.
But a warship is just so different on so many levels...
They have been in state of lockdown since June. They exceeded the 14 day requirement which is set for merchant ships and small craft. They can actually prove it and will be believed. A sovereign ship is legally sovereign territory - these folks have legally been in New Zealand since they boarded, the Covid orders wouldn't even apply to them.
And many many more...
A NZ warship, with a hospital on board, is a far cry from a cruiser, let alone a merchant ship.
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49 minutes ago, dutyfree said:
But if the issue is on the intake side how does an exhaust riser fix it?
A picture is in order.... So long as the exhaust riser is above the exhaust system at all heel/pitch angles the raw water cannot get back into the exhaust outlet.
Some boats have a valve on the exhaust. Closing that could cause the water to come back up the exhaust riser.
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4 minutes ago, Bad Kitty said:
I don't think an exhaust riser will stop it. Why will an exhaust riser stop water pressure filling the exhaust manifold & flowing into the engine?
It's coming in the raw water side, not the exhaust side.
Gravity stops the water going up the riser. The water is pushed out the exhaust pipe. Because the exhaust riser is above the exhaust and inlet system.
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8 minutes ago, Bad Kitty said:
Anti siphon loop won't stop it. We have electric shut offs between the saildrive & the raw water pump that close & stop raw water flow when the key is off.
An exhaust riser also solves it.
Are your shutoffs wired to be closed when power is present? I would be worried about these closing unintentionally due to a power failure.
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1 hour ago, NorthlandYS said:
Less than 12 days you spend BALANCE of 14 in hotel not a full 14. No other “yacht” has spent 14 days but on us. Of course the officials “don’t have that information in front of them” hard to see with their heads that far stuffed up their bums no doubt.
A quite large disclaimer exists on that customs web page, The information is a general guide only. The legislation is what matters.
The COVID-19 Public Health Response (Isolation and Quarantine) Order 2020 section 10.1 - states that you must spend 14 days after your start time. So the question now becomes when was your start time?
Because you arrived by sea, your start time in quarantine is defined in Section 23 of the COVID-19 Public Health Response (Maritime Border) Order (No 2)
Section 19(3) is the one that defines the start time in your case.
TLDR; if a health protection officer is not satisfied with the evidence that you have provided to offset your time required in a quarantine facility then your start time is zero.
I suspect it's likely that because you had to deviate for weather and repairs and because you didn't have AIS, that they're not prepared to take your word for it.
There is another possibility and that is if you came into contact with any other people also on the way to MIQ. This would also reset your start time to zero. This is common when busses are used to transport people.
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https://www.youtube.com/c/americascup
TVNZ coverage starts at 3pm on Channel 1. With a lead in at 2pm.
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1 hour ago, Frank said:
I heard recently of an issue with SD units on Leopard Catamarans, I thought some might find it interesting. The story goes that in certain conditions water pressure impinging on the Sail Drive raw water intake can cause flow through the system and into the exhaust without the engine running. There is a blog on this in the cruising forums somewhere and one person even disassembled the plumbing and witnessed it while sailing. Apparently If the raw water plumbing does not have an anti siphon loop the exhaust can fill with water and flood the engine, if the boat is sufficiently heeled, has anyone else heard of this or experienced it ?
For our Volvopenta D1-30 it was in documented in multiple places through the installation manual.
We ended up making a custom stainless exhaust riser to reduce the siphoning risk because we couldn't get the anti-siphon loop high enough due to the cockpit floor. Most photos/videos I have seen of that Engine have an anti-siphon loop in the intake.
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Whangarei or Marsden Cove?
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2 hours ago, NorthlandYS said:
We have visas, we have the yacht exemption, we followed the rules. The rules were changed on us after arrival. You guys honestly don’t have any issue with that? Our situation has nothing to too with “entitled yachties” or “those Germans"
The rule is that if you arrive on a recreational small craft, within 12 days of your last port of call, (which for you was Minerva Reef), then you're required to be transferred to a MIQ facility for the minimum period of 14 days.
These are the current rules for recreational vessels as I've understood them. So I am not seeing any government overreach in what you've explained.
Don't be confused with the rules for commercial ships, which don't have a 12 day rule and must have an approved Covid management plan that includes a ships Doctor.
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On 31/07/2020 at 8:17 PM, Dave said:
So, I went with the MacGlide from MPS. I was keen to explore options other than conventional antifouling and following a bit of research I decided that I'd give this system a go. Due to a combination of factors the boat has been sitting on a mooring up the Weiti River for six months now and has got a fairly 'healthy' layer of slime on it. I have not dived on the boat for a couple of reasons: a) I'm a wuss, and b) I wanted to give the product a decent test of it's claimed performance as a self cleaning film. Fingers crossed I'll be sailing the boat in two to three weeks time, at which point I'm hoping the investment I've made will see me return to the mooring with a squeaky clean bum.
I'll let you all know how it goes.
Dave
How did this work out?
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We unfortunately need to get a new pole after loosing our old one in yesterday's Gold Cup race.
Why do people put their spinnaker poles in bags when not in use?
Is this for sun protection in lieu of painting a carbon fibre pole?
The pole we lost was made by C-Tech and came painted gloss white. The painting made up 1/3rd of the purchase price, so I was considering getting this one unpainted to save some coin. Or am I missing the fact that a new pole would require some kind of finish anyway?
Thanks
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1 hour ago, waikiore said:
Still dont understand the cost versus what you really get with lithium types versus AGM, particularly when I have had a great run with AGM and comparatively safe also not requiring a specialised charging regime.
The only true benefit is a weight/space saving.
Every battery has a special/optimal charging regime so this is kind of moot. It's just that your very used to your current charging regime and don't even see it as a regime any more.
Lots of factors to consider. In a nutshell, if you have enough power and charging to meet your needs then why change? If you want to add more power reserves then lithium might be a cost effective way to do this over the long term.
There are lots of benefits, but if they are worth it to you is always going to be a personal choice.
For us it's a no brainer, we need to install an electric fridge, there is no room for another AGM battery and I hate putting hours on the engine to just charge the battery. Your mileage will vary based on your needs.
In summary, if someone wants more power and they want to be able charge faster, then lithium should be seriously considered, especially so if the existing AGM Bank is due to be replaced.
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50 minutes ago, Adrianp said:
These are the LiFePO4 cells that we have just got for Lady Nada - 8 x Winston 300ah cells to give 600ah @12V.
If they are new, then they will be LiFeYPO4 - lithium iron yttrium phosphate - a very safe battery from a reputable manufacturer.
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11 hours ago, erice said:
so the lithium iron phosphate batteries you speak of are not the lithium ion batteries that thermally ran away and caused these problems 4 years ago?
No, different chemistry. The hoverboards and the Samsung batteries, (and the batteries in the fatal battery glider story, mentioned above), were Lithium Polymer batteries or more correctly lithium-ion polymer (abbreviated as LIP, LiPo, Li-poly, lithium-poly and otherways) - the hoverboard chemistry was specifically LiCoO2 - Samsung was probably the same chemistry as are most small electronics.
Lithium Polymer is, (generally), no good on boat cause the nominal voltage is too high (3.6v - 3.9v depending on chemistry) and all of our electronics is designed to run at 12/24/48v and LiPo doesn't fit very well into that range.
Lithium iron phosphate batteries, abbreviated LFP, (generally), have the chemistry LiFePO4 and these are what you will find on boats and household solar installations, the nominal voltage is 3.3v which fits better with a 12v system and all the parts/things available that come for 12volts.
A new, (relatively speaking), player in town is the Lithium iron yttrium phosphate battery LiFeYPO4 - this is (according to the people that make them) superior to LiFePO4 but still has all the safety benefits.
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2 hours ago, Tamure said:
Wow! I clean my own boat. If one was to turn up in the BOI with a spotless racing bottom would it be a case of where are your papers old man? Not everyone wants to get their boat professionally cleaned or painted and I dont keep receipts and I know people who slap a coat of AF on between tides on the grid.
Yes, it would be a case of that. At the end of the day if you want to use a Marina you have to play by the Marinas rules. And that might mean producing some documentation. They also require proof of insurance and an eWof (if you want to plug in). They probably have other rules about the showers and the toilets too...
But as I said, it doesn't have to be done professionally, if you want to do it yourself just follow the rules and be prepared to be held accountable if you don't follow the rules.
As evidence, the person cleaning the boat needs to write a declaration that the boat has been cleaned in accordance with the rules, your diy anti-fouler can declare that it was antifouled within the last 12 months and was done per manufacturer specs (attach a receipt for the paint as added evidence) and add that you, as owner, have read, understood and are abiding by the rules as laid out in the marine management plan. Of course, you have to have read the rules and understand what it is that you are committing too... a bit like when you got that drivers license...
If you're slapping on a coat of antifoul between tides, then are you following the manufacturer requirements, including any prep? (I have no idea how long it needs to dry, or how many coats are required, or time between coats - but if this meets the spec then you'd be meeting the rules...).
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Timely. I just went through this yesterday for Opua marina for BOI race week. In summer we have a private clean of the hull with scuba every 2-3 weeks - so no receipt - in winter we use the floating dock. Our Antifoul will be 6.5 months old when we get to Opua...
The Marinas follow a self-imposed 6/1 rule - anitfoul must be less than 6 months old (with invoice) or you must have documented proof of a clean within 1 month. (This can simply be a receipt from a haulout facility, a commercial diver).
The law is a bit different - the Management plan says - you must be antifouled within 12months, applied per manufacturer spec and you cannot have any biofouling other than slime on your boat. (See section 10.1. - https://www.nrc.govt.nz/media/uhudlio4/northlandregionalpestandmarinepathwaymanagementplan20172027.pdf )
If you clean the boat privately, follow a cleaning standard and believe that it is up to standard, then you can call NRC and ask for an exemption and they will contact the marina on your behalf.
NRC advised me that the person we use for in-water cleaning can sign a letter to state that the hull has been fully cleaned on date x at location y and that the boat complies with the requirements of the NRC marine pathway management plan. (to comply with the plan you must also have been antifouled within 12 months and be able to provide proof of this if inspected).
Also, while we're on the topic of cleaning, be aware that if you are in-water cleaning then you have to be cleaning your boat in an area that permits it and you have to be following specific rules which might include capturing some organisms.
In lots of parts of Auckland, such as the Islands, Long Bay, and the Wade river, cleaning is prohibitted: https://www.aucklandcouncil.govt.nz/environment/plants-animals/pests-weeds/Documents/biofouling-and-invasive-marine-pest-species.pdf
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5 hours ago, Ptown said:
PS it's a racer that is cruised.
Perhaps portable 12volt unit. Engle do a great unit with lockdown feet that can be secured in place easily and quickly. They also do insulated bags to save battery on those longer races.
Our engine driven fridge has also died - the cost to replace it is astronomical cause of the woodwork - but if I ever did replace it properly - I would be with an Ozefridge and custom cabinet. So I am also seriously considering the less expensive Chainsaw/Portable approach.
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2 hours ago, 2flit said:
I am also seeing this attachment for the code sail at the end of the prod being used. The second picture is a close-up of the furler used at the end of the prod. It's interesting that he is not having an issue with the drum assembly trying to twist so far that it wraps the continuous furl line around it, I wonder why this works for some but not others. (He has three furlers, the other two are on a 2:1 and a 3:1 tack downhaul/retrieval line so they would never see twisting with these furlers)
Wow, nice boat - where is this?
This will work, up above I said:
Boats that don't have a means of stopping [the furler spinning], it's a question of when, not if, ...
I was not trying to imply that a 2:1 was the only way of stopping the spinning..
What they are relying on here is one of two things, and it's difficult to tell from your photo angles which, but I am guessing that the 2:1 shackle is at 90deg to the furling line?
If so then the eye splice pulls the soft shackle through the low friction ring, the soft shackle then contacts the low friction ring at two points, the added width of the 2:1 shackle creates a triangle and the triangle cannot spin because each side of the triangle opposes the turning force against the ring.
If the 2:1 is in line with the furling line, then they are relying on the fact that the eye splice has two opposing ropes and so the same factors as above occur. I think this is unlikely - infact I would say that if they had it set up inline, that it would of been assembled wrong and was not optimal - especially if it is possible to pull the soft shackle into the ring as the furler could end up being at 90deg to the boat center.
Risks and mitigations that come to mind:
If the crew forget to really crank this on, eg just pull it down by hand, then when the load goes on the top halyard it will pull that eye splice out of the ring and there will be just one rope - spining could happen - especially if the torque wasn't taken out of the torsion line (this boat probably has a crew that "rarely" makes mistakes and torsion lines are always unloaded before dropping)
if the tack line stretches enough then the triangle could leave the ring - spinning could happen (this boat probably has SK99 lines everywhere so stretch isn't an issue).
If the tack is eased before the halyard - spinning could happen - (this boat probably has a crew that "rarely" makes mistakes and they get the drop order right every time).
If the furling line is not taught when pulling out the furler it can end up backwards, depending on which way round the soft shackle goes - annoying but won't result in spinning - although this creates an equally bad cluster mess - especially when you discover that you just unfurled your code zero and now the furling line is pointing the wrong way and you have no way of furling it.
This method is a good way to stop the spinning, it's just in my opinion this has more margin for error than a 2:1 off the prod.
There is one other way I have seen and that is a grooved attachment on the prod, the furler is pulled down into that attachment which physically stops the furler spinning. I have only seen this on one boat at the CYCA and it was a custom built prod with a fancy fitting.
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On 23/11/2020 at 9:35 AM, Winter said:
Curious to hear your comments on the noticed real world differences between the Precision 9 and the RC42N
Answered in tech discussion
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I was asked over in the For Sale section:
Curious to hear your comments on the noticed real world differences between the Precision 9 and the RC42N
2 races now.
For Wednesday night racing, flat, round the boys, Auckland Harbour. There was zero difference in the performance of the compass.
For the Akarana 350 when taking the rum line from Channel Is to the poor night's we had 2+m seas on the beam while going past the various Great Barrier headlands. These were breaking and sets of 3 big ones were coming in every 10 mins.
In this instance the difference was chalk and chesse. The RC42N would of been all over the place. Even our COG was moving around erratically due to all the pitching, yawing and rolling.
Can't attest to autopilot improvements cause our auto pilot is not capable in those seas anyway and generally only use it in flattish seas.
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Also, as I missed your original question... A suggestion..
Lash a low friction ring to that stainless fitting at the end of the prod.
Then option a
Put an eye splice in your line and cow hitch this to the prod.
After you have set it all up, cranked this on and let the cow hitch settle, stitch it so it cannot open up.
Warning, this creates a risk that your prod could get crushed, over to you to work out if that is likely based on loads.
Opton b if worried about pole crush.
Put a small eye splice in the end. Lash a line around the prod through the eye splice.
Secure option a or b in place by tying from the stainless fitting to the loop. Finish it with galvanising tape.
Hopefully the picture helps.
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Can you cut the plug off and install a new nmea plug at the bus end?
Failing that, then we use a "solder splice", (Google it, it's a thing), and for backup we cover that with glue heat shrink. Time consuming and you need to strip back more wire to get the glue heat shrink away from the heat that's generated when solder splicing.
I thought the CAN-BUS cabling was twisted pair? You might get signal degradation if that's the case...
Single line davits?
in TechTalk
Posted
Have them both come through a single block. Which would mean having one run from port to starboard (or vice versa) then tie them together so the bow and stern are the same height. And attach that tie point to your winch.
Probably needs a picture...
You'll need to redirect the line to the winch so it doesn't get an overrun.... But that's the general gist...