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Island Time

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Posts posted by Island Time

  1. 2 minutes ago, Jon said:

    This is an Auckland issue, every other ports I’ve sailed or run races out of, if you get 5 blasts you also get a fine from the harbour master 

    No issue with that Jon, again, enforcement (lack of) is the problem...

    If a few decent fines were issued, it would get round, and perhaps some would book training courses?

  2. 37 minutes ago, CarpeDiem said:

    Yes, seems unfortunate to me how close some people think getting to a ship - which is the stand on vessel inside harbour limits - is OK. If, as in this case, you hear 5 short blasts - that is the WTF are you doing signal. If you hear it directed at you, you have f%^$ed up! Keep out of the shipping channels when you can, and cross as fast as you can, at 90deg if possible.

    Within a mile of the bow is too close!

    • Upvote 1
  3. Do you guys know that there are already rules for boat ID? Often local body rules, Auckland ones say a boat must have a name on it, clearly readable, min 90mm high lettering. Jet skis have to have a number. 
    Again, the rules are there, just need enforcing.

    • Upvote 1
  4. 11 hours ago, Black Panther said:

    That's what CG do now.

    Yep. That and the enforcement/policing of existing rules would work fine. No need for yet more regulation. The harbour masters and maritime nz can already fine people.

    • Upvote 1
  5. Other anchoring ideas. 
    when wind not same direction as waves, use the chain hook to attach a bridle to chain, pay out a bit more, take bridle to sheet winch, then adjust angle as required, with bridle length.

    stern anchor to keep boat alignment as required.

    spare chain/warp for deep anchorage 

    catenary weight for towing line (chain works better though)

    1. As a kedge. Sometimes might be needed in a hurry - like to get off the hard stuff on a falling tide!
    2. stream anchoring in tight space - one anchor each way into flow direction, can keep boat basically where it is when flow direction changes.
    3. storm anchor - either series or parallel 
    4. If you’ve had to buoy main anchor
       
  6. 2 hours ago, alibaba said:

    I can't help with the BEP regulator sadly, but now that the question of regulators has come up... hope nobody minds me adding to thread- I have a Yanmar 3gm and its alternator goes through a Transpo IB301a regulator. It has a tricky little potentiometer screw to adjust the voltage. Tricky because the slightest alteration seems to alter the voltage quite a lot!

    At the moment it is set to 14.5V. I  have a starting battery with a 80 amp hour house battery, with a VSR.

    Question, -1.  is 14.5 the appropriate voltage, or do I need to increase it?

    2. Can I charge a lead acid battery and an AGM battery off the same alternator, or would I be better to match to type of batteries - ie both lead acid.

    Thanks

    Question one. Read the PDS for the specific make and model of the batts, it will have min and max charge voltages in it, for both Bulk/Absorbtion and Float.

    Question 2. Depends. Read the PDS for both batteries and see if the required voltages given there match each other.

    Unasked question - Dont rely one what anyone online says, or even your local marine sparky. Read the manufacturer's PDS.

  7. Nope. A gennaker can be poled out either side, to Leeward or Windward, so it would depend. If the wind is over the starboard side at all, you're on Stb. If the wind is over the port side at all your on port. The main makes it easier to tell when almost flat off, and running by the lee with a main on means the main is the indicator. 

    Think about this. If the main was up, where would it be? That being said, both the burdened vessel and the stand on one are obliged to avoid a collision, and course alterations should be clear (decent amount of course change) and early - under colregs. RRS are a bit different.

    Clear as mud... right 😂

    • Haha 1
    • Upvote 1
  8. Licensing has not worked in any country I have been to (except as a revenue gathering exercise) , similar issues to NZ seen every day. We already have sufficient laws, they are just not policed.... Mostly.

     

    • Upvote 1
  9. If you have a float on trailer, bearing buddies are a good idea, or you'll be changing bearings pretty often. Unless it's really only used for launching, not road transport. Brakes can be an issue as well..

  10. It's a float on trailer. Steep ramps are good. Thee last little bit can be winched, loads are big if your dragging it! Some vesconite slides on the base would help a lot. 

    • Like 1
  11. 5 hours ago, CarpeDiem said:

    I don't think that this is a 'GOOD' example of a basic system.  I think that these kinds of pictures set DIYers up for an immediate fail, there's just so much more to be considered here.  Sure it is an "example" but it isn't good (imo) and that should be called out.

    Consideration needs to be given to:

    • fusing between battery packs in case of a battery short and understand if you do or do not need to fuse
    • issues of connecting drop-ins in parallel - 4 BMS's that do not talk to each other is a recipe for massive current flows
    • not fusing the start battery - I know 99% of NZ installations are unfused, but that doesn't make it right
    • not having a shunt to measure current to manage the Li charging profile to know when to stop
    • not having a way to top off the starter battery

    While this diagram is basic, I personally think it's a bit generous to call it "good".

     

    Fair point. When I posted this I was thinking about an example of Alternator load dump management, not an instruction diagram of how to install a complete system. It is NOT saying any particular LiFePo4 units can do a bank of 4, does not say how to config BMS's, or fuses. But it DOES show a basic way of using your alternator (externally regulated with correct voltages, and hopefully temp sensing) with LiFePo4 batts. Which many web sites say you cant.

  12. I suggest anyone who has an inflatable jacket manually blows it up and jump in with it on. Try it. Make certain it works for you. Then try again with foul weather gear on, and whatever you normally carry. This will give you confidence if it works fine, and let you know if you need to upgrade.

    My offshore jacket has crotch strap, hood, knife, plb, and a small but decent led torch attached. It is deliberately a manual unit, as I have had to use it several times as a harness, getting overboard to cut crap off the prop etc. seems that’s always the middle of the night….

    • Upvote 2
  13. Nonsense. 

    Type 401 - inflatable

    Achieves buoyancy by either a:

    • water-activated switch
    • manual pull cord

    May include a mouthpiece

    Designed to keep the wearer vertical during unconsciousness

    Comfortable and convenient to wear at all times

    Must provide 150 newtons of buoyancy

    Guidelines for inflatable lifejackets

    Download nationally agreed guidelines to help choose the right inflatable lifejacket, and know how and when to service it.

    • Upvote 2
  14. 11 minutes ago, harrytom said:

    The idea of a lifejacket is to a roll an unconscience person to their back and lift head out of water. Which INFLATABLES do not.

    Untrue. Automatic ones certainly do this, and are required to to meet the safety standards. In fact the manual ones do too, but obviously need manual triggering.

    • Like 1
    • Downvote 1
  15. This is a basic electrical question. The breaker is there to protect the CABLE not the load (winch).

    Cable sizing is done by a Load (amps), Volts, and distance (including return - it's a circuit, remember!). Normal allowable volt drop over the cable is 3% for essential circuits, 5% is ok for a winch. There are several good cable size calculators available online - like this https://www.fabhabs.com/dc-cable-sizing-calculator

    If the system works now, and the spec of the winch motor is not available, does the cable get warm when the winch is operated under load? If not, the cable is adequate, and you can work backwards from the cable size to determine the breaker required. If it does get warm, you need a good clamp meter to read the actual draw (in amps), and can work the calc above to determine the correct cable size.

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