Island Time
-
Content Count
8,264 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
200
Content Type
Profiles
Media Demo
Forums
Gallery
Calendar
Store
Posts posted by Island Time
-
-
Provided your garmin has N2K it will work fine, but as above, with no battery display.
$1000 + GST for the masthead unit and sender, 13 in stock ex navico Sydney right now, delivery about a week.
-
On 26/11/2022 at 4:51 PM, CarpeDiem said:
In a previous life, when I was much younger, I spent a lot of time climbing mountains and for a while was an Apline instructor. So have had quite a bit of exposure to Prussicing in extreme environments.
Prussic's are very iffy on technical ropes, eg, if the rope you are climbing has a Dyneema outer then using a prussic could result in death.
Prussic's are hopeless on iced up ropes, probably won't occur on a boat for any one reading this... But keep it in mind.
More importantly on a boat, be aware of wet ropes. Wet ropes can also greatly reduce the friction. This includes the line you are climbing and the Prussic line.
The classic prussic, shown above in IT's first post, is hands down the best for ascending and descending a rope. Even if you are planing on escaping the system at the top of the rig and using a descender, you need to consider that you may have to down climb one day.
The French prussic, in the second image, is not great for ascending because the fisherman's knot works its way up around the rope, creates less friction and can easily cause a run away, if not managed carefully. It only likes going one way which is down. This prussic is best used as a backup when decending, eg, in case you let go of the rope.
The best prussic for ascending is the Klemheist Prussic. It's similar to the French, but does not suffer from the roll over risk. But it is hopeless for descending because it hates going down the rope. (which makes it the best candidate for ascending). So if you have any doubt if you can escape the system and transfer to a descender, then I could not recommend the Klemheist.
There's another Prussic called a Belchmen (sp?) it's also very good for ascending but you have to be well practiced on the lines you are intending to use to know that it will work for you.
Your Prussic rope should be 60% to 70% the diameter of the rope you are climbing. 6mm works well for 10mm ropes.
The one bit of advice I would give to anyone is to try it out. Having done a lot of prussicing in the past, I know that I absolutely do not have the fitness levels required to get to the top of my very short mast...
After reading this, and re-looking at the pic, the french prussic pic I posted isnot right either! This IS the one I use, and not had issues with, Very similar, but a little different!
Always thought that was a French prussic! Learn something new every day I guess!
You do need to get all the weight off it for descending, but that's pretty easy with foot loops. I use four. One shorter one at chest level on the harness/bosuns chair, two foot loops, and another to the safety halyard from the harness/bosuns chair. easy to stop for a rest then!
-
2
-
-
On 24/11/2022 at 8:05 AM, aardvarkash10 said:
I'll be using a prussic as a safety,, but I wanted something that looks more positive for climbing! I watched a few videos of people using just prussics. My sphincter puckered.
Ok, that pic is not entirely accurate. It's an English prussic. I've found they can slip on occasion. So I changed to a French prussic, which only locks in one direction, but you can't fall up!
-
1
-
-
Mine way more high tech!
But the secret is big loops and decent footware. Lift with your legs.... don't try to climb with your arms!
-
2
-
-
Volts are not a good indication of state of charge, unless the battery has been at rest (no charge or discharge) for 10 hours. That is unrealistic.
Battery monitors can be good or bad. Even the same models. Depending on setup and understanding of the user.
Apart from the new balmar SG 200, which is quite clever, and learns the battery over a few cycles, the others all must be setup properly, or won't tell the truth!
I like the Victron BMV-712 - smart. It has a shunt to measure amps in/out, but you must program actual capacity, Peukerts number, fully charged volts and tail current to make them accurate. Your battery manufacturer should be able to provide this info. Once done, they are a great asset, as they can easily tell you battery %, voltage, and current in and out, including to an app on your ph via bluetooth, showing historical data etc. I have used this data several times to get batts replaced under warranty for customers.
-
Got any pics?
-
4 hours ago, ballystick said:
How about this person http://www.efrontier.co.nz/estore/index.php?currency=NZD I think he out SW Auckland, hard to understand when you talk to him
These guys import cheap Asian products that often don't meet AUS/NZ standards. They either don't know or don't care. They wont have access to garmin parts as they are not garmin service agents. Be aware that any radio frequency equipment that does not meet the standards is illegal to use in NZ. Seems you can sell it, you just cant use it legally. To do so (although the risk of being caught is very low) is to risk a large fine.
-
1
-
-
No one does repairs as far as I can find out. Garmin are not interested in anyone doing so either. I tried to get a service agency, just a straight out NO, we have enough agents. Garmin (marine support at least) seems non existent in NZ. There are only resellers, no electronics tech support. Post up here if you find anyone who can help!
-
Pic uploads working again. These are Bad Kitty's strut pics...
-
1
-
-
Hmm, you might like to consider this from the Facebook Marine Electrics forum admin, Rod Collins. I consider Rod one of the world experts in this field (bold and underlined by me);
WE are now allowing used electrical gear to be sold in the group..WARNING:Only legit Marine brands EG: Victron, Magnum,Outback, BLUESEA SYSTEMS Ancor Balmar, Mastervolt Sterling Power, Pro Mariner.etc. No Pop-up/phony"brands" that masquerade as quality products such as Renogy, Scamzon electrical parts etc. etc..No Noco products. No used LiFePO4 batteries unless a quality brand such as Lithionics, Mastervolt,orVictron, (Battleborn would be the lowest quality allowed.) No DIY … -
Nope, would not upload for me either. Sent message and files to editor. Happy I don't have to do this any more!!
-
1
-
1
-
-
Good job Steve. There would be a few here who would be happy to discuss this with them. They could even create a user just for that? I'd believe it after it happened though!
-
22 minutes ago, funlovincriminal said:
So after a week of fiddling, testing and measuring it would appear I have excorised the demons from my freezer.
Wound txv in a couple of turns and back out to original position half a turn per day.
Been keeping a bunch of bottles of frozen water and hello fresh freezer packs in there and running motor freezer every day at random times, and happy to report its worked every day.
Not an easy task when not on a marina!
My jubilation at possibly saving $1000 or so was short lived this morning when I found that the knead-it repair I did on the exhaust elbow last year was indeed temporary, the raw water pump has developed a drip and the hot water cylinder has a puddle of bright red yanmar engine coolant under it.
Amazing what you pick up when sitting around waiting to measure freezer Temps every day!
Ha ha, yep, its the time it takes that gives the poor reputation these systems have. If your prepared to learn and do it yourself, they are great and reliable once sorted, but if you pay for this, it takes time and is therefore expensive!
-
1
-
-
Just keep this in mind. Some installs Ive seen, the alternator charges the start batt, DC-DC charges the LiFePo4. Technically OK, BUT you loose the main (IMO) advantage of LiFePo4 in that most DC-DC chargers dont have anywhere near the output of a decent alternator, so you bank charges much more slowly. Better, (also IMO) is to use a proper good alternator, with ext reg and temp sensing - for the ALT! to charge the LiFePo4 and then DC-DC to charge the Start and Accessory (Thrusters, winches etc) batts.
This is a very good doc on LiFePo4 - incl some basic setup diagrams https://marinehowto.com/drop-in-lifepo4-be-an-educated-consumer/
-
TX valves are not simple (except mechanically!), as they adjust superheat. Superheat is a concept many struggle with. Here is a good article on the subject https://www.achrnews.com/articles/96890-understanding-superheat
So, in this case, what I was talking about is that the TX valve also regulates how much refrigerant can pass, and effectively slow down or speed up the flow rate in the system. The frosting on the return line is where the liquid refrigerant is getting to before reverting to gas.
If the flow rate is too fast, liquid can get back to the compressor - cant compress liquid = compressor failure.
What you want is for the liquid refrigerant to loose most of it's cold energy in the eutectic tanks - which it can't do if it travels thru too quickly. So, you can slow the flow rate by closing (clockwise) the TX valve a bit (1/4 turn at a time) and this will move the the frosting back up the line some...
This is why refrigeration is a dark art to many!
-
1
-
1
-
-
Think about this. The LiFePo4 battery does not want (or like) to be kept fully charged. The Lead Acid MUST be kept fully charged for decent life. Standby voltage for a LiFePo4 batt is around 13.4v, which conveniently is pretty close to the float voltage of an AGM. So a VSR is OK, but normally I put a switch in their circuit so they can be manually disconnected when needed.
Most DC-DC chargers have an input and output, so no, not bi-directional.
-
On 27/10/2022 at 9:15 AM, waikiore said:
I have a similar set up with Blue Seas VSR controlling the alternator charge, and a Victron MPPT reg doing the solar , have been pleasantly surprised that the VSR also links under strong sunlight solar charge.
Vsr's dont care where the voltage comes from, if it's high enough they will engage. They are available in single and dual sense (single watches one batt voltage for switching, dual watches both/either.)
-
No problem, it'll work fine. Personally though, I'd go for a Victron controller over EPEver. More reliable, better interface, more programmable, and better output.
-
Here is Legasea's link to a submission you can make. Only unitl Friday Night 8pm... https://legasea.co.nz/action/campaigns/hauraki-gulf-marine-park-marine-protection-proposals-submission-form/
-
1 hour ago, funlovincriminal said:
It has R154
Did you mean R152a? That's a replacement for R134a, but Ive never heard of R154 (not that that means much!) If it's right, is it new?
-
If it's a sticking TX valve, sometimes a sharp tap with a hammer will move it if it's stuck (or dirty). This is not 100%, and if it starts working only shows it is the valve, it's not fixed and would almost certainly do it again. To change the valve the unit needs the gas removed (or stored in the accumulator if fitted) unfortunately, so it's a job for a fridge tech.
-
A couple of things could cause this. Are you sure the sight glass was empty? Not just full of liquid? A stuck txv valve could be it, so could ice.
Does the centre of the sight glass indicate its wet? It changes Color to do that, but the actual Color depends on the unit. It’s normally indicated what Color is what on the outer ring of the sight glass. If it’s wet, change the filter/drier.
When it’s on, make certain the clutch engages, and the centre of the compressor is actually turning.
What you should see in the sight glass is 1stly nothing, then after a few seconds some liquid and bubbles. Liquid level should completely fill the sight glass, and bubbles should disappear after a few mins (not more than 10), leaving the sight glass full of clear liquid. Can look empty at this point, or maybe has a trapped bubble in it. That’s ok. Check again when fully cold but still running - full of liquid with no bubbles indicates a full gas charge. Bubbles passing thru at any stage after the first few mins indicates low gas.
Some installs are controlled with pressure regulation, but that will switch the compressor off and on as required, so you don’t have to remember.
The refrigerant gases have got really pricey over the last few years, with a bottle of r134a now being over $2k. Servicing engine driven units can be very time consuming and therefore expensive, esp if there is a really slow leak (can be virtually impossible to find!) or you need to change to a current refrigerant.
-
1
-
-
The bearings can be bought often at a fishing reel repair place. If you can get the cups off, use CRC marine and then put a battery drill on the cup shaft, spin for a min each direction with the drill. The crap often drips out while doing that. Then turn slowly with your fingers, any resistance or roughness = new bearings....
-
Probably bearings. Don't know about stowe, but most can be replaced. Even cleaning can fix some, they get full of crap over time...but you'll have to take it down.
a big sail
in MarineTalk
Posted
If I was to do this as a delivery, I'd be working on 3-4 months. Its a long way, and there will be considerable wear/tear on the boat, motor, sails and all. This is the equivalent of about 10 years of local sailing. When you consider that, the ship is not that expensive (and lot more reliable and quicker). If not sailing yourself, a delivery skipper would likely charge about $50k for that voyage, + expenses and + Crew.
If you are relocating, sell the boat here and buy another. Not really worth moving her. IMO