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Island Time

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Posts posted by Island Time

  1. it all depends on what you have, boat and engine, and what you are going to.

    I wrote an article about that for Island Time a while back, and I chose the easiest engine to fit to my engine space for that reason. See

    I can certainly see how you could spend an additional $15K + if there was lots of boat building to do, or changing from Sail Drive to shaft, or vice versa, or had to move mounts and structure etc.


  2. IMO it makes a huge difference.

    Simply the best change you can do to an  AP.

    I changed my own one, which was an AP28 with a AC42 computer and custom ram. Way better course holding, and much less hunting. But since then I've changed the whole system, to a triton pilot with NAC3. Same compass and same ram. The Precision 9 was the best update of all of it...

    Regardless of whether you buy it from me or not :-)...

  3. The hull is like it is to reduce wind resistance,  with the canoe body to help earlier lift out, the flat sections esp aft to provide the required form stability for the AC 36 rules. The flat deck is to provide end plate benefits to the sails. I dont think the sides are concave, they don't appear that way in reality. 

  4. Quite true 2flit.  I'd like to emphasize to everyone READ YOUR SPECIFIC BATTERY PDS (Product data sheet). Don't take anyone's word for the correct settings, check them yourself. Its not hard, and if they are wrong, the battery life will be reduced, possibly substantially. It's your money, and your risk. 

  5. The foil bearing pics are on the old boat, but give some idea of the structure arrangement for the foil pivot. A LOT of carbon for the huge loads...

    So, the canoe body is more pronounced, to help earlier lift off.

    The large flat hull is not for plaining, but to meet the form stability requirements.

    The crew will now be below deck in the side pods, and the deck is clear.

    The lower deck gives about 400mm more sail area for free.

    Yes the foils in the pics are different on each side, these are foils 3 and 4 of the allowed 6.

    She is to be out sailing this morning.....

  6. 5 hours ago, BOIGuy said:

    IT, my Solar seems to end, after a day or two of no load/use, on float at 0.3A at 13.5v for a 130ah house + start setup, always thought it was a bit much but you think this is fine?

    Short answer - Yes.

    All I can say is check the battery PDS (Product data sheet) to ensure that that is the correct voltage for your specific batts for float. While you are at it, check the bulk/absorbtion voltage requirements for the batts, and make certain that the solar is doing that as well. 

  7. Ok, battery charging basics. When the batts are full, a good regulator will drop to "float" - the storage state for batts. Typically for a LA 12v battery, this will be circa 13.5-13.8v. The current (AMPS) going in to the batts is "decided" by the battery resistance - basic V=IR. When the battery is full, it should accept somewhere around 1% or less of bank capacity - so <1a for a 100a/h battery. 

    If you want to test the solar panel, then discharge the battery to <70%(so the battery will accept a decent charge rate)  and then see what the solar produces in direct sunlight, panel set at 90 deg to the sun angle. Measure amps, check the voltage when the amps is read. AmpsXvolts=watts. A 160A panel should produce around 13a at 12v in perfect conditions.

    What amps the panel puts into the batts at or near full charge is not really an indicator of anything. Check the voltage, and make sure it's the right voltage for your batteries. 

  8. No one can answer if it's worth repair without a detailed inspection. I know of several sd50's with close to 10,000 hours, however I also know of some that have been replaced at similar hours to yours. Its unusual to have a gear failure as mentioned above. Cone issues are common. Lots of owners claim meticulous service, but the issues can be hidden. Missing teeth can be operational - moving quickly from fwd to reverse,  or engaging reverse while the prop is spinning at speed when sailing etc - shock loading the SD. Once peices of loose metal are in with the gears, or teeth are missing, damage can be quickly fatal.

  9. Add the plugin.  Go to https://www.o-charts.org/ and get an user permit Key, $22. Use the unser permit in the OCPN plugin to generate a fingerprint file for the install. Go to https://www.encservice.linz.govt.nz/ and make an account - free. Insert user permit and then wait until they authorize it, giving you a permit.txt file. Download that, and the charts. Use the info in the OCPN plugin to decrypt the charts for use, and then away you go. It is a bit of a learning curve, took me about an hour the first time.

  10. Basics first. S-63 charts are Vector charts (Digital, lines not pixels, data layers built in - like Navionics and Cmap). They are used on some ECDIS systems (what large commercial vessels can use instead of paper. 

    Only some display systems can use S-63. OpenCPN is one free one. Here is an example;


    In this image I've just hovered the mouse over the light on Maria Island to bring up the light sectors - an example of data layers.

    So what's the big deal? How about the professional quality (required carriage)charts for free? Thanks to the NZ goverment. 

    To make it go in opencpn takes a little config, and you have to by the encryption key for each device - it's $24 odd.

    Thanks to the NZ government. Much of the world still charge for their charts.


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