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Posts posted by Island Time
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On 12/01/2026 at 3:59 PM, Neil said:
@IslandTime Do you know if this is still true? My eWOF is about to expire and I'm being told I'll now need to have grounding plate. Is that a new thing?
As CD said. Like all of it, up to the inspector. I don't have a plate, but my keel is connected to the bonding system, and is used as both a SSB ground plane, and ships ground. Bigger by a fair bit than a plate...
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On 14/01/2026 at 5:07 PM, Vivaldi said:
@Island Time - Matt, do you stock these?
Not stock, about 5 days from order. Commonly installed on hanse boats and others. Not as reliable as the rams. Normally seized solenoids and internal water ingress issues. It's usually not a big issue to put in a removable end on a ram, held by an r clip...
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53 minutes ago, Jonquil said:
How is the furling drum attached to the stay? The stay, if properly toggled (and i'm sure it is) will naturally sway in an even arc. But if you introduce a hard spot, even for a few inches then you have a fatigue point.
This, as it's an alado furler. Has a 50mm plastic clamp on the stay. But with the 2 toggles it "should" self align.... Had done about 30000 miles though.
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Dual toggle at base of forestay pin at base, T connector above it. No sign of bending, thread is dead straight. The break is spotlessly clean and shows no corrosion. Yes there is a small tear on one side, maybe 1-2mm of ripped thread. This fitting, for some stupid reason was 1/2 inch, but all the other stays are 5/8. New forestay on today, all 5/8, and 10mm wire (up from 8). Last time the rigging was replaced I just asked the rigger to duplicate it. I should have looked closer!
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Ok, we were sailing yesterday fully loaded. But it failed at anchor today with a decent bang as the preload released. Damn lucky not too lose the rig...
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Well, this year id planned to replace the standing rigging on IT.
Have to be sooner now, broke the forestay today, inside the furler drum, the threaded part of the swage failed as per pics below.
Not my specialty, but seems to be an embrittlement failure which is not common.
14 years old. No visible corrosion.
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2 hours ago, Magic Bus said:
It is quite hard to see in the photos but luckily there doesn’t appear to be any corrosion where the plate goes through the deck.
The issue is that it could be cracked inside the deck. You can't tell without removing it. AT 40yrs it's due anyway!
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This bolt is likely pulling thru or broken. Only solution is to remove the bracket, clean it up and inspect carefully for cracks, crevice corrosion etc. A "quick fix" could result in considerable damage and loss of the rig. I don't like the flowcoat and sealant covering - can't see what's under it, and more than that part of the fitting has moved....
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Show us a Pic. Are the bolts loose/broken or is the timber the issue???
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See https://www.yachtingnz.org.nz/news/have-your-say-proposed-update-nz-maritime-rules
Thoughts?
Seems to me Maritime NZ are finding it to hard to do what YNZ used to do (cheaper) and are now proposing just not to do it!
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Indeed. There is one here at GH that's using the 2025 draft already. I think that's wrong, as it is not even a ratified standard yet, and may not be...
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Interesting. My understanding is that the 2014 standard is cited and legal. As usual, the one hand does not know what the other is doing...
Also, on the NZ standards website"
AS/NZS 3004.2:2014
Current
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So currently there is no retrospectivity clause. Every boat would have to meet this standard.
Part of the draft says that there may be NO PVC insulation on cables. This means every boat I know of would need to be re-wired.
There is a requirement for fireproof (and certified) battery boxes for all Lithium chemistries. This means a system designed by an engineer, and approved by a fire engineer. IMO this is totally impractical.
There is a requirement for negative pressure in the battery compartment, and min airflows, yet it has to be sealed fireproof.
I have posted my comments on the draft linked above, and in some cases just liked existing comments.
It would be best if we can get as many people to respond as possible. It is certainly not in our interest to have this accepted as is.
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On 22/10/2025 at 5:31 AM, Zozza said:
Radar, AIS, etc.... good aids for sure, but my question is -> you gotta sleep, even as a single-hander, so you truly cannot always be keeping a watch, at least not a human one. I guess the gizmo's do a beepy thing loud enough to wake you up from dreaming about mermaids when another ship is near..... AIS does for sure, not sure about radar.
Modern Radar is a better watch keeper than most crew - can can have a LOT of different alarms - Zones, Proximity, Collision risk (via MARPA or Doppler), and can, via a relay, run any alarm you want. Low power consumption, never needs a piss, doesn't get tired, grumpy, or distracted...
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They seem to be getting worse. Best not to be anywhere near this!
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Done the response form...
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Lithium is the way to go - IF you are going to keep the boat. Its worth the extra initial cost, as the per cycle cost is way less than lead acid.
Advantages are
- Weight
- Speed of charging is WAY better - even with same charging sources.
- Capacity - you can use 90% of most LiFePo4 cells, but on 50% of Lead acid based.
- HUGELY better cycle life - like the ones I have are 11,000 cycles - lead acid is about 700
Disadvantages;
- Cost up front
- Ancillary changes needed - to protect alternator, and to comply with AS/NZ3004 requirements.
Just remember - There is no such thing as a compliant (to NZ Standards) drop in LiFePo4 battery. To have a safe install you need fusing, Alternator protection, and visual and Audio warnings before BMS disconnect.
Your other question about panels - answer is - It depends. If you add a panel to a solar array, if the controller is capable, you can just plug in another panel. However, if the new panel is in another position, and likely to be in different sun/shade, another controller should be used. IMO use Victron Controllers, they are just better, and provide more power than others.
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You mean waterproofing??
Tent magic, or tent magic ultra. Paint on. Works great...
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22 hours ago, CarpeDiem said:
Yep. Been through it with a friend. Not my vessel but I was along for the ride. Pretty straight forward actually...
It's pretty well documented on the MNZ website and works just like it.
Same for my customers who have done it. They say considerably easier than Cat1 was...
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IMO if you think you can use a legal additive and improve an antifouling designed by industrial chemists and biologists you're dreaming. Most likely you'll make it worse. The most effective ingredient was Tributyltin - now illegal in most jurisdictions. See https://ftloscience.com/tragic-tale-tributyltin/
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eWOF Inspectors - Recommendations
in TechTalk
Posted
Someone must know an inspector at westhaven??