Island Time
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Posts posted by Island Time
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1 hour ago, Guest said:
Is ozefridge electric compressor or boat motor driven?
Electric.
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Nope. There will be a heat exchanger between fridge and freezer. Not yet installed. I'll post a pic when it is, but there are 2 50mm dia tubes between fridge and freezer. There will be a SS plate/cover over them on freezer side, and on fridge side a temp controlled fan takes air from top of fridge, blows it across the plate in freezer, returns it to fridge. There is no air exchanged between fridge and freezer, as that causes frosting. Basically the fridge runs as a parasitical load from freezer. So both cabinets from the one condenser...
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33 minutes ago, CarpeDiem said:
How is your fridge cooled?
Its an Ozefridge. Its air cooled until the condenser reaches 38 deg, then it swaps to water (fresh water, borrowed then returned to the tank). Uses eutectic tanks for holdover. Once finished, I hope to be back to one run per day, about 30% of the time in the tropics, less here in NZ... Does not really use the water cooling in NZ, except sometimes in mid summer.
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Current state... coming along slowly...
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Oh, and what Brand or production boat? I can show you installs on Hanse, Jenneau, Bene and a few others...
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The answer is "it depends".
Best way would be to take a look, as makes and models of all devices are needed to answer that question.
No decent marine electrician will install a system that does not comply with the current NZ regs -AS/NZS 3004 (and therefore meets Ewof stds). The main issue here is both Audio and Visual alarms before a batt disconnect.
Entry level (one install I'm doing on 14th for example) will be approx $4k installed (using existing DC-DC), 314 A/hr fully compliant. Another I did recently was $14k, 942 A/hr, Dual alternator conversion etc....
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Same. Also, why do they wait until a vessel has sunk? Takes lots more time and $$ then!
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What would you like to know? I work out of GH, and have a few customers here with Lithium conversions. 2 more upcoming... feel free to call me if you wish.
Matt
Neptune's Gear Ltd
0221539176
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The v60B (simrad version is RS40b) is a good unit, but does not have wifi. It's $1758 Incl GST. Its not supported by a Navman 550, which is why I suggested the NAIS500 and an MFD (Plotter, with wireless). NAIS with Splitter, GPS ant, and 7 inch Vulcan is about $2800. Its a bit less than the V60B and a MFD...
Happy to Discuss with anyone interested.
Matt
0221539176
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1 hour ago, Howdie2 said:
I may well be overthinkig this . I'm leaning towards just using marine traffic and keeping a good lookout!
Dont rely on Marine traffic at sea. It can be a long time behind (an hour or more) real time. A ship goes a long way in an hour!
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10 hours ago, Howdie2 said:
I have the old raymarine st 60 i thinking is, just wind speed and direction and a speed log
OK. AIS transponders with screens or wifi are a bit pricey, especially if you want wifi as well. The digital yacht ait5000 doesn't have a screen, but is a transponder with wifi - its $2300 incl gst. Considering you could buy a B&G MFD AND a NAIS500 for about $2500, that might be a better option... that would give wifi via the mfd..
As BP says you don't NEED anything (even a yacht - people have crossed oceans in rowboats!)
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shorthanded in a small boat a transponder is better than a radar reflector.... what are your instruments? (Other than the Navman?)
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On 19/06/2025 at 3:50 AM, Frank said:
Nice work Matt, what is the white liner material ? looks like 6mm thk GRP or something similar ?
Its 5mm Acrylic. Bit more progress today with a test fit before side on fridge and top on both
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The lifejack tether thing is interesting. I used to be involved in whitewater kayaking, and have training and experience in swiftwater rescues. There are special life jackets available for this. They include a harness and tether. The tether connects to the jacket above the waist at the BACK. This is because a front mounted tether will submerge you in fast water. A rear mounted tether brings you to the surface. The tether have a quick release at the front on a simple lever buckle. This system works very well, and many swiftwater rescue guys wear an inverted knife mounted on left shoulder...https://www.rocknrescue.com/product/mustang-universal-swift-water-rescue-vest/
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So the cabinets are coming along. Next I have to figure out how to do the lids and seals.
The old ones were hinged, but only sealed on 3 sides, not along hinged edge.
Anyone got any clever ideas about how to make a lid that seals properly and hinges? Maybe I'm over tired, I can't think of a good way right now!
And thanks to Tony (ynot on here) for the insulation!
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8 hours ago, marinheiro said:
At least you have good access for the job, unlike so many boats (including mine) where the fridge/freezer is in the outer corner of the galley and you would have to destroy the whole galley to get at it.
Yeah, still a fair bit of the mahogany timber had to be removed - partly why I put it off so long! Tried to get it out in as few pieces as I could, as I intend to reuse it... The counter top had to be demolished, so a new one to come, of course that won't match the sink top exactly, nor the heads benchtops. I'm sure the Admiral will want those done as well so they match again...
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Well, after 38 years, the fridge and freezer in Island Time is due for replacement. They are big (290ltrs), but the insulation is knackered. It now takes a lot of running to keep cold, and has greatly reduced hold over. Due to the time of year, and the lack of work at the moment, I've bitten the bullet. Below you can see removing the cabinet, how wet the insulation was, and how it looks,with the cabinet removed tonight ..
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Nope, still missing apparently;
HARBOURMASTER’S OFFICE - URGENT NOTICEPolice are seeking information on the whereabouts of Julie Butler, who is missing from Aotea/Great Barrier Island.The 55-year-old usually lives aboard her yacht the ‘Blazing Shadz’, moored in Kaiaraara Bay.Police were notified by a partner agency about concerns for Julie on 4 April.Local Police enquiries were hampered by the adverse weather conditions on the island at the time. However, on 7 April it was confirmed Blazing Shadz was not moored in its usual location.Enquiries have been ongoing since this time, including with the Police Maritime Unit and Coastguard.Police have also made enquiries with nearby Harbourmasters in areas that Julie has frequented, including Whangārei.Police have also been making extensive enquiries with Julie’s friends, whānau and other partner agencies.To date we have been unable to locate Julie or her vessel Blazing Shadz.Police are seeking information from the public to assist these enquiries as there are ongoing welfare concerns for Julie.Please contact 105 using the reference number 250404/8311 if you have any information about Julie or the vessel so that we can reunite Julie with her family. -
Mammoth undertaking!
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1 hour ago, CarpeDiem said:
This is feeling kind of circular...
LiFePO4 (LFP) is a lithium-ion battery.
It has a cathode material that makes it more stable and less prone to overheating or fire compared to other lithium-ion chemistries, like NMC or NCA.
Misconceptions arise when people treat "lithium-ion" as synonymous with less stable chemistries, like NMC or LCO, which have been linked to high-profile incidents (e.g., smartphone or EV fires).
LiFePO4’s robust safety profile—owing to its lower energy density and higher thermal stability—leads some to mistakenly believe it’s a separate technology. But calling LiFePO4 non-lithium-ion is like saying a stainless steel knife isn’t a knife because it’s more durable than a carbon steel one. The lithium-ion label encompasses a family of chemistries, including LFP, NMC, LCO, and others, all unified by their reliance on lithium-ion movement.
Yes, I agree with that, however that's why I put in that link. Other (not LifePo4) lithium ion batts are generally not considered as safe as LiFePo4. Perhaps this link is better https://www.lithiumbatterytech.com/lifepo4-vs-li-ion-vs-li-po-battery-complete-guide/ and I've quoted some of it below...
Composition of Cathode, Anode, and Electrolyte
The cathode in a LiFePO4 battery is primarily made up of lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4), which is known for its high thermal stability and safety compared to other materials like cobalt oxide used in traditional lithium-ion batteries. The anode consists of graphite, a common choice due to its ability to intercalate lithium ions efficiently. The electrolyte used in LiFePO4 batteries is typically a non-flammable organic solvent or a polymer gel that allows for the movement of lithium ions without posing significant safety risks.
Unique Features that Distinguish it from Other Lithium-based Batteries
One key feature that sets LiFePO4 batteries apart from other lithium-based batteries is their exceptional thermal stability and safety profile. Unlike conventional lithium-ion batteries that may experience thermal runaway under certain conditions, LiFePO4 cells are much less prone to overheating or fire hazards. Additionally, LiFePO4 batteries exhibit a long cycle life with minimal capacity degradation over repeated charge-discharge cycles, making them ideal for applications requiring durability and reliability.
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22 hours ago, CarpeDiem said:
LiFePO4 are Lithium-ion batteries.
What makes a Lithium-Ion battery a Lithium-Ion battery, is that lithium ions move from the cathode to the anode during discharge, and vice versa during charging.
Saying that LiFePO4 is OK, but Lithium-ion is not OK, makes no sense.
Yes, LiFePO4 is a safer chemistry, but it isn't the safest Li-ion chemistry, not by a long shot.
99.99% of LiFePO4 batteries on the market have a liquid electrolyte, this electrolyte is highly flammable and explosive. If you want to stick with LFP and would like to be an order of magnitude safer, than everyone else, then you need to be looking at Solid State Li-ion batteries.
https://safiery.com/product/safiery-solid-state-lithium-12v-200ah/
https://www.anker.com/blogs/others/lifepo4-vs-lithium-ion
LiFePo4 is considerably safer than Lithium-ion... As tested by ABYC.. might see If I can find that report if I have time...
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22 hours ago, CarpeDiem said:
The issue is that the cited standard doesn't mention the fire rating requirements of a Li-ion battery enclosure.
Just because it's not mentioned doesn't eliminate common sense. If you made your battery compartment out of something that burst into flames at 30degC you would still meet the standard but you'd be pretty stupid!
So we therefore turn to other standards that do mention it - e.g., the one which covers the installation of Lithium-ion batteries in RV's and Motorhomes, or the one which covers the installation of Lithium-ion batteries in your house... these standards can be used to provide installers with a baseline that they can work towards.
While the conversation has moved into standards, you originally asked what to build your battery box out of, my recommendation is something not easily combustible.
Id just like to re-iterate -the issue is that (IMO) Lithium Ion has no place on a yacht. LiFePo4 only!...
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Personally I've NEVER seen a recreational vessel with a fire proof battery box...
With LiFePo4, you are MUCH more likely to have an electrical fire at a high resistance connection or failed appliance than at the battery. Pretty hard to make the entire electrical system fireproof. IMO better to put the main battery switches somewhere easily accessible and/or have remote cut-off switches so you can easily shut down the power source. And decent extinguishers.
I think a LiFePo4 battery fire is EXTEMELY unlikely, especially in a system that meets the standards for monitoring and auto shut off by BMS.
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1 hour ago, bigal.nz said:
So the issue being MNZ want fire proof - the "ANZ" standard doesnt?
Yes
And standards are NOT normally retrospective. The current NZ legal standard is the one I quoted above. If you are after a commercial vessel install, best to speak with your local MNZ electrical surveyor.
Fridge rebuild
in TechTalk
Posted
Here is a pic of how the system works...