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Island Time

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Everything posted by Island Time

  1. A lot of his issue was, as is common, other boats. There is no safety in numbers! Tough to find when the "hurricane holes" are crowded... IMO don't stay in the hurricane/Cyclone zones in season, move on with a month or so to spare - the seasons are expanding...
  2. If that is fact, they should be prosecuted - that is fraud!
  3. Island Time

    BERYL

    Why you don't want to stay aboard in a cyclone...
  4. No. You must have the same brand and compatible models - if you wish to be able to calibrate/setup the system.
  5. Island Time

    Whales

    Check out this whale collision... https://www.facebook.com/share/p/Zg27iXqW27WufDjx/
  6. Not conclusive yet. Still discussion going on between MNZ and YNZ, but not looking great.
  7. The TAO BMS units that I use have simple Mode controls, Keep full, Normal (20% to 80%) Storage (40%-60%). Just select what you want on the menu, and the BMS controls all charge and discharge sources as needed. Keeping LiFePo4 full will reduce it's ultimate cycle life... but it's not a safety issue or anything..
  8. Radar can see the breakers and the palm trees, and the land the trees are on, so will give you a very good chart position check if overlay is used. But on a passage my planning is 3-5nm... Oh, and fwd scan only out to about 150/200m at best, great for poking into a bay or entry...
  9. Open water ie clearing an island, 3-5 NM, depending on area and chart reliability. Use radar to get distance off if there is anything above the surface, or breakers. If in enclosed waters, and I have to move, all available means - chart, Sat pics, different chart, radar, sonar and forward scan. Proceed really slowly. If 3 separate systems do not agree with my fix, I'm not moving!
  10. Balls up is two - three is a "total balls up"😞
  11. I have a merc 2.5hp 2 stroke - was used on a mates duck punt. He's gone electric. Its the current model one but I cant remember which year - i'll look tomorrow. Must have all of about 10 hours on it!. Anyone need a good Tender motor? Make me a half reasonable offer... It has a dodgy seal on prop shaft - from the weed in the duck pond! I can fix that for $40, or will sell as is for less... Matt 022159176
  12. Glenlivet 15 yr old single malt. Pretty nice!
  13. Some real life references here https://www.paraseaanchor.com/para-sea-anchor-testimonials/
  14. I've the approx loads and formulas somewhere. But I'm on my 2nd Whiskey and can't be arsed looking for them 😆. Iirc the max holding power of my rocna 20 is around 2000-2500 kg. The anchor gear is specd to suit this. My para anchor is a Coppins storm fighter, 5m diameter, with a centre pressure relief system held closed by really heavy bungee. In the storm we were in, I don't believe the loads on the primary rode -under bow roller - (on a bridle to a primary winch as well) I don't believe that the loads were any bigger than being anchored. If anyone is interested and near Gulf Harbour
  15. OK, here is another example - this is the same waypoint - just different chart scales... This is zoomed in, this next one zoomed out to next scale So, the waypoint has not moved! But the position of the reef moved about 2nm! The SAME issue is on the PAPER CHARTS at different scales. Interestingly, in this case the larger chart is the correct one. Not the 1st time I've seen that. Where there is little shipping, the charts are not fully reliable. You must have 3 data points to have a safe position. A modern digital radar would see the breakers, and can give you an ove
  16. This would be a rough basis for that passage. The red bits are boundaries - alarms go if we try to cross one. You don't have to follow exactly, but no boundaries nearby or crossed, you are good to go. Takes 5-10 mins to setup.. Its easier to do the thinking and planning while at anchor, once you've decided where you want to go. Then if stuff is going wrong, one of the primary tasks is already done... Passage planning, including boundaries and clearing marks etc, are all part of the RYA yachtmaster course, and should be 2nd nature to any skipper.
  17. Totally agree. understanding your tools and their limitations is an important part of being a Skipper.
  18. John, is that Navionics? It shows up a pretty high zoom on CMAP;
  19. IF That was the cause, it is very poor passage planning - and that looks somewhat likely. Situational awareness! Never relay on one source of navigational data! Confirm your position with multiple sources, and ALWAYS do a high zoom fly through of your passage plan. Contrary to BP's position, waypoints are a highly useful navigational aid - one inserted into this route, several miles off the reef, to either side, while planning the passage would have avoided the issue. So would boundaries with alarms (easy to put around any danger points), exactly as you would on a paper chart. Radar
  20. My starlink rate hasn't changed. $199/month for local roam. Currently got several customers using it in the islands on the same (NZ local roam) plan. They use priority data when doing passages. The issue with heaving to in the gulf is it's shallow, and never gets a fully developed sea state... Still, practicing is a lot better than not!. Island Time will heave to ok without help until about 40-50 knots - then if a wave knocks the bow down she'll try to sail away, and the helm balance is difficult to get right. Once on the 'Chute, that doesn't happen. I'd certainly use a series dr
  21. But you'd be mistaken. For multiple reasons. By stopping the boat, you remove its kinetic energy, and a wave must then overcome its inertia before a roll or knockdown happens. This is why heavier boats can be better in extreme conditions. You also minimize the area of the boat that a wave hits, and present the strongest parts to the waves. Finally, it's quite remarkable the effect to weather that heaving to has, and, if using a parachute, the waves break over that as well, and don't really break again before they get to the boat, so that assists the slick effect that heaving to has. Thes
  22. Yeah, I'd be happy never to see that again. It was on a parachute, to help us stay hove to. 37 hours. Ended up with seas bigger than the rig - and even though the boat was at about 30 deg to the waves (deliberately, so you don't jump off the backs) the waves were as big as the rig, and in the lee of them, she'd stand upright, just to be over 45 deg and more on the crests due to windage (no sail, bare poles) with a couple of knockdowns included for good measure - caused by wind, not waves. That got pretty tedious pretty fast! I don't believe any sail boat would have survived trying to
  23. Absolutely. If you can stop, and point the bow somewhat into the waves, the strongest part of the vessel is presented, as your slower/stopped, the time between waves is more and the motion is better. Sailors have been doing this for 100's of years (or more), but the art seems to have been substantially forgotten in the last 50 years. Most Ive ever seen is 93 knots over the deck, and I'm still here!
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