Island Time

The AC has always been checkbook racing. Like F1

I could not disagree more. Yesterday was great, and today was still good, albeit a bit fickle. IMO the best sailed boat won each race.

Silentwind. Best out there, but not the cheapest. Low start speed, quiet, and good output. Early ones had controller issues, but they seem to be remedied now. I have an air breeze with silentwind blades. Just about to take it off for a bearing replacement. Probably wont put it back up for local sailing, not needed. May sell it....

While all that is true, at least you are getting the issue acknowledged and communication from Navico. In my experience they have better support than raymarine or garmin....

I've not tried this with a RS20, but it does work in a (pure B&G) system with a RS40B - thats the one with the built in AIS transponder. I'll make some enquiries...

Please explain what it is you are trying to achieve, incl makes/models of equipment, and I'll see what I can do... Yes, lateral, I made some "enquiries". Your call has been reopened, and the world service manager is now envolved.... I'm sure we will both now be kept informed.

Ok. When I get back to work next week I'll have a look at the status of the patch. Do you have a case number? Another thing worth trying would be a hard reset on the wifi-1. The reset button is under the hard rubber bung by the other connectors.

Good point, but tritons are n2k only, but I did assume!

Do a source select (auto will do) under settings, network, sources. Make certain everything you have is on and going 1st....

Sorry, but this is not the gear. The wifi 1 is a wifi device, and never shows on the MFD device list, as that is what's on the NMEA 2000 network only. However, you should see it on the wifi connections under system. There have been some issues with the wifi 1 units bricking (locking up and not able to connect) depending on SW versions. Also it's not possible to control an autopilot from the remote screen, and this is by design, so that if a kid picks up the tablet, they cant crash the boat! If you have an new version of the remote software on the tablet, and an older one

You can buy a 10mm right angle attachment, like this https://www.trademe.co.nz/building-renovation/tools/power-tools/drills-screwdrivers/listing-2927869341.htm?rsqid=00bcf61e69a04dd8a79f1d692c2412d6-001

Heat gun, peel off the old patch, start again...

Send it to the harbourmaster....

The 750 watt one should not be used from a lighter socket - its a fire risk. Most inverters have rated (continuous) watts and also peak (surge or start up loads) up to 2x that. Install your inverter as close to the batts as possible, but not over the battery bank. This keeps the high amp cables ( the DC ones) as short as possible, giving the lowest possible voltage drop at the inverter, and the cheapest/smallest cables to be used, without excessive voltage drop under full load. Fuse the DC side. Ideally the AC side should go to an RCBO to prevent electrocution in the event of an app

Yep, you need to look at the shaft under the gland. Good time to change to a dripless system.....