Island Time
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Posts posted by Island Time
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4 hours ago, Guest said:
Yip, and what if your network goes down? Prefer not to have all my eggs in one basket.
A configurable engine temp monitor with audible alarm to a hot spot bolt on head coolant outlet is a fraction of the price.
I have an engine guardian on the trusty old 1KZ-te. Going to ad one to the the Yanmar. Mark 2 has oil.
Ok, lets think about that. Your car (after 1996) runs on canbus. Do you have a backup for that? Canbus (NMEA2000) on a boat can be broken, but most of the the devices can work standalone, or you can detach a faulty device if needed. Worst case, if the network does go down, factory instrument panel still works, MFD works standalone, maybe no autopilot. Your engine instrument data wont display on NMEA2000 displays. You can still get by
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1 minute ago, eruptn said:
I have a basic network with 2 displays, why not use them , I don't see size matters. I'm blind now except for a audio alarm.
The audible alarms and idiot lights are better than nothing, but by the time the oil pressure alarm (for example) goes while the engine is working hard, it's already too late...
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On 8/09/2022 at 10:33 AM, Psyche said:
Seems pretty straightforward, but what's the benefit on a small yacht?
I use one (But plugged into the volvo Can bus, with converter to NMEA) so I can see my engine data on my sailing instruments. When motoring, I can see Revs, Temp, etc on cockpit displays.
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On 3/09/2022 at 10:43 AM, Bad Kitty said:
Thanks Matt, done.
You going on BK, or land based Willy? Looks like Jo and I will be there, on a launch called Southern Cross...
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I'd use the EMU-1 actisense. But Maretron, Veethree, and yacht devices all make similar units...
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I reported it to the harbourmaster a couple of years ago - was sinking! Someone obviously sorted that...
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Congrats, looks well set up. Have a safe voyage home!
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Hey BK, ask vikimoore on here, she is the on water manager for the event.
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Well done! Not so easy in Winter!
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Do the antenna as well. Even the stainless ones with the base load (white plastic cylinder) degrade slowly in the weather.
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If the antenna (and coax) is 10yrs + is will have degraded. It's often the Class B AIS that shows this 1st. Change the cable and co-ax - they are not expensive.
Class B should Always give you 7-10 miles across water. Ships with class A should be 20 miles if your antenna and theirs are line of sight. I have seen over 100 Miles once, but that's weird atmospherics. I one had a ship call me from 46miles and ask my intentions - I didn't even know he was there!
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There is not much too them really. Prime pump, pre filters, HP Pump, membrane and then product output and brine dump. So, no product water (it does not "make" the brine, it's simply discharging the seawater. No product water is only a couple of causes, either not sufficient HP pressure (check HP pressure display, should be circa 800psi in seawater) stuck/non operating valve or blocked membranes. So, before getting a service, open seawater input thru hull, run unit and see what pressure it's getting up to. If it's insufficient, then when did you last change the pre-filter? Is the prime pump working? Is there air in the system?
It's not too hard to work thru, and pretty simple system. membranes are expensive, as are housings and HP pumps.
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Jon, that RM drive has the plastic gears, right? You can always have metal replacements made.
I've done a few tiller system APs for offshore or race boats. The ram/drive is always the issue, along with rudder angle sensor. Some are only interested in performance, not asthetics. They are not too hard - electric motor below deck, SS hydraulic ram above, with tiller pin and retaining clip for tiller end of drive. Solenoid to engage/disengage from AP Controller, or to remove ram, pull pin on tiller slip & off drive. They work well, but you can see the drive, and it's permanently in the cockpit.
Cable drives can also be used ( like the B&G SD10), but depends on cockpit configuration, (same with DD15 drive) and the end of the cable (rod on dd15) is always visible in the cockpit.
Both these units can use any AP computer, from the NAC 2/3 mid range to the H5000 pilot from B&G, or RM equivalents.
This type of setup will give you a pilot the equivalent of a quadrant connected pilot that will steer in any conditions, is extremely reliable, and, if specified and installed/configured correctly, can be better than 95% of helmsmen.
Otherwise it's tillerpilots, which are ok, but not really designed for offshore boats, and not as robust.
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The parallel or series answer is "it depends". Yes, you get more power from series in full sun. However when partially shaded, the whole array is severely effected. Parallel arrays are effected less by partially shading of part of the array, as the unshaded panels still produce full output. Yachts often have partial shading - masts, rigging etc.
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Sorry if all this sounds too negative. It can be done, and the area can have fantastic sailing and good weather. You just have to choose you time carefully, and be prepared to change your plans according to conditions...
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No Problem. Southern NZ is not an easy place to sail. These Pics are in Cook Strait in summer, same day, about an hour or so apart, in pretty good weather - but a bit fresh!
On a bad day, no place for a Yacht!
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1 hour ago, mattm said:
I like the Victron stuff to, but understand not wanting to spend so much in your circumstances.
Just remember, in a 12v circuit, an mppt controller does not give its best efficiency (any/much greater than a pwm??) unless you have 2 x 12v panels in series, or a 24v panel.
From a victron manual:
Recommended number of cells for highest controller efficiency: 72 (2x 12V panel in series or 1x 24V panel).
Hmm, Sorry Mattm, but I dont agree with that. Sure, the BEST POSSIBLE performance is as above (2x12 or a 24v panel). Improvments between PWM and MPPT can be as much as 40% in that configuration, but for a single panel install I've still seen improvements of over 25%.
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13 hours ago, Pedro said:
thanks, I'm checking all the options and best days to navigate, what do you think about going up to cape rianga and going down west?At this time of year the weather windows don't last long. It's further round the top, and the only real harbour that's accessible is New Plymouth. It has limited shelter and is designed for ships, with little yachting infrastructure. In w/NW conditions its rolly, even behind the breakwater. The west coast is pretty rugged, and more so the further south you get. Remember that that is (mostly) the prevailing weather side of the island.
If, for some reason, I had to do this passage at this time of year, from Auckland, I'd go E coast, no schedule, stop if needed, leave the boat if needed. But ideally if it was my boat, I'd leave her in Auckland until summer, do some cruising in the Hauraki Gulf, then in Feb I'd head south with a good 5 day forecast, and have a nice passage without being bashed (or much less likely) or frozen.
That is also the advice I'd give to anyone wanting me to skipper a delivery to Wgtn. Oh, and you may not be aware, but Wellington/Mana/Cook Strait was my home territory - I sailed there for 40 years.
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36 minutes ago, grant said:
its better than trying to get to Wellington...It a greater distance however should be an easier course.
the wind shoots out of Palliser Bay, it has been find stronger close to shore than further out (counter intuitive), further offshore the hills are less of an influence. I have seen the Police carry out several rescues of boats that have done the same trip and been hammered getting upwind to Wellington, they boats were often ok but they just beaten back by the weather.
Saying that, this is a view based on watching what has happened to others and observed conditions, I personally haven't done it.
Palliser bay is a natural wind funnel. You can get out of the waves close in, but in most of the bay the wind will be stronger there than further out - sometimes 2x the real wind speed. The Ngawi fishermen will tell you that in extreme conditions its known to have stones 10mm across hitting the boat up to 10Nm out! This section of the coasts should be avoided in heavy conditions, N or S. If, when you get to Napier, you dont have 2 days of reasonable conditions forecast (for S coast and Cook Strait), my advice would be to stop, and wait until you do. Then leave, and go as fast as you can!
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This is friday 6pm;
Eases until very light Midday Monday;
Tues lunchtime the NE is starting
By Wednesday lunchtime it's pretty strong;
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Hmm, 1st for this voyage would be - be flexible.
A trip to Wellington down either coast at this time of year is not easy. Be prepared to stop, and even leave the boat somewhere if the weather is not looking good.
Current forecast is fwd of the beam down to E.Cape friday - thru about Monday, and medium to strong S sector after east cape, until maybe Monday afternoon when it slowly drops off and comes to NE, strengthening (Strong, possibly gale) over the next few days - but behind you if your around E Cape. There will be NW gales in Cook Strait next week.
This voyage may only be 550 odd NM, but it deserves respect - remember you are going into the southern ocean - Wellington is at 41deg20 south. It will be very cold on night watch!
Take care, and put in a TR with maritime radio.
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On the Vulcan, with everything on, go to menu, network, sources, and run autoselect. Alternatively you can manually select the sources under network, sources, but easier just to let the system do it.
report back if that's not it...
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I'm not saying you wont find anyone, but you might like to consider a couple of issues. You need to state where you wish to go (for example a SRL <24m NZ ticket is restricted to 12nm off the coast). A coastal ticket (200NM) is worth more per day, Offshore master is more again. The pay rate offered is low, and at peak holiday period. Just for your info, my last job as skipper was $500 AUD/day. Which particular min ticket is required?
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The extreme runs on a go sim if you want data rather than calls mostly...
From the predictwind website;
"Perfect for offshore year round or seasonal use, keeping you connected anywhere in the world. In addition to the Iridium GO, our SIM cards and Airtime Plans are compatible with the Iridium 9555 and 9575 handsets"
Filling a hole in cabin top
in TechTalk
Posted
That'll work. For a structural repair, taper and overlap the glass. If you just want to fill the hole, find some suitable material (timber, foam) and use a hole saw to cut out a suitable size plug. Make it 5mm less deep than the thickness of the cabin top. Epoxy it in place, fill the cavity and fair (Vinylester filler is fine, dries in 20 mins, and sands well), paint to suit.