Island Time
-
Content Count
8,520 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
246
Content Type
Profiles
Media Demo
Forums
Gallery
Calendar
Store
Posts posted by Island Time
-
-
Do you guys know that there are already rules for boat ID? Often local body rules, Auckland ones say a boat must have a name on it, clearly readable, min 90mm high lettering. Jet skis have to have a number.
Again, the rules are there, just need enforcing.-
1
-
-
11 hours ago, Black Panther said:
That's what CG do now.
Yep. That and the enforcement/policing of existing rules would work fine. No need for yet more regulation. The harbour masters and maritime nz can already fine people.
-
1
-
-
Other anchoring ideas.
when wind not same direction as waves, use the chain hook to attach a bridle to chain, pay out a bit more, take bridle to sheet winch, then adjust angle as required, with bridle length.stern anchor to keep boat alignment as required.
spare chain/warp for deep anchorage
catenary weight for towing line (chain works better though)
-
- As a kedge. Sometimes might be needed in a hurry - like to get off the hard stuff on a falling tide!
- stream anchoring in tight space - one anchor each way into flow direction, can keep boat basically where it is when flow direction changes.
- storm anchor - either series or parallel
-
If you’ve had to buoy main anchor
-
2 hours ago, alibaba said:
I can't help with the BEP regulator sadly, but now that the question of regulators has come up... hope nobody minds me adding to thread- I have a Yanmar 3gm and its alternator goes through a Transpo IB301a regulator. It has a tricky little potentiometer screw to adjust the voltage. Tricky because the slightest alteration seems to alter the voltage quite a lot!
At the moment it is set to 14.5V. I have a starting battery with a 80 amp hour house battery, with a VSR.
Question, -1. is 14.5 the appropriate voltage, or do I need to increase it?
2. Can I charge a lead acid battery and an AGM battery off the same alternator, or would I be better to match to type of batteries - ie both lead acid.
Thanks
Question one. Read the PDS for the specific make and model of the batts, it will have min and max charge voltages in it, for both Bulk/Absorbtion and Float.
Question 2. Depends. Read the PDS for both batteries and see if the required voltages given there match each other.
Unasked question - Dont rely one what anyone online says, or even your local marine sparky. Read the manufacturer's PDS.
-
Licensing has not worked in any country I have been to (except as a revenue gathering exercise) , similar issues to NZ seen every day. We already have sufficient laws, they are just not policed.... Mostly.
-
1
-
-
Hi Kenny,
Gulf Harbour Yacht Club. Give me a call, we can likely find you a spot. Matt, 0221539176
-
If you have a float on trailer, bearing buddies are a good idea, or you'll be changing bearings pretty often. Unless it's really only used for launching, not road transport. Brakes can be an issue as well..
-
Most of those trailers don't have Keel Rollers. They are float on trailers completely without rollers...
-
It's a float on trailer. Steep ramps are good. Thee last little bit can be winched, loads are big if your dragging it! Some vesconite slides on the base would help a lot.
-
1
-
-
5 hours ago, CarpeDiem said:
I don't think that this is a 'GOOD' example of a basic system. I think that these kinds of pictures set DIYers up for an immediate fail, there's just so much more to be considered here. Sure it is an "example" but it isn't good (imo) and that should be called out.
Consideration needs to be given to:
- fusing between battery packs in case of a battery short and understand if you do or do not need to fuse
- issues of connecting drop-ins in parallel - 4 BMS's that do not talk to each other is a recipe for massive current flows
- not fusing the start battery - I know 99% of NZ installations are unfused, but that doesn't make it right
- not having a shunt to measure current to manage the Li charging profile to know when to stop
- not having a way to top off the starter battery
While this diagram is basic, I personally think it's a bit generous to call it "good".
Fair point. When I posted this I was thinking about an example of Alternator load dump management, not an instruction diagram of how to install a complete system. It is NOT saying any particular LiFePo4 units can do a bank of 4, does not say how to config BMS's, or fuses. But it DOES show a basic way of using your alternator (externally regulated with correct voltages, and hopefully temp sensing) with LiFePo4 batts. Which many web sites say you cant.
-
Try a warm swimming pool...
-
This is a good example of a basic system
-
1
-
-
I suggest anyone who has an inflatable jacket manually blows it up and jump in with it on. Try it. Make certain it works for you. Then try again with foul weather gear on, and whatever you normally carry. This will give you confidence if it works fine, and let you know if you need to upgrade.
My offshore jacket has crotch strap, hood, knife, plb, and a small but decent led torch attached. It is deliberately a manual unit, as I have had to use it several times as a harness, getting overboard to cut crap off the prop etc. seems that’s always the middle of the night….
-
2
-
-
It is a requirement of 150n inflatables to keep the wearers head above water. Not to do so means the jacket does not meet the NZ standards. Type 401 is the standard.
-
Nonsense.
Type 401 - inflatable
Achieves buoyancy by either a:
- water-activated switch
- manual pull cord
May include a mouthpiece
Designed to keep the wearer vertical during unconsciousness
Comfortable and convenient to wear at all times
Must provide 150 newtons of buoyancy
Guidelines for inflatable lifejackets
Download nationally agreed guidelines to help choose the right inflatable lifejacket, and know how and when to service it.
-
2
-
11 minutes ago, harrytom said:
The idea of a lifejacket is to a roll an unconscience person to their back and lift head out of water. Which INFLATABLES do not.
Untrue. Automatic ones certainly do this, and are required to to meet the safety standards. In fact the manual ones do too, but obviously need manual triggering.
-
1
-
1
-
1
-
-
This is a basic electrical question. The breaker is there to protect the CABLE not the load (winch).
Cable sizing is done by a Load (amps), Volts, and distance (including return - it's a circuit, remember!). Normal allowable volt drop over the cable is 3% for essential circuits, 5% is ok for a winch. There are several good cable size calculators available online - like this https://www.fabhabs.com/dc-cable-sizing-calculator
If the system works now, and the spec of the winch motor is not available, does the cable get warm when the winch is operated under load? If not, the cable is adequate, and you can work backwards from the cable size to determine the breaker required. If it does get warm, you need a good clamp meter to read the actual draw (in amps), and can work the calc above to determine the correct cable size.
-
IMO this was bound to happen eventually. Interesting inside info here https://www.stuff.co.nz/sport/opinion/128263816/history-shows-that-taking-the-americas-cup-to-spain-is-the-right-call
-
-
Send the pics to the harbormasters...
-
2
-
-
52 minutes ago, khayyam said:
I hope not. If so, what on earth were they doing out in this!?
Fishing Charter Vessel Enchanter.
Thoughts are with the families😢
-
1
-
-
Lots of new boats are electric only. Vessels that draw 20-50a all the time are not uncommon any more. Gensets and huge solar arrays are how it’s done mostly. 1 or 2 thousand watts of solar is becoming common on some of the large offshore cruisers. All the comforts of home…. At a cost!
-
6 hours ago, wheels said:
Yes me. I have had two batteries explode over the years. 3 actually as one was a bank of 2x 6V tractor batteries. The bang was defening and left my ears ringing for days. There was nothing left of the batteries apart from some lead cells. Brand new and huge things. Yet not one drop of acid or battery had touched me, yet the explosion had bent the bonnet of the Tractor.
I watched a guy in the yard I worked in, hook up huge jumper cables to a big dozer and he got them around the wrong way. There was a huge explosion of "stuff" and the cable clamps had cut clean through the Terminals.
Years ago now, I Nearly lost my boat not long after we bought it. It could nearly have also been my life. I had 1800A @ 12V for engine start. Shorting 1800A makes short work of even large Battery cables. I can't actually remember what caused thew short, but I think it may have been the failing of the Starter. An old CAV design and a pain in the A of a thing. I was doing something down below and suddenly caught a wiff of smoke. I lifted the engine hatch to billows of harsh smoke pouring out. I proped up the hatch which is a large solid teak floor and very heavy, then reached down into the smoke and fumes and found the battery disconnect switches and turned them off. I then opened up the boat and let all the smoke expel.
I walked away and left it all for about 10 to 15min and came back to find to my horror, the cable had melted through everything like a hot knife. Eventually coming to rest on the fuel lines which were Hydraulic hose, with internal steel braiding. The cable run going to the disconnects melted through the jacket and shorted to the braid which was earthed and still connected to the batteries and live. The Fuel lines had now become heaters and were boiling the Diesel till it was escaping in jets of fumes out through the chard hoses. I was expecting at any moment for it to all erupt into flames.
I then did what can only be described as the most stupid thing, but I was desperate. I climbed down into the engine compartment and into the fumes while holding my breath and got to the battery bank and with side cutters, went about cutting through the Battery cable. The battery bank was radiating heat they were so hot and I was worrying they would explode in my face. I got through the cable and as I stood, the hatch came crashing down and the latch bolt struck my head and caused a large gash. Blood instantly streamed down my face and over my glasses and I had to scramble out of the engine room blind.
That part of the drama was over. But I was feeling really sick and had blood all over me and my head sure hurt. I decided I needed to get home and cleaned up, so then drove the 35mins back to Home, where my wife took one look at me and gasped in Horror.Lucky to get away with that!
There have been lots of Lead Acid Battery fires, caused by internal and external shorts, poor/old/damaged cables and terminals, and other stuff. A battery is a fuel tank, no fuel tank is 100 % safe.
Today’s pillock
in MarineTalk
Posted
Yes, seems unfortunate to me how close some people think getting to a ship - which is the stand on vessel inside harbour limits - is OK. If, as in this case, you hear 5 short blasts - that is the WTF are you doing signal. If you hear it directed at you, you have f%^$ed up! Keep out of the shipping channels when you can, and cross as fast as you can, at 90deg if possible.
Within a mile of the bow is too close!