Island Time
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Posts posted by Island Time
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See https://www.yachtingnz.org.nz/news/have-your-say-proposed-update-nz-maritime-rules
Thoughts?
Seems to me Maritime NZ are finding it to hard to do what YNZ used to do (cheaper) and are now proposing just not to do it!
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Indeed. There is one here at GH that's using the 2025 draft already. I think that's wrong, as it is not even a ratified standard yet, and may not be...
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Interesting. My understanding is that the 2014 standard is cited and legal. As usual, the one hand does not know what the other is doing...
Also, on the NZ standards website"
AS/NZS 3004.2:2014
Current
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So currently there is no retrospectivity clause. Every boat would have to meet this standard.
Part of the draft says that there may be NO PVC insulation on cables. This means every boat I know of would need to be re-wired.
There is a requirement for fireproof (and certified) battery boxes for all Lithium chemistries. This means a system designed by an engineer, and approved by a fire engineer. IMO this is totally impractical.
There is a requirement for negative pressure in the battery compartment, and min airflows, yet it has to be sealed fireproof.
I have posted my comments on the draft linked above, and in some cases just liked existing comments.
It would be best if we can get as many people to respond as possible. It is certainly not in our interest to have this accepted as is.
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On 22/10/2025 at 5:31 AM, Zozza said:
Radar, AIS, etc.... good aids for sure, but my question is -> you gotta sleep, even as a single-hander, so you truly cannot always be keeping a watch, at least not a human one. I guess the gizmo's do a beepy thing loud enough to wake you up from dreaming about mermaids when another ship is near..... AIS does for sure, not sure about radar.
Modern Radar is a better watch keeper than most crew - can can have a LOT of different alarms - Zones, Proximity, Collision risk (via MARPA or Doppler), and can, via a relay, run any alarm you want. Low power consumption, never needs a piss, doesn't get tired, grumpy, or distracted...
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They seem to be getting worse. Best not to be anywhere near this!
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Done the response form...
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Lithium is the way to go - IF you are going to keep the boat. Its worth the extra initial cost, as the per cycle cost is way less than lead acid.
Advantages are
- Weight
- Speed of charging is WAY better - even with same charging sources.
- Capacity - you can use 90% of most LiFePo4 cells, but on 50% of Lead acid based.
- HUGELY better cycle life - like the ones I have are 11,000 cycles - lead acid is about 700
Disadvantages;
- Cost up front
- Ancillary changes needed - to protect alternator, and to comply with AS/NZ3004 requirements.
Just remember - There is no such thing as a compliant (to NZ Standards) drop in LiFePo4 battery. To have a safe install you need fusing, Alternator protection, and visual and Audio warnings before BMS disconnect.
Your other question about panels - answer is - It depends. If you add a panel to a solar array, if the controller is capable, you can just plug in another panel. However, if the new panel is in another position, and likely to be in different sun/shade, another controller should be used. IMO use Victron Controllers, they are just better, and provide more power than others.
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You mean waterproofing??
Tent magic, or tent magic ultra. Paint on. Works great...
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22 hours ago, CarpeDiem said:
Yep. Been through it with a friend. Not my vessel but I was along for the ride. Pretty straight forward actually...
It's pretty well documented on the MNZ website and works just like it.
Same for my customers who have done it. They say considerably easier than Cat1 was...
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IMO if you think you can use a legal additive and improve an antifouling designed by industrial chemists and biologists you're dreaming. Most likely you'll make it worse. The most effective ingredient was Tributyltin - now illegal in most jurisdictions. See https://ftloscience.com/tragic-tale-tributyltin/
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Done. You can see freezer temp circled in red. Now got to get the eutectic fluid to be solid frozen at about -21....
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Almost there ...
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Coming along slowly...
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3 hours ago, Bad Kitty said:
Anyone got experience with the Enertec permanent magnet 300A alternators?
Apparently only take the same power to spin as a std type 120A alt?
Umm, nope, that would be against the laws of Physics. You don't get anything for nothing!
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16 hours ago, Psyche said:
IT, what do models do you recommend for if replacing an alternator, does internal/external regulation matter that much?
I generally use Balmar. But Arco make some good hot rated ones as well, and paired with their Zeus regulator make a great solution.
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6 hours ago, CarpeDiem said:
That seems to be a pretty crappy alternator. And the Balmar one later in the video is equally disappointing...
My factory VP alternator has no problem outputting 95amps for 60-70 minutes. I have no external regulator, no conduit for cooled air... it's 100% stock.
Yes I have the means to shut the alternator down when the Li-ion is fully charged, but that's to prevent overcharging of the Li-ion not to protect the alternator. The alternator just runs at max output using its built-in factory regulator.
That would be a Mitsubishi alternator, with the yellow voltage sense wire. 115a. They are not a bad alternator, with internal temp sensing and battery voltage sense. Not as good as a Balmar though, but good for a factory alt.
I had the same one - but have since updated to a 250a Balmar. HUGE difference in charge rates - the Balmar is backed off, but maintains about 150a indefinitely.... With a cooling duct led to it...
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Usually they get caught in the front of the heat exchanger - just take off the front end and look if needed...
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On 19/07/2025 at 11:08 AM, waikiore said:
We know who to visit for a cold one now!
Any time if you see us!
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23 hours ago, ynot said:
Ya ball peen looks like it done a few miles and needs a new handle.
Nice job
Haha, true Dat! Had that hammer for nearly 50 years! Hinges and handles now on - but I buggered up one of the lids trying to get the right clearances, so progress was slower over the weekend than I would have liked. Waiting for the formica to arrive....
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Max rpm of a D1-30 is 3200rpm. It is important to ensure that the motor can reach this rev limit under power, when everything is in good order (clean hull, prop, normal vessel loading). So, the black is carbon. White smoke is steam, and means the exhaust is too hot. Does not mean the motor is overheating (yet). So, is the hull and prop clean? When was the heat exchanger last cleaned? Exhaust elbow cleaned? This is all basic periodic maintenance. Once those things are all good, if it wont pull the 3200 RPM, prop is too large/pitch to high, or the engine is not producing specified HP...
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Hinges, handles, bit more sanding, then formica.
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Forestay Chainplate
in TechTalk
Posted
Show us a Pic. Are the bolts loose/broken or is the timber the issue???