Island Time
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Posts posted by Island Time
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59 minutes ago, ex Elly said:
The 2 biggest wipeouts were
- Hard Labour, who made a quick recovery and carried on, shouting "Yee Ha", and soon led the fleet
- Psyche, who maybe had some damage, and promptly retired.
Strangest retirement was Rogue, who sailed 95% of the course, but then went home after northern leading.
Rogue split their main in 1/2...
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Sorry, forgot about this. Works fine for me on Edge. Must be a rights issue, you'll have to PM the editor. Sorry...
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4 minutes ago, Steve Pope said:
I suggest that you consider getting tube covers for the PVC tender if you wish it to last., PVC fails very quickly in NZ summers unlike Hypalon which can cope a lot better without a cover. I had one with PVC tubes and within 2 years it was stuffed, replaced with Hypalon and it is still OK and unaffected by UV after 12 years.
Cheap crap PVC doesn’t last. Some of the best PVC’s are pretty good. Hypalon (brand name) is no longer made, current high end inflatables use TPU. But I had a PVC one that did 13 years. Next one (budget) did 3. Now I have a TPU one…
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32 minutes ago, CarpeDiem said:
We covered this in another thread somewhere...
I am not sure what YNZ are trying to achieve - they aren't going to get the UN to change the treaty.
There is no need for that. All jurisdictions can make there own rules for their territories. And do. They can quite easily say that a watch is required for vessels underway (IE not anchored or aground).
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Yep, but he couldn't come for 3 weeks !
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25 minutes ago, Ex Machina said:
What tool did you use for scraping ? I have a moonscape of antifoul to sort out at some stage
Just a standard tungsten scraper with a long handle (well ok, a short one with a bit of broom handle in so about 350-400 mm). I started sanding with 40 grit and vacuum extraction, but too slow for 10+ layers. To begin with I was crap at scraping, then got a lesson. The key is NOT to round the blade corners as some advise, but to work along the boat using only 10-15mm of the blade edge to remove the paint. Hardest bit was getting started...
The blade is still flat to the hull, but progress only the 10-15mm each time and you can take off a multilayer strip each time quite easily.
Oh and I bought a full face mask that used 3m filters. That was awesome - easy breathing and no fog..
Once scraped, sanded with the 40 grit....
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20 minutes ago, Psyche said:
I feel it in my shoulders
Yep, sure did! Not 20 anymore 😞
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Yep, as BP said. Learn to adjust your compass, or alternatively pay someone to do it (that's what the commercial boats do, they need valid compass adjustment docs...)
info here;
https://msi.nga.mil/api/publications/download?key=16920950/SFH00000/HoMCA.pdf&type=view
That being said, most marine compasses will still work without further adjustment, they just will have the card at the angle of dip....
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Well, wasn't just this weekend, but the last couple. Took IT out of the water, and scraped and sanded 23 yrs of antifouling off, right to the glass. The glassed over the lead on the keel (The exposed lead always had issues with paint adhesion) as far down as I could, then 2 epoxy barrier coats, and antifouling.
The scaping and sanding is getting harder! 13 days out to in.
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3 hours ago, funlovincriminal said:
My initial thought was that they could have been Northern Hemisphere units.
They were purchased in NZ from a reputable retailer, possibly shipped from supplier in error.
I have brought them home with me and they are going to sort him out with replacement or credit.
Interestingly enough, they were only installed to meet Cat 1 and we never looked at them once on the trip. As it was 99.9% Autohelm all we used was the heading on the control unit 🙄
That is right for 99% of the cruises and passages out there. Until you have a complete electrical failure - it's happened to me once on a leaky boat delivery. Then the (adjusted!) compass becomes your best friend!
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Nope, but yes to different corrections. The earth's magnetic field is not identical everywhere.
Mostly compasses are northern hemisphere or southern hemisphere from the supplier.
Then a compass adjuster can correct for actual locality .
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OK, so this is a progression. I thought the sense wire blew it's fuse all the time?
Turns out it doesn't.
The install manual was not followed. The sense wire MUST be connected to the battery that the alternator can see, ALL the time, as when disconnected it will go to full field to try to raise the (sense wire) voltage to the specified voltage. Do not connect a sense wire anywhere else but to the battery - that's why its's fused.
This is the issue with remote diagnostics. Without an accurate circuit diagram it can lead you down the wrong path very easily.
Yes the .3v is most likely temp compensation, and the device is working as designed,
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4 hours ago, ex Elly said:
What does zone A, B and C mean?
Normally numbers, not letters. Compasses can be adjusted to suit each region. See https://www.maritimenz.govt.nz/content/commercial/safety/safety-management-systems/recognised-surveyors/recognised-compass-adjusters.asp
They come to your boat, and adjust the compass, and provide you with a deviation card. This is normal commercial/offshore boat operations...
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2 hours ago, K4309 said:
Hi IT,
What is the regulator supposed to do when the sense fuse blows? And is there any tests or a 'recreation' I can run to confirm there is a problem with the regulator?
The fuse is not supposed to blow. It's there to protect the wire and prevent a fire - it's doing that. Oh, and you have done the test - replaced the fuse. Remember that the sense wire is connected directly to the battery, and could carry ANY current the battery can supply if it is connected to neg directly. To be like this would be a failure of a component in the reg, which is not serviceable. Replace it.
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OK; You guys are expecting the (OLD) Balmar reg to be smarter than it is. It WILL NOT throttle the field back without voltage sense OR battery temp sense. For it to be blowing the voltage sense fuse repeatedly indicates a failure in the regulator. It's encased in resin and is not normally economically repairable. It's trying to full field the alt as the v (sense) is below target voltage. By the time the batts got too hot at >15v they would likely be damaged, possibly severely. Replace the reg. Sorry.
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59 minutes ago, Bad Kitty said:
Skipper screams seconds before rival punctures his boat in crash at the Ocean Race | Stuff.co.nz
I know this guy was on starboard, but does it look like he even tried to avoid that?
No
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16 minutes ago, K4309 said:
I just read the YNZ briefings. What a disappointment. Almost all of it is copied directly from MPI, other than the glowing endorsement of David A, who didn't know about it at all as of yesterday lunch time.
I am not at all surprised YNZ doesn't have the fortitude to question or go against the govt narrative. Not a mention of the aquarium trade introduction. Even MPI's material highlight the use of caulerpa in aquariums.
Write to YNZ at the email they give on page one. I have tonight, pointing out inconsistencies and contradictions in the Briefings Newsletter....
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2 hours ago, K4309 said:
Wettie.co.nz do good wetsuits at good prices
I was in the water on Saturday and was fine in a 3mm steamer and 3mm hooded vest (boots and gloves). Its not cold until you need a 5mm steamer and an extra 5mm hood under your hooded vest.
Nah, 7deg in east bay Queen Charlotte was the "cold" dive of the year, start of the scallop season. 7mm wetsuits in those days, now everyone wears semi or drysuits!
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1 hour ago, K4309 said:
Question: If your alternator is not running (blew up a diode or something) is there any harm in running your engine to get home?
Assuming you have enough power in the start batt to start the engine, and you either run dark ship, or the house batts have enough for other non-engine related systems, or solar (chart plotter, VHF etc), will it cause any other problems?
PS, where are up to page 2 and I still don't know what equipment to use to equilise a battery if I need to. Does everyone do what I've done for the last 10 yrs and put equilising in the too hard basket?
Most boats don't equalize, even if they should. Most chargers (and Alts), even smart multi stage ones don't allow you to set specific equalization voltages, they have pre programmed ones depending on battery type selected. Also remember that some systems want to equalize at over 15v, even closer to 16! That is too much for many 12v electrics - you must make certain that everything is off ! Some smart regs can allow this programming (Balmar, Wakespeed etc)
Lets look at why a battery needs equalization - its to TRY to remove sulphation on the plates, which starts soft and hardens. Once it's hard, the battery is basically toast. BUT sulphation slowly happens by itself, even on batts that are looked after. It's also made worse (a LOT worse) by leaving the battery in a discharged state. Keeping a lead acid battery at float voltage minimizes the rate it forms. AGM's and gels suffer less than wet cells from this, and Lead Carbon even less.
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Mate, I've seen pretty much every electronic device fail. Usually due to poor install, wrong device, poor knowledge of operation, or buying the cheapest available.
But yes, quality devices still occasionally fail.
If you are worried about the argo fet failing, and a load dump (which should not ever happen without some other fault) then add load dump protection device, like balmars one mentioned in that article. Also, alt diodes are not hugely expensive. Belts, braces and Armour ?
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Please read this guys.
https://marinehowto.com/drop-in-lifepo4-be-an-educated-consumer/
It will show you a good basic lifepo4 system using an argo fet splitter, and lots of other great info.
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Hmm, seams to me they have some issues in translation. Charge voltage and equalization seem to be reversed.
Also the max Charge current of 30a is a problem for most charging systems. Normally battery internal resistance restricts Charge rate.
I'd be cautious of this battery. There are local suppliers of lead carbon, 120a/r for about $600, with local support and neither if these requirements.
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The definition of an equalization charge is a period of charge at a higher voltage.
Insist on a product data sheet from the manufacturer. If the supplier can't do that, move on to another supplier.
Lead Carbon does not normally need equalization.
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Pauhia ferry crash
in MarineTalk
Posted
While that is correct, the order of priority is, Not under command, restricted in ability to maneuver, constrained by draft, fishing vessel, sailing vessel, power-driven vessel, seaplane.
However it's disappointing to notice how many fishing vessels have their day shapes welded to their masts! When NOT fishing, they are just a power vessel.