alibaba
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Posts posted by alibaba
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Two blade prop, off Yanmar saildrive. I've replaced it with a Kiwiprop. It's a Briski LH 15 x 11. Any reasonable offer will do, I'll never use it again. Photos give an idea of the condition. Only caveat, it's a heavy item, so the buyer will have to pick up. ph 021 153 0747
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I think DOC has water available at the campground at Sullivan's Bay- but you would have to carry it out in a dinghy in containers
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Don't need to use primer on the blades, they are composite. I just use the silicon topcoat and it sticks for at least two years. The important bit is the metal boss, which must be kept clear of fouling. As above, the clue to needing regreasing is difficulty in reverse, because if the blades stick instead of swinging right across it can stall the engine. I have like others, thought about getting diver to do it in the water, but .... those tiny little screws!
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Anchored overnight, no anchor light etc, dragged into another vessel, then yes, I guess you might be held responsible for any damage. I've certainly had problems in the past with inexperienced boaties anchoring closely and not setting their anchors correctly with enough scope etc.
However, being proactive, having both and anchor light on which illuminates your vessel, and having an anchor drag alarm set, I think commonsense applies. Given that we have 'phone coverage around most of NZ at the moment, and anchor alarm apps on phones are readily available, it shouldn't be a problem.
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Caulerpa, like most seaweeds, can reproduce by producing eggs and sperm cells which fertilise in the water, and then, obviously, spread for kilometers by tidal currents. Although fragmentation also can spread it, once it is established, the action of a few fragments from anchoring ain't going to make much difference.
Once again, like the over reaction to kauri dieback, decisions made without scientific evidence. We pay all the time for the foreign species brought in by international travelling ships. Does anyone really think that ships are carefully and fully compliant about emptying their ballast tanks where they should?
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If you can, make the ends of the packing where they meet at 45 degrees rather than 90, for an even better seal.
I had the same problem on my old Davidson 28, and replaced with a [relatively ] cheap Volvo seal. Doesn't need much clearance,
and it worked like a charm for years.
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Just from a chemistry point of view, just be careful if you decide to mix acid ie hydrochloric, with alkali - ie Sodium hydroxide - you will get a LOT of heat. That's why earlier in the thread someone said always add acid to water rather than the other way around. Wear goggles and expect the possibility of some spitting of hot liquid.
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Not a bad idea to put a bucket of fresh water down the loo before leaving the boat anyway. Flush it through enough so there is as little sea water in the pipes as possible. The reaction between sulphates inthe sea water [ if left in] and the bacteria in the sea water generate that horrible smell you get with the first flush when you return.
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whoops
in MarineTalk
ouch! bit harsh comments guys. Imagine if it was your boat.
Not all sinkings occur because someone has been an idiot.
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Contradict me if I am wrong, but I remember reading a long time ago, that the survival time of viruses etc in seawater was quite short. By the time it has been diluted by the tidal flow? I certainly would not swim in the area around there, but cancelling yacht races is surely an overreaction.
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I've fitted the recommended solar controller - it says it is supplying 14.7 v.
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I thought I understood my charging system, but now I'm not so sure....
Setup - start battery and house battery. Connected to a VSR. so- when the engine is started, the VSR 'sees' the voltage drop on the start battery, tops that up, and when it reaches full charge, now switches its attention to the house battery and charges that. So far, so good, I think. The voltage regulator has been set to 14.7V to charge the batteried.
However, due to lack of use during Covid, my ancient engine driven compressor fridge crapped out, and I have replaced it with an electric driven compressor plate. Because of the higher amp hours use, I have fitted a 60Watt solar panel, connected to the house battery. This seems to work well as well. When I come back from a weekend's use, the house battery is down a bit, but after a couple of days on the solar panel, it achieves full charge again.
But, it now occurs to me that I might have a problem. What is happening when the engine is running? The VSR brings the start battery up to full charge, but the solar panel is supplying about 0.5 amps to the house battery at a nominated 17.2Volts according to the specs.
Does this mean that the VSR will not recognise the house battery and therefore will not switch charging to the house battery, because it 'sees' 17.2v? If so, I guess I need to put a switch into the solar panel circuit to turn off the input from the panel when I'm running the engine?
So now I is confused. What do you think?
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Kiwi grip is really good - it's water based and easy to apply with the special roller. When I used it first I was a bit concerned about its
durability because of the water base, but it's as hard as nails, and wears well, so don't make the finish too coarse, or you'll take the skin off
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BP- you are obviously a gentleman!
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yes, DAn Brown, another 'man of action'. He's working for Bill now, and is based in BAyswater. Good guys for YAnmar.
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Mostly I have found that engine suppliers will give you the dimensions required of the engine bed/bearers etc, and where the engine mounts need to be. When I have done this in the past, I have found it useful to make up a wooden jig to these dimensions, so you can just sit it in place and see what you need to alter, if anything. It's really worthwhile making this up as it is light enough to move in and out of the engine bay as you adjust stuff.
The trickiest things I have found was not the installation of the engine on the bearers, but the alignment of the drive with the previous drive, lots of fiddling with the dial guage on the coupling etc.
I believe some suppliers, as beta and the Engine Room here in NZ will make the engine mounts fit your present bearer measurements if possible. Worth asking your supplier.
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phots above, niiice job!
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yet another rule honoured in the breach. Anyone know of someone who has been prosecuted for not displaying an anchor ball when anchored and fishing? Who will enforce this anyway. The harbour board crews have enough to do, and cannot even enforce the harbour speed limits [ which is far more dangerous than having a zzizz at anchor]. The maritime police are also busy with real crimes. Was there a recent incident which I missed which caused damage etc to provoke this promulgation?
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Just a note to those of us with Rocna anchors.When you take them in for re galvanising, make sure that you have
cleaned [ with difficulty] out the hollow rollbar. If you don't they will be very reluctant to do the job as there is a
danger of sudden gas expansion I was told.
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Thanks Ballystick
I too have researched and watched that video. The outside/right hand bolt is easily visible and accessible. BUT... if you look at the video, at no stage is
there a look at the left hand bolt. It appears to be hidden between the starter flange and the inward curve of the engine crankcase. Even with removal of the air cleaner and alternator, I cannot even see it, let alone get a socket on it.
I know I must be missing something here. The guy in the video also has effectively got full access to the side of the engine, whereas I, like most of us I suspect, have access to the front and the rear only.
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I'm starting to feel a bit think with this. After 25years, my starter is sounding that it needs a birthday, so I thought I would remove it and get it serviced - new brushes/contacts etc.
However, on inspection, from both front and rear, I can only see access to one bolt.
The motor is a Yanmar 3GMF.
I've got a manual, which actually in not very helpful.
Any advice please?
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sounds good, and certainly a selling point for Iphones. BUT...how many of us ever go outside cell coverage around NZ these days. I looked up the coverage of the major networks, and they certainly go a fair distance offshore- $1400 seems a lot to pay for rare occurrences. EPIRBs work everywhere for those odd trips.
Of course, if you are an offshore sailor... go for it.
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That's just brilliant! I'm going to keep that conversation on my phone for the next time someone says, " you can get the information you want at any time just by asking an AI"
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And how did you all find your good partners? Word of mouth? advertising - if so where?
FOR SALE - NEAR NEW SAILDRIVE PROP - OFF YANMAR 50
in Classifieds
Posted
and,,, I'm getting a bit slow in my old age, forgot to mention the pickup is in Bayswater, Auckland.