alibaba
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Posts posted by alibaba
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Yanmar 3GM with Kiwiprop. Had two blade Briski with HUGE propwalk on Yanmar saildrive. NO propwalk with kiwiprop, not loss of power compared to two blader, no drag when sailing. I'm very pleased with it, it is the second I have put on a boat, and even with a Yanmar 2GM on the last boat it worked well.
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Thanks, that's could be a possibility - it's on auto at the moment.
Also sort of nice to see that I'm not the only one!
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I have a Garmin Echomap 65 chartplotter.. Nice unit, works as well as others I have had. However, it gets really hot.
The screen is approaching 'too hot to touch' country. and if my computer was working at that temperature, I'd be concerned.
Garmin have been contacted and insist there is nothing wrong. Has anyone else noticed this with Garmin chartplotters, or any other
chartplotters for that matter?
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Whoever is responsible for the organisation is a fail in my book. Many boaties do not read NTM anyway. I belong to 2 yacht clubs and coastguard, and there has been no notification of how to use the transit lanes, speeds, directions etc, and whether they are operating at which times of day.
Devonport roads have also been shut down for all parking, even in Devonport village itself. So- you'd better be fit if you want to get to NOrth Head to watch- that's IF they are using that course anyway.
I guess if you put the harbourmaster's dept under the control of AT, that's what you get.
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Yeah- Northland are really into this stuff, aren't they. The bit that worries me is the idea of a "standard" to which your boat must be antifouled / " cleaned. Who decides what is acceptable? I reckon it is but a short way to only licensed operators will be allowed to antifoul boats, to make sure that they are done to a standard. So all those of us who haul out at our local yacht club yards and antifoul won't be licensed. So instead of about $250 for antifoul etc, it will be over $1500 per year.
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That sailor was reported to be safely tucked up in Tutukaka harbour the day before- so with the weather forecast pretty nasty, 15 gusting 35, - why would you go out anyway.?
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Definitely Raymarine for me. Never been let down I came across an old one - plus 30 years last week and it was still working.
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Ideally for the new owner to be aware of the problem, and the boatbuilder's report, then he/she knows what to do to fix it safely.
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That's fine, and I agree, buying any boat without some sort of survey is a no-no, and I have certainly worn some of my own mistakes.
However, in this case, the boat was badly damaged and then presented as repaired. Since the damage was a severe hull delamination from both the keelson and the stringers over a substantial area, I have my concerns about keel safety, particularly when the damage on the port side under the built-in furniture was not repaired at the time.
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Aaand- an update. Metro [ maybe] has turned up for sale on Trademe today. -And promptly sold! The weird thing though, is that all the photos ARE of my old boat - Metro, BUT the description doesn't match, eg the hull is quoted as glass over plywood, not double diag, and the engine hour meter quoted doesn't exist etc. Really straange!
Manukau, AucklandCloses Sun, 18 OctBuy Now$26,000No reserve$19,500
Hibiscus Coast, AucklandListed yesterdayAsking price$36,000
Kerikeri, NorthlandCloses Sun, 18 OctNo reserve$95,000
Auckland City, AucklandListed yesterdayAsking price$1.00 -
mmm- is all of that behaviour buoyancy, or is some of it due to surface tension?
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Yep- there's actually no problem - it all works well, but I was curious about the idea of the oil expanding with nowhere to go. Most crankcases etc seem to have breathers.
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Yes, good idea I think, I notice that if I unscrew the top fill plug after a run that there is a pressure build up. Not sure how much. Tube and a reservoir sounds like a good fix.Thanks
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Ah, you would think so. But, on this boat, the water intake for the engine has been set up to come from a seacock in the boat directly into the 3GM. That would mean that the cooling water for the saildrive is not circulating through the drive, just passive cooling in the water. I wonder if that is an unusual set up. I have heard that it's a common problem that the saildrive intake holes are fairly small, and often get clogged with barnacles etc, so this setup might have been a way to avoid that. However, I would have thought that 25 degrees is not actually huge, we are talking about 15 degrees to 40.
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Changed boat last year and for the first time now have one with a saildrive. I'm very pleased with the performance - no issues and no propwalk. However, and maybe I'm missing something obvious here, I have a concern about the oil. When the drive heats up with use, the oil obviously expands. There is no breather, so where does it go? Would it not be pushing out through the bottom seals? And, conversely, when it cools down, would that not promote suction of water back through the seals.? I looked up the coefficient of expansion of lubricating oils, and it suggested that for a 25 degree rise in temperature, the expansion would be about 2%.
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and then, with a metal prop - off it comes, to repair the dings and rebalance. Kiwiprop - buy a new blade for around 150 or less, fitting takes 15 minutes, and can be done underwater by a diver. Tap out a stud, slide new blade on.
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Kiwiprop every time for me, I've had two on different boats, and the latest boat [ Lotus 9.2] had a two blade folding when I bought it, and the prop walk was horrendous. Kiwiprop has solved 90% of it, now manoeuvring is easy. The other reason I like them on a saildrive particularly, is that the clutch on the Yanmar 20 is a "crash" clutch and so the load goes on almost instantly. The old two blade folder has a massive centre boss, must weigh Kgs, and the sudden change in momentum from stationery to moving must be a huge strain on the gears. The kiwiprop, plastic blades and light central hub would reduce the load greatly.
2300 rpm gives me a comfortable 6knots. plus - local manufacturer, instant spare part service, pick it up yourself, and John is always very helpful
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Folding prop h as now gone, only the new fixed two blade available
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Unfortunately I can't find any numbers on the folding prop. All I can tell you is that it is 16" in diameter, it was off a Yanmar 20 saildrive, engine is 3gm and the boat is a Lotus 9.2.
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Both props are off/to fit a Yanmar 20 saildrive. One is a 15 x 11 two blader., which appears to be hardly used. The other is a briski two blade folding prop.
They are splined to fit the above saildrive. I have replaced the folder with a Kiwiprop, because I have had one before and really like them, so both
props are now surplus to requirements. I suppose they could be rebushed to fit a tapered shaft, but I 'm not sure. I'm happy to let them go real cheap
to a good home- ie someone who will use them rather than making a profit. All offers considered, take them off my hands.
bob J 021 1530747
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Just to note, if you have a Coastguard membership, you get discount on VHF and other courses.
Also, if you become a Coastguard Radio Operator volunteer, you get it for free, of course.
cheers
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Not sure how legal it is, for the marina to deny you access to your boat if they are charging you.
Either- close the marina and give a reduction in fees, or - leave the marina open with appropriate conditions:
viz: you can only visit your boat on the marina if you have a] a mask b] gloves, and c] alcohol wipes for the gates and the keypads.
This particularly as there are plenty of liveaboards permanently on the marina.
Of course, this would only apply to those who live within walking distance of the marina anyway, with the current only essential driving restrictions.
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The advice for keying the acrylic is to give the edge - about 15mm in, a rub with a kitchen scourer- that was from Cambrian plastics in Henderson, who supplied the panels. They cut them nicely.
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Glasscorp sell the best adhesive for this - it's a Dow Corning product and I think it Dow Corning 925. I did my Lotus windows with it and no screws necessary. Glasscorp also sell glazing tape, which is magic stuff for making the job easier. You have about12mm overlap with the windows and the frames., put the glazing tape around the inside of the frame and simply press the acrylic onto the tape. Sticks really well. Then you can take your time filling the void with the adhesive - which of course if the messy bit! It's definitely worth masking both the frames and the outside of the acrylic.
primer before applying new antifoul?
in TechTalk
Posted
Best tie coat I have use is Primocon- was recommended by a boatbuilder - seems to stick to anything. Went over the remnants of Micron [ I think] and then I used #5. Never had any probs with it around Devonport or Bayswater, but it might be a bit different in flushes of fresher water at Clevedon.