Jump to content

MartinRF

Advanced Members
  • Content Count

    273
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by MartinRF

  1. On 21/12/2020 at 10:02 AM, CarpeDiem said:

    1990s Strockholm:

    https://youtu.be/QQvYogFP9mw

    1989-90 Gothenburg:

    http://hem.bredband.net/mschoon/af_Chapman_II/

    and MIT did something like the manta even earlier, I think.

    The Trampofoil guys got some free TV time at the time. They tried to go commercial but this simply too niche. In later years one of them has been involved in a foiling motorboat project with better economical backing. That project may take off (pun intended).

    https://candelaspeedboat.com/

    /Martin

  2. Over on this side of the planet there once (1980s) was a sailboat called "Ormgas". With its original name it was banned from entering any of the regattas arranged by the Royal Yacht Club. It is not too hard to figure out the original name by rearranging the letters in "Ormgas"...

    In the late 1990s I came across a catamaran mentioned in a multihull rag from Australia. Its name was "LBTPASB" or "light blue touch paper and stand back". Not being a native speaker of English this was mysterious to me. What is light-blue touch paper? Eventually someone explained :-)

    My own boat is named after radio program we listened to while building her and her sister.

    /Martin

  3. I have 35-ish years of experience of a fully battened mainsail (square top at that for the last 22 years) of about 30 sqm and I don't think the weight of the battens is what bothers you if you have problems hoisting your sail. I would take a look a at what I could do about friction. In my case it helps a lot to clean the luff grove of the mast. Batten pocket hardware and how the sailmaker positioned it relative to the bolt rope also plays a sigificant role.

    All this assumes bolt rope in luff groove. Dirt and friction are factors regardless.

    /Martin

  4. 8 hours ago, mcp said:

    Yes I can measure this?  Is this what you are asking?  You are being rather vague in my interpretation of your post sorry?

    I asked for the source of the efficiency figures appearing in your first post. That was all.

    /Martin

  5. 3 hours ago, mcp said:

    Anyone that has charges this type of chemistry through a shunt with a coulomb counter can verify these are about 99% or more efficient.

    So the data is your own?

    /Martin

  6. This made me remember an anecdote told to me by a fellow at usenet news rec.boats when that forum was still active. My source had worked either for the U.S. Navy or the Coast Guard in southern California back in the day when hippies were a thing. One day they came across this sail boat heading straight out into the Pacific Ocean and since they were already some distance from the coast they decided to check things out.

    The boat was crewed by a bunch of young, bearded men claiming they were heading for Hawaii. Sure enough they had food and water to last the trip but very little navigational aids and no radio. "How are going to find your way to Hawaii?"

    "Easy", said one of the crew and pointed at the con trail of a jet liner passing over head.

    /Martin

  7. Mousing line in place!

    4 x 3 m lengths of 16 mm plastic piping made it possible as it was quite easy to push the plastic tube all the way from the bottom of the spar to the top. Cutting the end of the leading tube to a sharp point helped avoiding catching on rivets and bolts. A 4 mm hole drilled near the tip was used to attach the mousing line and the sheave at the mast top was removed to make access easier there.

    The rest should be routine work (famous last words?).

    /Martin

  8. Good idea, only snag is that there is no way to get to the top of the mast to feed bicycle chain into mast. I have even saved some worn out bicycle chain in case I may need it for this purpose.

    Main idea right now (before going to bed) is to get some cheap plastic piping (16 mm outer diam, 3 m lengths) and push this in from the bottom end of the spar. I hope I can figure out a way to attach mousing line.

    /Martin

  9. Tried the shop vac idea tonight -- didn't work. At best I got about 2 m in. The tube is fairly clean inside but there are some obstructions including the jib halyard and the spi halyard. I could remove them but progress stopped before I got to where they could obstruct. Also, there are a number of leak points. I tried to deal them with tape but it was not good enough to make a difference.

    I could push rods or tubes in from the bottom of the spar but how do I get to the mousing line at the top?

    Fish tape or fiberglass snake might work but I can see how they may act up on the way. There are rivets and the odd bolt to catch on and once that has happened the tape will buckle and...

    Rods or tubes sounds better, at least right now. I need 12 m plus, as mentioned above, some way of making the mousing line hitch a ride.

    Thanks for the ideas so far. Keep them coming.

    /Martin

  10. Planned to rig the boat today but things did not according to plan. I use the boom, main sheet and main halyard to raise the mast. The tail of the halyard broke. No one hurt, nothing else broken as far I know. For the first time since I built this rig I am in the situation that here is neither halyard nor pilot line where the main halyard should be.

    When I built this rig I was working in a workshop with an air compressor so I simply blew pilot lines fitted out with simple drag devices down the mast tube.

    Since the mast is kind of horizontal gravitation will not be of much help and compressed air is not available.

    What are my best options? Pushing a wire down the mast tube? Maybe I could use a vacuum cleaner to do the same thing I did with compressed air?

    TIA

    /Martin

    PS here is what lowering the mast looks like.

     

  11. Here in the Northern hemisphere it is time for maintenance. One of the items on my list is to re-sleeve the main halyard. It has an 8 mm Dyneema core and the sleeve is busted where it sits in the halyard clutch.

     

    The current sleeve extends 1.5 m above the clutch for reasons that do not apply any longer. Hence the question: How much sleeve is needed above the clutch?

     

    /Martin

  12. I know you live in a sunnier place than I do but still I think it should have lasted longer. What type of wood? Oak and epoxy for instance is non-trivial to make work in my experience.

     

    Then we have tho option of KISS. If swelling/shrinking with variations in humidity is not an issue for this tiller I would consider good old one-pot varnish. Yes, it will need to be re-done on a regular basis but it is not hard work. A cover will extend the service interval considerably.

     

    /Martin

×
×
  • Create New...