nagy592 21 Posted September 3, 2018 Author Share Posted September 3, 2018 Right, I'm finally on the point when I can think about the rudder bearing, after a very busy week behind me on the boat yard. So the question is, is there any backside of a longer rudder bearing? The existing one is 100 mm long and I was thinking to increase by 50% plus add a flange to the end let say 10mm for further support. Simple reason to spread the load, reduce wear and so on. I have plenty of space so that isn't an issue. Based on the Vesconite calculator not much difference in terms of sizing, apart from the press fit force. So any opinion on this? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
idlerboat 116 Posted September 4, 2018 Share Posted September 4, 2018 Nope...do be careful with the press fit as the calculations allow for the tightening of the inner dimensions. (I tend to use the expanding bearing glues, the dimension of which are also on the calculator ). If all is straight and true, then there should be no great extra resistance from the longer bearings. The longer bearings will definitely increase the life span. I have learnt by experience that short bearings have much less life span. I doubled the length of the bearings on my own prop shaft a couple of haul outs ago. As an aside, I have a Jefa Gaiter on my rudder stock rather than the more common lip seal or stuffing box. This has been brilliant. Super simple. 100% dry. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nagy592 21 Posted September 4, 2018 Author Share Posted September 4, 2018 Thanks, I have a one piece heavy wall stainless steel tube so I don't have to worry about alignment too much. I also tending to use dry ice to fit, in that case I don't even have to press the bearing according to the calculator. Have you tried this method yet? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
idlerboat 116 Posted September 4, 2018 Share Posted September 4, 2018 I have..you just have to be quick, and you only get one go. Dont expect it to just slide in nice....It may, but if it starts to stick then you want to be able to press it in very quickly. Its to expensive to stuff up and is also brittle. Dont forget to carefully measure your bearing housing. It must not taper or you are in trouble. It will either be to lose or it will bind when you try and install it. I also drill and tap a couple of threads to put in recessed alen key grub screws later. A small divot is drilled in the vesonite once installed and the grub screws gently screwed in and loc tighted.. Probably unnecessary but it removes any chance of the bearing ever spinning (say if some crap gets between the prop shaft and bearing. You can make a very simple "Just in case"press with a length of threaded rod a couple of nuts and some large washers or cut plates. You will need two people to use it . (or get crafty and weld an anti spin bar for the inside.) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frank 157 Posted September 4, 2018 Share Posted September 4, 2018 Thanks IT, to use gold would be cheaper... However it is on it's way now. I tried something cheaper called NyOil and regretted it big time, it swelled with submersion and almost completely froze the rudder. Replaced with Vesconite. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mattm 98 Posted September 7, 2018 Share Posted September 7, 2018 I just priced up some of the white Vesconite from the Hamilton place IT linked on the first page. The guy said he priced ‘the better’ stuff, greater self lubrication I think he said was the difference. They have one with about a 32mm I’d and 70mm Od, to be machined to size, $1/mm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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