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idlerboat

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idlerboat last won the day on November 8 2020

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About idlerboat

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  1. Trackers are very easy to build. In essence two micro PV cells with a little shade wall between. A circuit compares the voltage between them and moves the panel till the voltage is equal . The circuit also does a " go home" operation after a pre set amount of time after no voltage. This then drives a relay to a linear actuator A no power setup using heat expansion and a "hydraulic liquid" based on the shade no shade principal has been done many times. If your arrays are on the same axis then one master controller is enough to control them all.
  2. If you want a really good one for land based generation ...see if you can find an older ( pre Chinese manufacture ) Bergy brand unit. Made in the USA. These are of a size suitable for serious home power. You will need to get it up on a tower to make it worthwhile. A guyed tilt tower is the easiest to make and maintain . You can get 30 metres in height without to much trouble with a 50 plus kg turbine on top. As for only hours of storage ? None that l know of or built !! 5 to 10 days usually...
  3. Climate change. Look at the energy efficiency of phones in comparison to small stand alone GPS units, chalk and cheese. I need to be contactable 24/7/366 and as we rely purely on renewables, with the irregularities they come with, every amp counts. Wow... maybe you need to go into a methane powered generator.........
  4. Why wouldn't you just use your phone ? !! If it is a newer version it will be running up to 4 different countries satellite navigation systems. ( GPS is the American one ) For land based stuff the not so humble phone is way more powerful than any stand alone GPS. ...and all the maps ( they're not charts) are free , (And no.. you don't need to be in range of a tower)
  5. 🙂 some shafts inboard are tapered some are threaded ( " inside") the flange and lots are just straight. Any of the above may have some kind of grub screw as a safety as well. These can obvious or flush and hidden under paint, rust or grease The Flexi type couplings have captured nuts. Often they have been loc tite which is an absolute no no. They can then be impossible to remove because they strip their captured surface . If so you then cut them off and get a new coupling. ( Use a torque wrench only to do them up) . Don't load up the output shaft of your gearbox when dealing wit
  6. Do you need flat ? lots or little ? ( shipping containers are cor 10) I dont have a price but know that it has come down in price because people are laser cutting it and making all sorts of outdoor stuff with the "rusty look".
  7. For two years, regardless of the brand ( but Altex no5 is good) At least two coats on all surfaces with one / two more on all leading and trailing areas. Fair out "missing, old antifoul" either wet and dry to a gentle fair or Prime and fill with an easily sanded fairing compound. (Dont use an epoxy filler in this case). Build thickness is just that... coarse rollers will put a lot on...but there is not a lot of point if there is large "valleys and peaks". Better to put three light coats on with an even build. Use an extension handle on your roller and get into a rhythm. Thi
  8. Sorry, I should have been a bit more complete in my description. Completely home made except for the sewing. The pieces are two mirror image sides, and top cover flaps.The material is a "sunbrella" type cloth. The edges are folded and seamed and then backed up with seat belt webbing. Along the bottom is a series of eyelets. These eyelets allow short lengths of cord to attach the sides to sail slugs in the boom top groove. This works with both a slugged or loose footed main, but obviously not with a bolt roped main. (This last usually requires some kind of extra hardware to be riveted onto the
  9. Yep...stackpac and Lazy jacks. (regardless of your batten choice) Makes life so much easier. Full cars will allow you to drop the main even with the wind on...but they are very expensive.. A two piece stackpac with solid fiberglass rods that connect to your lazy jacks is great for cruising. You can let the stackpac sides drop below the boom and pull the lazy jacks forward to the mast and tie them there. I cut the pieces out for mine and supplied them and a roll of 50 mm seatbelt webbing to the local horse blanket and tarp maker to stitch it up. Fantastic and cheap end product.
  10. (now) IG.. "Coal is everywhere." quote... so ? Venereal disease is too..... dont mean its a good idea. So for the millionth time... coal is a finite resource... (that means it will run out) ...and its not a good idea to burn it...(see another post somewhere) .....and there are some newer clever ways to produce hydrogen... .. ......and for the billionth time.... yes making solar panels requires a percentage environmental cost....( just like you and me) BUT its total "cost" over its life time is far less than burning coal in a power station .. ...and
  11. The canvass and rubber "flat" fire hose makes excellent super anti chafe tubes.
  12. The TV thing first, if the signal is reasonable in the area you are in... Believe it or not but a set of $5 rabbits ears, attached to the shrouds with a plastic clamp works way better than all the omni directional units I have ever tried !! ...and no, they are not at the top of the mast...just as high as I can reach from the deck. I still use them (they do rust out ) and in my current marina I get 64 channels. When I travel , after docking I get them out and just point them in the same direction as the local roof top antennae are pointing. Press search on the TV and... usually bingo. I
  13. Yep...hydrogen is what will happen. And l agree with wheels that on a small scale it will probably be with a fuel cell. This is not far away now. It is being looked at on a very large scale also...and sadly.." the clever bastards " are pushing it here but not being blatantly up front and saying they want to use coal to make it.. Which is pointless expensive and a missed opportunity.
  14. Epever has free software for a lot of their chargers. Its a bit ugly but works fine. (just sort out your port designations) The lead is a usb to RS485 lead. Their part number is CC USB RS485 150U. The software has a user programmable section where you can set pretty much whatever you want. (but there is a set of rules as to the voltage sets) As mentioned before, look at your batteries spec sheets for the correct voltages. You can also get a unit from snektek for epever (and other chargers) It will be something like this... Constant voltage charge. Cycle use 2.4 - 2.45 volts, Stand by
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