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paxfish

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paxfish last won the day on September 11 2015

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About paxfish

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  1. Ain't that the truth! I inspected over the winter and found no issues. In April we stepped the mast and found a small hole afterward which I patched. Over the next month, I patched two more new holes, praying I could nurse it through the season. But UV is insidious. It attacks everyday....
  2. Terrapin's forward tramp failed about 10 days ago. Nearly catastrophic since I went through to my waist! While underway, in good wind. ON AUTOPILOT! Tragedy narrowly averted! I built a new one out of vinyl coated poly mesh w shelterite edges. Borders are 1/2" schedule 40 PVC conduit (UV rated). I'm no seamstress, so the stitching lines suggest perhaps I was drinking heavily while cussing at my POS sewing machine. Tie lines are 3mm Dyneema. except along the hull where the fabric bolt rope is bolted to the hulls. The result seems to be up to the task. All thread is PTFE. A big job complicated by the fact that the boat remained in the water. My canoe got a work out!
  3. Facnor 1500+fx Seems great though I have only furled it maybe 10 times thus far!
  4. Good points! Also I don't have running backs, and really do not want to invert my mast or something crazy like that....
  5. Thanks Gents! That is very helpful. Looks like I got pretty close. I can definitely grab more wind and carry it down with good boat speed. What does your luff look like? I'm debating whether I need to rig a 4:1 tack to increase luff tension, but I'm not sure what an optimal luff would be for a sail like this. The luff line is 6mm Dyneema and thus should be able to take a load. However, if I head up a bit high, and luff the luff, it responds with a loud CRACK! when I fall off. I would like to minimize this because of the shock on the very light fabric. It is two layers of .75 Mylar with a grid of Twaron fibers in between. As info, the prod is 2 meters long.
  6. Hmm - Did I have it cut too small you think? Or are you thinking a fuller cut would have made more sense?
  7. Guys - Take a quick look at this and tell me what you think of this screecher. It is a very light mylar laminate. I sort of guessed at dimensions, fabric etc. Comments on rigging, luff etc are appreciated.... https://youtu.be/Kwxgns1rIk0
  8. Hi Rush - I deleted the UV strip. I was thinking for convenience (put it up Friday, drop it on Sunday evening....) I AM considering the elastomeric acrylic enamel paint trick as well, and Intend to test it on some similar fabric. example: Doyle also has a version: Do you guys have experience with these products?
  9. Gentlemen - Please give me your "back of the napkin" opinions on my prospective purchase. I just spoke with the local sailmaker about our screecher. He is proposing a Dimension Polyant fabric called CZ-30 GP. My screecher halyard is fractional and my sprit is 2 meters. fabric info here: http://www.dimension-polyant.com/en/Spinnaker_2_6_1.php Sail area is 30 square meters. Is that roughly the size you guys are running for your roller furling screechers? Damned thing is pricey though $3100 US with the torsion rope etc.. I asked for a cut that would accommodate 50 to 100 degrees apparent. Does that make sense? Benefitting from your experience, paxfish Image here: http://i.imgur.com/jID4NnI.jpg and here: http://i.imgur.com/WsGtE1D.jpg
  10. I believe the shackle crown is 18mm diameter. I hit it hard with polishing rouge and a wheel to get it to a mirror finish before I put it up. The line is Amsteel SK-75
  11. Just an update. After much consultation in various quarters, and considering the good advice here, I replaced my shrouds with 8mm SK-75, and no thimble. The shroud diameter is overkill for sure, negating any weakness in the very secure Brummels I tied. I have deadmen on the side shrouds now, which are pretty sweet. After several day sails in winds to 17knots, the construction stretch is mostly gone now, and I'm liking the security of having new shrouds! As Always, thanks to all for your input....
  12. I'm curious. What would be the "proper" way to re-attach those bows? You would have limited interior access I presume....
  13. Gotcha - I'm guessing there is no way in hell I'm gonna get new thimbles installed without re-tying. I can get the old ones out without damage, I'm sure....
  14. Very good! Thank you gentlemen! Ed - I do have a ring that can be used there rather than the carbo. "Straight up the koozer!" Thanks for that bit of advice also - I did not realize that the Brummel might reduce line strength. Tell ya what though - That thing ain't moving! Without the Brummel, what length of tapered tail would I need? The same? P>S. A quick Google yields this article: http://www.chicagoyachtrigging.com/18-dyneema-break-test-final-bury-splice-vs-brummel-splice/?v=7516fd43adaa I think the author believes that while a bury splice has a higher breaking strength, both are rated higher than line strength.,.,,.
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